505 GTI injection problems
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Thread: 505 GTI injection problems

  1. #1
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    Default 505 GTI injection problems

    I have just had the motor taken out to replace the clutch fork. She ran for two days and then died completely, The auto electrician has traced it to some sort of injection pulse problem but does'nt have any specs for an L2 system that early ( it's a series 2 '89 build) only my Haynes manual- LOL! can anyone help with wiring diagrams or thoughts ? Max

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  2. #2
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    Initial tests usually are is it a lack of ignition or fuel? I assume this is the 2.2 lt L Jetronic engine?

    If ignition, then a check of the ignition module, wiring & terminal connections / security etc should be completed. Also, check the fuses.

    If fuel, then a first check should be to determine if the main pressure pump behind the spare wheel carrier is receiving 10-12 V during engine cranking. If no voltage, then check the fuses & if OK, replace the tachymetric relay behind the panel next to the steering wheel.

    I would also check the computer loom plug onto the airflow sensor; dry, damp or loose connection can result in a no start.

    Hope this helps?

    K

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    for sure. The pulse from ignition the ECU takes it directly from the coil (same as tachymetric relay)


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    Thanks, it has good fuel pressure so the pump and relay are OK.It seems to be getting too much fuel or pulsing wrongly or something......
    just a note, I have had tachy relay failure some years ago, cured by dressing the points in the relay.

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    Failure to start will also be caused by a lack of vacuum to the airflow sensor, This is usually caused by the large clamps & flexible hose connections not been fitted correctly, causing a loss of vacuum. Otherwise, as the engine has been out, all hoses & wiring should be checked not only for a sound connection, but correct connections as well.

    I recall that a wire from the starter solenoid is piggy-backed to the tachymetric relay? Does your GTi version have the engine over-run fuel cut-off relay? It is located near the brake booster & controls electrical power to the main fuel pump.

    Cheers,

    K.

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    Having played with l jetronic a lot i have found the first thing to get in order is the spark, its totally independant from the injection but without spark the injection cant work


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    it has been in the auto electrician for a week- a top man I have been using for years-and he is stumped. The fuel pressure is good.The spark is great. All sensors are within spec.He even pulled off the exhaust to check for back pressure- no problem.He checked all the harness for bad connectors.The only clue is that the plugs are wet, which maybe indicates the injector pulse or ignition is out of timing.At this point I have had it towed back to the original mechanic but they can't look at it until after the long weekend.

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    Quote Originally Posted by KIMDEB View Post
    Failure to start will also be caused by a lack of vacuum to the airflow sensor, This is usually caused by the large clamps & flexible hose connections not been fitted correctly, causing a loss of vacuum. Otherwise, as the engine has been out, all hoses & wiring should be checked not only for a sound connection, but correct connections as well.
    Hi Maxy, I second what Kimdeb mentioned as worth checking. I had a 505 series 2, '89 build and had a similar experience as you described soon after having some major work done. All the hoses had been removed and re-fitted and in the process the disturbance caused a very small crack on the hose piece to the airflow sensor.

    Finding the problem had my mechanic puzzled because it was almost impossible to spot without removing the hose and inspecting it. It was only after asking here that I received similar clues. I tried to find the thread but think it may have been lost in the forum crash a while ago.

    Attached is a pic of the one a fellow af member sold me. Apparently the part is no longer available new but I got by initially by cleaning it and using a suitable silicon. In my case the crack was a hairline one next to the neck of the little metal hose piece. I hope you get it sorted soon.

    KA

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    Fellow Frogger! Bruce Llewellyn's Avatar
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    Been here, also 89 model.


    There is a small black vacuum tank on the LH chassis rail. It supplies vacuum to the ECU for mixure control. Check the hose is still on it. It falls off quite easily. Without this vacuum signal, the ECU goes full rich and fouls the plugs.

    It's right above the cross member, hidden behind the coolant bottle. The ECU won't give you an error code for it and all other sensors will check out fine. Took me 3 days to find it. Best access is from above and behind the intake plenum on the LH side.

    If this is the problem (and there's nothing else you haven't eliminated) it will take you 3 seconds to fix...

    Bruce.

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    Demannu-facturing! Demannu's Avatar
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    The basic L-jet system has only 4 inputs to produce the fuel pulse output. They are airflow meter, air temperature sensor, coolant temperature sensor and ignition pulses. There is also an idle switch that controls overrun fueling. The LH-2 system adds lamba feedback control with a separate circuit.

    With the airflow meter, coolant temp sensor and ignition pulses reaching the ECU, it will run. Air temperature (which is actually part of the airflow meter) makes only very fine adjustments to the mixture, as does the lambda control.

    Check each of the wires and connections between these two sensors and the ECU (which is located behind the glovebox). I will have a dig around tonight, I used to have a wiring diagram for the L-jet systems. Look for corrosion on terminals or areas of the wiring loom that have been crimped or damaged through the clutch fork replacement (also a very common problem on these cars).
    Scotty

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    I'll have a rummage around & see if I disturbed a wire with that hose then...

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    thanks,that does seem to be the problem-the mechanic has found a poor connection to the temp. sensor and is waiting to obtain a new one.I only had about 35K out of the last clutch fork which seems pathetic.(has anyone any experience with this?)I would be very grateful for the wiring if possible as my electrician had no info. on this old system.
    Max

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    Quote Originally Posted by Maxy View Post
    thanks,that does seem to be the problem-the mechanic has found a poor connection to the temp. sensor and is waiting to obtain a new one.I only had about 35K out of the last clutch fork which seems pathetic.(has anyone any experience with this?)I would be very grateful for the wiring if possible as my electrician had no info. on this old system.
    Max
    The clutch fork MUST be installed with a good quality high-pressure grease between the fork and the pivot, and the rubber seal must be intact, otherwise you will only get a year or two out of the fork.

    You should also apply a dab of grease to the tines that contact the thrust bearing, and the end of the pushrod from the slave cylinder.
    Scotty

    Melbourne - Dandenong Ranges

    1956 Peugeot 403 - 'Francois' - resto project

    1969 Peugeot 504 - 'Pascal' - daily driver project

    1970 Peugeot 404 Utility - 'Brutus' - resto project

    1978 Peugeot 604 - as yet unnamed - V6 on straight LPG

    1987 Peugeot 505 - as yet unnamed - project car

    1999 Peugeot 406 Coupé - 'Chloe' - 5 speed manual

    2011 Peugeot 3008 XTE HDi - 'Zoe' - hatchback on steroids

    2014 Peugeot RCZ - 'Remy'

    1999 Range Rover 4.6 HSE - 'Grover' - tow car

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    Thanks, might be a bit late for some of this but I will talk to the mechanic.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Maxy View Post
    thanks,that does seem to be the problem-the mechanic has found a poor connection to the temp. sensor and is waiting to obtain a new one.I only had about 35K out of the last clutch fork which seems pathetic.(has anyone any experience with this?)I would be very grateful for the wiring if possible as my electrician had no info. on this old system.
    Max
    Heard of a clutch fork from a new kit which failed around the ball (pressed too thin at manufacture) replaced with a good second hand one- that was before I got the car. It was fine when I changed the engine a few weeks ago. It may be possible to check on the hoist.

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