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Thread: 2CV Chassis Replacement

  1. #26
    Administrator GreenBlood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gibgib
    Yes I need some tuition & guidance please. I'm relying on you here Chris.
    We are heading to the beach in the morning & having a BBQ for lunch (you are welcome to join in ), after that - sanding.
    ...is that BYO sand??

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    I'll see how the day goes, don't really want to gatecrash your bbq - hope you've got the Lamb chops I'll give you a buzz before I leave work

    Cheers
    Chris
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  2. #27
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gibgib
    Yes I need some tuition & guidance please. I'm relying on you here Chris.
    We are heading to the beach in the morning & having a BBQ for lunch (you are welcome to join in ), after that - sanding.
    Hi Gerry,

    there's only one way to find dents ... Ran your hand over the bonnet, and you'll feel them for sure (this is also the only way to check to see if your repairs are good enough). If it feels flat/level ... it is. If if feels "almost good enough, I can get it any better" and looks good .... It most certainly *not* close enough.

    Chris sounds like he's been there and done that. Where the dents are you'll need to sand back to metal (use something faster ... eg: angle grinder with wires brush/sanding pad).

    seeya,
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    Hi,
    cylinderhead repairers use a dip to clean alloy heads. Maybe brushing/sploshing this stuff on would do the job?
    The Wurth anti corrosion treatment is for bare metal. Once this stuff has fully reacted then it is etchpriming time. Anyhow, this is what my mate does with the vintage cars he restores.
    Cheers

  4. #29
    Local Tyrant gibgib's Avatar
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    I bought an angle grinder wire brush attachment today, haven't used it yet.
    I know it will come in handy when really getting the firewall back to metal. It's a beast

    Cleaning the gearbox again a bit later. I know Super Cheap Auto have an aluminium cleaner that reacts & removes oxidisation from aluminium & stainless steel. It may work on alloy

  5. #30
    Local Tyrant gibgib's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenBlood
    ...bah, call that sanding, rubbish you ain't even started
    You really have to feather out those layers of paint or remove all the paint. As soon as you hit that with primer all dents/imperfections are going to stand out like frogs balls When and only when you are convinced you are close to perfection hit the primer with a guide coat (very broad spay pattern of top coat - any colour, as it too will be sanded away) As you now gently sand, any highs or lows will become very obvious - the lows you will fill with putty sand and repeat the above process.

    I'm working in the morning (at the office) but, if you are home I'd love to drop over for a look??

    Cheers
    Chris
    Well then Greeny,
    As you can see here in the following pics, feathers are not applicable, & in actual fact, this duck will be plucked & be featherless for it's new duco.
    Bare metal is the aim.

    A combination of paint stripper (3X coats) & orbital sander 120 paper to finish the boot off here. Guard has one coat so far of paint stripper. There is less dust & sander noise this way.
    I can see the dents. I can see old bog in the front guard, which also used to be blue!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2CV Chassis Replacement-chassis45.jpg   2CV Chassis Replacement-chassis46.jpg   2CV Chassis Replacement-chassis47.jpg   2CV Chassis Replacement-chassis48.jpg  

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    Hi Gerry,
    Very interesting thread and I will be watching with interest. I think you have cured me of ever wanting a 2CV though. For a 1986 model car that is a scary amount of rust.
    How do you stop the surface rusting while it waits for painting? Anything I've ever stripped to bare metal has started rusting almost straight away. (and the steel you have looks like it had the rust alloyed into it when it was made)

    Jarrod

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    Local Tyrant gibgib's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jarrods
    Hi Gerry,
    Very interesting thread and I will be watching with interest. I think you have cured me of ever wanting a 2CV though. For a 1986 model car that is a scary amount of rust.
    How do you stop the surface rusting while it waits for painting? Anything I've ever stripped to bare metal has started rusting almost straight away. (and the steel you have looks like it had the rust alloyed into it when it was made)

    Jarrod
    Yes I am expecting some rust on it in the morning. I will sand it off keep working on the dents. Hopefully tomorrow arvo it will be smoothe & I can seal it with the etch primer I purchased on Wednesday.

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    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
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    When it gets to bare metal, firstly use "Deoxidine" to treat the metal to prevent immediate rust coating, then hit with the self etch.
    Be sure to have rubber gloves on hand and read the instructions on how to use it.


    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

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    Local Tyrant gibgib's Avatar
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    Hi Alan,
    I couldn't find Deoxidine at Super Cheap. Is that where you got it?

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    No, you'll need a store that sells exclusively paints particularly automotive and preferrably Dulux ICI stuff.
    Many of these "Dulux Paint Centres" handle everything from domeastic to automotive, and they'd be a chance or sometimes a "Paint 'n Paper" store handle it too.
    (I got a bottle here but a bit far to drop it over)



    Alan S
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  11. #36
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    Yeah this distance thing is a problem. I bought a bottle of deoxidine about 12years ago... Still easily 3/4full. That's after painting, 2cv, GS, CX x 2, ID19, etc........ Same thing goes for prepwash, polishes etc...

    Mate I hope you bought a high quality wire brush the grinder ... TAKE IT BACK if it's a cheap chinesse one. Once bitten twice shy... The cheap ones throw there wires while being use. Some I pulled from my legs were a good 5mm deep

    The good ones never lose any of the wire braids, they just wear down to nothing

    seeya,
    Shane L.
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    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

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  12. #37
    Local Tyrant gibgib's Avatar
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    The wire brush attachment doesn't fit my grinder so it's going back anyway, plus the sale on them is over now.

    I have pretty well stripped paint off the left hand guard, with the right partly done now. I won't get a chance to work on the 2cv for 2 weeks so I'll need to sand the rust off should it occur in the iterim.

    Reading the can of Septone etch primer I bought, it recommends putty spray over it shortly after cure otherwise it's adhesive properties may be lost.
    The way it's looking, if I sprayed it today it may be 4 or 5 weeks before I could spray putty over it. Anyway, I haven't even body filled anything yet.

    It's going to be a bit of a juggle sanding back panels, puttying, & keeping the rust at bay while I wait to one shot putty them in one go.
    Thinking about it, I may have to break them up into groups of 3 or more to ensure a good job.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2CV Chassis Replacement-chassis49.jpg   2CV Chassis Replacement-chassis50.jpg   2CV Chassis Replacement-chassis51.jpg   2CV Chassis Replacement-chassis52.jpg  

  13. #38
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    Wow Gerry, your not letting the grass grow from under your feet, great progress well done.

    I've been flat out at home all weekend (setting Mrs GB up with a laptop for work - Probably something you could have done in half the time but she needed it ready for tomorrow).

    Don't be too concerned with the surface rust that may form, a light sand and a hit of Deoxidine (which you will get from the Dulux paint shop on Logan road - I can pick up for you if you like) and your ready for etch, after filling dents of course.

    I'll see if I can organise a compressor ready for the undercoats

    Cheers
    Chris
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    The Déesse has all the characteristics of one of those objects fallen from another universe that fed the mania for novelty in the eighteenth century and a similar mania expressed by modern science fiction: the Déesse is first and foremost the new Nautilus.

    (Umberto Eco [Ed], The History of Beauty, Rizzoli, NY, 2004)

  14. #39
    1000+ Posts BogMaster's Avatar
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    Gerry this stuff is supposed to be brilliant:

    http://www.ppc.au.com/
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    Now that I have eventually caught up on Gerry's story about how to rebuild a 2CV that was originally constructed in Swiss Cheese...

    It reminded me of a recent car club party discussion (riveting stuff this) about how molasses is a great rust remover. Being the sometimes sceptic I am, I went googling. Found many references, but these are the best ones so far:

    http://www.moreg.org.au/dissolving_rust.htm

    http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/ru...t_molasses.htm

    So it works. The first link actually explains why and it makes sense. So, everyone down to the local feed store!

    I don't know whether it will help the 2CV but it is good for future reference.

    BTW Gerry, looks like you are having a GREAT time and doing a great job. Don't get GB over, he'll want to drink to much red wine!

  16. #41
    Local Tyrant gibgib's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenBlood
    a light sand and a hit of Deoxidine (which you will get from the Dulux paint shop on Logan road - I can pick up for you if you like) and your ready for etch, after filling dents of course.

    I'll see if I can organise a compressor ready for the undercoats

    Cheers
    Chris
    I tried to get some deoxidine on Saturday but Dulux had just closed, 10:30am!!
    What do you think about breaking up batches of panels to spray putty?

    Bogmaster, if that stuff is as good as they say it is, it's gotta to be the product of the century!
    Almost too good to believe. I will buy some of it for the floor panels (both sides) & may even use some in some rust prone areas of the body such as around the tail lights & that fold underneath, even the bonnet hinge & whole firewall.
    Thanks for the link.

    I was told if you had cancer (body) you could go on a blackstrap molasses diet, ie only eat the stuff & purified water, you could kill off the cancer by making your body alkaline. Who knows if that works

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    I'll second that on the POR stuff on the ppc website. The stuff that you can paint onto a rusty surface and dries as hard as enamel does what it says and has come in handy. The POR stuff can be a bit expensive though.
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  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by gibgib
    I was told if you had cancer (body) you could go on a blackstrap molasses diet, ie only eat the stuff & purified water, you could kill off the cancer by making your body alkaline. Who knows if that works
    Interesting as molasses contains acetic acid which is what does the rust removal. How it would make your body alkaline BTCOOM.

  19. #44
    Local Tyrant gibgib's Avatar
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    Back into it today after a week at the WhitSundees

    I'm aiming for every panel back to metal by Friday, we'll see how that pans out.

    There are a few items soaking tonight in bleach to clean them up. The windscreen washer bottle & fuse covers are white again.

    The right hand guard is pretty well paintless now as is the left hand rear guard.
    Tomorrow to do the right hand rear guard & start on the bonnet, which I removed all accessories from today like bonnet catch, grill, etc.

    Note the rust already forming on the previously sanded panels.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2CV Chassis Replacement-chassis53.jpg   2CV Chassis Replacement-chassis54.jpg   2CV Chassis Replacement-chassis55.jpg   2CV Chassis Replacement-chassis56.jpg  

  20. #45
    Local Tyrant gibgib's Avatar
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    I'm going the molasses trick for all my nuts, bolts & other discoloured metal parts that will fit into a plastic crate that I'll use to stink out the neighbours!
    The Gayndah boys use it (G'day if you are reading this ) & the results spoke for themselves.
    Where to buy it? Health food shop?
    I'd need to make up probably 60 litres worth at mix 5 to 1 or so.

    Also decided to prepare all the panels up until top coat ready stage & take them to a spray painter for 2 pack job. The guy will charge for the paints & $30 per hour to spray it on..
    I couldn't help feeling with this project that I would be doing it second rate by going all this way & then doing it in acrylic. It is giving me even more enthusiasm knowing it will be painted now by a professional as well.

    A trip to Gayndah & now 2 pack paint proposition has stepped this restoration quality up a few notches for me so I'm making extra effort to make sure all components of this 2CV are cleaned/ painted if neccessary, & even replaced where needed.

    Today I sanded the left rear guard & started paint stripping the bonnet.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2CV Chassis Replacement-chassis57.jpg   2CV Chassis Replacement-chassis58.jpg   2CV Chassis Replacement-chassis59.jpg   2CV Chassis Replacement-chassis60.jpg  

  21. #46
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    Gerry you are really making me want to start work on the D soon. I think though I will get a rough panel off my rapidly falling apart (grass growing inside it!) D and practice a bit or lot first.

    You could probably get molasses in quantity from a rural produce/horse store. Mind you, you DO live in Qld, and one of the major primary products of Qld is? So I reckon you should be able to track it down somewhere.

    Now I wonder, if you took some bits up to Bundy and dropped them in the tanks for a while....

  22. #47
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    Holy shmmokes Gerry, you don't mess around do you

    Youv'e really done Dolly proud on Valentines day

    Hey... did I see a lime green C2 drive straight past the office today If gibgib won't come to the GB I guess the GB will have to visit gibgib

    Cheers
    Chris
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    "Déesse" Roland Barthes, 'Mythologies', 1957

    The Déesse has all the characteristics of one of those objects fallen from another universe that fed the mania for novelty in the eighteenth century and a similar mania expressed by modern science fiction: the Déesse is first and foremost the new Nautilus.

    (Umberto Eco [Ed], The History of Beauty, Rizzoli, NY, 2004)

  23. #48
    Local Tyrant gibgib's Avatar
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    Did you see me look in?

    I was visiting "old mate" next door, he was quite friendly this time & it blew my time budget.
    You really need to visit me old son.

    Although it doesn't look like I will be the one to paint this car, I am considering the purchase of a half decent air compressor for the spray putty application & for future use for a Traction full resto when I have the space after the move north. I also need to find the right Traction!

    I would also like to use some pressure to get lanolin right into the nooks & crannies after it's all back together.

  24. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by gibgib
    I would also like to use some pressure to get lanolin right into the nooks & crannies after it's all back together.
    Yes, but how are you going to rustproof the car

    You Qlders really do some kinky stuff!

  25. #50
    Local Tyrant gibgib's Avatar
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    I meant to say cane toad emulsion. Lanolin is more a K1W1 thing

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