Another R17 owner planning to upgrade

Final large panel that needed stripping. Couple of small pin dings which will fill with high build primer.
Those little brass badge holders I left in there. They are just so brittle and have been sanded many times before. Two now missing as another just fell apart.
If anyone knows where to get them or an alternative!! Similar looking to rivet heads without the steel shaft.

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Awesome John. Sorry, no idea about those little devices - I can't quite picture what you mean?
 
I think I might have found them.
they don't look very brass??

I'm loving and hating your posts knowing what is lurking under an R17/R15.
That's a shit-ton of work short of replacing the axe handle and head.

Just thinking for mere mortals as myself, treating and filling with resin might be an alternative.
 
they don't look very brass??

I'm loving and hating your posts knowing what is lurking under an R17/R15.
That's a shit-ton of work short of replacing the axe handle and head.

Just thinking for mere mortals as myself, treating and filling with resin might be an alternative.
I thought they were white plastic or something similar
 
Mine are brass. But corrosion and sanding has got a few. There was also stainless ones available. I just have to measure the holes before ordering.
 
I found these John, not sure if they are the right size.


Edit I attached the wrong link John, I have now attached the correct link.
 
Thanks COL. Not sure that's quite the product i'm after

Treating rust doesn't work in my opinion, it can't penetrate deep.
If you treat some and come back to it the grinder later, it still has the ginger rust dust flying every where. It has no strength either like the metal it was. Sure, you can paint all this fancy modern stuff that sticks but....
Media blasting sorts it out pretty well.
Water & moisture ingress - there's no stopping it.
But no matter, as long as you can drive it and enjoy, metal, rust or resin.
 
Thanks COL. Not sure that's quite the product i'm after

Treating rust doesn't work in my opinion, it can't penetrate deep.
If you treat some and come back to it the grinder later, it still has the ginger rust dust flying every where. It has no strength either like the metal it was. Sure, you can paint all this fancy modern stuff that sticks but....
Media blasting sorts it out pretty well.
Water & moisture ingress - there's no stopping it.
But no matter, as long as you can drive it and enjoy, metal, rust or resin.
I posted the wrong link John, I have corrected the link
 
Thanks COL. Not sure that's quite the product i'm after

Treating rust doesn't work in my opinion, it can't penetrate deep.
If you treat some and come back to it the grinder later, it still has the ginger rust dust flying every where. It has no strength either like the metal it was. Sure, you can paint all this fancy modern stuff that sticks but....
Media blasting sorts it out pretty well.
Water & moisture ingress - there's no stopping it.
But no matter, as long as you can drive it and enjoy, metal, rust or resin.
I think that's mostly true - oxygen being an essential too. unless you unpick the door outers (which I won't do on the 4CV or R8) I reckon the best for seams still is fishoil, based on no rust re-emergence in decades AND, it must be said, keeping the car garaged on a concrete floor. Perth is not particularly dry by desert standards and the less water goes on the car the better.

Most of the surface treatments might be correct chemically, but it takes a big application to penetrate bulk rust and if they react first, they seal in the very rust you are trying to control. When fishoil, which does not react, comes out of a door seam having been flooded in from the inside, I reckon it is pretty well penetrated - I just hate seeing those rust bubbles under paint! that sealing keeps the oxygen out. Best done in mid-summer of course. Very unfair on cats, who spend time trying to find the source of the delicious smell.
 
I think that's mostly true - oxygen being an essential too. unless you unpick the door outers (which I won't do on the 4CV or R8) I reckon the best for seams still is fishoil, based on no rust re-emergence in decades AND, it must be said, keeping the car garaged on a concrete floor. Perth is not particularly dry by desert standards and the less water goes on the car the better.

Most of the surface treatments might be correct chemically, but it takes a big application to penetrate bulk rust and if they react first, they seal in the very rust you are trying to control. When fishoil, which does not react, comes out of a door seam having been flooded in from the inside, I reckon it is pretty well penetrated - I just hate seeing those rust bubbles under paint! that sealing keeps the oxygen out. Best done in mid-summer of course. Very unfair on cats, who spend time trying to find the source of the delicious smell.
Absolutely, fish oil everywhere, and where rust bubbles exist they get pricked and syringed full of fish oil.
Stops rust in its tracks.

Even the 'deodorised' stinks, so I prepare a change of clothes on a warm day to get it soaked in good.

The only pain is you need to clean it off your body work or it will collect dust and dirt. Its much harder to clean when its dried.

I was thinking molasses bath to remove the rust and resin to fill these untreated voids as opposed to picking it all apart.

Nothing will be as thorough as what is being done here.
 
Absolutely, fish oil everywhere, and where rust bubbles exist they get pricked and syringed full of fish oil.
Stops rust in its tracks.

Even the 'deodorised' stinks, so I prepare a change of clothes on a warm day to get it soaked in good.

The only pain is you need to clean it off your body work or it will collect dust and dirt. Its much harder to clean when its dried.

I was thinking molasses bath to remove the rust and resin to fill these untreated voids as opposed to picking it all apart.

Nothing will be as thorough as what is being done here.
I preferred it before they deodorised it. :)
 
I went for these in the end. Plastic inserts to suit 4mm holes.
I figured that the steel ones will be a pain to get the badge out if needed and could damage the paint.
The seller swapped the larger ones for a full set of the smaller 4mm
 
I went for these in the end. Plastic inserts to suit 4mm holes.
I figured that the steel ones will be a pain to get the badge out if needed and could damage the paint.
The seller swapped the larger ones for a full set of the smaller 4mm
Neat.
 
I went for these in the end. Plastic inserts to suit 4mm holes.
I figured that the steel ones will be a pain to get the badge out if needed and could damage the paint.
The seller swapped the larger ones for a full set of the smaller 4mm
Hmmmmm, dunno.
Maybe if it was stabilised plastic, recon they're going to suffer and get brittle.
Ta ta badge.....
Time will tell.
 
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