Buying a C4 VTS....any tips?
- Thread starter jr20516v
- Start date
They were pretty good cars, but became slow sellers. So, there can be an appreciable difference between the build (look in the boot) and compliance dates.
The usual used car checks apply and there are few nasty surprises other than the cost of new wipers if you are used to the $5 refill variety. One particularly costly issue (if you decide it MUST work!) is failure of the seat heaters as the pad is embedded in the foam/trim sandwich. You can sometimes repair the wire at the bottom by digging in to find the break. At the other end of the cost scale, a knock at the back over bumps may simply be the bump stop on the shock absorber falling down.
It will probably have HID headlamps, which are excellent, but also expensive to replace. Check they operate and are look to be the correct white with a blue hue. Pinkish suggests old and failing.
You have the common to many PSA models Comm unit to check. Failure to cancel after a turn suggests it's on it's way out.
ABS/Airbag faults are usually due to either a bad brake switch or a break in the wire at a seatbelt buckle.
Make sure the cruise control works. It's a separate switch assembly on the steering hub. With earlier models, the thumbwheel contacts can sometimes corrode, so you run it back and forward 30 times, which might correct the problem for free.
The cooling system can be a slightly weak point. Look for signs of leakage and check the water pump for leakage and noise. Some people will disconnect the heater core to fix leakage that is most likely due to two o-rings. If it's at 111K, the pump is likely to have been replaced with a timing belt job, but the original plastic bodied pump didn't last as well as the aluminium variety.
If the glass roof is still in one piece (look for cracks), it may now stay that way, but you need to ensure your insurance will cover the glass roof replacement as they cost thousands.
Look down the sides of the windscreen for little bubbles, which can suggest it is beginning to delaminate. It may stay like that for a long time, but it can be a bargaining point. Be aware that the bottom of the screen is slightly overhanging, so don't lean on it. The scuttle air intake also tends to slip off the bottom of the windscreen and should not be left like that.
The usual used car checks apply and there are few nasty surprises other than the cost of new wipers if you are used to the $5 refill variety. One particularly costly issue (if you decide it MUST work!) is failure of the seat heaters as the pad is embedded in the foam/trim sandwich. You can sometimes repair the wire at the bottom by digging in to find the break. At the other end of the cost scale, a knock at the back over bumps may simply be the bump stop on the shock absorber falling down.
It will probably have HID headlamps, which are excellent, but also expensive to replace. Check they operate and are look to be the correct white with a blue hue. Pinkish suggests old and failing.
You have the common to many PSA models Comm unit to check. Failure to cancel after a turn suggests it's on it's way out.
ABS/Airbag faults are usually due to either a bad brake switch or a break in the wire at a seatbelt buckle.
Make sure the cruise control works. It's a separate switch assembly on the steering hub. With earlier models, the thumbwheel contacts can sometimes corrode, so you run it back and forward 30 times, which might correct the problem for free.
The cooling system can be a slightly weak point. Look for signs of leakage and check the water pump for leakage and noise. Some people will disconnect the heater core to fix leakage that is most likely due to two o-rings. If it's at 111K, the pump is likely to have been replaced with a timing belt job, but the original plastic bodied pump didn't last as well as the aluminium variety.
If the glass roof is still in one piece (look for cracks), it may now stay that way, but you need to ensure your insurance will cover the glass roof replacement as they cost thousands.
Look down the sides of the windscreen for little bubbles, which can suggest it is beginning to delaminate. It may stay like that for a long time, but it can be a bargaining point. Be aware that the bottom of the screen is slightly overhanging, so don't lean on it. The scuttle air intake also tends to slip off the bottom of the windscreen and should not be left like that.
Great tips there David....much appreciated :}
I got a bit worried when the seller immediately dropped the price from $7.5k to $5.750 to get a sale. Mmmmm. ;]
It is in very good condition however it may be too good to be true at that price if you know what i mean
I got a bit worried when the seller immediately dropped the price from $7.5k to $5.750 to get a sale. Mmmmm. ;]
It is in very good condition however it may be too good to be true at that price if you know what i mean
There could be many reasons for a cut-price sale from a seriously defective car, something fishy in the title/history to simply needing a prompt sale. Do the appropriate checks for theft, w/off, debts etc. and perhaps have a look at it if it still seems OK. If you are worried about some aspect of the car either walk away or have it inspected. Could it be just about due for tyres, brakes, rego, timing belt, clutch plus a major service??? You might win the Quinella or Trifecta!
Check the UK C4owners forum for more info. I still think they are one of the best looking modern Citroën's so far.
Nah !! I have purchased many scores of cars over the years so mostly know all the tricks. Everything seems in order with the car...good tyres etc etc however i cant really check the Comms 2000 as it may play up after many weeks [My Berlingo can go weeks without a hiccup ] and not on the test drive day.
It is not a private sale....it is a Mercedes dealer.
There is Series I and II versions, but I don't think the Series II VTS was ever sold here.
The 2 door can have problems with the rear hatch wiring harness effecting the locking etc yet it could even have been replaced by now? Otherwise the specific wiper blades can be sourced via eBay very reasonably.
Which could mean they took it as a trade for more than any wholesaler would offer and thought they'd have a go themselves, but have now decided to quit it. It's probably OK, just not the sort of car that dealer wants to keep. Friends bought one new and it's turned out to be an excellent car for them ... well apart from the depreciation aspect!
C4 vts
I have a 2007, 1st Reg 2/09 VTS, bought @ 40k, now 65, great car, no problem, joy to drive. At that time I saw them for 11 up to 15k for 50-105K!! Mine had been traded at a Toyota dealer, they could not get rid of it, asking 13500 originally, I paid 9k. All the opp'l extras too. V poor resale, nobody knows what they are. I did. Happy man. Good luck, 110k looks a bit old , there's one on Gumtree for 10k, only 50km. Worth 7.5 I reckon.
I have a 2007, 1st Reg 2/09 VTS, bought @ 40k, now 65, great car, no problem, joy to drive. At that time I saw them for 11 up to 15k for 50-105K!! Mine had been traded at a Toyota dealer, they could not get rid of it, asking 13500 originally, I paid 9k. All the opp'l extras too. V poor resale, nobody knows what they are. I did. Happy man. Good luck, 110k looks a bit old , there's one on Gumtree for 10k, only 50km. Worth 7.5 I reckon.
Exactly what i was thinking too David.
Any answer to post #12 guys ? Unfortunately saying "every 4 years" is not much help when the car is 7 years old........either its 1 year shy of its next belt change ....OR its bloody 3 years over due.
Any answer to post #12 guys ? Unfortunately saying "every 4 years" is not much help when the car is 7 years old........either its 1 year shy of its next belt change ....OR its bloody 3 years over due.
I don't know the standard change interval. Perhaps, refer to the handbook or check with the local dealer? Peugeot often specify a longer period compared to Citroen, even for the same engine. Can you check the history? It will likely have had a water pump (with belt and tensioner) during the warranty period or soon after if the owner was 'lucky' enough to have had one that lasted that long. You could start the count from then if it appears never to have had a timing belt changed otherwise. Don't forget the car may not have been sold in 2007 although it might have been built then.
Where on earth did you find the 105k interval? That is odd.
The Peugeot GTi180 (same motor) has a 80k/4yr interval, according to Peugeot Australia. They choose to use the "severe conditions" schedule.
I have a feeling Citroën Australia might specify 100k/4yrs for all timing belts, but I'm not sure on that one.
The Peugeot GTi180 (same motor) has a 80k/4yr interval, according to Peugeot Australia. They choose to use the "severe conditions" schedule.
I have a feeling Citroën Australia might specify 100k/4yrs for all timing belts, but I'm not sure on that one.