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  1. #51
    Fellow Frogger! TassieExec's Avatar
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    No, Its located in one of the bolt holes in the mounting flange of the starter motor and protrudes out about 5 mm to locate in a bolt hole in the bell housing, from memory its in the middle mounting hole on a 505 STi starter.
    Regards
    Neil

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  2. #52
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    Kooti Needs Help-starter.jpg
    Hi Every one, thanks for getting back to me.

    Hi Neil, we only had the head off to fix oil leak so engine is back together and with a socket on harmonic balancer bolt will turn by hand.

    Beano, I have attached a photo of the same type of starter which is in my vehicle "photo attached is of starter on a 505 same model as mine that is being wrecked" as you can see the housing on my photo is different to the photo you have attached,. mine has three bolts attaching it, your photo shows only two. Is an Auto starter different to a manual? haven't looked at Headlight as yet will check them tomorrow.

    TassieExec. Thanks, as i said above, only head was removed and since being replaced engine is turning by hand.

    Jaahn. Thanks, I am still in the belief it is a bad earth causing voltage drop, however, unless its an earth from engine to chassis not connected somewhere i have not found as yet, all others have been checked. which brings me back to starter motor which has been checked by two Auto Electricians??

    Very frustrating!!!
    please keep any thoughts and ideas coming, great to have the support.

    I will keep everyone informed of any progress.

    Cheers Kooti

  3. #53
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    Hi Kooti

    Three bolts are normal on a 505 STi starter, manual and auto are the same.

    Regards

    Neil

  4. #54
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    Coming into the thread late.

    I'm wondering if the "voltage drop" is caused by starter jamming because of improper mesh ?

    This will cause the starter to draw excessive current and give similar symptoms to excessive voltage drop.
    Mutual Respect is Contagious


  5. #55
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    Kooti, Sorry if I confused you....the starter I pictured was some other car....I just wanted to arrow the linkage to clarify which linkage it was that you were talking about.

  6. #56
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    Hi Everyone.
    You may have noticed I have been off the air for a while "then again you may not?"
    The starter motor issue was sorted. there is a unit near the stater motor with several wires connected to it, this was not re-connected to the body by the mechanic after the head was replaced, this not being connected was the cause of starter problem as it was found to be an earth for all wires attached, starter issue was because this connection was not earthed!!
    So here I am once again again I am looking for your expertise and knowledge for some information.
    Is anyone able to tell me the difference between a ZE and a ZD engine?
    From my understanding by Dr Google the ZD engine was in the 505 from 85 onward.
    My 505 is an 84, is anyone able to help me with how to tell which engine i have in my 505?
    I think my engine is a ZE but not sure, anyone know how i can check.
    The 505 Haynes manual i have lists two different engine timing settings, one for the ZE engine and one for the ZD engine.
    Does anyone have any diagrams for setting the timing on these engines.
    I won't go into why my car is not yet back on the road and the issues with mechanic doing the job as i would be here all night.
    Appreciate any help.
    Thanks Kooti
    Last edited by Kooti; 6th June 2018 at 10:18 PM. Reason: Editing

  7. #57
    cjl
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    It should be a ZDJ. The ZEJ was not an Australian option.
    1975 504
    1985 505 STI with V6
    1992 505 wagon

  8. #58
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    Thanks cjl.
    I appreciate you getting back to me. As of today the mechanic doing the work for me has gone missing, I went there this morning and his workshop is closed. Needless to say how i am feeling at the moment. My only hope at feeling any better today is if South Sydney Rabbittoh's win the football tonight.
    Thanks again Kooti

  9. #59
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    Hi Kooti
    Sorry to hear of your ongoing saga, hope it all comes together soon, your car is definitely a ZDJ, as cji said the ZE was not available in Australia and is a 2 Lt motor not the 2.2 Lt motor fitted to the ZDJ, the diagrams in your Haynes manual should give you all the info you need. by the way the ZDJ motors were fitted at least as early as 84.
    Regards
    Neil

  10. #60
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    Hi Neal and all.
    I finally have my 505 back. Thank you for the photos of the timing setup. I still has a few issues that i need to attend to. I'm very disappointed in the quality of the work the mechanic has done. It seems the oil leak from the back of the head is no longer a problem, however I now have issues with vacuum line connections and brake booster, is it possible you are able to give me some information on the vacuum line connections from the manifold to the unit which controls heater as this has not been reconnected after the repairs, if you have or can get photos of same it would be greatly appreciated. I'm not sure the brake booster is working properly because of a vacuum leak or it is an issue with the booster itself after sitting for so long. I 'm feeling I will be finding more issues as I go along but at least I have it back.
    Sorry about the rant but as you can guess I found it a very frustrating process.
    Hope you or someone out there is able to help me with the info I need.
    Thanks again for everyone's help through this process.
    Regards James
    Last edited by Kooti; 4th July 2018 at 07:53 PM. Reason: Editing

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    Hi All
    I'm back again looking for more information. Is anyone able to supply me with information plus photos if possible. The things i am looking for is
    Where the Distributor gets its Vacuum from, is it direct from the manifold, does it have reducer in the Vacuum line from wherever it originates from.
    Vacuum line setup for Vacuum Chamber, is there any direct Vacuum line from the chamber to the manifold.
    Econometer connections. from where to where.
    If any one can help me with this info it will be much appreciated.
    I have my 505 back however the mechanic had no idea where the vacuum lines attached to, car is running but not very well and has no vacuum advance, the distributor has a vacuum line attached which has a reducer in it but other end is not attached anywhere, can someone tell me where this hooks up to?
    I know this is lot o ask but if you can help it will get me out of trouble.
    Thanks Kooti
    Last edited by Kooti; 2nd July 2018 at 09:31 PM.

  12. #62
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    Hi Kooti
    Pleased to hear you have your car back and sorry to hear about your bad service from the mechanic, I will get some pictures for you and respond with them and information on the vacuum lines.
    Regards
    Neil

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    Hi all.
    Thanks Neal. I have had a play with car today and seem to have it running in a reasonable way. I have attache some photos which may help with information I am looking for on Vacuum connections. I am unable to get any photos of where vacuum to distributor attaches to the manifold.
    Thanks to anyone who can help

    Kooti Needs Help-vacuum-vacuum-tank.jpgKooti Needs Help-vacuum-connections.jpgKooti Needs Help-mystery-pipe.jpg

  14. #64
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    Sorry all.
    the photo attached shows the "not very clearly" vacuum line from rear of manifold to distributor, is anyone able to tell me if this is correct.

    Thanks KootiKooti Needs Help-distributor-vacuum-manifold.jpg

  15. #65
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    Hi Kooti
    Sorry for the delay in giving you some answers, will try to get photos and explanation soon, unfortunately all the connections shown are incorrect, this so called mechanic has made a real dog's breakfast of it.
    Regards
    Neil

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    Thanks Neal.
    Appreciate your help. Mechanic was supposed to photograph everything before dismantling but i think he failed to do this, very frustrating, considering the time I was without the car. Car is running, however a bit scary to drive, so looking forward to you assistance. At least now I have it back I am able to take the time to correct all the issues.
    Thanks again.
    Kooti
    Last edited by Kooti; 5th July 2018 at 08:19 PM. Reason: Grammer

  17. #67
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    Hi All
    You are right Neal, its a dogs breakfast. had to take it to the exhaust man today as mechanic had not tightened the the exhaust flange and exhaust fumes nearly took me out!!!

    I would like to thank everyone for their helping me sort out my issues with my 505. I think I have now have all the vacuum lines sorted and the car is running so that I am able to drive it. it is running rough but will try to sort that out in the coming weeks. I have been on line trying get information on tuning i.e mixture, idle speed and timing and other such minor issues. I have some information, so at least it's something to keep me occupied.
    Mind you it will be minus 3 here in the morning so will be interested to see how it starts up.

    I will keep everyone updated.

    Regards Kooti

  18. #68
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    Hi Kooti
    Pleased you have made some progress, again sorry for the delay but here is the info you need to have all the vac. lines in the right place:-
    Hose from No1 pipe (Picture 1) goes to T Piece at front left of engine ( Picture 3)
    Hose from No 2 Pipe (Picture 1) goes to T Piece which goes to econometer and Vacuum chamber ( Picture 2)
    Hose from No 4 pipe (Picture 2) goes to the valve at the front right of engine(Picture 3)
    Hose from No 5 pipe (Picture 2) goes to the distributor
    There is also a hose that goes from the warm up regulator, Your picture 3, to the side of the large hose that goes across the top of the motor to the throttle body, your picture 2.
    Hope this helps, if you still have old vac. hoses check carefully for cracks and replace if needed, It's a good i9dea to do this anyway as they are usually getting pretty old and will inevitably cause problems
    Regards
    Neil

    Kooti Needs Help-rimg0106_li.jpgKooti Needs Help-rimg0109_li.jpgKooti Needs Help-rimg0003_li-2-.jpgKooti Needs Help-rimg0002_li-2-.jpg

  19. #69
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    Hi Neal
    Thanks for the photos. Over the time of my dramas with my 505 your help has been very much appreciated.
    Following on from your latest photos, my confusion during the repair process came from my throttle body does not have the same connections on it as the one in the photo. I only have one connection for a vacuum hose and this is the one you have said in your photo is for the Vag connection, there is no other outlet for a vacuum connection to the distributor in this area, I have been told there should be another outlet for a "Your Number outlet" connection to the distributor? however its not there?
    I guess my throttle body must be a different model?
    From your picture below outlet number 5 does not exist on my manifold only have the Vag Port outlet you have described in your photo, this being the case, are you able to help where i get the distributor vacuum from



    Thanks again for all your assistance
    Cheers Kooti

  20. #70
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    Hi Kooti
    That's interesting, I've never seen a throttle body with one outlet, the simplest solution would probably be to run a short hose from No 4 outlet to a "T" Piece with one side going to the distributor and the other to the Vac. connection on the front let of the motor.
    Regards
    Neil

  21. #71
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    Thanks Neal.
    I had already connected through a T piece where I had constant vacuum, however I had been told when connecting vacuum for the Distributor it should only have vacuum when accelerating?

    I found an inline unit that was on the motor originally which should have been re-installed this is a one valve that seems only to give vacuum to the distributor as the vacuum increases when accelerating but unfortunately I have no way to check vacuum increases enough to activate the valve when accelerating?
    The saga continues.
    Also the timing marker attached to the lower part of the timing belt cover is not there, bolt is there but no timing marker, so unsure how the engine was timed. If you or anyone else is able to give me some feedback on this issue I would appreciate it.

    Another question, the mixture adjustment screw seems to be just a hole. The book says there is a a tamper proof cover that is supposed to be removed before you are able to adjust the mixture, however on mine there just seems to be a hole with no cover? is the cover in this hole? or is the mixture able to be adjusted with screwdriver or an Allen key or do I need a special tool.
    Sorry to be a nuisance.
    Thanks again for all the help.
    Kooti
    Last edited by Kooti; 13th July 2018 at 06:14 PM. Reason: Editing

  22. #72
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    Hi Kooti
    I agree you should connect the vacuum to the distributor as you were told, my way will do this.
    Don't worry about the inline one way valve to the distributor as many would not work by now, so just run a hose straight to the distributor, it will work fine.

    You really do need that timing marker plate to time the motor, I will have a look to see if I have a spare one or someone else may have one, from memory the Haynes manual gives instructions for setting this plate up in the right position.

    There is supposed to be a plug in the top of the tube for mixture setting, but most are missing, you need a 3 mm Allen key to adjust it, great care must be taken when adjusting it, only move it a small amount at a time, I have found that if it requires more than about 1/4 of a turn either way, there is usually something else wrong, check Haynes for instructions, if not I could send you some info on this.

    Note. when adjusting mixture take care not to push down on the Allen key, it needs a very light touch, the factory tool is made of alloy.
    Regards
    Neil

  23. #73
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    Hi Neal

    Thanks for your information on mixture and offer of timing marker plate. I have access to a timing marker plate from a person here locally, just have to go and remove from a vehicle he has there. I won be messing with the mixture until after i replace timing plate and I know the timing is right. I have a Haynes manual so will use it to make sure i have the timing plate attached properly.
    I'll get there eventually!!!
    Thanks again for your assistance.
    Kooti

  24. #74
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    Hi Neal
    I tried sending you an email through the Aussie Frogs website but not sure if you would have received it? In the email I apologised to you about the vacuum connections from throttle body.
    Believing the information you had given me to be correct, I went in search of the second outlet, after much searching with torch and mirrors plus much skin missing, I was able to find it. It had been blocked off with a rubber cap for some reason anyway I have now cleared it and hooked distributor vacuum to it, taking your advice I left off the inline valve when connecting, it seems to be working, car is running reasonably OK.
    One thing I have noticed since getting the car back is the choke is now working. it definitely wasn't before the job was done, so I'm guessing this is one plus out of the whole saga??

    Thanks once again
    Kooti

  25. #75
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    Hi Kooti,
    No email yet, try sending a private message, pleased you are making progress, not sure what you mean by the choke? these motors have an auxiliary air valve, see photo, which adds extra air on cold starts, this works in conjunction with the warm up regulator which adjusts fuel pressure for cold or hot running.
    Regards
    Neil
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