DS3 oil change

[ds3]

Hi, new member here We just bought a 2013 DS3 Sport cab (1.6 THP155). Loving it so far!

First things first, we're going to change the oil & filter. Thinking of ordering a couple of these filters from Run Auto Parts, but I'm not sure what sump washer to get, nor where from, so I'm hoping someone might be able to advise me. It's our only car so I can't really just pull off the existing one and have a look!

Cheers!
Jeff (Melbourne south-east)

 

[seasink]

It's a copper crush washer. From memory 15mm internal diam. I get the Purflux filter and the right washer from EAI. They aren't expensive. Mine get here the same day in their trade van. French Purflux filters are easily the best in these cars in the view of most of our members.

One good feature of this car is there is no huge fiddly air smoothing undertray to remove. There is a small tray under the crank pulley end to take off, but that is a doddle.

When you do the filter, first unclip and remove the air intake and resonator bits. Always use a socket to undo the plastic filter housing - it has a tight O ring seal and will resist. Never use a wrench that grips the plastic as it's thin. Put a rag around the housing before lifting the filter out, as it will likely spill some. When replacing the filter ALWAYS oil the new O ring thoroughly, or it will deform and the filter will seriously leak.

One problem is getting the car up on ramps. Most short ramps will foul the bumper/mudguard area. My solution is to put a 50 mm thick piece of timber offcut I snatched from a building site in front of the ramps. The 50mm pre-lift does the trick.

If a DS3 doesn't put a smile on your face, you are hard to please. Be warned, they can become a licence hazard.

One thing I find regularly is that other drivers don't recognise the little car, or its speed and acceleration. The car behind will move lane at traffic lights to burn you off, because little unknown cars must be dawdlers. They have no hope. Watch out for light speed cameras if this happens - it's easy to pass the limit.

PS Since it's new to you, check the air filter and cabin filter too. The cabin filter is behind a panel on the bulkhead, drivers side. It is deep inside over the AC unit intake. If the coolant hasn't been changed by now, it is worth doing. This is a job you'll need further instructions for, though I have posted the method here.

 

[seasink]

Did I read right? It's a cabriolet? These are rather rare. The standard DSport has quite a decent boot.

If the car still has the anti-theft wheel bolts, YOU MUST ARRANGE TO GET RID OF THEM. These things fill the forum with endless grief. Get 4 standard bolts instead.

 

[ds3]

seasink — thanks for all your help, much appreciated! We'll go through your notes again as we do it I've bought a 27mm socket so we can tension the filter.

Had to laugh a little at your descriptions of living with the ds3; things only another owner would have experienced I too have seen other cars at the traffic lights assume we would hold them up and pull into another lane; I can only imagine their surprise when they eat our dust haha. And yes, it's the convertible — very impressed with the design, but the boot is its biggest downside for sure. It's kind of large, but you have to feed it all through such a small hole!

I gave EAI a call and they do have the filter (P1109Z1 https://www.eai.net.au/product/p1109z1/) but they said the washer is out of stock, ETA a month or so. Funny thing is they said it's not a crush washer, but a flat washer: "16x24-15", the type with a rubber insert. I'm a little unsure, since yours is a crush washer, and the part number he gave me (p016454 at https://www.eai.net.au/product/p016454/) showed up randomly on eBay as being for a ds3 diesel not the THP155.

Would I be stupid to put one of these on this time around? https://www.repco.com.au/parts-serv...washer-16mm-price-per-unit-rsp2054/p/A9278437

 

[seasink]

You will need a wrench extension for the socket as it's a fair way down. The intake air bits unclip and lift out, with a single press in fixing on top. Watch carefully what slides in what - it's a trap otherwise.

My car is older than yours and I've always used washers like the Repco ones. The web page linked says they are for the EW10 engine. Yours is from the EP family. I buy more bits than some people so EAI Sydney have the cars I service recorded. They have never sent me a washer like the one you describe. It's good to see that 15mm bore is correct though.

The filter part number meant nothing to me, but the linked page shows it is a Purflux L358A, which is the one. The filter media is tightly folded in chevrons to increase surface area (purely a coincidence).

The thing about the car is that it isn't lairy like so many quick manoeuvrable cars. The giveaway is the rubber band tyre.

If you are a Top Gear fan, watch the idiots in Lucca (The DS3 Racing is a factory hotted DSport. This one is lairy! ).

 

[seasink]

I meant to add this--
Direct injection engines like this one accumulate ultra-hard burnt ash on the inlet ports and valves. Eventually performance drops and misfires occur. Cleaning is a pig. Older engines injected petrol in front of the ports, which washed it away.

PSA has now advised use of C2 grade low ash oil, as is already spec'd for HDI engines. Total, Penrite and Shell are all available. This is to postpone the inevitable.

 

[ds3]

All done In the end, the plastic bits in front of the battery were the biggest hassle to remove, but once you know how it should be pretty easy next time, I think. There's certainly a lot of plastic parts under the bonnet! Overall I was pleasantly surprised by how few of them have been damaged over the past 11 years. Either our car has been well cared for, or they are stronger than they feel

The rest of the oil filter remove & refit job is great on this, so much easier access than other cars I've owned (most recently various Alfa 166/156 with the V6 which leave very little room for access). The 27mm filter housing and cartridge design seems so much nicer than the metal-cased oil filters I'm used to — I loved being able to torque it correctly. Although I guess someone heavy handed could easily damage the cap being plastic?

One thing that worries me is that I put C3 oil in it (Penrite ENVIRO+ C3 5W-30) which I had already purchased, based on various research online. When you say "PSA has now advised use of C2" I hope that means they previously advised C3?

edit: Oh and also, what's with the ridiculous dipstick design?! That thing is impossible to read with hot oil, and nearly impossible with cold

 

[seasink]

Watch carefully what slides in what

Now you know what I meant. Fortunately next time will be easier. Making each bit just pull off was a good idea.

There's nothing wrong with using C3. It is another version of low ash, with improved shear ability if you should drive "vigorously". It exceeds PSA requirements.

If you think the all metal dipstick is crook, have a look at the plastic monstrosity fitted to diesels. The ends break off and lie in the sump. You could try painting the stick tip, or lie the tip on a bit of toilet paper which shows the oil. One thing to watch - the dipstick bends about and passes too close to the plastic timing chain guide. If you feel resistance don't force it. Jiggle it until it is free.

Most of the plastic is pretty tough. The boosted air intake parts have to be rigid.

 

[ds3]

Thanks again for your advice above, particularly about the plastic fittings. I thought it was quite ingeniously designed; being clipped or even just pushed together seems entirely sufficient for the purpose. Thanks also for relieving my concerns about the C3 oil, much appreciated. I like your suggestions on reading the dipstick — will give it a go tomorrow.