Modern technology..a new era in panel beating?
  • Register
  • Help
Results 1 to 8 of 8
  1. #1
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Queensland, Australia
    Posts
    8,923

    Modern technology..a new era in panel beating?

    When Adrian got his BX it had a nasty bump in the drivers side corner of the rear bumper. The corner had effectively been reversed & bent in instead of out. Having read overseas the dramas they have over there getting replacement bumpers I was under no misapprehension as to the possible cost to replace it and even worse, the availability. They also seem to go to great lengths to get the same colour, hence I was under the impression that the colour was impregnated.
    As it turned out, when I hit it with the Karcher, the paint started to come off the lower section so we stripped it; back to the black base colour. the actual colour of the plastic.
    Removing the dent at first appeared to be a major problem as it seemed to have a heap of stress on it, so I hit it with a B & D heat gun. Getting the heat right was always going to be a worry, but I found that when it was at a "workable" temperature, if you have a spotlight on it, it starts to shine & almost gives the appearance of sweating. At that point, a variety of wooden tools (ie) hammer handles, mallets and a variety of pieces of various shapes of off cuts as well as hammers & dollys and "G" clamps must be on hand and in easy reach, at which time it is all pushed & stretched back into shape in its basic form & then carefully tapped using tyhe hammers & dollys & straightened using the offcuts & "G" clamps.
    Painting requires a lot of preparation particularly as it doesn't take kindly to silicones in polishes & pretectants but again to our surprise, no fish eyes came from the plastic base which I would have expected to be at least partially porous.
    The paint in our case couldn't be bought in Acrylic & had to be two pack due to the silver clouring & irredescent in this particular colour so was a base coat with clear coat over system that had to be used.
    Normal primer was used but was put on as a full coat & then sanded back to almost a dust coat consistency & a flexible additive was added.
    The end result we are more than pleased with & got rid of that daggy looking black that turns to a dirty greyish kind of colour on the top half of the bumpers which was all the go about that era of cars. The bumpers are now colour coded & look top stuff.
    Adrian will be posting some pics later including the before & afters, so if anyone has any dingles in their plastic panelling that they've been a bit scared to tacle, give it a go with a hair dryer or a heat gun as described above as you'll be pleasantly surprised at how easy it is to work with.

    Advertisement


    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger! Reno's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    1,260
    Alan, that sounds like it came up great, cant wait to see the pics. how time consuming was the whole procedure?

    Julian

  3. #3
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Queensland, Australia
    Posts
    8,923
    Xsara:
    Alan, that sounds like it came up great, cant wait to see the pics. how time consuming was the whole procedure?

    Julian
    Julian,

    These days I'm probably not a good guide to actual man hours as I've gone from being a quarter horse to more of a plodding stayer as they say in Racehorse circles snail but it was a fairly time consuming job, however having said all that, I'd say next time it wouldn't take all that long. As with all these kinds of jobs, the final finishing preparation was the longest part whereas the actual dent removal was really only less than an hour. I could have possibly got away without even painting if I wasn't such a fussy bugger.
    As you've seen this car complete with the damage and the black sections, I reckon you'll have trouble recognising it now. He'll be posting the pics when he gets home from work.

    Alan S cheers!
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  4. #4
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Posts
    29
    How much of a hassle was the sanding back, prepping and painting? I have a Renault with plastic bumpers that have paint that is cracking and peeling off - very sad looking
    New paint would make a huge differance.

  5. #5
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Queensland, Australia
    Posts
    8,923
    renophile:
    How much of a hassle was the sanding back, prepping and painting? I have a Renault with plastic bumpers that have paint that is cracking and peeling off - very sad looking
    New paint would make a huge differance.
    With the BX it was dead easy on the front; just do as you would any paint although extreme care is needed not to get carried away with too rough a wet & Dry paper so as to minimize the risk of deep scratches so about 320 was as rough as we got.
    Undercoat was done using "one shot" which is a putty/primer combined and then sanded back using 400 & then 800 paper until we could see through it. This was followed by the base coat and then hit with the top clear coat when iy was almost dry.
    Bog in the ripply bits was used to remove the initial uneveness, followed by a prime coat, hqand putty, more primer, sanded, guide coat which was again sanded off followed by more puttying and again sanded until a flawless surface remained which was then primed along with the rest of the bumper.
    The flexible additive in both top coats is essential, however if you cab keep the primer down to a dusting thickness, it's not essential in the primer.

    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  6. #6
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    Perth, Western Australia
    Posts
    6,248
    Alan, just one point, there's a special plastic primer for plastic bumpers. It's clear and very thin, not like paint at all. You then paint it normally on top (primer etc). I don't know what it does, exactly. You can find it in those Dupli Color paints.

    Stuey


    2003 PEUGEOT 206 GTi

  7. #7
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Queensland, Australia
    Posts
    8,923
    Stuey,

    At an educated guess, I'd say it's possibly some brand's patented stuff as I was sent a pile of trade literature by ICI/Dulux a while back & according to them, the secret is this "flexible additive" which you use right through the entire job.
    The rear bar that we stripped was the scarey looking one as it looked as greasy as a butcher's ahhh..... apron.. mallet mallet so it copped plenty of prepsol and I also used a Scotchbrite to buff it but the paint seemed to really etch onto it.
    I'll check that stuff out with my painter mate next time I see him though.

    Alan S cheers!
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  8. #8
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Queensland, Australia
    Posts
    8,923
    O.K. Here's a comparison before & after.

    Alan S

    <img src="http://home.bigblue.net.au/smithra/Gallery/front_compare.jpg" alt=" - " />

    <img src="http://home.bigblue.net.au/smithra/Gallery/rear_compare.jpg" alt=" - " />

    And one for the members Gallery; Love this one.

    <img src="http://home.bigblue.net.au/smithra/Gallery/02_0004.jpg" alt=" - " />
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •