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Thread: Amplfier

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! MR206's Avatar
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    Amplfier

    i need help! im trying to hook up my amplifier for my stereo in my 206 in the boot of the car, and i cant find anywhere to ground it on the chasis...any ideas anyone please!

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  2. #2
    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    try the bolts for the bumper
    i know in the 306 they come through into a section in the boot about where the jack is stored
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  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger! Reno's Avatar
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    what about on the back of the folding seats???? mount it on there!

  4. #4
    2000+ Brad's Avatar
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    I have mine connected to a bolt in the void in the left rear, between the wheel spanner and back of the car.

    Ensure the following:
    1. The earth wire is the same size as the powerwire...at least 8GA
    2. The earth wire is as short as practically possible
    3. Use a gold plated eye connector such as
    <img src="http://www1.jaycar.com.au/products_uploaded/product_5443.jpg" alt=" - " />
    4. Make sure all paint is cleared from where the eye connector contacts the car

    <small>[ 04 February 2003, 11:38 PM: Message edited by: Phasis ]</small>
    B to the R to the A from the D
    1994 MX5 Clubman...are you sure it's not French?

  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger! Ralph's Avatar
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    If you are going to use the gold plated eye connectors suggested by Phasis you, are better off soldering them than just crimping them onto the wire. Pull the plastic sleeves off them and bin them. Get some good quality heat shrink and use it. Crimp the connectors onto the wire and solder them on. Heat shrink over the connector and about 1" down the wire (put the heat shrink on first!). This will make a low resistance reliable connection. I've never been a fan of using crimp type connectors alone, especially in cars with all the viabration etc.

    Cheers,

    Ralph.
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  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger! jfn180's Avatar
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    put it on the back of the seats, i have 2 amplfier in my 306 and found the ground easy,just make sure that you ready bolt them down
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  7. #7
    1000+ Posts CHRI'S16's Avatar
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    In a 206 its a little more complicated than our 306's, when i did the first system in a 206 i was ready to kill PSA.
    Either way, im assuming the amp will be in the back somewere, we used the bolts that held the folding backs of the rear seat.
    If not (as i did it in a gti not 4-door XT), try a ancorage bolt, such as for the baby capsules, they will be pointed out in the cars manual.
    As soe of the other boys suggested, make it a good connection, and use atleast 8ga wire for both +ve and -Ve connections. Carefull when running this cable too. If in doubt, jay car sell several cheap books on how-to for car audio.
    PM me if you want detailed tips, i used to install alot, and just do it for mates now.
    Cheers
    Xq
    ... ptui!

  8. #8
    2000+ Brad's Avatar
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    Solder (normal tin solder) has quite a high resistance. If you do not get the solder in through the fibers then it will actually be a worse situation than a really tight crimp.

    Do not have the amp screwed directly into the car body, or any other metal part of the car. This can cause ground loops which are that annoying whine you get through the speakers intune with the revs.
    B to the R to the A from the D
    1994 MX5 Clubman...are you sure it's not French?

  9. #9
    Fellow Frogger! MR206's Avatar
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    thanks everyone! i'll give everything a go today
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  10. #10
    Fellow Frogger! MR206's Avatar
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    for some reason, everytime i try, it sparks once and wont spark again, so its like the battery decides to shut itself off, i got no idea how to do this and its making me very very angry!
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  11. #11
    2000+ Brad's Avatar
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    ALWAYS connect the amp to ground first before you connect any other wires. Then connect the power wire to the amp and work your way up to the battery, going through the fuse holder and finally connect the power wire to the battery.

    If there is one large spark, it sounds like you are blowing fuses, but this should not happen if you have the wiring correct.

    Make sure you use a large 5GA fuse block as close to the battery as possible, also avaliable from Jaycar. The fuse you put in should be the next higher rated one of the sum of all the fuses in the amplifiers. EG if you have a 30A blade fuse in the amp, use a 40A 5GA fuse at the battery. If you have 2 amps of 20A and 40A, use an 80A or 100A fuse, depending on what is avaliable. There is no real harm in using a large fuse (100A) on a 20A amplifier though as any power wire short will produce around 1000A and easily blow a fuse of that size anyway.
    B to the R to the A from the D
    1994 MX5 Clubman...are you sure it's not French?

  12. #12
    Fellow Frogger! Reno's Avatar
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    Phasis:
    Solder (normal tin solder) has quite a high resistance. If you do not get the solder in through the fibers then it will actually be a worse situation than a really tight crimp.
    that is what i have been led to believe too.... from what i have gathered soldering and car ausio dont really mix that well!

  13. #13
    2000+ Brad's Avatar
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    Xsara:
    that is what i have been led to believe too.... from what i have gathered soldering and car ausio dont really mix that well!
    :rolleyes [/QB]
    Several reasons for this...
    The very different humidity and temperature of a car affects solder more than it does with a good crimping. Gold plating does not corrode, nor does it expand and contract like solder does which causes micro cracks allowing air to penetrate and reducing conductivity.
    Most good gold plated componets allow more than enough current to go through with minimal voltage drop. If you look at the pro-audio equipement, it's all designed to be crimped onto good quality wire. Some wire even comes with a square profile allowing greater contact area than a circular profile.
    B to the R to the A from the D
    1994 MX5 Clubman...are you sure it's not French?

  14. #14
    1000+ Posts CHRI'S16's Avatar
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    <span><span class=ResizableText0>
    Originally</span> posted by MR206: <strong>for some reason, everytime i try, it sparks once and wont spark
    again, so its like the battery decides to shut itself off, i got no idea how to do this and its making me very very angry! <span class=ResizableText0>
    </span> </span>
    is your battery disconnected first,?
    How have you done the positive wire? and what terminals did you hook them to?
    What is controling the remote switch wire? is this a reliable source?
    Even if you are doing every thing right, when you connect the battery (amp connectios first, battery positive second and battery ground last), yo will/might still get sparks, don't be scared this is pretty common.
    Like i said i don't mind sending you VERY detailed "how to" if you like Mr 206. good luck and let me know.

    Phasis and xsara, what you have been told only applies to non-resin cored flux solder and of low heat type.
    For all my cabbling i use 30/70 solder and i pre-flux all surfaces and cimbine it with good crimping. Use a hi-Temp iron for quick melt through, and HOLD very still wile setting, very important to avoid dry/dull joints which are the most common ESR mistake in car audio.
    What you have said about craking and the ESR of soldering mostly only happens to common solder which is ussualy 50/50 or 60/40 which can be a bit britle. Combined with poor techniques and this will lead to a to high ESR.
    Having said that the real ESR (effective series resistnce) in all cases is almost nill. Even when i was competing the extra reliability of hand soldered cables, joints, RCA's etc, scored extra points with the judges. In the IASCA manual this are is under review, so for those few who think IASCA are gods (ie yanks) this subject is still open case.
    cheers
    Xq

    ps, im gald im out of the install game now lads, you wont belive some of the things ive seen.!
    ... ptui!

  15. #15
    Fellow Frogger! MR206's Avatar
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    thanks EVERYONE for all the help! after some hard work i finally got it working, and if i told u'z why u'd probably laugh, all it was, was the wrong remote wire at the back of the headunit!! DOH!
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  16. #16
    2000+ Brad's Avatar
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    Don't worry, we all learn by our mistakes....hey, I put a screwdriver through the rubber surround of a $250 subwoofer....I learnt
    B to the R to the A from the D
    1994 MX5 Clubman...are you sure it's not French?

  17. #17
    Fellow Frogger! Andreas's Avatar
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    i tried removing speaker wire from my dash with pliers...i slipped and smashed my windscreen mallet

  18. #18
    1000+ Posts CHRI'S16's Avatar
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    <span><span class=ResizableText0>
    Originally</span> posted by Andreas: <strong>i tried removing speaker wire from my dash with <span class=ResizableText0>pliers...i</span>
    slipped and smashed my <span class=ResizableText0>windscreen</span> <span class=ResizableText0> mallet
    </span> </span>
    uhh hurting ......
    when i was installing part time, a helper who i was training was looking for a lights on wire, on a near new honda Accord, he tripped the AIRBAG and deffend us both!!!!!...........
    cost me $2500 and a new pair of pants.lol

    Xp
    ... ptui!

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