WTB: Tool for extracting valves on R8G motor
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Thread: WTB: Tool for extracting valves on R8G motor

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default WTB: Tool for extracting valves on R8G motor

    Does anyone have the special tool for extracting valve springs, collets and valves from the head of a R8G motor?
    Tried to buy but are expensive and unable to supply for 2 - 3 weeks. Willing to pay a reasonable price if one is available for sale.

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  2. #2
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    What's so hard to make one?

    There are also generic tools, no good?
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

  3. #3
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    I will be making one if one isn't available. Just seeing what is out there to make life a little easier.

  4. #4
    1000+ Posts driven's Avatar
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    Simple

    spring.jpg
    Bustamif, bowie, FIVEDOOR and 2 others like this.

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    1000+ Posts bowie's Avatar
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    That is fkn cool

    Works: 2003 YV Commodore (That is Cecil to you)
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    1000+ Posts Dano's Avatar
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    Necessity, the mother of invention. Very clever!

  7. #7
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    Very ingenious but the head is not an R8G head. The later has no anchor point for the spanner to depress the valve springs. I have made up a tool using one that I had for my R12s long ago but the double valve springs are too strong. So I have decided to get the head pressure tested and the valves done by professionals out at Fyshwick Heads in Canberra. Both heads ( I have a spare) have already been skimmed.
    Kenfuego and JohnW like this.

  8. #8
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bazzamac View Post
    Very ingenious but the head is not an R8G head. The later has no anchor point for the spanner to depress the valve springs. I have made up a tool using one that I had for my R12s long ago but the double valve springs are too strong. So I have decided to get the head pressure tested and the valves done by professionals out at Fyshwick Heads in Canberra. Both heads ( I have a spare) have already been skimmed.
    After years of occasional valve work myself, I confess to sending heads to specialists now. They sort the guides and do the valves properly. My valve seat cutters won't touch some newer (R8/10) valve seats either so they must have changed the material at some stage. I don't regret the money involved. My R8 head (R10S actually) was done this way in 1988 and not touched since. I have spare heads in plastic bags in the cupboard, so can do a swap if needed unexpectedly at Christmas - when else would this happen, since everyone is shut for weeks!!
    JohnW

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  9. #9
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    Yes, the double spring arrangement is a bit more difficult to deal with, but that only means you need a stronger spanner. For my 17G I used a little valve compressor tool that hooks two claws around the spring coils and compresses the spring against the retainer. This can only grab the outer spring, but with that lifted off the seat, I can push down the inner down by hand with a bit of effort.

    As for leverage point, I think that guy used a bolt in an existing hole. Your 8G must have the oil ramp bracket bolt holes nearby, right?
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

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