R10 steering wheel position

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c.lees

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Whilst putting some things back together it turns out my steering wheel is offser towards the middle of the car about 15 - 20mm. I'm guessing this isn't normal?

I do have a modified rack with a 9T pinion gear but it only moved it around 1 - 2 mm. There seems to be a lack of adjustment in the rack position.

Is there a fix for this other then modifying the rack mounts?
 
Is the rack in the central position of its travel(usually spring in rack housing around rack will centralise rack).if not sure count turns lock to lock then go half way,that should be centre of rack then adjust tie rods in one side and out the other side an equal amount to bring your wheels to a more parallel position which should centralise steering wheel.could use a reference point off body to wheel each side to check for same distances when steering in straight ahead position.all the while remembering to keep toe in the same if already set…jim
 
Steering wheel column can only mount in one position on underside of dash and go through one hole in the floor. Unless you have a collapsible column, but the top can only mount in one position unless top column mount has been modified ???

Column is not middle of seat , is about 15-20mm to the center of car.

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I've checked it against a stock column on the mount holes in the bottom of the dash. This would put the column right between the Speedo and tacho?

I have a collapsible column which is straight, ie no universal joint. With my column straight the centre line is left of the stock config. What I'll do is put a stock column in with a stock rack and see where it sits.

It just doesn't look right. I'm guessing in the standard config the wheel is parallel to the dash?
 
dacia4x4 said:
Is the rack in the central position of its travel(usually spring in rack housing around rack will centralise rack).if not sure count turns lock to lock then go half way,that should be centre of rack then adjust tie rods in one side and out the other side an equal amount to bring your wheels to a more parallel position which should centralise steering wheel.could use a reference point off body to wheel each side to check for same distances when steering in straight ahead position.all the while remembering to keep toe in the same if already set…jim
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For the record, my understanding of the modification to the rack into take the "quick" pinion is that the self-centering springs are removed. In my view, this is a major demerit of this path to "quick" steering instead of the use of a steering "quickener" in-shaft reduction gearbox.
 
A quicker would have been harder to do with a collapsible column in terms of available space.

Put a stock column in with a stock rack and it turns out the wheel is not square with the car. I'm guessing this is normal.

My solution is to sneak the rack over to the right a touch. I can do this by moving the bottom bolt on the rack brackets to the pivot over. I can move it around 10mm which will give 15mm where the rack bolts on. That should be enough.
 
What are the downside of an off centre steering rack? Uneven tie rods.
 
Tie rods and toe setting should remain the same,difference would be increased turning one way (left I would say if rack moved to right)and reduced turning(lock) to right.it all depends whether you can turn the right rack eye in end of rack the distance you want to move the rack housing across to the right.
 
c.lees said:
What are the downside of an off centre steering rack? Uneven tie rods.
Click to expand...
dacia4x4 said:
Tie rods and toe setting should remain the same,difference would be increased turning one way (left I would say if rack moved to right)and reduced turning(lock) to right.it all depends whether you can turn the right rack eye in end of rack the distance you want to move the rack housing across to the right.
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If the rack is offset to the right, you would need to wind in the toe adjustment on the right and wind out the to adjustment on the left. As long as there is enough thread inside the rack ends and you can get the toe adjustment within specs, I can't really see a problem.

You would need to make sure that the rack is centred within its housing before adjustments are made, otherwise you will have yo will have uneven right and left locks as Jim has alluded to.

I would install the rack and steering column and connect everything up except the tie rods. Make sure that the rack will move the same amount in both directions when the wheel is turned to full lock. When this has been achieved connect up the tie rods and adjust the left and right toes to the required spec. Then make sure that the tyres do not touch on the body work when on full lock.

Interesting discussion, no doubt you will sort this out Christian, will just take a bit of time.
 
The better option would be to use two u joints, issue is space as one would need to be under the floor, the other inside. In order to get one of them in I'd need one that has a rag joint flange or even better the Renault spline. Has anyone ever found one? 15mm 22 spline.

The flange type does exist but are not cheap. Or a flange with a 3/4 DD shaft welded on. I could potentially machine a flange with a DD shaft from solid steel. Not sure of the legality.
 
I'm assuming that the R10 steering column is in one piece, I was wondering if parts of an R12 steering column could be adapted to fit. The reasons why I suggest this is the spine for the steering wheel is the for the R10 & R12. The bottom of the steering column is the same where the steering column bolts to the flex joint. The R12 steering column has a universal joint in the middle that may give enough movement to sort out your alignment issue. Just putting my idea out there for discussion.
 
30odd years ago I did a Renault dauphine 1.4 conversion in my then workshop.i used Peugeot 504 late model(78 on)lower steering column and flector pad onto dauphine rack then upper steering column section which had universal in it which allowed a little side movement to align column with instrument panel,504/wiper switches as well used.just a thought.
 
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c.lees said:
A quicker would have been harder to do with a collapsible column in terms of available space.

Put a stock column in with a stock rack and it turns out the wheel is not square with the car. I'm guessing this is normal.

My solution is to sneak the rack over to the right a touch. I can do this by moving the bottom bolt on the rack brackets to the pivot over. I can move it around 10mm which will give 15mm where the rack bolts on. That should be enough.
Click to expand...
Just quickly: my two "quickener" installations (R8 & 4CVG) have a UJ in the shaft. The rack used is standard R10.
 
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