Roadworthy Certificates
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  1. #1
    Tadpole
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    Default Roadworthy Certificates

    Hi Everybody,
    I'm about to put my 504 up for sale and was wondering whether it would be considered bad form if I got a RWC only after there was some interest in the vehicle. I'm certain that it would pass an inspection, it's just that I'm not willing to pay for the certificate if it expires and I still have not sold my car.

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  2. #2
    Member pugagain's Avatar
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    Not only good form, but the most sensible thing to do. They only last about a month, so to get one before someone is interested just becomes expensive. It is something that most buyers will have no problem with.
    Andy

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  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger! DjB8V's Avatar
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    You could get the check done and then go from there.


    Chris

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger! Binky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pugagain View Post
    Not only good form, but the most sensible thing to do. They only last about a month, so to get one before someone is interested just becomes expensive. It is something that most buyers will have no problem with.
    Agreed. That's standard procedure for privately sold classic or older cars. The only catch is if something you don't expect comes up at inspection and you advertise it as being sold with a RWC, then once you have a buyer, you need that piece of paper. If it suddenly needs thousands of dollars spent, then you have a dodgy mechanic. If you *think* it's roadworthy, but might need a couple of things (e.g. wiper blades, or oil leaks) then it's only fair that you fix these prior to handing over the keys.

  5. #5
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AstonVillaForMe View Post
    Hi Everybody,
    I'm about to put my 504 up for sale and was wondering whether it would be considered bad form if I got a RWC only after there was some interest in the vehicle. I'm certain that it would pass an inspection, it's just that I'm not willing to pay for the certificate if it expires and I still have not sold my car.
    I guess it depends if you are offering the car "with a RWC". If this is the case it doesn't matter when you get the RWC because you will be liable to pay for it anyway.

    Personally I'd get a precheck done to confirm that the car will pass without too much expense, otherwise you could go backwards after the car is sold.

    If it's too expensive to get a RWC return the plates and cash in the insurance and sell unregistered.

    The obligation to send the transfer and get the RWC is with the seller. So if the transfer is not done and you let the car go the purchaser you are still liable for parking/speeding fines.
    Departed the Aussie Frogs Community 14 September 2018.

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  6. #6
    JBN
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    I am in the process of helping a friend sell a 1990 BMW 525. In the first instance we need a buyer. Then, if need be, a RWC. They only cost $30 or so and thats about all they are worth. Apart from the obvious, they are fairly useless. Even the braking test can be done by shaking the box.

    I have never received one when I have bought a car, nor did I ever ask for one. If the car is registered, thats all that matters. My decision to buy a car is how it feels to me after a test drive. Whether all the lights work or the state of the tyres or wiper blades are not factors that influence my decision, only factors that may be used to bring the price down.

    As the Roman Used Chariot dealer Titus A Clam used to say - caveat emptor.

    John

  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBN View Post
    I am in the process of helping a friend sell a 1990 BMW 525. In the first instance we need a buyer. Then, if need be, a RWC. They only cost $30 or so and thats about all they are worth. Apart from the obvious, they are fairly useless. Even the braking test can be done by shaking the box.

    I have never received one when I have bought a car, nor did I ever ask for one. If the car is registered, thats all that matters. My decision to buy a car is how it feels to me after a test drive. Whether all the lights work or the state of the tyres or wiper blades are not factors that influence my decision, only factors that may be used to bring the price down.

    As the Roman Used Chariot dealer Titus A Clam used to say - caveat emptor.

    John
    John
    I read into the above that NSW does not require a RWC for sale of a registered vehicle. In Vic a new owner cannot take over the registration of the vehicle unless the car is deemed to be roadworthy. As we do not have yearly inpsections (pink/green/purple/whatever slips) do not happen and this is the only way that the gov. has a chance to 'ensure' that vehicles which are traded meet a certain standard. You don't have to scratch very deep to find that there are 'different' levels of RWC -depending on who you know and what you intend to do with the car.
    As for the OT I'd be doing as others have suggested -have it checked over so that you know where it is deficient.
    Those people that say I know - generally don't.

  8. #8
    Tadpole
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    Thanks very much everyone. Expect to see my car on the market soon.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBN View Post
    I am in the process of helping a friend sell a 1990 BMW 525. In the first instance we need a buyer. Then, if need be, a RWC. They only cost $30 or so and thats about all they are worth. Apart from the obvious, they are fairly useless. Even the braking test can be done by shaking the box.

    I have never received one when I have bought a car, nor did I ever ask for one. If the car is registered, thats all that matters. My decision to buy a car is how it feels to me after a test drive. Whether all the lights work or the state of the tyres or wiper blades are not factors that influence my decision, only factors that may be used to bring the price down.

    As the Roman Used Chariot dealer Titus A Clam used to say - caveat emptor.

    John
    Only $30.00 or so!! Cheap !!.

    In Tassie, we aren't required to have a RWC unless a car is to be reregistered! It cost at least $65.00 but we do have a free reinspection and it lasts a month. Very much Caveat Emptor buying a used car over here!
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