306 S16 - Not Starting
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! FedGrapes's Avatar
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    Default 306 S16 - Not Starting

    Hi all!

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    I've just finished installing a new starter motor in the (1994) S16, to replace the old and weary one.

    The car will not start.The starter is turning strongly, and is engaging the fly wheel.

    There is an after market immobiliser, but that's never actually immobilised the car. I've used that as normal, and no change.

    Dash lights up in the correct way, and other functions are fine.

    Access was gained by removing the black intake manifold, the air filter and intake tubes, and the battery tray/ecu.


    So, my issue is fuel or spark. How do I proceed?

    Cheers guys!

  2. #2
    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    Ether spray first.

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger! FedGrapes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by addo View Post
    Ether spray first.
    Heading into the garage with a can now.

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger! FedGrapes's Avatar
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    No joy with the ether. Hasn't gurgled into life on any of the cranks.

  5. #5
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    I didn't expect it to. Have you reconnected the coil packs and checked all fuses twice (underbonnet and cabin)?

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger! FedGrapes's Avatar
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    I've check the coils and injector plugs, I'll do the fuse checking now.

    this is the first time I've unplugged the ECU, but not the battery. I'm assuming there is no difference, but would that have had some effect?
    Last edited by FedGrapes; 25th May 2014 at 06:31 PM.

  7. #7
    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    No difference. Is it a Bosch ECU?

    Most supply permanent positive to the coils, with the ground being modulated by the ECU.

  8. #8
    Fellow Frogger! FedGrapes's Avatar
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    Fuses are all A-okay.

    Relays appear fine, and I reseated them, but I've no idea what they do.

    Does the lift pump operate from within the fuel tank, and is it audible with the ignition set to on?

  9. #9
    Fellow Frogger! FedGrapes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by addo View Post
    No difference. Is it a Bosch ECU?

    Most supply permanent positive to the coils, with the ground being modulated by the ECU.
    Bosch ECU, I've got a spare here. Never had a problem with this one, though!

    I'll check the voltages to earth on the coils then. Where should I measure that; at the plug?

  10. #10
    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    The coil connectors, if it's a 4-way connector then pin 4 should have 12V to it with the key on.

    You can normally hear the fuel pump for a second or so after keying on. If no pump action and no spark, your tachymetric relay isn't switching.

  11. #11
    Fellow Frogger! FedGrapes's Avatar
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    Cheers addo, I'll continue this evening. I have to head out for now.

    Where/what is the tachymetric relay? How do I test it?

  12. #12
    1000+ Posts Pug_405_Mi16's Avatar
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    The ECU is plugged in properly? I've seen people not get those Bosch ECU connectors back on properly.

    Just thinking about what you disturbed when you had it apart.

    Cheers
    1988 Peugeot 505 GTI Wagon
    1990 Peugeot 505 GTD Turbo Wagon
    1994 Peugeot 405 Mi16

    1995 Peugeot 405 SRDT - Retired
    1973 Peugeot 504 GL
    1985 Peugeot 505 SRDT




  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by FedGrapes View Post
    Where/what is the tachymetric relay? How do I test it?
    It's a little black cube thing with the fuses under the steering column, basically a simple mechanical switch actuated by an electromagnet. When you key the ignition to ON you should hear a muffled electric motor-y sound coming from behind you, which is the fuel pump priming (it's under the right rear passenger seat). You should also hear it go off a few seconds after you remove the key from the ignition and your bum leaves the seat, or about 5mins after removing the key if you don't leave the seat.

    If you don't hear the pump you should listen for the click of the relay instead, which is easier to hear the 2nd time after you've removed the key. Just turn the ignition to ON, give it a few seconds then remove the key. Get out of the driver's seat and shortly afterwards you should hear a faint click followed by another one 2-3secs later. If you don't hear the pump OR the click it's probably the relay.
    2000 306 GTi6 'Josie'

  14. #14
    Fellow Frogger! FedGrapes's Avatar
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    Thanks for the quick help last night.

    I followed through your tests, and there was clearly something wrong with the voltages at the coils. I ran out of time, so the car was sent off to Corrado. He told me that only one of the two wires that goes on the main positive pole of the starter was attached. It appears one jumped off when I walked away to get a nut.

    I feel like a goof.

    Cheers for the tachometric relay info, that'll come in handy for me in the future, I'd imagine.

    I noticed the ECU was difficult to properly engage, as it has quite a specific entry angle!

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