404 ignition ?
  • Register
  • Help
Results 1 to 14 of 14

Thread: 404 ignition ?

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! Phil Whitton's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Bargo Sthn Highlands NSW
    Posts
    273

    Icon5 404 ignition ?

    OK I'm up to the electrics on the Bitch and thanks to generous donor cars and long forgotten boxes of spares, I have three late model and one early model ignition controls. Only one of the later models would be repairable as all have had the retaining plate "butchered".
    Any leads or offers of a replacement?

    Advertisement


    Merci ( in anticipation ) PJW

  2. #2
    Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    79

    Default

    Try European Auto Imports in Melbourne ph 98996683. I got a brand newie for around $180. Sounds like a lot but I also found it v difficult to source a good one secondhand. Greg

  3. #3
    Gone Fishin' Ray Bell's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    Burpengary and Murrumburrah, Qld and NSW
    Posts
    9,223

    Default

    I'm having trouble understanding which part you are talking about...

    Of course, whichever one it is, I know I've thrown out dozens of them... or have had them thrown out behind my back!

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger! Phil Whitton's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Bargo Sthn Highlands NSW
    Posts
    273

    Default ignition thingy

    Ray ( nice to hear from you again)

    OK I wasn't as specific as I sould have been: its the silver thingy stuck to the side of the long black tube that the steering wheel is bolted on to, into which goes a key in order to complete the circuit for the little green men to get to the starter thingy to spin the blowfly over and (allthings being unequal) get sparks to the bitey things and proceed in a forward ( or backward) direction.

    Because neanderthals do not insert the pin punch to push back the spring plate, the use of a flat bladed screwdriver provides leverage to said module thus distorting the plate beyond repair.

    To be more specific Peugeot part # 4161.22 Lock ignition and steering ( with 2 keys) as fitted with blade connectors. ( according to my parts book anyway).

    Of the collection, most have worn out, or been bent, thats why they are in the spares box as the good ones are still in the cars long gone..

    Have a look in that back box you forgot about.
    Merci
    Phil

  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger! Phil Whitton's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Bargo Sthn Highlands NSW
    Posts
    273

    Icon11 ignition thingy

    Thanks Greg: I have been in touch but had hoped that as a result of my generosity in giving and selling bits cheaply, it might have been my turn to be on the receiving end of the "chinese deal" arrangement for a change.

    Even my local Pug dealer has loaned me his 407 for the weekend........



    There has to be a switch somewhere...............

    Merci
    PJW

  6. #6
    Gone Fishin' Ray Bell's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    Burpengary and Murrumburrah, Qld and NSW
    Posts
    9,223

    Default

    There might be a source I can tap... I'll ask.

    But I still don't understand which bit you want...

  7. #7
    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Location
    Parkes - N.S.W - Australia - Earth
    Posts
    12,256

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Whitton

    Even my local Pug dealer has loaned me his 407 for the weekend........


    Merci
    PJW

    mackays ?
    3 x '78 604 SL

    1 x '98 306 GTi6

    1 x secret project

    1 x '98 406 STDT troop carrier and i don't care if it stinks, i don't sniff it's arse Death by wank tank

    1 x '99 406SV 5spd wagon, time to burn more fuel

    1 x 1994 605 SV3.0


    WTD long range fuel tank for 605

  8. #8
    Fellow Frogger! Phil Whitton's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Bargo Sthn Highlands NSW
    Posts
    273

    Icon4

    Pugrambo: Ive sent a PM.

    Ray: what is it about the ignition module switch that you don't understand? Was the previous description not clear enough?


    PJW

  9. #9
    Gone Fishin' Ray Bell's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    Burpengary and Murrumburrah, Qld and NSW
    Posts
    9,223

    Default

    Well, Phil, maybe I'm reading it too literally...

    You mentioned a 'plate' that was damaged, then you talked about what I would call the housing in which the barrel is inserted being damaged... or did I miss something?

  10. #10
    Fellow Frogger! Phil Whitton's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Bargo Sthn Highlands NSW
    Posts
    273

    Icon11

    OK Ray: seeing its a wet rainy day here and the khana at Oran PK is muddy, I 've finished the wireing on the rear lights from old looms and now will readdress the ignition.
    Yes both the retaining plate ( thats the spring loaded plate on the side of the ignition module which has to be held back in order for the module to be drawn from the surrounding housing, with the key in the ON position) and the surrounding housing which is part of the steering column with the 8mm bolt, are both damaged.
    As I have several columns from which I have reassembled a complete steering column, the missing part in order to complete this exercise is the ignition module (complete).

    The unit I am seeking has the blade connectors.
    I trust this is clearer perhaps?

    Merci beaucoup.
    PJW

  11. #11
    Gone Fishin' Ray Bell's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    Burpengary and Murrumburrah, Qld and NSW
    Posts
    9,223

    Default

    Well, Phil, I have one in the car in Brisbane that I intend replacing with one you gave me... problem is that one of the kids stuck a key in there that didn't belong and I can't get it out!

    I'll also check out another car up north, I think it probably has keys with it, in which event I would simply give you back the whole set you gave me.

    There must be others... but let's start with that...

    You say the ignition has to be turned to the 'on' position to press the pin?

  12. #12
    Fellow Frogger! Phil Whitton's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Bargo Sthn Highlands NSW
    Posts
    273

    Icon7

    Ah ha: your question rang a tiny bell in the dark recesses of my memory and sent me back to my handbook. The key has to be in the "garage" position in order for the lock to be negated rather than the "on" position..
    I need to go back to my books more often. Thanks.

    PJW

  13. #13
    Fellow Frogger! Janek's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydernee
    Posts
    200

    Default

    phil, have found all sorts of goodies digging through the garage, but still to no avail with the ignition.. will keep looking though!

  14. #14
    Fellow Frogger! Phil Whitton's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Bargo Sthn Highlands NSW
    Posts
    273

    Icon12

    After sourcing switches ( Thanks Garry & Peter) I solved the problem of the rotation of the contact plate.
    One switch had limited rootation and on dismantling found the pin location out by 20' (minutes) before the secondary circuit made contact and an additional 5' for starter contact. when i compared all 5 switch barrels ( both damaged and not so damaged ) it was seen the the key turns through 180o before it aligns then, then an additional 1/4 rotation for contact. However as mine had a bent locking plate ( the bit you have to push in to remove the lock from the column) this prevented the mechanism from turning the last 1/4 turn, thus no ignition.
    Some micro bending and voila !! power and noise from starter.

    so lesson 1 learnt: check plate for missalignment.

    bon chance

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •