504 Track Rod Bushes
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default 504 Track Rod Bushes

    These are getting a little tired at the front end. I have seen somewhere a thread about using washers to tighten them up. Can anyone tell me if the washers just go under the big nut at the front? How many/how thick? The car only does about 1500 km a year so the repair could last a while! Alternatively, any idea of cost of new ones for the front and the back of the track rod please. And finally can each of them be replaced [especially the one on the lower control arm] without removing the lower control arm? Last question.... I just noticed that one of the drop links from the front sway bar has come apart. Does anyone have a serviceable one please? Neil

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  2. #2
    1000+ Posts Peter C's Avatar
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    From your description, it sounds as though you are referring to the triangle arm - (the caster bar) rather than the "track bar". I've never heard of packing out bushes with washers and, in view of the relative cheapness of the parts, I don't know why anyone would.

    Although the smaller bushes at the rear of the triangle arm can replaced in situ, the large bush at the front cannot.

    I've replaced the inner lower control arm bushes both ways - with them still on the car as well as with the whole strut out. Personally, I find it less stressful to replace the bushes with the whole strut out. I also have a press which makes bush replacement easier.

    Parts are fairly cheap and (hopefully) should still be available at EAI and Caravelle.

  3. #3
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    There are many times I've packed out ball joints using washers, just below the outer plate with the grease nipple. Providing the nylon cups which hold the ball joint shaft have some grip when pressed together, and the shaft ball is undamaged, then packing works ok.

    This principle may work in other areas too, I guess. Rebuildable ball joint etc are just about a thing of the past, and are probably only used by non-professionals nowadays.
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  4. #4
    1000+ Posts Beano's Avatar
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    ^ Pugnut is talking about tie rod ball joints, not the front bushes on the triangle arm.

    I've heard of people using washers but have never done it myself. Pressing in the new bushes ( often called "top hat" bushes, because of their shape) can be a tad difficult as you will need a vise with wide reach. You use a socket between the vise and the inner metal sleeve. It seems counter-intuitive (as you think you will ruin it), but the theory is that by stretching the sleeve and surrounding rubber as it is being pushed in, the outer diameter is reduced.
    You will think that the sleeve will separate from the rubber while you are doing this, but it will not. You use saliva or brake fluid as a lubricant between the metal housing and the outer part of the top hat bush. Not grease....the rubber needs to grip once it's put in.
    Trust me on this....Peugeotcare in Brisbane (now closed down, but not because of this ) did this for many years.

    The drop links for 505s are expensive....not sure about 504s. Try Pugwreck for a secondhand one. They will mail stuff. Not sure if the right and left are interchangeable. Does it have a stop ? A square piece welded on one side ?

    It's pretty easy to remove the whole strut and control arm to do the inner control arm bushing, but the outers (two cone-shaped ones on each side) can be done without that. Though you may have to take out the bolt from the inner one and loosen the arm from it's housing (easy enough).

    Neil s....didn't you use to live on the Gold Coast ? Or was that someone else ?
    Last edited by Beano; 29th June 2014 at 02:52 PM.

  5. #5
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    No, always in Sydney. No square piece that I can see. Neil.

  6. #6
    1000+ Posts Peter C's Avatar
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    The drop links on a 504 are the same on both sides. 505 ones have an eyelets offset to one another at each end and are, therefore, side specific.

    Not sure of prices but, yes, I'd first try and get a second hand one.

  7. #7
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    I fitted new drop links to my 504 last year. I got them from Max Teal Lion. Actually I used 604 links, but he has both

    These drop links last a lot longer than ones do on 306 or 406!
    1998 Peugeot 406 D8SV Manual
    1999 Peugeot 406 D8ST Auto
    2002 Peugeot 406 D9SV Manual
    1994 Peuegot 306 N3 Cabriolet Manual
    1994 Peugeot 306 XR N3 Hatch
    1995 Peugeot 505 GTI executive
    1976 Peugeot 504 Sedan - Now sold

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  8. #8
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Yeah, 356000 km and 36 years is not a bad life span.

  9. #9
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    Temporary fix. The bottom of the link to the LCA had come out. The rubber actually looked fine so I pressed it back on and all appeared to be quite tight and was still in place after a searching test drive. If it does come out again a large washer on the back end of it will soon fix it! If that fails a new one will have to be sought. It also copped some new rubbers for the top end sourced from the parts bin. good as new. Big washers still to be placed at the front of the castor bars to tighten them up.

  10. #10
    pur-john, not pew-john! peujohn's Avatar
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    Here is a link to the Ebay store mentioned by Pugnut1:

    TealMaxLion items - Get great deals on Pièces, Peugeot items on eBay Stores!

    Already saved as one of my favourite sellers.
    John W

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  11. #11
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    OMG...... a Pandora's box there!

  12. #12
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    Neil,
    If you get round to replacing the bushes, Lanolin spray works really well when pressing in new bushes with the vyce...great lubricant and friendly to the neoprene rubber too.
    (Also found it good for installing front and rear windscreens.)

    John

  13. #13
    1000+ Posts Peter C's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bahay View Post
    Neil,
    If you get round to replacing the bushes, Lanolin spray works really well when pressing in new bushes with the vyce...great lubricant and friendly to the neoprene rubber too.
    (Also found it good for installing front and rear windscreens.)

    John
    In the 504 Workshop Manual they recommend methylated spirits.

  14. #14
    1000+ Posts Beano's Avatar
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    Correct....for the "top hat" bushes. Either that, or saliva, or brake fluid.

    You want it to be dry later, and lanolin will stay in there too long. Maybe some people use a little of it when installing the inner control arm bushes, which are metal-to-metal ? They can be a bit of a bugger to press in, if you only have a vise. I think I slightly ruined the thread in a mate's vise doing that !

    The only flexibushes on which a grease-type lubricant can be used are the sway bar bushes. They're usually polyurethane, and the sway bar moves inside them.

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