Ramps with decent approach angle
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    UFO
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    Default Ramps with decent approach angle

    I have a pair of ramps that I picked up second hand years ago and they serve me well - for the D and the C5 and in the past XM, BXs, CX, Xsara, Hyundai Accent and Mitsu Magna. However...

    They are useless for getting the C4 and previously little UFO's Pug 307 onto. The nose of the C4 sticks out a fair way and is lowish so the wheels do not even contact the start of the ramps before the nose is about to crunch into them.

    They would be about the dimensions of these from Supacheap.
    Stanfred Car Ramp, Single - 750kg - Supercheap Auto

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    This makes mundane work like oil changes or even the recent engine mount replacement a PITA as I have to jack and support the car prior to crawling underneath. Adds up to 30 minutes to the job - then the removal later.

    Does anyone have any clues for a reasonably priced solution? I would LOVE a hoist but do not have funds for one nor the space. Think standard modern two car garage with about 1m extra space on one side, one DS on one side and WAY too much crap filling the other side.

    I AM fortunate that we have a wide flat, concrete driveway so most easy jobs are undertaken there.

    Your opinions welcomed.

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    1000+ Posts renault8&10's Avatar
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    Inspection pit cut into the driveway?
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    Quote Originally Posted by renault8&10 View Post
    Inspection pit cut into the driveway?
    Oh yeah, that'd go over well with Mrs UFO... And to take my height it'd have to be at least 2m deep!

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    Quote Originally Posted by UFO View Post
    Oh yeah, that'd go over well with Mrs UFO... And to take my height it'd have to be at least 2m deep!
    Couple of short hardwood planks, slide into centre ladder of your steel ramps, extend and lower approach - lovely

    Cheers
    Chris
    74 D(very Special) >>Rejuvenation Thread<<
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    "Déesse" Roland Barthes, 'Mythologies', 1957

    The Déesse has all the characteristics of one of those objects fallen from another universe that fed the mania for novelty in the eighteenth century and a similar mania expressed by modern science fiction: the Déesse is first and foremost the new Nautilus.

    (Umberto Eco [Ed], The History of Beauty, Rizzoli, NY, 2004)

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    Quote Originally Posted by UFO View Post
    Oh yeah, that'd go over well with Mrs UFO... And to take my height it'd have to be at least 2m deep!
    Well as long as it's over 2m long, it'd make the perfect burial site for when you upset her then!
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    I have a pair of those Stanfreds, which I use because they are much lighter than my old monster light truck ones and I'm not getting any younger. No problems with the C4, DS3 or C5 at this place.

    First, I fitted rubber blocks under the ramp beginning, to stop the crazy careering out as you descend. (Stanfred can supply them, if needed). This can destroy the overhanging plastic when the car drops. Otherwise put a sandbag in front, but that negates the luggability.

    Second, there are two ways to get up despite the overhang. The dear way is to buy a pair of Stanfred ramp extenders, at almost the same cost. http://www.stanfred.com.au/product-detail.php?pid=17

    Our way is easier. I have some offcuts of 200x50 oregon joists, about 600 and 400 long saved from a building site at no cost. I put these at the base of the ramps and drive onto the timber first. One 50mm lift is enough for the DS3. The C5 prefers two, for a 100 raise. They aren't heavy, and can be kept together in a sack.

    The DS3 has only a tiny quarter undertray to remove and replace, and I find I can do an oil change with a 50mm lift alone, as I can reach in far enough.
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    Quote Originally Posted by seasink View Post
    I have a pair of those Stanfreds, which I use because they are much lighter than my old monster light truck ones and I'm not getting any younger. No problems with the C4, DS3 or C5 at this place.

    First, I fitted rubber blocks under the ramp beginning, to stop the crazy careering out as you descend. (Stanfred can supply them, if needed). This can destroy the overhanging plastic when the car drops. Otherwise put a sandbag in front, but that negates the luggability.

    Second, there are two ways to get up despite the overhang. The dear way is to buy a pair of Stanfred ramp extenders, at almost the same cost.

    Our way is easier. I have some offcuts of 200x50 oregon joists, about 600 and 400 long saved from a building site at no cost. I put these at the base of the ramps and drive onto the timber first. One 50mm lift is enough for the DS3. The C5 prefers two, for a 100 raise. They aren't heavy, and can be kept together in a sack.
    A tip for when the ramps fly away when the car is driven off - tie/fix an old seatbelt strap to one of the rungs, when driving off the ramp the tyre over the strap traps the ramp - lovely. . .

    Cheers
    Chris
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    74 D(very Special) >>Rejuvenation Thread<<
    08 C5 X7 HDi very Noir



    "Déesse" Roland Barthes, 'Mythologies', 1957

    The Déesse has all the characteristics of one of those objects fallen from another universe that fed the mania for novelty in the eighteenth century and a similar mania expressed by modern science fiction: the Déesse is first and foremost the new Nautilus.

    (Umberto Eco [Ed], The History of Beauty, Rizzoli, NY, 2004)

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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenBlood View Post
    A tip for when the ramps fly away when the car is driven off - tie/fix an old seatbelt strap to one of the rungs, when driving off the ramp the tyre over the strap traps the ramp - lovely. . .

    Cheers
    Chris
    An Alan Smith trick that he told us. Did it years ago and never had a problem since - except when trying to reverse a D onto them...

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    Quote Originally Posted by seasink View Post
    I have a pair of those Stanfreds, which I use because they are much lighter than my old monster light truck ones and I'm not getting any younger. No problems with the C4, DS3 or C5 at this place.

    First, I fitted rubber blocks under the ramp beginning, to stop the crazy careering out as you descend. (Stanfred can supply them, if needed). This can destroy the overhanging plastic when the car drops. Otherwise put a sandbag in front, but that negates the luggability.

    Second, there are two ways to get up despite the overhang. The dear way is to buy a pair of Stanfred ramp extenders, at almost the same cost. 750kg Ramp Extensions | Stanfred Metal Products

    Our way is easier. I have some offcuts of 200x50 oregon joists, about 600 and 400 long saved from a building site at no cost. I put these at the base of the ramps and drive onto the timber first. One 50mm lift is enough for the DS3. The C5 prefers two, for a 100 raise. They aren't heavy, and can be kept together in a sack.

    The DS3 has only a tiny quarter undertray to remove and replace, and I find I can do an oil change with a 50mm lift alone, as I can reach in far enough.
    Thanks - well perhaps I should do some measuring of my existing ramps and compare to the Stanfreds. Sounds like they could be different. As SCA has a sale on at present and I can buy a pair for $80 then I should move quick.

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    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UFO View Post
    I have a pair of ramps that I picked up second hand years ago and they serve me well - for the D and the C5 and in the past XM, BXs, CX, Xsara, Hyundai Accent and Mitsu Magna. However...

    They are useless for getting the C4 and previously little UFO's Pug 307 onto. The nose of the C4 sticks out a fair way and is lowish so the wheels do not even contact the start of the ramps before the nose is about to crunch into them.

    They would be about the dimensions of these from Supacheap.
    Stanfred Car Ramp, Single - 750kg - Supercheap Auto

    This makes mundane work like oil changes or even the recent engine mount replacement a PITA as I have to jack and support the car prior to crawling underneath. Adds up to 30 minutes to the job - then the removal later.

    Does anyone have any clues for a reasonably priced solution? I would LOVE a hoist but do not have funds for one nor the space. Think standard modern two car garage with about 1m extra space on one side, one DS on one side and WAY too much crap filling the other side.

    I AM fortunate that we have a wide flat, concrete driveway so most easy jobs are undertaken there.

    Your opinions welcomed.
    sounds horrific ... I'd shift somewhere decent
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    sounds horrific ... I'd shift somewhere decent
    I reckon a caravan in Ballarat in winter sounds pretty good. Add three kids to the mix for extra fun. ;-)

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    Quote Originally Posted by UFO View Post
    An Alan Smith trick that he told us. Did it years ago and never had a problem since - except when trying to reverse a D onto them...
    t'was indeed Alan Smith who passed on this gem. . .

    Cheers
    Chris
    UFO likes this.
    74 D(very Special) >>Rejuvenation Thread<<
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    "Déesse" Roland Barthes, 'Mythologies', 1957

    The Déesse has all the characteristics of one of those objects fallen from another universe that fed the mania for novelty in the eighteenth century and a similar mania expressed by modern science fiction: the Déesse is first and foremost the new Nautilus.

    (Umberto Eco [Ed], The History of Beauty, Rizzoli, NY, 2004)

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    bob
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    G'day,

    lots 'n lots of timber ideas on Google pix, lift the whole lot off the ground with removable centre bits, whatever takes your fancy

    cheers,
    Bob

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    I had a similar problem when I bought a pair of steel ramps from Repco 40 years ago. The type made from welded 1" x 1" angle. I cut off the triangular ramp section, leaving the rectangular stand part that the wheel sits on. I welded in cross-braces on this part to compensate for removing the triangular ramp section. Then I cut off the lower part of the ramp itself and lengthened and strengthened it. I then welded 2 locating pins at the front edge of the stand section, with 2 corresponding holes at the top of the extended ramp, so it reattaches just by dropping it onto the pins. To prevent any risk of it flipping when driven on to, I added a length of chain that runs from under the removable ramp section and hooks onto the bottom front edge of the stand. This gives that added advantage of being able to remove the ramp section once the car is up on the stand section, so they don't obstruct access behind the wheels. (Not sure if you can visualize this).
    I'm still using them.

    I like the seat belt idea. I'll add it to mine.

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    SCA had a deal over the weekend. 2 ramps for $79.98 instead of $120. I've ordered them for store pickup during which I will measure them to ensure the angles are suitable. I reckon they will be based on advice above.

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    $80 is about correct price. Mine cost less. I put the C5 up without blocks or extensions a few hours ago - raise the suspension first.

    The powder coating isn't a rust preventative, so watch any cracks or excessively alkaline degreasers, or you'll have to attend to surface rust. I wouldn't use a ramp with corroded welds.

    PS The ramp rises 190 in 520 going.

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    I used the Stanfreds with the extenders on the 407 with no issue. I used timber through the back of the ramp and tiedowns as well to hold the ramps to stop them wandering off
    Previous
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    Quote Originally Posted by seasink View Post
    $80 is about correct price. Mine cost less. I put the C5 up without blocks or extensions a few hours ago - raise the suspension first.



    PS The ramp rises 190 in 520 going.
    The irony is that the old ramps are fine with the C5.

  19. #19
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    I woldn't bother with the crappy ramps you buy ... just look how incredibly light weight they are ... and how crappy the welds are ( ).

    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/car-ramps...kAAOSw2zZZhqW4

    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/car-ramps...kAAOSwB-1Y0f9H

    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Car-Ramps...gAAOSw5wBZfSNW

    these are the ones I'd be getting

    https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/mick...car/1156053435

    seeya
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    When you fix cars in the driveway, or on the street, or in a basement carpark, you need something portable Shane.

    I agree about the welds in light sections - you don't let them rust, and it doesn't hurt to use jack stands for safety as well.

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    Quote Originally Posted by seasink View Post
    When you fix cars in the driveway, or on the street, or in a basement carpark, you need something portable Shane.

    I agree about the welds in light sections - you don't let them rust, and it doesn't hurt to use jack stands for safety as well.
    From my experience, by the time you drive the car onto portable ramps and fit (belt and braces) jack stands.

    You might have well used the trolley jack in the first place and have improved access to boot.
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    A high lift trolley jack isn't portable either, and you definitely need stands. Mine is rarely used now for this reason.

  23. #23
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    My trolley jack is on wheels. Unlike my ramps which are not.

    https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/J042

    And 18 kg isn't too heavy.
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    Mine's full sized and raises higher but it's too heavy to lift. It has wheels, but I don't live in flat Melbourne. My driveway is 1:4 (mostly). The lightweight ramps have their attraction.

    I also have an an inherited multi-screw telescopic bottle jack, circa 1920, which is very light and has a high lift. It isn't hydraulic and cannot drop on me.

    Even John Brown (Revivemylion) uses a pair of lightweight ramps.

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    I'm tempted to say "nice to know".

    However that would be disrespectful.

    Some of us live on flat land and / or have a flat, concrete floored garage.

    Anyway our vehicle has three years warranty remaining and repairs/ capped service is somebody else's problem.
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