504 boot lock jammed
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  1. #1
    Tadpole
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    Default 504 boot lock jammed

    Hi all,

    So my 504 boot lock has got stuck in some way. I'm unable to open it so can't really work out what's happening in there, Any advice on how best to proceed?

    What's happening is that I can still lock/unlock it with the key, although unlocking now needs a bit force. However, in the unlocked position, the latch gets jammed at around the point it would start to release.

    Pretty much assuming I will need to destroy something but would like to keep it to just the lock/latch and not mess with the body work. I was thinking maybe trying to drill it out, but am concerned that may not even help me much given that it's the latch mechanism, not the lock barrel that seems to be causing the problems. Not sure what's behind there either.

    I have something in there I need to get out too!

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  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger! Roland's Avatar
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    Is there a panel behind the rear seat that can be removed to give you access. I once had to do this on a 405 with a ratchet ring spanner on a long length of wooden dowel. I managed to unbolt the lock and get the boot open.

  3. #3
    Tadpole
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roland View Post
    Is there a panel behind the rear seat that can be removed to give you access. I once had to do this on a 405 with a ratchet ring spanner on a long length of wooden dowel. I managed to unbolt the lock and get the boot open.
    hmm maybe. I had a bit of a look in the heat of the moment and it didn't look particularly promising. Just solid steel from what I could tell, but perhaps as you say there is a part of it that can be removed. Sounds like it might be worth another look.

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger! julian b's Avatar
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    I dont think there is any access from the back seat . If you eventually have to mutilate the bodywork ,you could cut out a large hole you could get your arm through in the area covered by the numberplate ,and rivet on a cover plate with silicone later .Before you try this you could try drilling out the lock ,they are easy to find s/h

  5. #5
    1000+ Posts 504-504-504's Avatar
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    Reminds me of the "bargain" safe somebody bought at auction.
    Its sitting outside the locksmiths near work.
    Unfortunately the safe didn't come with combination details.
    So far they have drilled four holes through the steel/concrete/steel walls trying to access the tumblers.
    Might be there for a while yet.
    Make a great boat anchor if you had a crane and truck to move it.

    Once it stops raining I will duck under the house and see if I can find a lock mechanism to photograph the underside of the lock for you.
    From memory the latching tab is held onto the lock mechanism by a small nut.
    You may have to sacrifice a taillight to gain access if you can't get at it from the back seat.

    Paul.

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Ok I went out and had a look at my 504, and came up with these two options:

    A:
    Hopefully your car has speakers fitted to the parcel shelf. If so, I would do more or less as Roland did. That is, get the correct size socket and a small ratchet handle (1/4" drive would be easiest due to weight) zip tie/duct tape it to a stick that is long enough to reach to the latch from the speaker hole, but small enough to get it in so that you can get it on the right angle. You should be able to undo the part of the latch that is fitted to the boot lid.

    B:
    If no speaker hole, I think you will have to drill the lock. Before doing so, I'd unlock it and try very hard to unlatch it using some vice grips or something. After all, you are going to destroy the latch anyway.
    '96 Peugeot 405 SRDT Station Wagon

    '71 Peugeot 504 GL - gone

    '91 Peugeot 205si - gone

  7. #7
    1000+ Posts Peter C's Avatar
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    All of my 504s have a smallish oval hole at each side of the metalwork behind the back seat. I'd try taking out the back seats and, with an assistant to light the way on one side with a torch, try scatterbrains A idea. The nuts should be 10mm.

    Even if you are able to remove the nuts you may still have problems opening the boot but it could be worth a try.

    Before doing anything else I'd make sure the boot is in the unlocked position and give the boot lid a couple of good solid heaves. You never know.

  8. #8
    pur-john, not pew-john! peujohn's Avatar
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    I had the boot get stuck on a 504 I had for parts once. We ended up opening it with a crowbar. Destroyed the bootlid, but the lock didn't let go.

    You may like to give Dr Doorhandle a call. I used this person (a lady) some years ago. Haven't seen her around for a long time, but when I googled the name it came up with a panel beater and painter in Mt Evelyn. I think the address is correct anyway. Give them a try and describe your problem, they may be able to help. Phone 9737 1288.
    John W

    1979 Peugeot 504 GTI 2.2 litre 5 speed - 72 kW at the wheels

    1974 Peugeot 504 TI
    - now on the road

    2009 Peugeot 407 HDI wagon - family car

    Previous: 2005 407 HDI manual sedan, 1980 504 GL, 1990 405 Mi16, 1977 504 GL Special, 1984 505 SRD Turbo



  9. #9
    Fellow Frogger!
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    I think Peter is talking about the nuts that attach the latch to the boot itself, which are indeed 10mm.

    I was thinking you could remove the part of the latch that attaches to the boot lid, but I was wrong - the latch will be in the way with the boot closed.
    '96 Peugeot 405 SRDT Station Wagon

    '71 Peugeot 504 GL - gone

    '91 Peugeot 205si - gone

  10. #10
    1000+ Posts Wildebeest's Avatar
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    Octofish,
    Have just had a gander at the boot lock [boot open] on my '79 504. It has the two oval holes posted previously [*7].
    My boot lock has provision for a remote opener ie solenoid switch pulls a cable attached to the lock mechanism via a small wire lever.
    I'm thinking this wire lever could be accessed by drilling an unobtrusive 2 or 3mm hole above the exterior handle/lock barrel.
    This should align by feel with the wire lever using a fine screwdriver or stiff wire. When engaged it could possibly release the lock by levering horizontally.

  11. #11
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  12. #12
    1000+ Posts 504-504-504's Avatar
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    Didn't even try using the axe as a lever near the lock.
    Must have been some reason that wouldn't work.

    Paul

  13. #13
    Fellow Frogger! Tom_95's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 59 Floride View Post
    Wow... That's one tough boot lock!
    1975 Peugeot 504 GL | 2018 Suzuki Swift GLX Turbo

  14. #14
    1000+ Posts Peter C's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scatterbrain View Post
    I think Peter is talking about the nuts that attach the latch to the boot itself, which are indeed 10mm.

    I was thinking you could remove the part of the latch that attaches to the boot lid, but I was wrong - the latch will be in the way with the boot closed.
    Okay, I was thinking that with the 10mm removed it may be possible to shake the boot lid around enough that whatever's holding it shut lets go.

  15. #15
    Fellow Frogger! Bruce Llewellyn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by octofish View Post
    Hi all,

    So my 504 boot lock has got stuck in some way. I'm unable to open it so can't really work out what's happening in there, Any advice on how best to proceed?

    What's happening is that I can still lock/unlock it with the key, although unlocking now needs a bit force. However, in the unlocked position, the latch gets jammed at around the point it would start to release.

    Pretty much assuming I will need to destroy something but would like to keep it to just the lock/latch and not mess with the body work. I was thinking maybe trying to drill it out, but am concerned that may not even help me much given that it's the latch mechanism, not the lock barrel that seems to be causing the problems. Not sure what's behind there either.

    I have something in there I need to get out too!
    It sounds like the latch has started to sieze up and has stripped the end off the little square shaft that goes from the lock barrel to the latch assy. It is possible to break the number plate light lenze on the LH side ( I think) and prod the latch release with a thin screwdriver. You'll need another car to compare. If you use a large phillips head screwdriver to simulate the boot catch on another car you can operate the mechanism, see what moves etc. with the boot open. Also undo the number plate lights and see which is the best way to get in, make a wire hook etc.etc. so you have some idea as to how to tackle your car.

    There shouldn't be any shortage of number plate light lenses to replace yours.

    Also look at unscrewing the nut which holds the lock assembly in place, If you get this out you can spray WD spray into the latch and work it from outside with a suitable plain blade screwdriver inserted into the lock shaft hole.

    Good luck.

    Bruce.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce Llewellyn View Post
    It sounds like the latch has started to sieze up and has stripped the end off the little square shaft that goes from the lock barrel to the latch assy. It is possible to break the number plate light lenze on the LH side ( I think) and prod the latch release with a thin screwdriver. You'll need another car to compare. If you use a large phillips head screwdriver to simulate the boot catch on another car you can operate the mechanism, see what moves etc. with the boot open. Also undo the number plate lights and see which is the best way to get in, make a wire hook etc.etc. so you have some idea as to how to tackle your car.

    There shouldn't be any shortage of number plate light lenses to replace yours.

    Also look at unscrewing the nut which holds the lock assembly in place, If you get this out you can spray WD spray into the latch and work it from outside with a suitable plain blade screwdriver inserted into the lock shaft hole.

    Good luck.

    Bruce.
    What Bruce says sounds sensible to me.Are you a Christian perchance...because before performing any of the above operations it may help if you first pray.Seriously....the only other thing I can think of after spraying WD 40 into the lock is to push down on the boot as you turn the latch

  17. #17
    Fellow Frogger! Bruce Llewellyn's Avatar
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    Sorry guys,

    Memory played me false, you'll have to drill a hole.

    1/4" diameter, upwards through the top of the number plate recess. If you get down to pray and look up you'll see the screw holding the centre of the number plate aperture trim in place. Drill 15mm to the left and 20 mm back from the number plate panel. The latch release lever is about 15 to 20 mm inside and has to be pushed to the left to release the latch. Have a good look at another car and it will be easy to see what you have to do. Put a bit of fuel hose on the drill so it doesn't go more than a few mm inside or it will hit the latch and bend things.

    The hole can be filled with a suitable bolt afterwards.

    The number plate lights don't give direct access and the lamp brackets get in the way.

    Bruce.

  18. #18
    Fellow Frogger! Molerpa's Avatar
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    the last time that happened to me, I drill the lock drum itself with 12mm drill bit.
    opened, and replaced the lock (which is easy and cheap to get)

    After that, on my 504 Installed a electrical internal opening.


    Quote Originally Posted by luthier View Post
    It is simply impractical to expect a petrol motor to get through too much water. That's why God invented diesels.

  19. #19
    1000+ Posts Wildebeest's Avatar
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    Octofish,
    How did you get on with your boot lock?
    A few froggie posters out here await the answer.

  20. #20
    1000+ Posts Wildebeest's Avatar
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    Octo,
    How did you go with the boot lock, the weekends shopping would be getting a bit ripe by now?
    Any joy or result that you'd like to pass on to your mates.

  21. #21
    Fellow Frogger!
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    He's stuck in the bloody boot!

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