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  1. #76
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    Make sure uuse the silicon very, VERY !!!!!!, sparingly. It was used to fit the lower screen to the 1923 Peugeot Type 175 I owned and every hot day the silicon dripped out of the frame and onto the scuttle below it. Annoyed the **** out of me all the time. I told the bloke in Marseille who bought the car from me about the problem and hope he was able to fix it (maybe they don't get days over 25 so the problem might not arise).

    FLASH

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  2. #77
    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flash Car 76 View Post
    Make sure uuse the silicon very, VERY !!!!!!, sparingly. It was used to fit the lower screen to the 1923 Peugeot Type 175 I owned and every hot day the silicon dripped out of the frame and onto the scuttle below it. Annoyed the **** out of me all the time. I told the bloke in Marseille who bought the car from me about the problem and hope he was able to fix it (maybe they don't get days over 25 so the problem might not arise).

    FLASH
    on door rubbers it wears off over time so it's no biggy

    i use it on many things and every so often i have to go back and give it another hit as it does wear off
    3 x '78 604 SL

    1 x '98 306 GTi6

    1 x secret project

    1 x '98 406 STDT troop carrier and i don't care if it stinks, i don't sniff it's arse Death by wank tank

    1 x '99 406SV 5spd wagon, time to burn more fuel

    1 x 1994 605 SV3.0


    WTD long range fuel tank for 605

  3. #78
    1000+ Posts Wildebeest's Avatar
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    Default 203 door rubbers.

    Quote Originally Posted by pugrambo View Post
    it allows it to slip and mould in better so it doesn't really let it compress anymore just allows the rubber to move into a place where it wouldn't otherwise move to due to the lack of friction between metal/paint and rubber if that makes any sense
    Luthier,
    Wot he said.
    Innox is a good product to use.

    Flash Car76,
    The silicone reccomendation is a spray lube.
    Not to be confused with your sealant type.

  4. #79
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    John,
    The problem was that he used the spray stuff and used it copiously. Being a split screen he used it to slide/ease the glass into the rubber from the top (it had no bar across the top so the glass was "open" to fresh air at the top) and as he had replaced the old plate glass with laminated glass it was thicker and so needed a bit of help. The silicone leaked from each corner every time the weather got a bit hot and this thin greasy green line, which was so hard to remove, ran down the scuttle. Looked b****y awful. I owned the car for over 15 years and it did it the whole time I owned it.
    FLASH

  5. #80
    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flash Car 76 View Post
    John,
    The problem was that he used the spray stuff and used it copiously. Being a split screen he used it to slide/ease the glass into the rubber from the top (it had no bar across the top so the glass was "open" to fresh air at the top) and as he had replaced the old plate glass with laminated glass it was thicker and so needed a bit of help. The silicone leaked from each corner every time the weather got a bit hot and this thin greasy green line, which was so hard to remove, ran down the scuttle. Looked b****y awful. I owned the car for over 15 years and it did it the whole time I owned it.
    FLASH
    you bought the car from Greg ?
    3 x '78 604 SL

    1 x '98 306 GTi6

    1 x secret project

    1 x '98 406 STDT troop carrier and i don't care if it stinks, i don't sniff it's arse Death by wank tank

    1 x '99 406SV 5spd wagon, time to burn more fuel

    1 x 1994 605 SV3.0


    WTD long range fuel tank for 605

  6. #81
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    Yes I bought it from Greg.
    FLASH

  7. #82
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    I've been doing a few things in the lead up to getting the final rubbers for windscreens and the bailey chanel. Once I get that stuff it'll be ready for rego.
    Managed to successfully fit the 406 windscreen washer bottle on the right side where the second battery used to be and it's only got a couple of aluminium brackets to secure it, and drilled the washer nozzle through between the wipers. I had to get under the dash with a 3/4" drill to open up the inside skin so I could get the nut done up on the underneath.
    I scored a 403 heater unit and have got the fan running beautifuly and still have to get the heater core cleaned out by the radiator joint. But it will fit almost exactly between the steering column and the handbrake.
    Plus I've got all the weather strips and the door windows in with a few minor scrapes that had to be touched up. Bugger. Getting the back windows in was an intelligence test that I nearly failed. They had to go in from outside, it was the only way.
    Anyway I've also made some semaphore lenses.
    I had one to work off so I got some 3mm perspex, cut it in 12mm strips and then used the heat gun to bend it to the outside contour. Then using superglue I glued sides on which were thin polycarbonate. Once all together I cut the slots for the end tags with a fine dremil tool.
    They are now in place and will work well, but I'll need to get some of that amber lens paint and just give them a bit more of a clean up. So far they only took a couple of hours so well worth the effort.

    Here are a few pics.










  8. #83
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    Why not try hooking up a string of amber LEDs. Would look great, no paint needed, low amps.
    A little ingenuity required.

    Loved my 203 , sold around 8yrs ago, same colour.

    Cheers, Richard

  9. #84
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    Personally I would paint the unit, but still use a string of LEDS. That way it will look original and as a bonus a simple circuit could make the LEDS automatically flash which would improve safety. Modern drivers don't understand semaphores but understand flashing LEDS hanging out of the car body although today it is under the mirror of course. The other plus is the LEDS would be a lot lighter

    Greg
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  10. #85
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    I think I'll just paint it and leave the old globes in it. The thing is the lifter unit uses so much juice anyway there wouldn't be a huge saving in juice by converting to LED. Combine that with the fact that the light is adequate from that little festoon globe. Added to that, the semaphore is only there for show, because I could. It is not the main indicator system. I have modified the back lights so that the reflector is the flashing indicator. I have also hooked up the cabachon lights that once were parkers as extra flashers.
    These are worked from the stalk on the steering column while the semaphores work from what used to operate the parkers which is now positioned under the dash next to the steering column.
    I figured for daily use I'd have 'normal' flashers but for rallies and showing off, every now and then I'd throw out a semaphore for a laugh.
    It's sposed to be fun driving a 203 isn't it?
    Last edited by luthier; 14th June 2011 at 10:36 PM.

  11. #86
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    Luthier

    I wish I had seen this before you went to the trouble of making new covers. If that red cover is half decent I can swap it for a pair of amber covers in the same condition.

    Send me a PM if interested.

    Tony

  12. #87
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    Brilliant work on the hand-made semaphores!

    ...I could say more but I'd just be rambling...

    Really... fantastic!!!

  13. #88
    1000+ Posts Greg C's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by luthier View Post
    It's sposed to be fun driving a 203 isn't it?
    I had enormous fun in my 203s. Watching this is making me nostalgic. I raced them, camped in them, travelled all over the east coast, took the girl who is now my wife out for our first date.....

    Putting electric screen wash and a heater in is a bit of a worry though. You must be getting a bit soft in your old age like me

    Thanks for sharing

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  14. #89
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    Finally, after waiting just over a month from ordering, I received windscreen rubbers from Hannes Fischer.

    http://www.veteranen-fischer.de/scri...dex.php?lng=en

    Hooray, what a relief. I highly recommend to anyone ordering from him to go the extra for express post.

    Anyway last night after dark I crept over to the workshop and greased up the back screen. It was what some might refer to as a right frontbottom of a job.
    I gave up a couple of times but being kind of tenacious and impatient I got a block of wood to wedge it from inside to keep it vertical and managed to push it down partially engaging the sides. I then used small tyre levers to push it home along the bottom and gradually pulled the cord around the bottom corners to get that lip over onto the outside. However what I hadn't realized was how delicate the rubber is and unfortunately I managed to slightly tear the outer edge of the lip in a couple of places. Damnation. I thought this was going to be perfect. By the time I got to the top it was so tight I had to get an implement in to ease out the lip without the use of the rope. This was achieved with an old stainless kitchen knife that has a squared off end and has long been in service in my toolbag. I broke the end off my favourite spatula first. So with the back screen in, I said to myself that the rope is the main thing that needs all the lubrication. I'm using vaseline. Bright and early this morning, well that's a qualified early, I gets out with the front screen, greased the rope, and having ordered the new screen to be cut 3mm undersize, I slipped it straight in, like a thumb up a bum. Probably was just a tad too easy, but hey, if it doesn't leak or blow in at 100mph I'll be happy. And as it has that metal insert inside there's no chance of the thing blowing in.
    So I got to try out the 406 washers and the wipers and give her a first wash. A very virginal experience indeed. After that I went round and tightened up a few things and went for a little spin up the dirt road. No rattles and ever so much warmer with a screen.
    Still having trouble slamming the drivers door hard enough because of the generic rubbers. And they don't seal too well as it got a few small puddles with that hosing. Will have to see what can be done about that. I likes me a sealed car. Dust, fumes, water, should all be kept out.

    First shot about a week ago before screens.













    Yes I know, the back bumper needs a shot of chrome[ the silver frost and polished bronze overriders are but a daggy temporary solution] and those indicators up front need to be improved. Plus I've got an oil leak from the timing chest so I'll be looking for a seal for that. Any ideas?
    Happily I found the original papers I got with it, showing it registered till May 2009 in NSW so the blue slip should be a tad easier with that info.
    But first I have to fix the back seat which is all sun stuffed along the top[the missus is going to sew a red vinyl pleated top to cover that stuff up, a bit like a headrest], and I need to make new door cards.
    I am going to use 3ply as a backing and will mimic the earlier 49 model with gathered pockets inset through the top layer. I also want to mimic the raised lines with stitching that made them so elegant. I plan to use a backing with thin strips of wood in pockets to achieve this.
    On the troublesome drivers door I think I'll remove the rubbers and glue them flat together with superglue which should reduce the impact required to shut it. However I think some rubber will have to be added to the body around the top and the front curved sections because I can see daylight through there at the moment. When I hosed it I got some water in along the side of the passengers feet area. Not sure how that got in, but I'll be investigating. No carpet can go in till these things are sorted.
    O yeah, and I will be painting the wheels same as the car and fitting whitewalls soon as these tyres wear out.

  15. #90
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    Default 203

    Looks a treat Dan, well done in such a short time .
    all the best for the blue slip

  16. #91
    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    have you tried silicone spray on the rubbers yet ??
    3 x '78 604 SL

    1 x '98 306 GTi6

    1 x secret project

    1 x '98 406 STDT troop carrier and i don't care if it stinks, i don't sniff it's arse Death by wank tank

    1 x '99 406SV 5spd wagon, time to burn more fuel

    1 x 1994 605 SV3.0


    WTD long range fuel tank for 605

  17. #92
    Fellow Frogger! luthier's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pugrambo View Post
    have you tried silicone spray on the rubbers yet ??
    Yes. A bit of a difference. Now the other three doors only have to be slammed. But the drivers door has to be REALLY slammed. It's not acceptable, but I can see how those rubbers will glue internally to make a flat rather than round section. This is more like the originals and should do the trick. I really couldn't be bothered having anything more to do with Spectrum Rubber. I will bag them out at every opportunity. I think they are very stupid business people. They buggered me about for nearly 6 months waiting for screen rubber and bailey channel that was always coming in a week or two but never did, and what they sent me for doors and quarter vents etc. was wrong and sub standard. Plus they sent and charged me for back ordered clips that I'd cancelled 3 times. Then it's up to me to chase them for a refund.
    Last edited by luthier; 16th July 2011 at 10:13 PM.

  18. #93
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    I dont think I've ever replied to a restoration thread, but this is by far the best resto I've seen on here by far!

    Nice work!

  19. #94
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    Thankyou Fandango. I have to tell you though, that photos don't see what my eye can, and there are many imperfections in this car, but I never claimed concourse status and I'll be happy as long as I get to drive it a lot. Windows are a definite improvement.
    Cheers.

  20. #95
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    Our poor old 203 blew a flange gasket on the Saturday trial run before the French Car Day here in Brisbane on Sunday. Needless to say we didn't get there as 1) I didn't want to burn the top of the front pipe by driving it 300+ kms and 2) I spent the day searching for that new flange gasket I put somewhere safe for just this occassion (didn't find it so fixed it with [I refuse to say with what]).
    What has this got to do with your wonderful restoration? ........ in amongst all the junk I found a pair of rear over-riders that some time in the past had been re-chromed so I have decided that they will be yours as a special reward once you have registered the blue beast.
    Just email me when you are ready and include your postal address so I can send them.
    FLASH

  21. #96
    Fellow Frogger! luthier's Avatar
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    Jeez Flash, I don't know what to say. How lovely. I will be honoured, thankyou.

  22. #97
    1000+ Posts Wildebeest's Avatar
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    Default 203 door rubbers.

    I may be going over old ground here but. Further to 'rambo's silicone spray on the door seals. Leave the offending door closed for as long as possible.

    If your new windscreen is laminated please fit seat belts.

  23. #98
    Fellow Frogger! luthier's Avatar
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    Seatbelts are fitted in the front. Still to fit them in the back but it will be done. The door seals were fitted more than a month back and I've kept the doors closed most of that time. It made a difference to the other three when I fitted windows because the extra weight in the door gave it a bit more inertia. Maybe when the door cards are fitted the drivers door will be beefy enough to clonk shut. Yes I can see it will improve with time as the seals compress, but the profile is different to standard, being round instead of flat. Although it's hollow inside the round, there's still a fair bit of extra combined pressure. Maybe I should bolt a lump of wood inside the door as well for 'side intrusion protection' and a bit more weight.

  24. #99
    1000+ Posts Wildebeest's Avatar
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    Default 203..

    Luthier,
    Tolerate me here one more time.
    If possible, drill small holes at intervals around the seals to quickly exhaust trapped air.

    My question re the laminated windscreen and seat belts will no doubt be obvious to you but to the other listener out there. The human head punching a hole through a laminated screen as a result of no belt is not a pretty sight.

  25. #100
    Fellow Frogger! luthier's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wildebeest View Post
    Luthier,
    Tolerate me here one more time.
    If possible, drill small holes at intervals around the seals to quickly exhaust trapped air.

    My question re the laminated windscreen and seat belts will no doubt be obvious to you but to the other listener out there.??? The human head punching a hole through a laminated screen as a result of no belt is not a pretty sight.
    Mate I totally agree on the belts, but I really can't see which is worse between having a million glass shards embedded in yer head or having yer head go through a lam screen. Either way I'd rather die than feel that kind of pain.
    But as to drilling small holes in the rubber, I disagree. It's not the air trapped in there as there's a reasonable gap along the edges. It's merely a matter of rubber pressure from it's spring[iness]. As I said, the original is virtually flat, while this is curved, kind of half moon cross section. That outward bulge is not supported by air, just by itself. I want to glue it flat to itself to get back to a similar profile to original.
    I'll let you know when it's done. The small hole idea would only serve to leave the rubbers in tatters leading to a case of new rubbers anyhow.
    If it doesn't work I'll order the right stuff from Hannes Fischer, like I should have done in the first place.
    This kind of advice is what forums are for.
    Having been through all this I am slowly formulating a number of ways to advise people who come here for advice. First advice is don't buy anything from Spectrum Rubber. I should also say here that at no time before I paid and received the goods did they tell me that any of their shit was not specific to my car. In fact I would not have even known to ask, had I not chanced by Mal Goodwins , who told me how to pull out the centre and how to cut the quarter vent rubbers and showed me what proper weather shield looked like. When I rang and fronted them on this they claimed that they had never said anything they sold was specific to a particular car. Sorry, after around $700 outlaid for this crap I have a right to complain and I will, long and loud.

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