Respraying 505 Myself help !
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! Tiop's Avatar
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    Default Respraying 505 Myself help !

    Ok iam really close to getting the stuff together to respray.

    Buying new spray gun (replace the free one which came with compressor) $50-100

    Air trap $50

    Paint is metallic approx 50-60 dollars a litre

    Primer and clear coat about $20 a litre for each

    and a cutting compound $20

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    Now my question is what you rekon my chances are and how can i find out the paint colour code to my 505 GTi 1985 it is dark blue metallic.

  2. #2
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
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    First question; how big is the compressor?

    If it's under about 12 Cu foot, you're going to be battling with a HP gun.

    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  3. #3
    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    the other thing is it is 95% preparation

    the finish will onnly reflect the work you have put into the prep to do the job
    3 x '78 604 SL

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  4. #4
    1000+ Posts Shobbz's Avatar
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    I cheer anyone that is doing a home spray job!!!!!!!.

    Post some before during and after pics if you can. Would be great to see the steps.

    Best of luck.

    shobbz
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  5. #5
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    I'd also recommend painting a 'flat' colour ie: NOT a metalic as your first attempt.

    Metalic is still easy enough to spray, but it just adds another level of difficulty. If you do decide to go the metalic route I recommend painting the entire car at once, not one panel at a time. You see depending on how much you thin the paint, the metalic particles will 'stand up' different amounts. If you thin the paint slightly differently for each panel the paint will look different on each panel. If the gun splatters or you don't get even coverage, the metalic particles will not be distributed evenly (and you CAN see this).

    good luck
    Shane L.

    Quote Originally Posted by Tiop
    Ok iam really close to getting the stuff together to respray.

    Buying new spray gun (replace the free one which came with compressor) $50-100

    Air trap $50

    Paint is metallic approx 50-60 dollars a litre

    Primer and clear coat about $20 a litre for each

    and a cutting compound $20

    Now my question is what you rekon my chances are and how can i find out the paint colour code to my 505 GTi 1985 it is dark blue metallic.
    'Cit' homepage:
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    Proper cars--
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    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/citro%EBn-forum/90325-best-project-car-you-have-ever-seen.html
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


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  6. #6
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    i used an 8 cu foot compressor with a devilbiss GTI gun. This is a low/med pressure gun. The compressor was just adequate for a home job.
    Didn't do metalic but a perl. It turned out quite good for a first job.
    I sprayed at about 20 to 25 PSI. This makes for a good job with little 'fog'.
    Initially i made a provisional plastic sheet spray booth in the garage but after getting the pressures and viscosity about right there was practically no need for the plastic enclosure. With a high pressure gun there is a lot of mist and overspray.
    Good Luck

  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Hi,
    Pugrambo is right, painting a car is all preparation!

    I painted my 504 with my dad, and i spent2 weeks sanding the body back by hand, filling bits in, then more sanding, then more again! Then we sprayed primer on it, then sanded that back, then sprayed more primer over where we sanded too vigorously, and sanded that back.
    When we sprayed the primer we had to cover the car with newspaper a few times! Then when we were ready to really spray it, the actual spraying only took an hour or two.
    Important to remember you do the first coat and let it dry for a little bit. Then do the second coat, and very soon after do a 'full wet coat' to obatin a glossy finish. I used a bright white acrilic, came up really well - i'll try and find some photos and post them.

    Andrew

  8. #8
    1000+ Posts Haakon's Avatar
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    preperation, preperation , preperation!!!!! Put a bit of extra work in and remove parts (ie door handles, trim, bumpers, back and front windows etc) rather than just mask around them - will look much better.

    With metallic, as mentioned, do it all at once. You will do it at least three times as you will get a run, and have let it dry and riub back and start onver etc.

    Also, let the metallic dry for a couple of hours and then clear coat. If you let the the metallic completly dry, the clear wont adhere properly (learnt this the hard way - got a PERFECT metallic coat down, but let it dry so had to rub back and recoat again... )

    Be VERY careful putting the clear on (thin coats, built up as you go aorund the car - by the time you get back to where you started, its dry enough to accept another coat without running), as it can make the seemingly now dryish metallic coat run really easily. But if you are careful (a few thin coats is better than one thick one etc), you can get a beautiful gloss without even polishing it.

    But get a nice even colour coat down, and layer up slowly at least three or four or five clear coats to give you plently of thickness in the clear to cut and polish.

    Have done metallic acrylic jobs 4 times now - NEVER AGAIN!!!

    Also BUY A REALLY GOOD BREATHING MASK, with lots of spare canisters. Change the canister as soon as you can start smelling the thinnners/paint through it. Wear it even when mixing paints! This stuff is nasty, and you DO NOT want to be breathing it!

    The actual painting is the easy bit - as mentioned 95%+ of your time is preperation.
    I tried to drown my sorrows in alcohol, but the bastards learnt how to swim

  9. #9
    1000+ Posts HONG KONG PUGGY's Avatar
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    Tiop,
    Have you painted the 505 yet. Only just saw this therad today. I am no painter so can't advise you at all in this way, except to say that up here in Brisbane there used to be and I am fairly sure there still is a spray/bake booth available for hire to anyone with their own spray gear.
    I can't remember how much he was asking, but I remember thinking it wasn't alot for use of the booth for the day.
    Don't know what your budget is, but if I was to spray a car, I would look up this guy again, has to be the best option.

    Cheers, and good luck.
    Chris

  10. #10
    Fellow Frogger! Phil Whitton's Avatar
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    Firstly as only one other poster has identified: personal safety is paramount. You need to be around to admire the results.
    Acrylic thinners is basically MEK ( methyl ethyl ketone) and toulene ( both carcinogenic)with a bit of acetone for drying. At least its a bit less than the isocyanate in the 2 pack
    There are several other ingredients left over from the cracker also in it. I have the breakdown for Dulux, Berger Regal in both acrylic, enamel and 2 pack.
    Preparation has been identified in pervious posts also but if you can go to the local tech college library and get Al Probert's book on spray painting it is written for aprentices. It was our bible when I did the journeyman's course.

    Apart from the painting: where are you going to do the job?
    If in the open every bug in the district will visit you. If in the garage, everything in there will adopt the same colour. Use drop sheets over everything. Blow down the area and then wet spray to settle the dust.
    Good lighting is essential and air flow by either passive air flow or industrial fans depending on the space.
    As with panel preparation: have you removed the trim, lights etc? Otherwise use good painters masking tape. If you use newspaper watch for the little holes in the sheets and cover them too.

    It could be to your advantage to drop into the local spray shop ( or 2 if there are more than one in the area) and see if they would rent you their booth. If they are supportive then thay may also help with the techo bits like keeping the metallic paint stirred. Metallic paint pots have an agitator to keep the metallic fleck in suspension..

    If ready pick a good warm day with little breeze and low humidity ( or add more acetone to the thinners) and dont rush things. If not sure don't load up the spray as it will run. Use full strokes keeping the nozzle at about a hand span distance and parrallel to the job.

    Get an old panel from the wrecker and practice on it to test the gun set up and your technique before tackling the main job.

    Distance learning is great isn't it?

    Have fun: its great to admire one's work.


    Bon chance

    Phil

  11. #11
    1000+ Posts HONG KONG PUGGY's Avatar
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    Wow...
    Now I really wish you luck Tiop. I have an old R10 here, thanks God that it is white....I am definatly going to go and just respray it white....no gimmicks...no fancy bits, had thought about pearl?? No way as I am sure I'd even botch up white

  12. #12
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    Pearl is not any more difficult to apply than plain acrylic.
    I used basic white and mixed some perl in the last white application and then perl in the first clear application.
    Yes, with the high pressure guns you need to cover everything, HVLP guns are much better and waste less paint.
    JoBo

  13. #13
    Fellow Frogger! Tiop's Avatar
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    Cool thx i been looking at new spray gun any one have any ideas ?

    my air compressor is 8-10 cf iam thinking that ill get a lower pressure gun only thing is that they either say high pressure or dont write it.

    Also is gravity feed os suction types better ? whats the difference just preference ?

    thx all for the advice thus far

  14. #14
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Instead of getting one of those little Chinesse compressors that are so cheap (my father bough one, I'll be buggered if they output what they are quoted to output). They really are probably best used just to blow up car tires.

    Find a 2nd hand **real** compressor. Something around 16foot would be fantastic, but down to 12cubit foot (if it's a proper belt driven compressor with big reciever) should be ok. I paid quite a lot of $$$ about 10years ago for a 17cubic foot Australian made Clisby Compressor. It's paid for itself 100times over. It will even run small air sanders. It hasn't given a seconds trouble since I purchased it and will hopefully last me a lifetime I just change it's oil every chistmas (I chose christmas 'cos that way I can always remember when it was last changed ).

    I recently bought a cheapish HVLP gun, it is worth every cent of the $$$ it cost to buy. It's MUCH better than the old low pressure gun I was using.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
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    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  15. #15
    1000+ Posts Haakon's Avatar
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    Did all my resprays with my mates cheap compressor (no idea on specs - he is a chippie and uses it for nail guns mostly) and an "ok" gun, suction types. Worked fine. Last car I did I didnt even bother polishing, as the last clear coat came so glossy off the gun so well

    Will never do it again - no time these days and its a shit of a job. The R21 project that is next on the cards (might hot it up a bit ) will mostly preped (ie rubbed back, dents filled) and stripped of trim myself, but given to a spray shop for a 2 pak paintjob
    I tried to drown my sorrows in alcohol, but the bastards learnt how to swim

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tiop
    Cool thx i been looking at new spray gun any one have any ideas ?

    my air compressor is 8-10 cf iam thinking that ill get a lower pressure gun only thing is that they either say high pressure or dont write it.

    Also is gravity feed os suction types better ? whats the difference just preference ?

    thx all for the advice thus far
    The deVilbiss GTI works well on about 20 to 25 psi. As i mentioned my 15 year old Clisby belt driven 8cfm compressor with a big receiving tank just manages OK. That is i don't have to stop for air but it runs a lot.
    Gravity feed is best. No dregs left.
    As far as finish goes - it depends more on skill and the right paint consistency as well as ambient conditions. Equipment has to be right but doesn't need to be the most expensive.
    Whatever you buy make sure you can get spares.

  17. #17
    Fellow Frogger! Tiop's Avatar
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    starting to think ill go see some sprayers and ask them if i start this and cant do it (the spraying) will they consider doing it. lol dont know how keen they will be

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