Problems with an immobiliser
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  1. #1
    1000+ Posts okalford's Avatar
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    Sep 2004

    Icon9 Problems with an immobiliser

    My í89 505 GTI wagon that I bought 2 months ago has an added alarm/immobiliser that has so far been trouble. It was installed in 1992, all I have is a small brochure with instructions on turning the alarm on and off (says itís manufactured by Borundi electronics). It works from a small transmitter labelled Yellow light alarms. The system is somehow combined with the central locking. When I first got the car I had trouble with it, even the keys would not open the car. I had the door locks replaced and had been using only them.

    Iím not even sure what to ask but today my car would not start. (No ignition, nothing but the dash lights etc). The reason I think it might be the immobiliser is the same thing happened a month ago and I had the RACV come who diagnosed it to be the immobiliser. I tried this time to ďbeepĒ it etc a few times the way the RACV fellow did but this time I canít get it going at all. After 20 mins of annoying my neighbours with beeps and turning the alarm off and on etc (which kept coming on as I fiddled with the transmitter) I gave up and ran off late for work to catch the train.

    It makes the car unreliable so I think Iíd be best to get the unit disconnected or taken out. Iím not sure how much it will interfere with the original central locking and what sort of expert to go to get it returned to original Peugeot without it costing me a fortune. Any feedback/advice I would be grateful for. It happens out of the blue, usually a day after I had the tail-gate open...but that might have nothing to do with it.
    Thanks, OK

    Last edited by okalford; 15th December 2004 at 12:00 AM. Reason: to add a bit more detail

  2. #2
    1000+ Posts CHRI'S16's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2002


    I used to install stereo's and quite a few Alarms. "Yellow Light" were a huge brand at one point and was the No1 seller late 80's early 90's.
    My opinion is to remove it and get an updated model. I don't know much about 505 central locking, but can't see it being that dificult.
    Do the other doors open/lock when you use the key in the drivers barrel? If so then the central lockling is working to 90% of its abilities. If not you might have to replace the controler or master solenoid from a wrecking 505, or someone here might have parts.
    As for the alarm/imobiliser. ANY wires going to the wires from/to the ignition barrel ussualy are for imobilisation. If you want detailed info on how to bypass these let us know, its complicated, but certainly explainable. - Chris
    ... ptui!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2004


    I had the EXACT same issue with my 1987 Cx 25, different brand though. (not factory) What I did was I went out and bought from a local stero shop the alarm I like the most, and did not have them install it. Seems the alarm industry has some sort of wire color code that has been around for who knows how long, as when I disconencted the old one and started to wire mine in, every single wire was the exact color match! took all of 30 minutes and I now have an added radar sensor and shock sensors on all four corners, total cost of about $150. The problem had been in the old alarm, so replacing it, even though I left the old imobilizer in, fixed everything.

  4. #4
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Queensland, Australia


    Ahh, Immobilisers and alarms, the bloody bane of my life.
    Besides what has been stated above, there is also a couple of other options that I have experienced.
    Mine has a relay fitted to it and on my car, it just simply died without warning. Mine is a BX and this relay is fitted (after market by looks of it) near the battery.
    The other thrill this car also gave me was when the back up battery in the actual alarm/siren carked it. It also totally immobilised the car, so there's a couple more to be going on with.
    Pity they didn't bring the death penalty in for thieving scumbags then we could all live without the rotten things and have less problems.

    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

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