HELP - 405 rear crankshaft seal and trans removal
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  1. #1
    Tadpole
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    Default HELP - 405 rear crankshaft seal and trans removal

    hi , i own a 95 peugeot 405sri auto , 2L petrol , 8 valve . The car has a serious oil leak coming from the rear crank seal , its running down and along the sump edge which at first lead me to believe that the sump gasket was at fault but after replacing it the leak is still flowing like a river , also replaced the oil pressure sensor which was spraying oil all over the place . Would any body know of a step by step write up with pictures of how to remove the trans that they could share with me ? I have googled the hell out of it and found nothing . I am guessing the front wheels need to come off and the driveshfts and CVs must come out being that it is FWD . any help much appreciated and i will in turn take pictures as i go and share any info i gather from doing this at home .

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  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger!
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    If you have a hoist available it is fairly easy. You need to remove both drive shafts then support the engine from above so that you can let the gearbox support go and remove the box.

  3. #3
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    I copied this from the forum long ago, and it's been wasting disc space, so I hope it's of use:

    I have removed the gearbox on a S1 Mi16 to change the clutch, and I've removed the auto transmission from a S2 405 to change the engine rear oil seal. I've also taken motors out by themselves, and also engine and gearbox as a complete unit.

    If all you want to do it replace the rear seal, just remove the gearbox. It's actually not a bad job (much harder with the auto's, because the transmission weighs about 7,432 times more ).

    Remove battery and tray, airflow meter and filter, disconnect clutch cable, reversing light switch, gear linkages. There's a few other little cables and hoses clamped to the gearbox you'll need to move as well. Jack car up and put on engine stands, as high as you can get it to go. Take off both front wheels, undo intermediate driveshaft bearing carrier on back of engine (next to lower engine mount), undo kingpin bolts, then slide the entire wheel/driveshaft combination out of the gearbox on both sides. Disconnect speedo drive from gearbox.

    Undo the gearbox-engine mounting bolts. Put a jack underneath the sump (with a block of wood to protect the sump, of course). Undo the gearbox mounting bolt (under where the battery tray would have been) and lower engine/gearbox assembly down. It will tilt down for you. Then slide the gearbox off! Easy!

    Installation is reversal of the above procedure.

    About 8 hours work all up (gearbox out, change seal, gearbox back in).

    While you're in there, there are a couple of plastic plugs in the ends of some of the oil galleries in the motor. Check that they are all intact and not leaking. Also check of course the usual things that are impossible to get to otherwise (clutch, flywheel surface, spigot bearing and thrust bearing).

    Scott



    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    EXTRA NOTE
    Paul Vassallo says: (pers comm) remove wheels, shafts, etc as above, also anti-roll bar, but leave cross member.
    This gives more room to work.

  4. #4
    Tadpole
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    very grateful for your help , it is a huge relief to know i dont have to lift the engine out aswell or take off the whole front end . Hit the nail on the head with all the info i needed , i will be sure to take photos and document any issues , its the least i can do to help anyone elce out in the future , you guys are awesome and much appreciated , cheers

  5. #5
    Tadpole
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    I did a write up for a 2.0 HDi 307 where I changed the rear seal when doing my clutch / flywheel.
    Not sure how much is similar or different but the process would be similar I imagine.

    307 2.0 HDi 136 dual mass flywheel replacement guide

  6. #6
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    Don't forget to drain the g'box first because when you pull out the d'shafts it will let go of its fluid all over your floor.

    Rear engine seal is difficult to replace anyway. Most of the time, if you've got a high mileage engine you will find there's a wear channel in the crankshaft flange where the old seal sat, and the new seal will leak straight off the bat. It doesn't need to be too obvious a channel either. If you feel it when running you fingernail across, it's too big. You can try to rub it down with some emery paper, but this has its own perils (grit in the engine for instance).

    One option is to get another seal of different construction (say thinner) which will seat on a different, fresh spot on the flange but I am not sure there is one in the right size for you. Try bearing places.

    Another way is to space out the seal, something like 1mm with a shim under the bottom (inboard) edge. I have done this on other engines with success using shims I cut out of fiberglass PCB. Laborious, but better than having to take the g'box out again. Keep in mind the shim can not block oil access to the seal lip, or you'll burn it in no time.
    Last edited by schlitzaugen; 8th December 2013 at 01:49 PM.
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  7. #7
    1000+ Posts cav91's Avatar
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    An auto won't dump its oil after removing the drive shafts. But it's likely you'll bump the torque converter after the trans is out which will put oil everywhere!

    Via the aussiefrogs App
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    2017 Renault Koleos auto

  8. #8
    Tadpole
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    Some good advice from schlitzaugen. Below is a pic of a crankshaft out of my diesel Hilux that had 350k on it when I did the seal. The worn groove is obvious - I recessed the seal to run on a different part of the crank but another option is to get a 'speedi sleeve' from a bearing shop that goes over the crank running surface.


  9. #9
    1000+ Posts PeterT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by schlitzaugen View Post

    Rear engine seal is difficult to replace anyway. Most of the time, if you've got a high mileage engine you will find there's a wear channel in the crankshaft flange where the old seal sat, and the new seal will leak straight off the bat. It doesn't need to be too obvious a channel either. If you feel it when running you fingernail across, it's too big. You can try to rub it down with some emery paper, but this has its own perils (grit in the engine for instance).

    One option is to get another seal of different construction (say thinner) which will seat on a different, fresh spot on the flange but I am not sure there is one in the right size for you. Try bearing places.
    Your posts never cease to amaze me. The rear seal on any XU can simply be moved in another 1-2mm to find a fresh place on the crank. After 3 or 4 rebuilds, or 1 000 000 Km, you might be in trouble.

    '92 205 Mi16
    '90 Mi16x4

  10. #10
    Tadpole
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    Hi , thanks for all the tips ! , started on the 405 after work today and managed to get the driveshafts removed without many problems , will update with more piks as i progress .

    Jacked up the car nice and high on jack stands to give lots of clearance to drop the trans , removed wheels , axle nut , brakes and disks , steering arm and sway bar then compressed the coil spring and pulled out the shock and spring in one , the driveshafts came out fairly easy . next will be to prep the engine and trans to be lowered .
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails HELP - 405 rear crankshaft seal and trans removal-img_9767.jpg   HELP - 405 rear crankshaft seal and trans removal-img_9771.jpg   HELP - 405 rear crankshaft seal and trans removal-img_9774.jpg   HELP - 405 rear crankshaft seal and trans removal-img_9773.jpg   HELP - 405 rear crankshaft seal and trans removal-img_9775.jpg  

  11. #11
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeterT View Post
    Your posts never cease to amaze me. The rear seal on any XU can simply be moved in another 1-2mm to find a fresh place on the crank. After 3 or 4 rebuilds, or 1 000 000 Km, you might be in trouble.

    Yeah, I know, I am amazing.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

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