re: 505 buying, advice....
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  1. #1
    1000+ Posts dino's Avatar
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    re: 505 buying, advice....

    my wife is about to get her licence and i would like to buy her a cheap reliable car....i just lost my job (autobarn finally closed down)so i m not what you would call LOADED....i was really looking at getting an old volvo but think the 505 would be easier to drive and a little bit more pleasurable....anyway...i saw one today at a yard and i thought i d have a look: its an 81 mod 505, silver, interior is good, body is very straight but the boot has fadded a bit...price on the car was close to 2500 but the guy offered it for 1800 with roadworthy, 1400 without...engine is original and sounds sweet, car is automatic (she s not interested in manuals)i ll be taking it for a drive on friday, just to confirm basics are ok (anybody who makes a big deal about faults on a 1500 dollar car should have their but kicked in)
    what i d like from u guys/gals is opinions on price and if i should look out for anything that can be expensive to repair (i can do most mechanical work myself but am not really interested in trying to fix a dud autobox,...u know what i mean...)anyway i ve driven one many years ago but have no idea on economy or performance figures especially on an 81 model....

    PS....i would love to buy her an old ds for similar money but know thats impossible....would love to hear if u have any other recomendations even if the car model is old (she is like me and loves the older vehicles and not just because we r
    not rich either...)

    pss... by the way the car salesman at this yard is really cool...an older guy...he didn thave a problem with me leaving the car on the yard till its payed for and even said its ok to work on it at the yard as i m planning to surprise her with what will hopefully be a nice and reliable vehicle....

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  2. #2
    Gus
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    (anybody who makes a big deal about faults on a 1500 dollar car should have their but kicked in)
    I think for a 505 GR you should expect a perfectly good car for $1500. My mate bought an 81 GR with less than $800-or-so worth of work needed (he did it himself so it was less than $50) for $300.

    Off the top of my head I can't think of anything too important. Have a peek at the struts under the wheel arches, to check the shocks aren't leaking fluid. If they are, it'll pass rego but they'll need replacing sooner or later.

    If the guy thinks it'll cost $400 for a roadworthy ask him why. If he can't think of any problems, ask him to drop the amount...

    The auto boxes can be, AFAIK, trouble. The torque converters, when high mileage, have a habit of failing at highway speeds. But there's not much you can do about that. As long as it shifts properly, etc., you should be all good.

    Check basic stuff like headlights, reverse lights, blinkers, etc. too. My friend bought a cheap Corona (from a dealer) to drive to Queensland two days ago only to find out the reverse switch on the auto box didn't work. This proved to be expensive. Even if it's something cheap (blinker stalk doesn't work), it's an arguing point for a cheaper 505.

    Check the AC blows cold. Check the heater works.

    Naturally, check for oil leaks.

    Finally, enjoy your new pug (assuming there's nothing wrong with it.) There are many 505s on the market right now, so I wouldn't feel like if you pass this one up you'll never find another (although if it's good, it's good!)

  3. #3
    1000+ Posts Warwick's Avatar
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    How cheap is that really. Bloody cheap. So how far wrong can you go. Where is it? If you are worried get it checked out by Robert at Straightway(where I work)or someone else that knows. Really though, If it drives ok, buy it. For that sort of money if the air-con worked it is a bonus. Making an executive decision, we have a very very tidy 86 wagon (which doesnt blow cold air, yet) which you could have for $3000 plus you pay for RWC and stamp duty and stuff. It's taking up 1 and 1/2 parking spots and I'm sick of it.
    "Now my dream lies shattered like the shards of a broken dream"

  4. #4
    1000+ Posts dino's Avatar
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    thanks for the replys,,,i m not in a terrible hurry to get one but i figure if i dont rush myself i ll find the right vehicle...i ve worked in the industry (detailer and workshop assist.)so
    i m aware of most things to look out for....
    re. EXECUTIVE decision....well if i had 3 grand i d be at your door tomorrow....but i dont so....(thanks for the offer)
    2000 grand i can loose ...anymore i can not...see
    she is just a beginner and i wanted something nice and solid for her ...just in case ...thats why i initially considered the 240 series volvos...they r cheap and totally bulletproof...however...the pugs seem to be in the same price range but would feel nicer to drive as they r a little bit lighter behind the steering wheel and not quite as large (but still reasonably tough)

    ps...found a 240 that was traded in...told the guy i d be in on tuesday (the following day)to put down a deposit...i turn up with 200 (car was 1000)and they tell me the wholersaler came by and picked them all up...shitee...if he had told me the cars were going to be picked up so soon ...i d have had the money for him that afternoon....major disapointment...it was an 82 and in excellent cond....By the way....i think approaching the dealers directly (with cash in hand)and checking what sort of tradeins they have can be a very FRUITFULL way of buying a car on budget...your chice might be limited but there is certinly the prospect of buying a good car on the cheap and possibly even making some money....i ll just keep hunting....

  5. #5
    nJm
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    As an owner of a 1982 silver 505 GR I think I can be of some help. I paid what was in retrospect far too much for my car. I bought it early 2002 for $4000. However this has got me one of the cleanest GR/SRs I've ever seen. Body is almost as new (paint very slightly faded on bonnet), interior same (appart from a very small rip on driver's seat), gearbox fantastic and engine very good.

    I've had some niggling problems and the clutch as worn out, but I'd have to say one thing to really test out is the handbrake. Most early 505s (if not all) rear brake calipers fail with age. Luckily mine have become stuck and won't activate. Basically means the handbrake won't hold the car in neutral. Some however become stuck on (think lots of smoke coming off rear brakes when driving! eek! ). I've heard of getting refurbished calipers from as cheap as $99 each.

    Another thing to check is electrics. The fuse box in the early 505s was pretty crap and can lead to all sorts of electical gremlins. There isn't really that much more. Make sure the auto works ok, the engine doesn't blow too much smoke and it takes bumps well (don't want one someone has used for bush bashing). I looked at Volvo 24x cars for a few seconds (literally) but was told that the Peugeot was as cheap to buy/run, apparently as safe, had a more modern interior and was MUCH MUCH MUCH more fun to drive. I haven't driven a Volvo as yet, but I'm more than willing to believe the advice I was given.
    Nick
    1983 Peugeot 505 GR


    "All of its cars from the 1.1 litre 205 through the ugly duckling 309 to the 2.2 litre 505 GTi had a rightness and a righteousness about them that turned every humdrum drive into a journey. Someone, I once wrote, in the bowels of Peugeot understands handling and how a chassis should feel." - Jeremy Clarkson

  6. #6
    Gus
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    I looked at Volvo 24x cars for a few seconds (literally)
    I have a mate with a 78 Volvo 240. It's a high-spec model with all the extras plus leather seats. I've driven it a few times, so here are my observations:

    Pluses over a 505:
    • <font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Seats (leather) slightly more comfortable (although leather seats are a rare option in a 240.)
    • <font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Bags of room (he's a muso and I've been in the car with 5 other people and a full 4-piece band's gear!)
    • <font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Turning circle (this floored me the first time I did a U-turn in it.)
    • <font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Brakes. ('Nuff said.)
    • <font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Smooth ride
    • <font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Indestructable. I've been in this car when a Celica hit it on the front bumper and literally bounced off. The bumper was barely marked, certainly not damaged. James told me that there are little pistons in them to help absorb impact!!)
    Inferior to a 505:
    • <font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Handling. That smoothness is coupled with a generally boggy feeling going round corners.
    • <font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Interior. Bar the leather seats, the interior was pretty ordinary.
    • <font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Power (although I've been saying I'll come around and help him tune his for ages now!)
    • <font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Fuel economy (although I never got to properly compare figures, cos his is an auto and mine a manual.)
    • <font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Looks (I don't like boxes, what can I say!)
    • <font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Power steering has a lack of feedback which makes you feel like you're floating.
    • <font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Not a particularly comfortably laid out car (wheel, pedal positions.) But maybe I'm too used to 505 layout.
    • <font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial"><font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Rear visibility (not bad, but 505 rear visibility is awesome.)


    <small>[ 10 January 2003, 06:58 PM: Message edited by: Gus ]</small>

  7. #7
    nJm
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    A TP Magna hit the rear bumper on my car a few months back (my car was stationary at the time) and the damage to my 505 was limited to a small section of the chrome stripe came off and a slight graze mark (very hard to see). The Magna needs a new headlight and front indicator assembly and good panel beating and respray of the front quarter panel.

    I've always felt the 505 has very good brakes and a decent turning circle, mind you this is coming from a former Magna driver clown
    Nick
    1983 Peugeot 505 GR


    "All of its cars from the 1.1 litre 205 through the ugly duckling 309 to the 2.2 litre 505 GTi had a rightness and a righteousness about them that turned every humdrum drive into a journey. Someone, I once wrote, in the bowels of Peugeot understands handling and how a chassis should feel." - Jeremy Clarkson

  8. #8
    pur-john, not pew-john! peujohn's Avatar
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    nJm:
    As an owner of a 1982 silver 505 GR I think I can be of some help. I paid what was in retrospect far too much for my car. I bought it early 2002 for $4000. However this has got me one of the cleanest GR/SRs I've ever seen. Body is almost as new (paint very slightly faded on bonnet), interior same (appart from a very small rip on driver's seat), gearbox fantastic and engine very good.
    You haven't necessarily paid too much. I'm about to buy a 504 for $6000. Two or three times what you can get a pretty good example for, but you have to weigh up what you're getting as well as what you aren't getting for the dollars. Nick, if your car has excellent paint, interior and mechanicals you've got a good buy. If you had bought a car for half the price that needed a respray or something else fixed, you'd soon be up to $4000. I was talking to a guy a while back who had owned heaps of different cars, his advice was to buy the best example you can afford. Cheaper in the long run and worth more when you come to reselling.

    John
    John W

    1979 Peugeot 504 GTI 2.2 litre 5 speed - 72 kW at the wheels

    1974 Peugeot 504 TI
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    Previous: 2005 407 HDI manual sedan, 1980 504 GL, 1990 405 Mi16, 1977 504 GL Special, 1984 505 SRD Turbo



  9. #9
    1000+ Posts dino's Avatar
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    OK...i went to test drive the 505 today...like i said i hadn t driven one for about 10 years and that was only a short drive once....what can i say:we live in a sad sad world.. how a 1400 dollar car can drive so nice is absolute credit to the peugeot engineers...i still have to see one more car but my mind is made up IT WILL DEFINITELY BE A PEUGEOT 505....
    FIRSTLY the car was very stable at speed, nice and directional; its a non power steered model so the steering was a touch heavy but much lighter than my 205 although it still felt very directional precise and tight....re. suspension, well its an absolute dream....so nice that i think it beats many bms and mercs of half the age and ten times the price....i d even go as far as saying that it rides better than many contemporary cars (ie coomodores falcons toyotas magnas etc)
    power was nothing extraordinary but could still accelerate away from traffic with ease...and it was surprisingly quiet...interior is ...i must admit...pretty bland....but again there is something apealling about its simplicity....brakes felt good and the hand brake seems to be working fine....
    one fault i did notice quickly is that half the guages dont work...the only thing that seem to be functioning was the speedo....i was very happy with it....
    RE njm and $4000 peugeot 505...I TOTALLY AGREE with peujohn...i was so impressed with the 1400 dollar car that IF I HAD 4000 or 5000 grand i would not have a problem offering you that much for it...i d say 505 owners would be very loyal
    (i think the same apllies to volvo 240 series volvos)
    RE: GUS....i have to say...u ve pretty much hit the nail on the head with your comparison and thats coming from a guy whos owned 2x 244 dl 1x 264 gle 2x 240....
    on the seating and pedals...i must admit i thought the volvo was pretty good but im 6 foot 4
    so that might explin a few things...the interior of the pug was a touch more stylish and it surprisingly felt wider....i think the volvos taller boxy body explains that...
    by the way those leather seats are rare but they did tend to COLLAPSE..u ll find most older 240s have close to collapsed drivers seats; i thought the pug seats felt better than the volvos but they do look very bland...
    now ALL I HAVE TO DO IS GET MY REAR END TO BALLARAT...I HAVENT SPOKEN TO THE OWNERS YET...BUT
    THERE IS NO WAY I NOTGOING TO SEE (IF NOT SOLD) AN
    85 505 gti being advertised in the trading post for 2000 dollars...if this one is gone i ll buy the 1400 dollar car and start repairs...wish me luck

    thanks for the replys

    cheers...

  10. #10
    pur-john, not pew-john! peujohn's Avatar
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    dino:

    BUT HERE IS NO WAY I NOTGOING TO SEE (IF NOT SOLD) AN 85 505 gti being advertised in the trading post for 2000 dollars...if this one is gone i ll buy the 1400 dollar car and start repairs...wish me luck
    A GTi for 2 grand is going to need work... and GTis are not easy to work on. Some of the other contributors to this forum will tell you this. If you're going to buy a 505 and expect it to need repairs, go for a GR. Nice and simple, it looks like an engine under the bonnet, not a maze of plumbing.

    John
    John W

    1979 Peugeot 504 GTI 2.2 litre 5 speed - 72 kW at the wheels

    1974 Peugeot 504 TI
    - now on the road

    2009 Peugeot 407 HDI wagon - family car

    Previous: 2005 407 HDI manual sedan, 1980 504 GL, 1990 405 Mi16, 1977 504 GL Special, 1984 505 SRD Turbo



  11. #11
    nJm
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    Yeah, I agree on that. Another of my friends has just bought a fairly rough 505 GTi Executive (a black one!!!) for $2500. It isn't by any means a bad example but it definately needs work, and a quick look under the bonnet reminded me why I was only looking at GR and SR's when buying a 505. If you're prepared to spend a lot longer doing simple things (eg just replacing the HT leads could take quite a while) then go for it. To work on a GR or SR is quite simple and easy. On the flip side however the GTi feels and looks a bit newer and of course has the benifit of a more powerful engine and 'sports' suspension (well, it is far firmer than a GR).

    If you're going to get a mechanic to do most of the work on it I don't see why a GTi would be a bad idea though.

    Oh yeah, on the interior - it has really grown on me since I first saw a 505. I like the fact that everything is held on with philips head screws wink Makes life easier.

    Cheers
    Nick
    1983 Peugeot 505 GR


    "All of its cars from the 1.1 litre 205 through the ugly duckling 309 to the 2.2 litre 505 GTi had a rightness and a righteousness about them that turned every humdrum drive into a journey. Someone, I once wrote, in the bowels of Peugeot understands handling and how a chassis should feel." - Jeremy Clarkson

  12. #12
    Gus
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    A TP Magna hit the rear bumper on my car a few...
    Oh yeah, 505s are tough. But Volvos are bulletproof. I've had two serious dings in my old 505 (one was a roo at 90, the other a sideways tree at 60.) This Celica hit us doing about 50, diagonally, and it literally bounced hard off the Volvo bumper. I expected to see a broken bumper, but it just wasn't there!

    I've always felt the 505 has very good brakes and a decent turning circle
    Very true, but the Volvo ones are unbelievable. Brakes are something they just do well (look to all the high-performance modded cars with "4-piston Volvo brakes") and the turning circle just wowed me from the beginning. This thing will do easy U-Turns where my 505STI has no choice but a 3-pointer.

    one fault i did notice quickly is that half the guages dont work...the only thing that seem to be functioning was the speedo....
    That's a rarity. The speedo is usually the gauge that dies. Hence, you shouldn't have any trouble getting cheap replacements.

    A GTi for 2 grand is going to need work... and GTis are not easy to work on.
    Being an STI owner who swapped his car to GTI injection himself, I second this statement!

    GTi Executive (a black one!!!) for $2500
    Nice! I'm really jealous! Original black? Black leather seats?

    I always thought glossy black was the best colour on 505s! and $2500! If it has mechanical trouble, ask him if he wants to "trade across" to my blue GTi-d 505! Engine on my car is excellent and the body's pretty good, too.

  13. #13
    nJm
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    It is black with a brown interior. It isn't the yuk brown the GR had but quite a nice one. This car has a leaking sunroof so the roof lining is a bit stained.
    Nick
    1983 Peugeot 505 GR


    "All of its cars from the 1.1 litre 205 through the ugly duckling 309 to the 2.2 litre 505 GTi had a rightness and a righteousness about them that turned every humdrum drive into a journey. Someone, I once wrote, in the bowels of Peugeot understands handling and how a chassis should feel." - Jeremy Clarkson

  14. #14
    Sense Pug307's Avatar
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    Hmmn, 505 vs 240.

    Turning circle of the 240 is absolutely brilliant, 9.8m. Bear in mind that this car was basically as long as a 607, and just under 10" longer than a 505. In spite of that, such a turning circle is only achieved by superminis. Unfortunately, the days of magical Volvo turning circles are gone.

    Solidity. There aren't many cars that have any chance against a 240. One only needs to slam the door, and feel the floor shudder - that's how solid they are. They're very thick & heavy. In spite of this, the car is only as heavy as my 307. The sheer number of 240s still rolling around says a lot about their durability. The real life safety record of them is also superior.

    In all fairness, I don't think a metal bumper vs a glass/plastic lighting assembly is a fair comparison Secondly the angle at which a bumper will hit a front fender will mean the bumper will almost always be better off, and pretty much any fender won't be well off - simple, small area (bumper), high force = high pressure on fender - fender loses, unless it's bloody strong.

    Brakes - for such a safety orientated marque, it's little wonder they tried to get the brakes right. How many 1.6 tonne saloons that will brake from 60mph to 0 in the same distance as a Porsche 911 or Lamborghini Diablo? An S80 will - check Autocar results if you have your doubts.

    I think NVH wise, 505s are better than 240s, and they do look more modern. Later 240s have a timeless quality about them though. In terms of the driving experience, 505s will certainly be more fun. I would have my doubts about the power comparison - I'd have thought that a 240 would be better, certainly auto vs auto - 505s got the 4spd gearbox later than the 240.

    240s are probably easier to work on as well - a cavernous underbonnet area, all logically designed with plenty of space (gone in this era of modern cars). They're a more sensible choice than a 505 But fun wise, with potentially a little more stress here and there, a 505 would probably be better for you.

    Peugeot 307 XS 1.6
    Aussiefrogged in MEL, PER, SYD, BNE & ADL.
    Rendezvous Adelaide 2005

  15. #15
    pur-john, not pew-john! peujohn's Avatar
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    240s are probably easier to work on as well - a cavernous underbonnet area
    Yep... for a project car, my cousin recently bought a 240 with a 350 Chev and Ford 4 speed in it. Heaps of room in the engine bay, you can just about get in there with the engine!

    As it was it was quicker than his Gen III V8 Berlina, now he's warming it up.

    John
    John W

    1979 Peugeot 504 GTI 2.2 litre 5 speed - 72 kW at the wheels

    1974 Peugeot 504 TI
    - now on the road

    2009 Peugeot 407 HDI wagon - family car

    Previous: 2005 407 HDI manual sedan, 1980 504 GL, 1990 405 Mi16, 1977 504 GL Special, 1984 505 SRD Turbo



  16. #16
    pur-john, not pew-john! peujohn's Avatar
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    Back on thread...

    If you're going to get a mechanic to do most of the work on it I don't see why a GTi would be a bad idea though.
    Sure, but Dino is on a limited budget. In his case a GR would be a much safer buy. I definitely wouldn't like to pay a mechanic to make right a cheap GTi.

    John
    John W

    1979 Peugeot 504 GTI 2.2 litre 5 speed - 72 kW at the wheels

    1974 Peugeot 504 TI
    - now on the road

    2009 Peugeot 407 HDI wagon - family car

    Previous: 2005 407 HDI manual sedan, 1980 504 GL, 1990 405 Mi16, 1977 504 GL Special, 1984 505 SRD Turbo



  17. #17
    nJm
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    Pug307:
    Hmmn, 505 vs 240.

    In all fairness, I don't think a metal bumper vs a glass/plastic lighting assembly is a fair comparison
    Since when has my car had a metal bumper bar? It looks like plastic to me The whole front quarter panel on the Magna was severly dented in. It did not just crack a few lights. I've seen other 505's that have been in crashes and come off rather well. A 505 crashed into the side of my grandma's Mazda Metro at a rather high speed (he slammed on the brakes from 100) and was written off as all cars would. However what was impressive was the 505's cabin was not compromised. The driver escaped without serious injuries, just some broken ribs etc. The 505 might not quite be a Volvo, but it a damn solid car. I think the thing that really goes against it in this respect is the thin 'clack' sound the doors make when they shut. This is less to do with the strength of the doors but rather the latches and rubber seal.

    cheers!
    Nick
    1983 Peugeot 505 GR


    "All of its cars from the 1.1 litre 205 through the ugly duckling 309 to the 2.2 litre 505 GTi had a rightness and a righteousness about them that turned every humdrum drive into a journey. Someone, I once wrote, in the bowels of Peugeot understands handling and how a chassis should feel." - Jeremy Clarkson

  18. #18
    1000+ Posts silverexec's Avatar
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    I'll second everything that's been said comparing the GTi to the GR. While I've never actually worked on a GR, I'm sure there aren't many cars which are trickier to work on than a GTi.

    For only $2000, that GTi would need a fair bit of work I'm guessing. You can easily spend a couple of thousand getting everything right on it, especially if you get a mechanic to do all the work. I bought mine for $5500 6 months ago (a bit too much I think) and I'm still trying to get things right on it, mainly air-con and to get the fuel-injection sorted. Mind you I'm on a limited budget so it's mainly because I haven't been able to afford to get it done. It's a great car, I just haven't been able to enjoy it at it's full potential just yet.

    505s do seem very solid. I was impressed by the large reinforcing bar in the doors when I had the door trims off, makes me feel quite safe. The doors do have a very ordinary shutting sound, a friend of mine has old 81 Mazda 626 and even his doors shut with a nice solid sounding "thunk".

    Richard
    - Richard

    Now: 405 SRI D70 '93
    - 2.0L manual
    Earlier: 505 GTi Executive '85
    - hence "Silver Exec"...
    25 GTX '86
    - manual conversion

  19. #19
    Sense Pug307's Avatar
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    Look what's inside the bumper...

    Peugeot 307 XS 1.6
    Aussiefrogged in MEL, PER, SYD, BNE & ADL.
    Rendezvous Adelaide 2005

  20. #20
    nJm
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    Yes, but I meant externally...

    The plastic bumper didn't crack or even get damaged much.

    Mind you I'm not entirely certain it is metal underneath. I'll check when it is day time. All I know is a spider lives inside it somewhere and won't go away no matter how much high pressure water gets squirted at the bumper. Gotta love cobwebs.
    Nick
    1983 Peugeot 505 GR


    "All of its cars from the 1.1 litre 205 through the ugly duckling 309 to the 2.2 litre 505 GTi had a rightness and a righteousness about them that turned every humdrum drive into a journey. Someone, I once wrote, in the bowels of Peugeot understands handling and how a chassis should feel." - Jeremy Clarkson

  21. #21
    Sense Pug307's Avatar
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    It's what's on the inside that counts

    Peugeot 307 XS 1.6
    Aussiefrogged in MEL, PER, SYD, BNE & ADL.
    Rendezvous Adelaide 2005

  22. #22
    nJm
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    So the spider counts? clown

    I'm gonna stop now because I'm tired and when I'm tired I get rather stubborn. approve
    Nick
    1983 Peugeot 505 GR


    "All of its cars from the 1.1 litre 205 through the ugly duckling 309 to the 2.2 litre 505 GTi had a rightness and a righteousness about them that turned every humdrum drive into a journey. Someone, I once wrote, in the bowels of Peugeot understands handling and how a chassis should feel." - Jeremy Clarkson

  23. #23
    Gus
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    505 bumpers are plastic.

    Early model Volvo 240 bumpers are metal covered with rubber, with (I'm told) the afore-mentioned little pistons in them to absorb impact.

    Later models seem to have moved to a more plasticky design (my friend with the 78 244 bought an 83 240 wagon on Saturday, and it's got plastic-covered bumpers that look much more like the 505 bumpers.)

  24. #24
    1000+ Posts Rod Hagen's Avatar
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    [quote]nJm:
    Originally posted by Pug307:
    [qb]Hmmn, 505 vs 240.

    However what was impressive was the 505's cabin was not compromised. The driver escaped without serious injuries, just some broken ribs etc. The 505 might not quite be a Volvo, but it a damn solid car. ...

    cheers!
    In an analysis of injuries and fatalities accidents a couple of years back (based on "real world" data from crashes in NSW and Victoria over a twelve month period, the 505 actually came out in front of the Volvo 2 series. In fact it it won (or came equal first) in its class, as the safest mid sized sedan, despite may of the other vehicles being far newer designs .

    The Volvo 7 series (luxury car category) beat it though in the overall stakes, as did the Falcon EA/EB series 1 (large car category).

    Cheers

    Rod
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  25. #25
    1000+ Posts Rod Hagen's Avatar
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    We had a Volvo 244 in the family for a few years. (my wife's car) .

    Mechanically it was probably came out a bit behind the 505's I've owned. Major failures over the four or five years that we had it (this was a ten year old car when we bought it) included:

    transmission (BW35)- required complete rebuild
    water pump
    fuel pump
    starter motor
    ignition computer
    suspension bushes
    front seats
    indicator control stalk
    reversing light switch

    Yes, it was easy to work on.
    Yes, it had reasonable perfomance for its size, (ours was an injected model - the carburettor ones are real slugs) but it chewed up more fuel to do the job than a 505 does, especially when driven hard.
    The brakes were pretty good, but no better than a 505's in my view.

    The live rear axle is agricultural , even when compared with my live rear axled 505 wagon. This could add to nasty experiences when braking hard on bad roads. It was not a car I liked to punt over the dirt too often.

    Apart from the seats (which were shocking if you were used to French cars - and I was regularly driving a DS at the time) the build quality was pretty good., but a bit of bubble rust developed around window seals etc.

    Yep, the turning circle was impressive. Identical to my old Pug 403 in fact, and certainly better than a 505. The steering was very heavy though.

    Headlights were pretty ordinary on the 244. May have improved in later models.

    I ran into a roo myself in the Volvo once. It took out the grill, bonnet, a headlight, blinkers, radiator etc, and distorted a bumper mount. About the same as you would expect in a 505 in a similar accident Mind you, I've also been tailended in the DS by a Volvo 240. The Volvo very definitely won.

    So , in the safety and reliability stakes I'd say they are much of a muchness. In terms of driving pleasure though, the Peugeot suspension puts it light years in front.

    Cheers

    Rod
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