what engine oil for 505
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Thread: what engine oil for 505

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default what engine oil for 505

    hi guys
    what oil do you use for 505?
    the manual states 10w-40 API SF, which is now almost obsolete of course.
    for the last 14 months i used castrol gtx , ac delco and now motorcraft (changed every 6 months), all 10w-40 but higher specs, SL and above, but now i heard some one saying that they don't have the additives needed for the older engines.
    so are they suitable?
    it may be possible to find here SF oils but 20w-50.
    thx

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    1000+ Posts Wildebeest's Avatar
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    2pac,
    I would stick with the brands and grades you specify. 10 - 40 . No mention of Valvoline? I've been using their regular 10-40 and 20-50 for years now. No sludge build up under the rocket cover, the breather gauze remains clean.
    I don't know what special herbs and spices they contain. Don't worry about synthetics, too rich a diet for the oldies.
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    I've been using semi-synthetic Shell Helix HX7 10w40 for over 4 years in my 505 -- changed twice a year. With temps. here in Western Australia on a par with yours, I would recommend it.

    Pavel
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    since the third sump gasket in a row is leaking oil, i bought now a mineral 15w40 API SF, made in Israel, hope no leaks anymore, and better safe than sorry to use the old grade.

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    Is the crank case breathing OK, and are the piston rings good? Sometimes oil leaks are a symptom, not the principal item to address.
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    the breathing is ok, the rings i didn't check but no smoke, smell or burning oil.
    why should worn rings cause leak from the sump?

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    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    Excess pressure buildup in the sump; it doesn't necessarily show as burning oil.

    That said, use of the right sealers with a gasket can help muchly, particularly when you're obsessive about preparing the surfaces first.

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    1000+ Posts Beano's Avatar
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    Yeah...seems a bit odd, man. I've never had a sump gasket leak.
    Are you using an alloy one or a steel one made of panel metal ? If it's thin steel, you may have warped it slightly when you got it off the first time.

    I usually take off the sump and let the engine oil drain overnight to ensure no oil is going to dribble out when I'm preparing the surfaces for a gasket. And I always use a good gasket-grade silicone to ensure sealing.

    And I've used various brands of 20-50 for the last 30 years on 504s and 505s.

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    I got the black one-piece sump.

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    There is a simple check for excessive crankcase pressure that could be causing your oil leaks from your sump gasket, which if found, could also be from various oil seals as well. Get the engine properly heated up to its running temperature. Then, whilst its idling over, remove the oil filler cap. If oily fumes pump out, then you have either serious piston ring blow-by and/or a blocked crankcase breather system.
    Even so, a properly installed sump gasket should not leak as there are other places that are more prone, such as the rocker cover. As you are now obviously an expert at removing the sump I would suggest you give it another go -- but pay attention to some of the advice mentioned above. Remove the sump and place it on a flat surface. Then check it and true up by using a feeler guage if necessary. Then ensure that that the metal mating surfaces are completely free of oil otherwise capillary action will soon cause oil leaks again.
    Just about all of the major oil manufacturers will have an oil that is suitable for the 505. But instead of relying on the API designations, use those that conform to the European ACEA specifications instead, which are much more demanding than the API ones. Also, forget about extended drain periods of a year or more. Change your oil and filter twice a year. It may cost more, but its a lot cheaper than a new engine -- even spread over 5 or more years.

    Pavel

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    i made the test you suggest, and fumes do come out of the feeler cap, but a mechanic who saw that said it's completely natural.
    i don't think it shows anything about the piston rings, because the filler pipe protrudes straight from the sump- it's xm7 engine, unlike most cars where the filler cap is in the rocker cover, so the fumes come from the sump and not through the piston rings.
    as for the breather system- what is it more than the filler hose itself?

    since i bought the car in 2/13 i did change the oil and filter every 6 months, and even more than that because of 3 sump gasket replacements.

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    Are you changing the gasket if its metal sump and the bolt holes are pulled above the flat line of the lip they need to be hammered down a tad with a small ball pein hammer otherwise the sump bolts will tighten but retain a gap between holes. And leak. Tired now fish
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    1000+ Posts Beano's Avatar
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    ^ What fish says is true. The mating surface of the steel sump needs to be flat. But often they are not because of previous over-tightening. After you have removed it, hit it down with a light hammer....not a heavy hammer.

    Quote Originally Posted by Pavel Moore View Post
    As you are now obviously an expert at removing the sump I would suggest you give it another go -- but pay attention to some of the advice mentioned above. Remove the sump and place it on a flat surface. Then check it and true up by using a feeler guage if necessary. Then ensure that that the metal mating surfaces are completely free of oil otherwise capillary action will soon cause oil leaks again.
    Which is why I suggested that you let it drain overnight after taking off the sump.
    Also use a good, gasket-grade silicone.

    Although it is most likely that, it could also be that the metal gauze inside the filler cap is clogged up.
    505s run with negative crankcase pressure. Those pipes coming off your oil filler that go to the air intake....they suck air from the crankcase.
    But the gauze gets clogged up with old carbon, stopping air flow.. This happens often on older 505s, but actually it should not cause the sump to leak. More likely it would cause oil to come out of the dip stick tube, or elsewhere.
    Last edited by Beano; 30th October 2014 at 08:07 AM.

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    Howdy 2pac; worn rings can pressurise the whole engine, including the sump, as the head/rocker/sump atmosphere is joined. The expanding combustion gases bypass the rings, out the bottom of the bore (called 'blow by') and pressurise the sump.

    I'm sure Pavel meant that the fumes come out under pressure; yep, some slight fuming can happen on older engines which is probably what your mechanic meant. If you stick your hand over the filler hole, for about 30 secs, and then when releasing hand pressure there's a 'pffff' you'll know it could be worn rings.

    I second use of a good silicone. We managed to have a totally leak free E-type Jag from using really good silicone and, importantly, giving it plenty of time to cure before stressing it through running the engine. Anyone who knows E-Types will know they usually leak...


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    I second use of a good silicone. We managed to have a totally leak free E-type Jag from using really good silicone and, importantly, giving it plenty of time to cure before stressing it through running the engine. Anyone who knows E-Types will know they usually leak...[/QUOTE]

    The old truism, "Invest in a pebble-crete driveway so the oil stains aren't so obvious.....(insert car brand of choice for ridicule)."
    Local non-hero, from the driveway collective, is SWMBO's 2013 Fiesta after the dealer nicked the gearbox input shaft seal during a warranty repair! Three times the transaxle has be removed and installed but at least any debris from the running in should have been flushed out!
    Brendan.

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    how about using STOU oils (super tractor oil universal)? they are API SF.

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