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  1. #51
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Brilliant piccies My daughter kept asking me to take her for a drive up and down the street in one of the old DS's here over easter. Damned if I know why She used to be scared of the old cars.

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  2. #52
    Fellow Frogger! Binky's Avatar
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    I don't really hate Gibsons, I was just having a laugh. I do like it when I'm working on something and think of a part from something totally unrelated and realise it will work perfectly, so nice work there.

    As for heaters, my dad's 203 has a smiths heater in it which would be fairly right for the period. Otherwise, a 404 or 504 heater should fit in there pretty easily. The heater in Binky works great. Once it's warm (3-5 minutes) it warms things up nicely

  3. #53
    Fellow Frogger! luthier's Avatar
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    Thanks Binky,
    Smiths seem to make a fairly wide range of models.
    Is this the model to fit in a 203?


  4. #54
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    The 203 used to have an odd feed for the heater. Came off the block drain plug. You won't have that trouble with your 403 motor. Gordon used to think that the early model with the front air vent could be adapted as a flow through heater but I've never tried. The standard Peugeot heater cores (and that includes the 504) were too fine and used to clog up. No amount of reverse flushing ever got them like new again. A 203 generally has enough unintended flow through ventilation to stop a recirculating heater being stuffy. I was going to put a 403b heater in mine but the box is far too large. It would be nice to have a heater for frosty mornings. They also mist up so badly. I used to drive with one hand, the other warming in my pocket on frosty night runs over the Pentlands.

  5. #55
    Fellow Frogger! luthier's Avatar
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    Interesting what you say about Standard Peugeot heater cores there Russell. It was precisely my experience with the 403's that I owned, that no amount of flushing could make them work properly.
    Because of that, I was very hesitant to get an old 203 heater from French Ebay and it was why I was asking if anyone knew if they were actually any good.
    This leads me further towards my original idea of the Hilux heater, as I know for sure that Jap heaters are almost always very good.
    If it fits and I get that to work I'll show all the fitments as I go so others might have a go as well.
    I'm surprised that you are still suffering without a heater in your car. I would find it intolerable as I've recently injured my arm and often require heat to keep the pain at bay. Not only that, but fogging up would be way too dangerous in many circumstances, not just frosty mornings.
    Also I'm going to go to a bit of trouble to eliminate 'unintended airflow' with new rubbers and grommets and blocking of holes and underfelt and carpets.
    Did I hear of someone with carpet patterns?
    No matter it won't be too difficult to work that out. I have some dressmakers heavy patternmaking card.
    Tonight I got one sill and two doors on. Whooppee!!! Will take photos when I get the trim on the doors.
    Those alloy mudguard edges need a good sanding and polishing. I think they'll need a coat of lacquer as well, once polished, to stop them going black soon afterwards. Any ideas on that?

  6. #56
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    We used to spray them with hair spray after polishing. It doesn't affect the metal and is as hard as whatever. I have also been told to spray it across the leading edges of the bonnet and guards as it makes it easier to remove bugs and stuff but I haven't done that yet.
    At the moment the Carolyn's poor old 203 would be lucky to do 400 miles a year and I don't think it has been in the rain for the last 7 or 8 years let alone driven at night to attract bugs over the front of it.
    FLASH

  7. #57
    1000+ Posts catshamlet's Avatar
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    Default Heater.....

    Have a peep at these..........

    http://www.t7design.co.uk/index.php?...adfc8431298380

    Obviously they're here and you are there, but they might provide a little inspiration. I've never used one, and have no idea how good/bad they are, can't vouch for them etc., etc..



    Mike.
    Started out with nothing, still got most of it left.

  8. #58
    Fellow Frogger! Binky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by luthier View Post
    Thanks Binky,
    Smiths seem to make a fairly wide range of models.
    Is this the model to fit in a 203?


    I don't think there's a particular "right" model of Smiths heater, just that they were a very common aftermarket heater back then. The one you pictured there is more fancy than dad's one...





    Quote Originally Posted by catshamlet View Post
    Have a peep at these..........

    http://www.t7design.co.uk/index.php?...adfc8431298380

    Obviously they're here and you are there, but they might provide a little inspiration. I've never used one, and have no idea how good/bad they are, can't vouch for them etc., etc..



    Mike.

    Now they look fantastic! I would seriously consider going that direction were I in the market for retrofitting a heater

  9. #59
    Fellow Frogger! luthier's Avatar
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    I had a good look at your T7 heaters Mike, and I'm pretty sure I'll use one. They seem to have a lot of things worked out and they're pretty well priced. I like the extra fittings that go through the firewall , providing a neat solution for the water pipe layout, and I'll probably get the modular unit with an outlet on top, with Y fitting to feed the demisters. And a water switch operated by one of the superfluous cables on the dash. Great stuff.
    Thanks so much for that link.

  10. #60
    1000+ Posts catshamlet's Avatar
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    Like I said, I've never used one, and can't vouch for them in any way.

    But If I'd found them three or four years ago I'd certainly have given one a try. Let us know how you get on.



    Mike.
    Started out with nothing, still got most of it left.

  11. #61
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    Congratulations from the Renault camp..........your car looks great.

  12. #62
    Fellow Frogger! luthier's Avatar
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    What a treat to have the Renault response. Thankyou mister Floride.
    So I hope you will enjoy these next lot now that the doors are fitted.
    Wow it's a tricky thing getting those hinges to interlock.
    Managed it almost seamlessly, but still the obligatory chip in the sill on one side. Bugger.
    Can't wait for the next phase, the rubbers and the windows.





  13. #63
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    You will only ever be allowed to view my car at a distance. Or in a dim light. Unrestored so all the blemishes of 60 years. Applies to the owner too.

  14. #64
    Fellow Frogger! luthier's Avatar
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    Russell, I'm sure when you get to see Toots in person you'll notice enough blemishes and probably little dings from sticks and mud and stuff , to make you feel quite comfortable.
    I ain't no oil painting meself. Just an old hippy.

  15. #65
    1000+ Posts catshamlet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Russell Hall View Post
    Applies to the owner too.
    Doubtless it's nothing a dab of moisturiser wouldn't sort out.



    Mike.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 203 in progress-brad_gurn.jpg  
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    The best colour combination I ever saw was on a ?65 Fiat 124-Probably a similar blue & red leather[?] seats. It should look stunning when 'the cook has done her bit.
    i have always queried clear over a solid colour when it was specifically designed for metallic paint & to my observation was never a factory finish over a straight colour-in fact I have seen many a car devalued as the panel shop has put clear over a perfect paint match only to darken the repaired works colour.
    Just an aside -I have never met Dino but is anyone sure that he looks like that?????
    Keep up the good work.

  17. #67
    1000+ Posts catshamlet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pekay49 View Post
    Just an aside -I have never met Dino but is anyone sure that he looks like that?????
    I'm assured he looks even better in black and white photos.



    Mike.
    Started out with nothing, still got most of it left.

  18. #68
    Fellow Frogger! luthier's Avatar
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    I've been fitting rubbers of late. No probs with the quarter vents apart from quite a lot of cutting to fit, when I was expecting to be getting the right thing, but as I got all the door rubbers on the doors became very hard to close. In fact they have to be severely slammed to make the full closure.
    As it is this is unacceptable but I'm hoping the rubber will compress over a small amount of time.
    These rubbers were purchased from Spectrum Rubber and are of generic type. So are all the rubbers they sent me. I am less than pleased about this as it wasn't explained to me before I forked out a fair bit of dough. The door rubbers are made with a piece that has to be torn out, leaving a 'U' or an 'n' depending on how you fix it. Lucky I showed them to Mal as there was no accompanying explanation as to it's use.
    Along the tops of the doors I chose to glue it as an 'n' because I figured the other way would collect water. But looking at original rubber it is a one piece extrusion that has less dimension.
    The outer weather shield that goes on the door windows is a 'T' shape which is different to the original 'L' but having fitted one I'm happy with that.
    Anyone used that generic door stuff? Have I done something wrong or will it eventually become a civilized door close?

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    everyone I know who has used those door rubbers has same problem
    the rubbers take a long time to squash
    a light hollow O section seems to work well or the grey foam pipe insulation cut to suit
    does not look original but works OK
    check that the vertical rubber on the B pillar is not cause of hard door closing
    I used a softer section there it seemed to help

    if you want your screens not to leak advise using a mastic.
    it is possible to add it later either way is messy

    cheers

  20. #70
    Fellow Frogger! luthier's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by alpine View Post
    everyone I know who has used those door rubbers has same problem
    the rubbers take a long time to squash
    Bugger. I spoke to them and they say if it's still like that in a week they'll see whay they can do. Sounds like a refund may be the answer and I'll get the right stuff from Germany. Funny how they forgot to tell me everything was generic till after I'd paid them about $700.

    check that the vertical rubber on the B pillar is not cause of hard door closing
    I used a softer section there it seemed to help
    Doors were closing fine with just that section in place.

    if you want your screens not to leak advise using a mastic.
    it is possible to add it later either way is messy

    cheers
    Yeah I thought so. The originals are all fairly well sealed with some hard grey stuff. I thought I'd just lift the flap and run round afterwards with the mastic. By the way, I'm getting screen rubbers from germany as Spectrum has been saying they'll get them in about a week since about last November. Lucky, I wouldn't want to be dealing with dodgy screen rubbers. Dodgy door ones are bad enough. Nearly a day's work fitting them so far and the same stuff on the boot is just not too good either. It looks like it probably seals but it pushes the lid out so the alignment is worse than I was hoping for. Bugger.

  21. #71
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    as you say, b........... r

    tho not my preferred supplier
    Obriens reckon they have a "better" screen rubber, but they want to install it for $
    they did a mates rear window on early 203 seemed ok to me
    could not see the difference
    cheers

  22. #72
    1000+ Posts Wildebeest's Avatar
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    Luthier,
    Use a silicone spray on your new rubbers to ease closing.
    We used this treatment on new cars when doing pre-delivery. We achieved good flush fitting doors this way.
    Last edited by Wildebeest; 30th May 2011 at 12:11 PM. Reason: dotting 't's.

  23. #73
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    I got the correct section door rubber from Neoretro (France) for my 203 wagon. At 48.50 euros for 14 metres it was nearly half the price Spectrum wanted.

    Still waiting for a windscreen rubber from Spectrum - they said six weeks four weeks ago.

  24. #74
    Fellow Frogger! luthier's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Commerciale View Post
    I got the correct section door rubber from Neoretro (France) for my 203 wagon. At 48.50 euros for 14 metres it was nearly half the price Spectrum wanted.

    Still waiting for a windscreen rubber from Spectrum - they said six weeks four weeks ago.
    Well I've given up on Spectrum and will instead be ordering from here:

    www.veteranen-fischer.de
    They seem to have a lot of good stuff to suit our cars and they have an English section of their website.
    I'm now regretting not getting it all from there.

    Wildebeest,

    Does the silicone spray soften the rubber up to allow it to compress more? I have some and will try that if so, thanks.

  25. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by luthier View Post
    Well I've given up on Spectrum and will instead be ordering from here:

    www.veteranen-fischer.de
    They seem to have a lot of good stuff to suit our cars and they have an English section of their website.
    I'm now regretting not getting it all from there.

    Wildebeest,

    Does the silicone spray soften the rubber up to allow it to compress more? I have some and will try that if so, thanks.
    it allows it to slip and mould in better so it doesn't really let it compress anymore just allows the rubber to move into a place where it wouldn't otherwise move to due to the lack of friction between metal/paint and rubber if that makes any sense
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