Peugeot 306 overheating! HELP
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Thread: Peugeot 306 overheating! HELP

  1. #1
    Tadpole
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    Default Peugeot 306 overheating! HELP

    hey guys so my 306 is overheating and is doing so very fast!
    it will get to the red after about 3-4 mins of driving so its very unusual.. you can see the gauge move in front go your eyes!
    do you think a thermostat change will do the trick or could it be something far worse?
    coolant is topped up so that can't be it.. any ideas?
    thank you all in advance

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  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Pull out the thermo and see if the problem goes away. If 3-4 minutes is from a cold motor that's happening really quick!

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    Tadpole
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    yes happens from cold its very strange!

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    Fellow Frogger!
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    is it possible that the water pump impeller has disintegrated but the spindle and pulley on the exterior are still OK?

    have heard that the water pumps are not the best on these and they do fail and should be replaced with a timing belt i.e. every 4 years

    just a thought as that seems way to quick unless it's a faulty temp sensor

    haven't looked but can you run the system unpressurised and see if the water is actually getting hot? bit like the old radiator days with the cap off and have a sticky beak and feel the water temp

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    Air in system? Are 306s hard to bleed?

    Cheers

    Alec
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  6. #6
    Administrator GreenBlood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Armidillo View Post
    Air in system? Are 306s hard to bleed?

    Cheers

    Alec
    Air in the system is a very likely cause, you cannot just top up with coolant! The filler is lower than much of the cooling system.

    DIY at home solution, undo the three bleed points - one on the radiator (twist cap) one at the thermostat and one where the heater pipes enter at the firewall. Using a 2ltr drink bottle with the bottom removed as a funnel (engine running) add coolant, as each of the bleed points has a free flow of coolant close it off (helps to have someone assisting). You may have to repeat the procedure to fully eliminate air.

    Why there was a loss of coolant in the first place will need to be investigated.

    Cheers
    Chris
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    Be careful with the bleeder valves- the one on the heater hose is in a nasty little plastic fitting which is easy to crack and may have already. The one in the thermostat housing rusts shut, so opening it may not vent the system.

    There is another plastic gizmo on the back of the engine connecting to a long hose which runs in the RH wheelbay. If the block surface rusts under it it will leak too.

    Check compression- you might have a blown head gasket already.

    Check that the engine really is getting hot, it might be a short or partial short in the sender wire. If you're seeing both high gauge and a temp warning light, the engine is overheating, if you don't (and both are working) it might be an instrumentation problem.if you run it with the cap off from cold and it doesn't bubble or get hot (glass themometer into the coolant & check) while the gauge is flying up, then it's instrumentation + whatever real cooling issue you may have.

    We've blown up a 306 twice, first time from corrosion, sencond time from the second vent pipe on the RH side of the radiator not fitted properly. Car was then fitted with an XU 10 from a 405 and a modified Toyota Tarago radiator (bought new and modified by the radiator shop) We've fitted a brass header tank on the firewall behind the battery to have the filler at the highest point in the system. We've also deleted all the original hose ends and gone to old style clamps.

    Low coolant in the standard system doesn't give a high gauge indication, since the gauge sender is in the thermostat housing and it reads low if there's not enough coolant in the system to get to the sender. The gauge reads normal or a bit high, while the cylinder head temperature goes way up. Old pugs 504 & earlier have the sender screwed into the head next to the No 1 combustion chamber.

  8. #8
    1000+ Posts Beano's Avatar
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    Being so fast, it'll be the thermostat.
    Unless the gasket's blown and hot gases are getting into the cooling system. Bubbles in radiator ??

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    Read the posts carefully as there a few things to get right .

    Don't drop the bleed caps into the engine area.
    Check the timing side cover for water leaking out of the pump.
    If the pump leaks you have no hope.

    Air bubbles/ percolating coolant are bad signs.
    Removing the thermostat and seeing what the temp does then after bleeding.

  10. #10
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    Bleeding and thermostats etc. are all likely causes. However, is it actually overheating? There is mention of the gauge moving to the red very quickly. Dodgy temp sensors are not unknown. In some models, a faulty temp sensor will fail open and show an overheating warning when it's actually OK.
    Do the cooling fans operate or not? It's going to need them to move air over the radiator and it will overheat if they do not cut in.

  11. #11
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    ^ Dom306, the cooling fans can be safely tested by switching on the A/C. It forces them on regardless of engine temp.
    2000 306 GTi6 'Josie'

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    Hey everyone! thank you for your responses, you've all been great help!
    will shortly begin investigating overheating issue.
    my first move will be to try the thermostat, i don't have any tools due to moving house.. so ill get the local mechanic to fit one.
    hopefully it won't cost all that much since ill be supplying the thermostat.
    anyway, if thats the issue ill be very happy, if not I'm going to have to keep trying different things, bleeding etc...
    and ps, yes the engine is overheating not just a faulty gauge. the car gets so hot it loses all power and just clunks and drives verrryyyyyy slow.
    will update when i try a few things! thank you all

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by dom306 View Post

    ...

    and ps, yes the engine is overheating not just a faulty gauge. the car gets so hot it loses all power and just clunks and drives verrryyyyyy slow.

    ...
    It might be a bit late for the new thermostat and bleeding therapy ...

  14. #14
    Tadpole
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    Here's some tips I learnt recently from a Peugeot mechanic to do with a 306 overheating problem:
    - With the engine running, feel the top radiator hose. The thermostat valve should open at about 90deg, so the hose should become very hot. If it doesn't, while gauge temp continues rising, then the thermostat is not opening and is suspect.
    - Don't run the engine if gauge temp climbs over 100deg.
    - Let the engine cool for 30 minutes after running the engine before opening the thermostat housing to replace the thermostat.
    - Opening its housing lets coolant out and air in. It is easy for an air pocket to form behind the new thermostat. If that happens, the thermostat won't open because that air pocket won't heat to 90deg before the engine overheats. A trick is to drill a hole about 1/8" (3mm) diameter through the thermostat plate (the flat disc part of the thermostat) to let air/water through. It's a way to relieve such an air pocket. It won't substantially affect the function of the valve, so you aren't ruining your new thermostat.
    - (this one is for the XU7 engine ...) the bleed valve that is a spigot plugged with a socket head screw, next to the thermostat housing (at the 11 o'clock position in relation to the thermostat, only about 25 mm from the thermostat) may be clogged with compacted sediment, so that no air or water will bleed out. Use a long 3mm drill bit to drill through the sediment. Don't keep drilling through the aluminium of the housing's back wall, of course.
    - As said by someone above, the other bleed valves are fragile and best left unused now because the plastics are getting brittle with age and break easily.
    - After replacing the thermostat, in addition to re-checking the heat of top radiator hose, also check that the lower radiator hose (down behind the front bumper, driver's right side) gets hot when the engine runs. If it doesn't, then there is still a blockage.
    - You can also check with your hand the temperature down the back of the radiator fins. The radiator should get hot at the top first, while the bottom of the radiator remains cold at first. Within a few minutes, the heat should travel down until the whole radiator gets hot. If the bottom remains cold, it indicates inefficient circulation somewhere in the system, or else a radiator blockage.

  15. #15
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    dom306, what was the outcome?

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