Looking for some info on 81 505 engine and 5 speed
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  1. #1
    Tadpole PeugeoTron's Avatar
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    Icon5 Looking for some info on 81 505 engine and 5 speed

    Hello all, i've got an 81 1971cc 505 with a 5 speed in it. The rear badge says only 505, is it missing another badge or is that just what it is? On the plate in the engine bay it says Engine Family XNA 2. The gearbox is a bit of a dog going back into second, but if you take it easy it goes alright. I think i read something about 2 different 5 speeds for 505's and one being worse than the other, what would i have in mine? Also when the clutch is pushed in it comes back up quite leisurely are they hydraulic or something? is this a problem? Any info on my rig would be quite welcome, things to watch out for and just general knowledgeable comments would be excellent, thanks a lot guys.

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    oh, not to forget i have a green 82 SRD turbo which isnt running cause im an idiot (undiagnosed problem ) its in a few pieces but was running excellently before it stopped on me, check the cars for sale section for the info and pic.

  2. #2
    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    sounds like you have the BA10/5 to me
    they are a good box but not as light in the change as the 7/5
    the clutches are hydraulic but they shouldn't be slow returning
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  3. #3
    Guru davemcbean's Avatar
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    Yeah your box should be a BA10. If your speedo says PJ80 on the face of it, then that should confirm that it's a BA10 gearbox.

    BA7 5 speed equipped cars use a PJ82 or PJ820 speedo (although if you stick a 504 4 speed in you need a PJ80).

    As for the clutch. I've had that problem before, but that was with a stainless steel sleeve in the master cylinder, which may or may not have had some impact.

    Try flushing the clutch circuit with fresh fluid. If your slave cylinder bleed nipple is at the top, all you have to do (usually) is open it a little and let fluid run through until you see the new stuff come out (may take a little while). If the nipple is not at the top, you should be able to move it to the top with a little bit of work.

    If it is a steel line going into the slave cylinder, you are lucky. You can loosen the union where the steel line enters the slave cylinder, then rotate the slave cylinder using a shifter until the nipple is near the top (pointing slightly towards the left side of the car is best), then retighten the union.

    If it is a rubber line entering the slave cylinder, loosen the rubber line where it joins the steel line on the firewall/tranmission tunnel, then turn the slave cylinder with a shifter, then retighten the rubber to steel line joint.

    If for some reason you can't move the cylinder until the bleed nipple is near the top then reverse bleeding may be necessary (can be done sometimes using the brake system as a pressure bleeder).

    If all else fails you may have to pull the clutch master and slave cylinders apart and give them a good clean, then fit them with new rubbers.

    Dave
    Last edited by davemcbean; 18th January 2004 at 06:31 PM.
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  4. #4
    Tadpole PeugeoTron's Avatar
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    yep PJ80,

    i'll give it a royal flushing tomorrow, thanks for the info guys

  5. #5
    Guru davemcbean's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeugeoTron
    yep PJ80,

    i'll give it a royal flushing tomorrow, thanks for the info guys
    I've just added a few more details to my previous post which you may want to read.
    NZ Fleet
    1976 504 Ti
    1984 205 GT twin carb
    1991 205 SI 1.6GTI motor
    1994 106 Xsi
    1996 Mondeo V6
    Aus Fleet
    1955 203C
    1997 Civic Cxi (great allrounder- revy, flexible, nimble, comfortable , economical, simple and durable )

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