GTi 180 RUN IN
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Thread: GTi 180 RUN IN

  1. #1
    1000+ Posts rustymunga's Avatar
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    Icon1 GTi 180 RUN IN

    Hey everyone.

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    Just wondering if you would have any comments on running in the GTi 180. The sales rep. at Alec Mildren Peugeot said that running in was not an issue with this car, I didn't agree, feel free to prove me wrong, but I am sure you have to give the car a nice solid run in...

    So how do you do it? What is the best way? Is it o.k. to have afew nice vrooms here and there?


  2. #2
    1000+ Posts kermit's Avatar
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    Here is one school of thought:
    http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
    Cheers Simon
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  3. #3
    1000+ Posts rustymunga's Avatar
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    thanks kermit

    I like your new car, always loved the 406's

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    Fellow Frogger! 206 RC's Avatar
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    Do a search, this has been discussed so often..

    Personally, I always let the engine warm up... 70degrees on the coolent... and then I drive it normally until it hits 90... then I fang the crap out of it..

    Did that from day one... will do it till day end...

    I don't believe modern cars need running in... they are run in on the bench in the factory and are designed alot better than the older engines..
    Clint

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    1000+ Posts rustymunga's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ashvsaod
    Do a search, this has been discussed so often..

    Personally, I always let the engine warm up... 70degrees on the coolent... and then I drive it normally until it hits 90... then I fang the crap out of it..

    Did that from day one... will do it till day end...

    I don't believe modern cars need running in... they are run in on the bench in the factory and are designed alot better than the older engines..
    What do you mean by 70 degrees on coolant and then 90 you will fang the crap out of it?

    How many k's has your car done? Has it experianced any problems with the running gear?

  6. #6
    1000+ Posts rustymunga's Avatar
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    Kermit that site is interesting. It looks like it is a good go. The guy talks about bikes though, would this relate to cars aswell?

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    Fellow Frogger! 206 RC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rustymunga
    What do you mean by 70 degrees on coolant and then 90 you will fang the crap out of it?

    How many k's has your car done? Has it experianced any problems with the running gear?
    If you sit in a 180 you will know what I am talking about... My method is identical to this site that Simon has given you...

    Ensure the car is warmed up... (Engine wise, don't turn on the heater..) once, the engine is at operating temperature.. which is 90degrees... Drive the hell out of it... 6000+rpm.. accellerate... brake... accellerate... brake..

    Dont waste your time running the engine at low revs for 1000 k... that is an old wives tale.

    Car has done 13000km... and is beginning to open up nicely... sounds better, runs better... yet to have any problems.
    Clint

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    1000+ Posts rustymunga's Avatar
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    nice

    Your avatar is so sweet. I would have got black if it wasn't such a biatch to clean all the time. Blue is almost as tasty though. Makes it look like a lolli pop, the blue suits me though. But your avatar is so nice, car looks tough.

    Ashvoad, can you guide me in the right direction as to say what are the things to look out for when driving the 180? Is there anyway you can tell me to help me drive it better? Any tips?

    Driving tips that is, I am going to run it in as you have said now


  9. #9
    1000+ Posts Uga Boga's Avatar
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    Do as the service manual says....
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    Fellow Frogger! Industrie's Avatar
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    I didn't follow any running in period. I NEVER run the car past 3000 rpm till it has warmed up. I use both the coolant & oil temp guages for this, but the oil guage is the more important one (the one to the right of the tacho). This is because you need to wait till the oil has been properly distributed through the engine to minimise wear & tear from friction.

    I got the car to redline several times during the first 1000kms. To be honest I did go a little easy on it, but I certainly didn't baby it. I didn't rev it out as often as I do now. The car has done 44k now & there haven't (touch wood) been any engine issues.

    I did get told by one Pug mechanic (one I trust, not a dealer), to get the engine rings bedded in properly to run it uphill one, or two, gears higher than you normally would. So something you might normally travel up at 70 in 4th start at the bottom at 60, put the car into 5th & accelerate to 100. It labours the engine a little, goes through a lot more fuel than usual but speeds up the run in process. I didn't do this very often, as it goes against my usual practices, but it seems to work.

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    XTC
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    Like others here.. I didn't baby it, or thrash it.

    Just drive normally (not like grandma) until the engine oil warms (don't let it warm just by idling in the driveway either), then give it a little bit of stick, not rev limit kind stuff, but 5000rpm isn't an issue.

    Actually this is pretty much how you should treat the car every day of it's life ... drive to warm, then do what you like (within reason). Yes I've seen the limiter in the 138 (and in the 180 it seems to get there quicker - surprising you) but the limiter is there to protect you (and the engine) and is set at a much lower level then what the engine can do anyway - by design.

    More important is doing a good check upon pick up for scratches, paint chips, rim damage (easy on a 180), interior mis-fitments etc .. make sure you note all of these things BEFORE driving away.

    - xTc -
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    Fellow Frogger! Pug4eva's Avatar
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    Load the engine, not race it. Go for the hills, use the full throttle. It will take you a good 10000km's before you really feel something different about the response.

    Also, change oil/oil filter after the first thousand/1500km's; and ONLY USE THE 5W40 Synthetic, don't get semi, or think of going different rating. The french manual clearly says this. (Elf 5w40 Excellium is what I had used).

    As you build k's, take the engine to higher rev's. I only really red lined it after approx 1000k's (in acceleration of course, not standing still )

    Also, keep an eye on tyre pressure. One last thing, hand wash the car, don't use those scrubby brushes on it for goodness sake. And avoid scrubbing the black strips on the doors, rather clean them with the best leather u can get (ie the palm of your hand), and touch dry them, they will always look great rather than the scratchy look.

    When are you picking yours up? Don't forget to share the pictures with us


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    Fellow Frogger! 206 RC's Avatar
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    One thing, use Total oil... others may disagree with me... but I notice a difference.

    Elf would be similar, I avoid Castrol... but like i previously wrote.. that is MY experience.
    Last edited by 206 RC; 14th October 2005 at 09:10 AM.
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    Total and Elf oils are interchangeable based not only on the fact that it's the same company that makes them, but also on their identical technical specifications

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    1000+ Posts rustymunga's Avatar
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    Are you guys saying that I should change my oil for the run in period? Should I do this as soon as possible?

    Thanks guys

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    1000+ Posts Dave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rustymunga
    Are you guys saying that I should change my oil for the run in period? Should I do this as soon as possible?

    Thanks guys
    After the 1st thousand k's or so, then at say 10000.

    Dave


  17. #17
    1000+ Posts Wildebeest's Avatar
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    Default GTi 180 Run In.

    Quote Originally Posted by rustymunga
    Are you guys saying that I should change my oil for the run in period? Should I do this as soon as possible?

    Thanks guys
    Rust'
    The dealers usually do all this at the first "free" service. I imagine this old fashioned courtesy is still observed?

    You've been getting all sorts of conflicting advice on running in. Just observe the owners handbook.

    PS. The initial fit oil filter would be a much finer filter than the usual service item. This assures that all the manufacturers swarf etc are removed. Leave it to do its job!

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    1000+ Posts TroyO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wildebeest
    Rust'
    The dealers usually do all this at the first "free" service. I imagine this old fashioned courtesy is still observed?
    According to the dealer when I took delivery of the 206, there was no more 3 month/1500km free service anymore. It is not required, apparently. Not sure how long this has been the case though.

    Troy.

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    I agree with Wildebeest, do what Peugeot recommends for running in, and change the oil at 1000-1500k's regardless of what Peugeot says. Manufacturers are competing on service costs/intervals nowadays, and some have given up this first change, but I'd still do it. The running in process with modern cars is basically driving it normally anyway.

    Stuey


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    I also agree with the runin everyone appears to go by, take it easy till all the temps are up to norm then take it through the whole rev range at differant loads. my one is about to hit the 40k mark and I have also driven it like this from day one and yes it sounds so sweet now, engine spins up very nice and there have been no mechanicel problems, just a few warantie issues that are now fixed. oh yes get the oil changed at around the 1000k mark. happy driving

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    Tadpole Chucky's Avatar
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    You're all partially correct. The article that kermit posted is pretty much on the ball. Unfortunately for most production cars the critical point of engine break in is nearly past by the time you get it!

    The trick is to create enough cylinder pressure to load the rings onto the bores, thereby facilitating a better ring seasl quicker. This is NOT accomplished by revving the bejesus out of them (mean effective cylinder pressure drops pretty quickly after max torque).

    On the dyno, we usuualy do this by running the car at max torque and various throttle openings (load) for ony about 15-20 minutes. On the F7R Sodemo's you could audbily notice the difference in engine note when the rings sealed!

    And don't for a second think the car companies "run them in on the bench". You don't wan to know how your engines is run at the factory, if it is at all.

    So, my trick is to load the engine in a high gear on the way home from the dealership. this can be accomplished by accelerating at half throttle in top gear at 80-100kmh and backing off (repeat a couple of times), then about 3/4 throttle then back off (repeat a couple of times), then full throttle a couple of times. there's no need to let it rev, in fact what you're trying to do is hold it at a point (about 2500-3000rpm in a four cyl road car) and load the rings.

    After that, drive it like you stole it!!
    Last edited by Chucky; 16th October 2005 at 10:10 AM.

  22. #22
    XTC
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chucky
    And don't for a second think the car companies "run them in on the bench". You don't wan to know how your engines is run at the factory, if it is at all.
    Last time I was at a car plant, I saw what they did to test the car. It was put on a rolling road and driven HARD, they took then engine close to redline and went up and down the gear box several times ... some guy with a checklist was ticking things off, testing lights and other stuff. At that point I'd thought that taking it easy on a new car for say the first 1000-1500kms was the wise thing, but after seeing that display one was left thinking .. why bother !?!?

    So Rusty when's the big day ?

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    Tadpole Chucky's Avatar
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    I saw the GM Family II engine plant in operation one day. The final stage of robotic assembly was the engine being started and ran up to 5000rpm under no load.

    That's when I thought the whole thing was a bit of a joke too.

  24. #24
    1000+ Posts edgedweller's Avatar
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    No load is no load guys.

    ed ge

  25. #25
    1000+ Posts rustymunga's Avatar
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    Hey guys.

    This tuesday my dad will be picking me up from boarding school (I weekly board not full time ) Dads treating me to picking it up with me and letting me drive back to school, I am looking forward to showing my mates

    Ok, ok... Let me go through afew things with you all. I want to treat this car like it is my child, don't get me wrong but when you get a car like this handed to you and your 17yrs old, you kinda want to do this sorta thing.

    1. I purchase car. I have around three hours of driving by myself having some fun and getting used to my new 180.

    2. In this three hours I will perform what some of you have said to seal the piston rings. So go through this with me. I will get on a straight deserted road (I know the ideal one) and I will stop. Then I will take the car with 1/2 throttle and hit the 6000-65000 rpm mark. After this I will let the engine brake on its own with no pedal brake assistance. With 2-3 minute intervals I will do this 4-5 times. On the third forth and fith time I will engage second gear and let the engine break on its own once again, hitting the 6000 - 65000 rpm mark. After letting the engine have a little 3 minute rest I will go then and have some fun around the place, keeping in mind that it is a new car and I won't be able to drive that hard as I will be getting used to it.

    3. I drive back to school which is 20 to 30 minutes highway speed, dropping back to fourth a couple of times to give the engine some higher rpm's.

    Chucky if you see this would you mind going through and correcting anything I have said that may not help me break in my engine. Thats all I need and I will feel confident to break my engine in.

    Thanks for you help guys, all of you

    P.S. Before posting this thread I no doubt realised that this sort of question would draw arguments as to what is the appropriate way to break an engine in. I have been told by to many people to avoid following the manual. I am choosing to run it in on what the most sophisticated and logical yet somehow contradicting process involves. If any of you see what I have said and feel that it may not be the ideal process I would love to hear what you have to say. Just wan't to run the thing in perfectly

    Thanks heaps for all the help

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