306 brake lights
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  1. #1
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    Default 306 brake lights

    Hello all,

    It seems my 306's brake lights have failed I've checked the fuses and they all seem OK (afaik, not sure exactly which fuse is the one for it).

    Any ideas? It's a 2001 306XSi.

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  2. #2
    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    Do you not have the owner's handbook? That contains a fuse diagram.

    I'd suggest, though, looking at the brake light switch actuated by the pedal.

  3. #3
    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
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    Maybe too obvious, have you checked the light bulbs???

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    I would go a brake switch, roughly $25 from Peugeot. I real pain in the butt to change though.
    You'll get lots of tiny cuts! :L
    They usually get stuck in on the 306 and hence the brake lights not working.

    306gti6.com has covered this problem a bit, seems to be another common fault in the 306.

    Good luck!
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  5. #5
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    I would start by changing the MAP sensor. If this makes no difference, try replacing the coolant temperature sensor (the blue one). If the radiator fans are not working normally, you should also swap the brown Bitron sensor for a new one.

    After this, if your brake lights are not working perfectly you need to replace both the TPS and coil pack. Disconnect the battery for half an hour, then reconnect and go for a slow drive around the block while the brake pedal re-initialises itself.

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    Quote Originally Posted by addo View Post
    I would start by changing the MAP sensor. If this makes no difference, try replacing the coolant temperature sensor (the blue one). If the radiator fans are not working normally, you should also swap the brown Bitron sensor for a new one.

    After this, if your brake lights are not working perfectly you need to replace both the TPS and coil pack. Disconnect the battery for half an hour, then reconnect and go for a slow drive around the block while the brake pedal re-initialises itself.
    Have I missed something? I don't understand how those would contribute to faulty brake lights?
    P-Plater

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    1000+ Posts jo proffi's Avatar
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    Thanks addo, I suspect this post was for my amusement.

    Yes, bradlehgortz, you have missed a thread or two.....

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    Makes sense, I was poking around that area to install the wiring for my handsfree the other week, I must have broken something.

    Thanks, I'll have a look at the weekend

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    Default 306 brake lights

    Where do I get the switch? Is going through Peugeot my only option or do others offer it? I'm in Melbourne.

  10. #10
    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    So it was definitely the switch? Or are we playing "swap and pray"?

    4534.51 is the part number for an N5 306 brake switch. Also found on 405 facelift, 406, Partner. Probably Xsara and C5 early, too.

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    Fellow Frogger! BradlehGordz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by addo View Post
    So it was definitely the switch? Or are we playing "swap and pray"?

    4534.51 is the part number for an N5 306 brake switch. Also found on 405 facelift, 406, Partner. Probably Xsara and C5 early, too.
    How would you test the switch directly?

    I assumed it was with my situation but sticking my head under the dash and seen that the button stayed pressed even when the brake pedal was pushed, would there been an easier to test?
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    You unplugged it and the lights went out? That's a pretty good test.

    A few aftermarket suppliers, probably the last place to buy one would be off Ateco!

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    I didn't get a good look earlier today (I was in a hurry), but I couldn't see anything too abnormal. I'd have to have another look when I have time (unfortunately not this week!).

    Of course now the cooling system's decided to pack it in as well. Bloody thing overheated between my place and my parents' place. Had to top it up with water and coolant and nurse it the 40km to their place (stopping three times along the way).

    Thing is, even if the temp gauge was at 100-110, the radiator hoses don't seem that hot, and even the water in the radiator isn't that hot. My dad reckons the thermostat's the culprit, I was thinking maybe the radiator hoses or even the waterpump. Considering that there's a light squealing from the belt near the overflow (which was removed and replaced a couple months back when the alternator was done), I'm assuming that the waterpump has seized.

    By aftermarket suppliers I originally thought Supercheap et al, but chances are I wouldn't have much luck with them.

    My dad reckons to remove the thermostat and see if it's OK, and if it's working fine, I reckon we'll need to get a local mechanic to have a look at it and the brake lights. Not driving it 100km back home the way it is (fortunately I can borrow their spare car if need be).

    If the thermostat's buggered, my dad's plan was to just drive it without the thermostat for a while. I'm due for a service soon anyway (700km to go), so maybe I'll just have to book it in early and get the whole thing looked at.

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    I'd suggest that continuing to drive it when overheating like that, thermostat or not, will root the motor. It's not "built Ford tough" or anything like that. The waterpump is turned by the timing belt, so if the waterpump had seized the timing belt would be broken and it wouldn't run again.

    If it's a 1.8 ("LFY" contained in the VIN): The all-alloy motors seem to digest their steel head gaskets with age, so it may have been tipped over the edge by virtue of nothing more than old age - not operator error. As a set, one does head gaskets, head bolts, thermostat. Water pump and timing belt if any doubt on age of these parts (age being a greater killer from my observation than mileage). Cost in parts would be $350-ish if bought overseas, maybe $500 locally but if they sell you the wrong bit at EAI or Caravelle, it's a lot easier to exchange!

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    Quote Originally Posted by addo View Post
    You unplugged it and the lights went out? That's a pretty good test.
    A few aftermarket suppliers, probably the last place to buy one would be off Ateco!
    I don't recall saying I "uplugged it". I seen that the button on the switch itself was stuck in, which meant lights off. That's how people on 306gti6.com suggested to me to diagnose it as it's the main cause of failure with the switch.

    How would you suggest testing it?
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by BradlehGordz View Post
    I don't recall saying I "uplugged it". I seen that the button on the switch itself was stuck in, which meant lights off. That's how people on 306gti6.com suggested to me to diagnose it as it's the main cause of failure with the switch.

    How would you suggest testing it?
    You dont need to test it if it is stuck in.
    It has already failed its primary test.
    Maybe you could push it with your finger a few times, but thats about as sophisticated as it gets when it's a physical issue with jammed moving parts.



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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by addo View Post
    I'd suggest that continuing to drive it when overheating like that, thermostat or not, will root the motor. It's not "built Ford tough" or anything like that. The waterpump is turned by the timing belt, so if the waterpump had seized the timing belt would be broken and it wouldn't run again.

    If it's a 1.8 ("LFY" contained in the VIN): The all-alloy motors seem to digest their steel head gaskets with age, so it may have been tipped over the edge by virtue of nothing more than old age - not operator error. As a set, one does head gaskets, head bolts, thermostat. Water pump and timing belt if any doubt on age of these parts (age being a greater killer from my observation than mileage). Cost in parts would be $350-ish if bought overseas, maybe $500 locally but if they sell you the wrong bit at EAI or Caravelle, it's a lot easier to exchange!
    Well, it seems to have become worse. My dad decided to have a look at it and removed the thermostat, and we went for a little drive to see if it was OK. It was running fine for a while, but on the way back it started to heat up again and losing power. Unfortunately it ended up cutting out and we had to get it towed back. Doesn't start anymore either. The tow truck driver reckons it'll be the head that's gone (and I believe he said it'd be $2500-3000 to fix the thing).

    Weird thing is that even though the engine was overheating, the radiator was fairly cold and the radiator hoses weren't exactly hot either.

    The engine's the 2.0L, and the water level's been going up and down for a while, and I've been keeping an eye on the water levels (and IIRC the mechanic said it was OK). The timing belt was done in early 2010 (when I got the car), but the waterpump wasn't done then IIRC.

    I'm rather annoyed right now with it.

  18. #18
    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    No point being annoyed with the car, it's been trying to tell you it doesn't feel well for the last day or two.

    ANY water loss from a modern (expansion tank type) cooling system should be investigated once noticed, and you need to be able to sleep easy with the cause.

    If the water pump was failing, it would either have let go completely by now - preceded by awful graunching noises - or have given away the game by consistent small puddles of coolant just inside the right front wheel "footprint" whenever parked warm.

    Being a two litre you can install a new (=used) head unless you cooked it so badly the rings lost tension. $600 for a head (tops) and $500 for the bits, get a knowledgeable mate to help or run up the white flag for an AF member nearby to assist and you should be sorted.

  19. #19
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    OK, so the head's been rebuilt, and my mechanic said to source a new radiator cap for it ASAP. Did that off eBay last week, and it arrived today.

    I've driven it for a week or two and it seems to stay in the 90-95 degree range. A little warm, but whatever.

    I just collected the new radiator cap, put it on (and a little bit more water again as recommended), and drove it for 10 minutes before I noticed it reaching 110 degrees! Stopped it as soon as I could, left it cool for 10-20min (by which it had dropped to 70), and drove it home (stopping twice along the way as it got over 100, which was excessive for a ~2km drive.

    The old radiator cap is now back on (I heard a slight 'pssh' sound as I opened the bonnet too with the engine off). There was pressure in the system after half an hour when I replaced the cap with the old one. The radiator felt cold when it overheated, but the head felt really damn hot.

    Should it be OK, or am I likely to have cooked the head again? I just spent three grand on getting the head rebuilt, if it's happened again I'm trading the thing in!

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