My car doesn't like winter
  • Register
  • Help
Results 1 to 14 of 14
  1. #1
    1000+ Posts Dave's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    1,340

    Default My car doesn't like winter

    Well I can tell that winter is on the way. If left my car out in the garden last night and there was a little rain. Each morning there is a lot of condensation around the car. Now my car doesn't like this very much, it doesn't like idling and stalls whenever I stop at traffic lights. After travelling for 30 mins and the engine has been hot for a while (and i assume all the condensation has evaporated) everything is back to normal as if there was no problem.
    So where too start

    Advertisement


    I think its about time for a new distributor cap and ignition leads. Currently the car has non-original ones that don't cover up the spark plug holes entirely.
    Any other suggestions?

    Also while we are at it, my vacuum advance has never worked so if anyone knows where to get a whole new/reco distributor, i wouldn't mind picking one up.

    Thanks for the help as always guys

    Dave


  2. #2
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Queensland, Australia
    Posts
    8,923

    Default

    As yours has a carby and distributor set up I would imagine, I found with my old Trs that it was very touchy particularly in cooler weather to the float level.
    Based on experience when I was involved in competition, I have always been inclined to try to set engines slightly towards lean than richness as we found a better rev out once proper operating temps had been reached whereas being on the rich side seemed to tend to make them less crisp at higher revs and with my Trs I also found this was also the secret to decent fuel consumption. I used to set the float level on a trial and error system rather than by the book.
    With it set as it was, I used to run with the choke for the first few miles after which it ran perfectly all day. I explained this to the buyer who promptly ignored it, took it to someone (who'll remain nameless) who advised that the car would never run like that, adjusted the float level and then tried to explain why all of a sudden it didn't run right any more and the fuel consumption had increased from 7.2L/100klms to 11.5L/100klms on open road driving on "other factors"
    My logic was that if it is a bit rough around the eges for the first few minutes, that was preferrable to being sweet when cold for a few minutes but then running rough as guts for the rest of the day..

    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  3. #3
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aust.
    Posts
    16,383

    Default

    My BX would do this every now and then to Ang. It'd run like a dog, mis 'n' carry on (or fail to start which is exceptionally unusual for that car).

    I started thinking complex things ... checking wiring/senders/sensor etc until my brain hurt. Then decided first 'check the basics'.

    I chucked a new set of sparkplugs in, tested the HT leads and thought I'd leave 'em alone, whipped the dizzie cap off ............ er .......... Shane have you ever check the cap/rotor on this car ............

    Alrighty, whipped inside and put one on order right away. Plugged it on the following day when it turned up in the post and she ran perfectly from the day on.

    you see the rotor button was near burnt away, the cap was toast, all it took was a tiny amount of moisture and the sparks would track across the cap to the wrong cylinder. I suggest checking the basics like HT wires/plugs/rotor/cap first. The 19GT has electronic ignition doesn't it ??? So no points to be found.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/citro%EBn-forum/90325-best-project-car-you-have-ever-seen.html
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  4. #4
    1000+ Posts Dave's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    1,340

    Default

    Hi Alan, the GT gets around 8.6L/100k in the driving i do everyday. Its not running too rich.
    I think the problem is due to the condensation as i know the problem won't occur if the car is garaged overnight and it does if you leave it out in the weather. Due to the cam the car never idles until its up to about 80 degrees. But should be fine from then. On days when i leave it out in the condensation it still stalls unless i've been driving the car for >20 mins.
    Thanks for the advice

    Dave


  5. #5
    1000+ Posts Dave's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    1,340

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron
    My BX would do this every now and then to Ang. It'd run like a dog, mis 'n' carry on (or fail to start which is exceptionally unusual for that car).

    I started thinking complex things ... checking wiring/senders/sensor etc until my brain hurt. Then decided first 'check the basics'.

    I chucked a new set of sparkplugs in, tested the HT leads and thought I'd leave 'em alone, whipped the dizzie cap off ............ er .......... Shane have you ever check the cap/rotor on this car ............

    Alrighty, whipped inside and put one on order right away. Plugged it on the following day when it turned up in the post and she ran perfectly from the day on.

    you see the rotor button was near burnt away, the cap was toast, all it took was a tiny amount of moisture and the sparks would track across the cap to the wrong cylinder. I suggest checking the basics like HT wires/plugs/rotor/cap first. The 19GT has electronic ignition doesn't it ??? So no points to be found.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Thanks Shane the button and everything looks fine, but i think i will be looking at new leads and a distributor cap in the near future.

    Noone has any leads on getting a new distributor to fix my vacuum advance?? i'm interested to know how the car would drive with it as it has never been connected since i got the car.

    Dave


  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger! ajpolden's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Launceston, Tasmania
    Posts
    291

    Default

    Hi Dave
    I have a second hand distibutor, i can't vouch for it's condition or when i could even get a look at it, but i reckon i could sell it to you if it proved to be what you were after ( knowing my luck i'd need it only 5k km down the track ).
    I got it and quite a few other parts when i bought the car, i believe it came off a fuel injected model though (not sure which), but it looks the same from memory.
    Something to think about,
    Andrew.
    Current:
    1999 406SV (D8)
    Previous:
    1986 BX19GT

  7. #7
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aust.
    Posts
    16,383

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dave
    Thanks Shane the button and everything looks fine, but i think i will be looking at new leads and a distributor cap in the near future.

    Noone has any leads on getting a new distributor to fix my vacuum advance?? i'm interested to know how the car would drive with it as it has never been connected since i got the car.

    Dave
    It's been a couple of years since I was there, but Dave had a few BX GT's being wrecked at French Connection. Martin Bray could also be worth a try.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  8. #8
    1000+ Posts Dave's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    1,340

    Default

    Thanks Andrew, if i have no luck with wreckers up here i'll send you a message

    Thanks also Shane i'll give dave a call.
    If anyone else has any suggestions as to why the car is having these problems let me know



    Dave


  9. #9
    Fellow Frogger! biologist's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Perth, Western Australia
    Posts
    867

    Default

    Dave, I used to use a spray on product to seal my electrics on a very
    exposed old landcruiser ute. Applied around both ends of the plug leads
    and the dizzy cap and any of the critical electical components, solenoids
    etc it effectively sealed them from moisture incursion.
    Had to be dry first of course. Worked a treat in all weather conditions and
    a few of my mates who ran rally cars used it in winter races.
    No idea what it was called but should be easy enough to find in a decent
    auto supplier shop.

    Cheers,
    Biologist
    ----------------
    A
    one Megane Family

  10. #10
    1000+ Posts Dave's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    1,340

    Default

    Thanks mate, i'll keep an eye out for it


    Dave


  11. #11
    Fellow Frogger! AlsPug504's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Posts
    310

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dave
    Also while we are at it, my vacuum advance has never worked so if anyone knows where to get a whole new/reco distributor, i wouldn't mind picking one up.

    Thanks for the help as always guys

    Dave
    I would start righ there a hole in the advance diaphram would cause a vaccum leak change the mechinisim and that might solve your problem.

    als

  12. #12
    1000+ Posts Dave's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    1,340

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by AlsPug504
    I would start righ there a hole in the advance diaphram would cause a vaccum leak change the mechinisim and that might solve your problem.

    als
    The vacuum advance port on the manifold is just blocked off, so no leak - and obviously no vacuum advance.

    I gave the distributor a good clean and the car seems to be a bit happier now. I had a look in a bosch catalogue and it looks like i need BG838 (rotor) and GB 882 (cap). Just need to find where to get them now.

    Thanks for the help guys,

    Dave


  13. #13
    1000+ Posts silverexec's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Victoria
    Posts
    1,001

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dave
    After travelling for 30 mins and the engine has been hot for a while (and i assume all the condensation has evaporated) everything is back to normal as if there was no problem.
    So where too start
    I had a similar problem with my 505 GTi. Turns out the little carbon thing in my dissy cap had broken away and the rotor had all crusted up.

    A new cap and rotor fixed everything.

    Richard
    - Richard

    Now: 405 SRI D70 '93
    - 2.0L manual
    Earlier: 505 GTi Executive '85
    - hence "Silver Exec"...
    25 GTX '86
    - manual conversion

  14. #14
    1000+ Posts Dave's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    1,340

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by silverexec
    I had a similar problem with my 505 GTi. Turns out the little carbon thing in my dissy cap had broken away and the rotor had all crusted up.

    A new cap and rotor fixed everything.

    Richard
    Thanks mate, I have a bit of a list to do on the car now
    Rotor/Cap, Leads, vacuum advance, rear wheel bearing. Then i think everything is pretty much ok.



    Dave


Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •