peugeot 505 automatic- 2 questions
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Thread: peugeot 505 automatic- 2 questions

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default peugeot 505 automatic- 2 questions

    hi
    1. in a moderate slope the car, especially in reverse, won't drive by itself without pressing the gas- is that normal? in a flat surface it does ok.
    2. adjusting the kick-down cable- is it done with engine on or off?

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    thx

  2. #2
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    The reverse in particular can be a bit sluggish, often had to gun it going reverse up a slope.
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    406 HDi

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    Fellow Frogger! Meggsy's Avatar
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    Adjust kickdown cable engine off - it works off throttle position
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    Meggsy
    Current - 4007HDi
    Had - 407 HDI 406 SV 404, 504, 505 GR and STI. 405 GR ( carbie version) STI, MI16
    And an Austin 1800
    Learnt to drive in 203 Convertible and a 403 SW

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    If, whilst with a WARMED UP engine idling, your car creeps uphill in reverse or uphill in drive, then your idle speed is probably too high. Should be 900 RPM max. [4 speed box].

    Pavel

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    I checked the location of the crimped stop on the cable. Where is the point when kickdown starts? Pulling the cable, after a certain distance it starts to resist, after that it stops, and beyond that you feel something opens in the tranny.
    In an online guide they say the point is where extra resistance is felt (start of kickdown).

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    Cables can stretch; linkages can wear; gearbox oil pressure can lower a fraction -- even the quality of the oil in the g'box can have a bearing on the change points.
    So use the 'seat of the pants' method and adjust the change points to suit your driving preferences. On my GTi I've set the 4th.gear lock-up to occur at 79KPH during normal acceleration; my reasoning being that as we have many 80KPH speed limits I can be in top gear whilst still observing the posted limit and at the same time use less fuel. Pedal to the metal kickdown, though, will still allow me to accelerate to 90 in 3rd.gear.

    Pavel.
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  7. #7
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    the manual states a gap of no more than 0.5 mm between the crimped stop and the cable end.
    i guess this is for a new cable?
    if i tension it a tiny bit more can it do harm?

  8. #8
    1000+ Posts Beano's Avatar
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    Possibly....though I'm not sure.

    If you tension an accelerator cable too much, the carby butterfly valve is open completely BEFORE your foot touches the floor. This means that the cable will always have too much tension put on it at the end of it's travel. I once broke a cable because of this. But then, I used to be a lead-foot, and my car had a Weber.

    A tiny bit is probably ok.

  9. #9
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    it's the kick-dowm cable i was talking about

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    1000+ Posts Beano's Avatar
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    Yes, I know. I was using that as an example. I'm talking about putting too much strain on a cable because you have adjusted too far the thing it joins on to. The cable will stretch slightly, then fray, and finally part....usually at the end.

    To view things properly, sometimes it is useful to take the example to the extreme : let's pretend that you have adjusted the kick-down cable a REALLY long way. Your accelerator pedal will only be half-way down, and your foot will be pressing down further. But it will not be able to because the kick-down cable will be fully pulled up.
    Result : too much strain on cable and eventually a frayed and broken cable.
    What I am warning you about is a minor version of this. It has happened to me with a 504 accelerator cable, and the same scenario MAY happen with the kick-down cable.
    But it should be ok because you will only rarely put the pedal to the floor. ( ? )
    Last edited by Beano; 1st August 2014 at 05:34 PM.

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