Fixing 90's clearcoat for the home punter
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Thread: Fixing 90's clearcoat for the home punter

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default Fixing 90's clearcoat for the home punter

    Hi all,

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    With recent paint technologies, is repairing worn clearcoat something the average punter can tackle? I'd like to invest some time and a bit of money into restoring my cars paint, but it's not really something i'd bother taking to a professional, being an SI and all.

    It's a pity, the cars lower extremities still look new.

    Thoughts?






  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger!
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    I'm pretty certain your paint is beyond saving, it will buff up , however this won't last and the problem will recur. If you don't wish to spend any money then learn to live with the problem, otherwise get a repaint.
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  3. #3
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    nothing cna be done ... even polish will not work... as usually the clearcoat start pealing. You can sand it back to primer .... top and then clear. Big job, specialised equipment needed ( so you can avoid the nasty paints used these days). It can be done, but it won't be cheap or simple (unless you have the tools.............................. If you had the tools, you wouldn't be asking the questions ).

    seeya,
    Shane L.
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  4. #4
    1000+ Posts Wildebeest's Avatar
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    There is no excuse for paint to reach this stage and after only a few years too. It should have been a manufacturers warranty from the beginning.

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    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    What paint did 205s have from factory, anyway? Acrylic or two pack?
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  6. #6
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    Best you can hope for is to make it look better, but longer term adhesion will be a problem and it may look a bit flat. If you rub it, you lose the flake that sat high in the surface an gave it sparkle. The rubbed area is also going to look a bit darker and flatter than any area where the clear has remained. The metallic flake may be corroded now anyway, so wash it, remove as much chalky residue as you can using something gentle like a grey 3M scourer (=fine) and recoat with clear from a can if you don't have a gun. Acrylic clear will look OK, but isn't very durable and adhesion may not be the best. However, it has the advantage of allowing you to do easy spot repairs and is quite easily rubbed back. Eastwood sell a 2-part spray in a can that apparently does a reasonable job, but once it's activated you have to use it in one session. You could try an edge blending product to soften up the old paint a little to help adhesion, but it might be wasting money.

  7. #7
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    You could re-finish it with acrylic laquer... It will look spectacular if done well, but it just doesn't last in my experience It is much safer than the modern paints to use. All you need is some painters goggles and a standard filter mask available at pretty much any hardware store.

    all you really need is a compressor (with decent water trap), spray gun ............ and lots of sandpaper .... and lots of energy to use the sand paper ... Its a much bigger job than most people expect though. You would remove the bonnet to paint it ... and mask the whole car off with plastic film to do the roof.

    seeya
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  8. #8
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    It is unusual to get deterioration like this on white or lite colour because it doesn't absorb the heat like dark colours

  9. #9
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by julian c b View Post
    It is unusual to get deterioration like this on white or lite colour because it doesn't absorb the heat like dark colours
    it's metalic silver isn't it
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  10. #10
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    OK, cheers all.

    It looks pretty terrible, so you know what? I'm going to give it a go.

    Worst case is that I waste a couple days and a few cans of paint and have to get it professionally painted anyway.

    Cheers all.

  11. #11
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Selekta View Post
    OK, cheers all.

    It looks pretty terrible, so you know what? I'm going to give it a go.

    Worst case is that I waste a couple days and a few cans of paint and have to get it professionally painted anyway.

    Cheers all.
    pull off the petrol filler flap and get them to match the paint. if its white it will be easy. Metalic silver will be more difficult. Get acrylic laquer/dulon.... NOT the toxic 2 part urethane paints. You will need to sand it all back level... lots of time and patientience is involved. Using big circles while sanding. Don't dig holes with the paper to sand out stuff like stone chips. Once its primed (yes use primer), hang yourself up some sheets of paper. The metallic silver will look quite different in colour dependent on how much you thin it. Spray some paper and compare to the car. The more thinned it is, the more the metallic pigments will lay down ... so it will look different. Try to get as close to the existing paint as possible, the mix the paint in the same ratios when you paint the car.

    I like painting ... but it is a HUGE amount of time and effort

    seeya
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    Last edited by DoubleChevron; 24th January 2018 at 11:39 AM.
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  12. #12
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    You could paint it one industrial isocyanate free two packs.

    http://www.hichem.com.au/hicheminfo/...S_FMC/If-2.pdf

    This one is solid color, no clear coat required.

    A lot safer than use Iso based paints at home.
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  13. #13
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by robmac View Post
    You could paint it one industrial isocyanate free two packs.

    http://www.hichem.com.au/hicheminfo/...S_FMC/If-2.pdf

    This one is solid color, no clear coat required.

    A lot safer than use Iso based paints at home.
    Acrylic laquer is so much easier to work with for beginners .... Remember how easy is it to just sand and refinish every time you stuff it up ... and it dries almost instantly. Something that stays wet for 10 or 15 minutes ends up full of bugs and dust outside of a spray booth.

    I haven't tried the iso-free paints. The full on toxic ones with hardeners sure are nice to use.

    seeya
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    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

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  14. #14
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    The full on toxic ones with hardeners sure are nice to use.
    But not so "nice" to the human body. And even the "gassing off" is equally toxic.

    You really need a pressure fed mask , suit, and proper ventilated bake over to spray them safely.
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  15. #15
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by robmac View Post
    But not so "nice" to the human body. And even the "gassing off" is equally toxic.

    You really need a pressure fed mask , suit, and proper ventilated bake over to spray them safely.
    Defiantly. That is why I suggested NOT using it. Even its gassing off makes me feel sick in the stomach when the paint is several days old ( POR Hardnose paint is the same ... it makes me feel sick ... The hardeners must have similar chemicals). I simply AVOID these days.

    If I painted another car I will certainly use the toxic paints though. Only I'd use an air fed mask and home made booth ........ The proviso is I'd leave the car sit for several weeks and not go into the shed it's parked in so it has plenty of time to "gas off" before I start tinkering with it again.

    They really are very nasty chemicals in any activated coating.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
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    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  16. #16
    1000+ Posts driven's Avatar
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    Sand it back so it looks even, then apply car film
    Heat gun and WoW. Comes from China, where else

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  17. #17
    1000+ Posts REN TIN TIN's Avatar
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    A lot of the cost in having a car painted in in the labour and the consumables.
    If you can do most the prep work yourself it will cut a fair slab out of the cost.
    If you have any panel beater friends with a spray booth ask if you can hire it out for a day.
    The workshop is often empty on a weekend and with a booth you can use 2 pack if you want and you won't get bugs or moisture ruining your new paint.
    Most panel beaters are doing it tough some some extra income in renting out an empty spray booth would be welcome.
    It's money for jam for them and if it's cash in hand it's even better.
    Rub your car back at home then take it to the booth to strip down (as necessary), mask off, and apply the paint.
    When it's dry, drive it home.
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  18. #18
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    Hi
    Have you considered vinyl wrap?

    A friend's metallic gold Clio had the same paint flaw as your car. Solution was to go with a satin/matte black wrap - it looked really good and seemed durable.

    Certainly easier than mucking around painting and in reality you won't match the paint unless you do a whole car spray :-)

    cheers
    Jason

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