Removing front end rattles; Pug & Cit
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  1. #1
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
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    Removing front end rattles; Pug & Cit

    Here's something that might save you both money and sanity :p
    I eventually got shamed into getting rid of the front end clunks in the 16V that had everyone convinced it was in fact a pop corn machine on wheels
    When little old ladies keep asking "Wot's wrong with yer car???" you know it's time for action
    Did the usual check list; brake pads - check; OK
    Movement in drop links on sway bar - check: OK.
    Ohoh!! here we go; big problems - I think to myself
    Check upper & lower, control arms, ball joints, tie rod ends, pipes, cables, cross member; all checked out OK. Put suspension up; down, in the normal and high settings; I jumped the front up & down, kicked wheels, pulled, pushed, swung off top & bottom with handbrake on & off, used jacks to take the weight off and iron bars to put load on and guess what? Not a sound!!!!
    Decided that I'd start at the drop links anyway so I removed the RHS one first. Looked OK but was a bit tight I thought, so I removed the dust cover to have a decent look. The grease was black and obviously water contaminated so I cleaned up, smacked the bottom joint from behind with a ball pein hammer a couple of times and it suddenly freed up. Took the dust cover from the top one and did the same thing followed by a tapping around where the ball is retained in the drop arm (which I think Bob Smith has recommended in the past) regreased both before refitting the dust covers and refitted to the car. Noise gone.
    I have suspicions that these things wear, grease becomes moisture contaminated, and then bind inside the ball housing thereby causing a cracking sound as they move, which duplicates the sound of loose brake pads we all know and learn to live with on BX's but to a louder degree.
    The big problem is that the noise cannot be created with the car stationary as it depends on the wheel moving up and down rather than the car, so movement is a necessary factor.
    Best news is that it only takes half hour to do and apart from the fact that you no longer make heads turn when you drive down even a smooth street, there is an instant improvement in ride and handling due to the smoother operation of the drop links to the sway bar.

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    Alan S


    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  2. #2
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Yeah,

    I think this is a very common problem with BX's (going by the BX yahoo groups it is anyway).

    I'm not to concerned, to hear it over the dash **RATTLES**, they'd have to be extremely noisy. Yes the dash is LOUD, as is the demister fan when it decides to start squeaking (that really drives me nuts ) Ang doesn't like me driving the car as I spend more time swearing at all the rattles & pushing on the crached dash bits under the windscreen trying in vain to shut them up than I do watching the road

    Man those rattles drive me insane, I need to to get a dash mat to put over the broken trim. With the mat on them they shouldn't be able to rattle! Where do you get dash mats though for these cars???

    seeya,
    Shane L.
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  3. #3
    1000+ Posts Bruce H's Avatar
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    Series 2 BX dashes are ultra simple to dash-mat, any half-competent upholsterer should be able to whip up one. Only problem is method of attachment - used to use a couple of bent paper clips on the one we'd fitted to mum's car when new.
    But frankly, I doubt that'll stop your dash rattles - I've had them in BXs that haven't had cracked dashes. Problem is that all that plastic mainly hangs off just two bolts.
    Used to curse my old BX coz the only solution also didn't work - and I'm sure you'd have a working radio!
    Bruce H

    Now 99 Xantia SX x2; 96 Xantia SX; 76 GS Club Estate x2; 76 GS Club; 74 GS Club; 88 VW T3 Reimo
    Before: AX Gti; BX 19TRi Estate; CX 2200 Super & Pallas; CX2400 Pallas; CX 2400ie Prestige auto; DS3 DStyle; GS Pallas; GSA Club; Xantia Image Estate; Xantia Exclusive; Xsara VTR R4; 1.4 Special Estate; Virage; R16TS

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  4. #4
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    I have just had my drop links replaced for a cool fee, only to drive it home, and it to clunk on the first bloody bump. I have a new set of shocks at home, and will be fitting them very soon. will update about this then.

    But, The car had had a knock in the front since i brought the car (mar 99). I haven't been able to get rid of it. .. sigh

  5. #5
    bob
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    Had a 505 like that. Crashes, real loud sometimes, for ages, which defied new shockers, new bushes in every hole, new tie rod ends.....

    You would have thought that the fool that did the shocks for me would have told me that the rubber boots were stuffed. There's a large heavy steel "washer" in the boot moulding that was jumping around and creating mischief with the spring.

    After months and months, ten minutes with the silastic caulking gun - no more noises.

    Bob

  6. #6
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
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    Can ad a bit to my above posting which should interest all BX and Pug owners. As I said in the original post, it did make a sizeable difference doing the drop links but I still had a couple of annoying sounds coming from the under body region. Had a suspicion so took it to the local exhaust guy who is also a speedway driver/mechanic, hence is more amiable to suggestions about the cause of strange noises and things.
    Up on the hoist and got into the spring loaded mounts at the flange where the exhaust manifold bolts on to the pipe. Removed exhaust system from this point back, supported the catalytic converter on a jack, cleaned up where the bolts/springs were, and lubed with high temperature/copper grease and all noises gone.
    Moral of the story is if the noise is more of a creaking cracking sound, don't forget the exhaust flange. The car is the most rattle free it has been since I bought it - magic :p
    I had the noise of an harmonic balance described to me and this was it. It was squealing when I started the motor as well as when I stopped it. It squealed as the hydraulics were pumping up so you would have to think it was associated with the initial load on the pulley at start up. bloody thing!!!

    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  7. #7
    2000+ Brad's Avatar
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    Hmm, is this sonud really noticeable when you are coasting VERY slowly. I have that type of noise and was looking into getting it fixed. So you say its not too hard? If I took your 1st post to my mech would he understand what ur on about cause I dont have the darndest?
    B to the R to the A from the D
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  8. #8
    Gone Fishin' Ray Bell's Avatar
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    Oh yes, he'd understand it all right... and probably say "No, it's more than that! Leave the car for a week and I'll get the parts in and fix it..."

    And charge $680 for the job....

    I have a clanging sound in my front end (504 Familiale) which I am sure is the Monroe insert not clamped in properly... have to make up a washer and screw it in...

  9. #9
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
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    Phasis,

    If you can hang in with the noise until I get my website organised, I intend doing a photographic record of the job and putting it in there amongst a few other things.
    Standard practice overseas with the service guys there is as Ray says to start fitting new drop links and all sorts of things and some will charge about and more than the figure Ray quoted.
    The guy I gave credit for coming up with this, Bob Smith, subsequently corrected me, that it wasn't his system but in fact Anders Jensen from Denmark. Bob apparently used it many thousands of klms ago after having a drop link replacement job done previously. Seems this way works better and lasts longer than the expensive option. When I get the pics of it you'll have no problems doing it yourself. It's not much harder than changing a flat tyre.

    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

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