Citroen ID 19 1961 model almost there BUT......
  • Register
  • Help
Page 1 of 2 12 Last
Results 1 to 25 of 50
  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! caparobertsan's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    SOUTH MORANG
    Posts
    793

    Default Citroen ID 19 1961 model almost there BUT......

    Hello, everyone
    My car is almost ready.
    I have assembled cooling system and hydraulic suspension system. So I was ready to start motor once again.
    But at first go it did not start, starter motor was not engaging flywheel. Same fault as before! So took out starter and noticed front gear drive was sticking, no good. So WD 40 did the job.

    Now motor started noisy because no exhaust system is attached yet.

    Front side of is up on the stand so when I engaged gear wheel would turn.

    Advertisement


    I have questions.
    1) I do`nt see break is working at all is that because wheel is not on the ground? I do`nt feel any pressure from break pedal at all.
    2) I see only driver side wheel is turning is that because wheel is off the ground?

    Please let me know.

    Thank you.

  2. #2
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aust.
    Posts
    16,424

    Default

    I'm not quite sure what your asking. However it is entirely normal that if you lift one front wheel, only that wheel will spin and the car will not move. Unless of course your car has a limited slip or locking diff fitted ( 4wder's fit these so they don't get bogged with one wheel on each axle spinning).

    If you mean the brakes aren't working on that wheel. That is wrong, the brakes should always work on all wheels. You need the hydraulic pressurised or you will have no brakes at all ( this is correct for all hydraulic Citroens).

    If you have fitted up rebuilt brake calipers, you need to pull the handbrake on a number of time to wind the clockwork mechanism down and take the slack out before the hanbrake works.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/citro%EBn-forum/90325-best-project-car-you-have-ever-seen.html
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    9,774

    Default

    I'd always jack both wheels as I never assume the diff will turn only the one wheel. If you are unsure of the brakes, it may transfer the power to the wheel on the ground and drive it off the stands. Jack both wheels or remove the wheels to be safe.

    If you raise the car and leave it idling in neutral, you'll usually see the wheels turn slowly due to drag of parts in the gearbox. That's normal. Applying the brakes, regardless of whether the car is raised or not, should stop all wheels immediately. If not, you have a problem to resolve before you try to drive it anywhere.

    Will the suspension self level correctly? That is, in neutral and selecting the various heights, then holding it up or down. I think your car has the later style high pressure brakes???. If so and it self-levels, then it should at least have fluid pressure available to the brake circuit.

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Castlemaine VIC
    Posts
    355

    Default height corrector

    You have messaged me that you need a height corrector. You say that the front height corrector is leaking. Is the height corrector still working that is: raising and lowering the front with the height lever "action". Or is it totally dead! At this stage I am leaving the height correctors in the cars that are mobile. I have one that came out of a car years ago, but I don't know the condition of it.
    I did work on restoring two of them when the Canola Oil destroyed them, so they are repairable.
    Is it possible to buy replacement parts or a new LHS Height Corrector. Maybe somebody has this information.
    Have you managed to get the brakes working. Ofcourse you need to bleed the brakes and undo the "pressure release" on the regulator, and then retighten it. This will result in fluid pressure without air in the lines. Michael

  5. #5
    IWS
    IWS is offline
    1000+ Posts IWS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Hawthorn East, Vic.
    Posts
    1,319

    Default

    In your post Carporobertsan, you say that there is no pressure at all at the brake pedal. Have you, as another poster has suggested, bled the brake lines? Your description of the "no pressure" does suggests that air in the brake lines may be the problem.

    Ian.

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger! caparobertsan's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    SOUTH MORANG
    Posts
    793

    Default

    Thanks everyone.
    I have assembled exhaust system( some how because shorter than before..!!!) and motor runs! Car goes up and down when I move the side lever. Pushed front and it goes down( quite soft!) and goes up and rear one is same but much harder than front.

    I can see some water is dripping from shaft of water pump and top corner of radiator!!!! Radiator is easy to come off but water pump is annoying because I used sealer silicon for permanent bond!!!

    And height corrector need to be repaired for sure( Front/ Rear!)


    I think break might be ok( need to be bleed of course!), pedal is really hard to press but It does go down( much harder than modern car!)

    So once again, I need to look for parts and find some time to fix.

  7. #7
    VIP Sponsor richo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Hobart, the other planet
    Posts
    1,445

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by caparobertsan View Post
    Thanks everyone.

    I can see some water is dripping from shaft of water pump and top corner of radiator!!!! Radiator is easy to come off but water pump is annoying because I used sealer silicon for permanent bond!!!


    So once again, I need to look for parts and find some time to fix.

    The water pump is leaking through one or more of the following conditions
    1. Water pump shaft is corroded. Original shafts are hard chromed.
    2. Water pump seal is hard (probably cracked) and no longer seals to face of pump or shaft
    3. Water pump body internal sealing face is corroded or porous.

    All three of these conditions can occur with a used water pump which has not been used for a considerable time or not "reconditioned" correctly.

    I have seen shafts "polished" so you couldn't see the corrosion, painted on the sealing face.
    The bodies corrode on the sealing face and require machining when rebuilt. Quite often these pump body faces they were also porous and filled with an epoxy.

    A used water pump which "wasn't leaking before it was removed", or " had a new seal in it" probably suffers one of the other conditions described above in point form.

    Hope this helps.

  8. #8
    VIP Sponsor richo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Hobart, the other planet
    Posts
    1,445

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by caparobertsan View Post
    Thanks everyone.
    Car goes up and down when I move the side lever. Pushed front and it goes down( quite soft!) and goes up and rear one is same but much harder than front.

    So once again, I need to look for parts and find some time to fix.
    Quite likely the rear spheres, or if one is soft, then the hard one is DEAD and requires rebuilding.

    Soft push up and down means a good sphere. Hard is bad.

    Hope this helps.

  9. #9
    VIP Sponsor richo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Hobart, the other planet
    Posts
    1,445

    Default

    Keep going, you're patience will pay off.

    Carefully crafted, thoughtful photographs can produce images of beauty.

    I will help where I can, please contact me via website.

    Congratulations on your progress so far.

  10. #10
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aust.
    Posts
    16,424

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by caparobertsan View Post
    Thanks everyone.
    I have assembled exhaust system( some how because shorter than before..!!!) and motor runs! Car goes up and down when I move the side lever. Pushed front and it goes down( quite soft!) and goes up and rear one is same but much harder than front.

    I can see some water is dripping from shaft of water pump and top corner of radiator!!!! Radiator is easy to come off but water pump is annoying because I used sealer silicon for permanent bond!!!

    And height corrector need to be repaired for sure( Front/ Rear!)


    I think break might be ok( need to be bleed of course!), pedal is really hard to press but It does go down( much harder than modern car!)

    So once again, I need to look for parts and find some time to fix.
    Whoah .... You haven't had a hydraulic 'cit before right You don't need to stand on the brake button, it's only a valve that opens allowing high pressure into the braking system. It doesn't really move unless you have no pressure in the brakes.

    The H/C's will likely be fine, whip 'em off and clean all the crap out. They likely won't leak if you wire brush all the corrosion away from the sealing edge ( 'richo put me onto these... a brilliant wire bush for this task. http://www.machinerycleanery.com ). Best bet is to find some LHM height correctors and swap your boots onto them (this may have already been done for you in the past either way).

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  11. #11
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Castlemaine VIC
    Posts
    355

    Default height corrector

    I have a couple of height correctors. I fixed one some years ago, so it should come back to me. On your 27 page thread Shane, do you cover removing one from your car, and bringing it back to life -------- or is there a thread on this forum that describes the repairing of a height corrector. From memory, the crucial part of a height corrector is the "diaphram", if I can call it that. The rubber on the outer part splits. I'll have to read up on it.
    I agree with you that it is vital to clean it all.
    If I can get one of these working, then I can get it to Kaz. He certainly is hanging in there!

  12. #12
    Fellow Frogger
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    9,774

    Default

    ... and it should be filled with fluid after the overhaul according to the manual. I wasn't aware of this and failure to do so will allow the corrector to be initially very sensitive, but it should eventually bleed itself. The manual has a clear step-by-step overhaul procedure.

    If the car self-levels correctly, why does it need replacing? Did I miss something?

  13. #13
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Castlemaine VIC
    Posts
    355

    Default it's leaking

    David S has a point. Kaz; Is the leak coming from the body of the height corrector, or from one of the connections. Maybe one of the rubber inserts has deteriorated which seats the pipe connection.
    I'll get the manuals out and dismantle a height corrector and familiarise myself again.
    I need to clean the one up from the Safari, so I could swap one over to make sure it works.

  14. #14
    Fellow Frogger! caparobertsan's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    SOUTH MORANG
    Posts
    793

    Default

    No it is leaking from one side of corrector. I can see internal membrane is split as well as outer dust cover. I will pull out and clean them. I have sheen someone`s had laid all the washer and rings in correct order so I can see that site if If I could not take photos.

    I will let you all know the out come. But I hate removing them because It loose too much fluid(30.00 bottole rr343!) and Paint will come off again~!~!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  15. #15
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aust.
    Posts
    16,424

    Default

    Ok,

    now the important bit, verify the rubber is just aged deteriated. Swollen and mushy is terrible, terrible news.... infact the worse news I can think of where brake fluid hydraulics are involved.

    If it's just the seals, don't worry, I"m sure I'll have some seals and dust boots here. I'll chase up some "unrusty" seal clamping rings from CX height correctors if there badly rusted on your car.

    With the brake fluid hydraulics here, I find the seals tend to by soft and malleable still ... now even 50years later *** IF *** they haven't been contaminated.

    Oh gee's I've just realised I gave you bad advice above too. Your ID19 is a '61, you don't have high pressure brakes so ignore my comments up there .... This also means you may have natural rubber seals in the height correctors. The ones I have here will be EPDM, so will likely be in much better condition.

    Let me know what you need and I'll drop them into an envelope. Sorry I have no good height correctors though, they are all corroded brake fluid ones. CX height correctors (that I have plenty of) can't be used as they have smaller line attachments.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  16. #16
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aust.
    Posts
    16,424

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by IDear View Post
    I have a couple of height correctors. I fixed one some years ago, so it should come back to me. On your 27 page thread Shane, do you cover removing one from your car, and bringing it back to life -------- or is there a thread on this forum that describes the repairing of a height corrector. From memory, the crucial part of a height corrector is the "diaphram", if I can call it that. The rubber on the outer part splits. I'll have to read up on it.
    I agree with you that it is vital to clean it all.
    If I can get one of these working, then I can get it to Kaz. He certainly is hanging in there!
    I'm sure I've done thread on it in the past ............. How to find them though

    They are a simple device, removal is obvious.

    -peal the dust boots off
    -unscrew at least one side of the slide valve
    -pry the rings off the clamp the seals to the height corrector. These may well be heavily rusted and stuck to the seals on a brake fluid car.
    -peal the seals back off the height corrector.... yes be horrified by the corrosion in the seal recess of the heigh corrector body.
    -the unscrewed end should pull off, if it's an early height corrector you will have no fast reaction valve, so you can just pull the seal off the other side and the slide valve will withdraw with the seal
    -if there is a fast reaction valve there (most will have this .. infact most will probably already be a converted later LHM height corrector). Anyway, pull the circlip and remove the washer and spring. the slide valve will now withdraw.
    -take a good look at the height corrector body. Be horrifed at the sh!t that resides in there, the think "bugger me, look at all the corrosion"..... Now find yourself an LHM height corrector to replace it with.

    Don't forget to cut a slot into an M5 bolt with a 4" angle grinder and remove the brass "screw head" and pull the stack of miniscule bits out from behind and clean them.

    I've never bothered "filling" a height corrector prior to refitting. It's fun watching how fast the car corrects it's height for a time until the corrector self bleeds

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  17. #17
    1000+ Posts michaelr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,393

    Default

    Shane's post covers it well but there is a bit more, including illustrations on Mark Bardenwerper's site here:

    http://citroen.cappyfabrics.com/Citroen/Rebuild_HC.pdf
    Michael
    Member, Citroen Car Club NSW

    DS23 Pallas 5 sp. "Francoise" , BX19TRi Auto "Jacques Dutronc" , Teardrop Trailer "The Toad", BMW R65 "Rosamund"
    In the past: Renault 750, Dauphine, R4, R8, R10, Peugeot 504 Familiale, ID 19 (x2), Safari (x2)

  18. #18
    VIP Sponsor richo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Hobart, the other planet
    Posts
    1,445

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by David S View Post

    If the car self-levels correctly, why does it need replacing? Did I miss something?
    The customer David, the customer.
    Here's your car sir, all done.
    ....
    Around the block they go, the car over correcting and they return to the dealership, ready to sue (the old word for litigation) you.
    Of course, after a number of suspension operations, the over sensitivity diminishes and all is welll with the world.

    When the height corrector is assembled dry, the damper valve does not damp. The valves and shims require fluid to operate as a damper, the way it was intended.
    There is only a millimetre or two of movement between inlet and exhaust at system pressure.
    This requires damping.

    Hope this helps.

  19. #19
    VIP Sponsor richo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Hobart, the other planet
    Posts
    1,445

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post

    Let me know what you need and I'll drop them into an envelope. Sorry I have no good height correctors though, they are all corroded brake fluid ones. CX height correctors (that I have plenty of) can't be used as they have smaller line attachments.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    CX correctors can be used. The only important part is the spool valve piston and cylinder.
    Apart from the thread pitch on the end, the spool piston is the same, the spool cylinder is the same outer diameter. There is another minor difference which can be made good.
    Think about how it might be achieved...

    Unless you are equipped to test the correctors properly by performing the factory leak down test, you can't be sure the corrector is any good.
    After testing 50+ of those little puppies, I can assure you very few pass the standard.

  20. #20
    Fellow Frogger! caparobertsan's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    SOUTH MORANG
    Posts
    793

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    Ok,

    now the important bit, verify the rubber is just aged deteriated. Swollen and mushy is terrible, terrible news.... infact the worse news I can think of where brake fluid hydraulics are involved.

    If it's just the seals, don't worry, I"m sure I'll have some seals and dust boots here. I'll chase up some "unrusty" seal clamping rings from CX height correctors if there badly rusted on your car.

    With the brake fluid hydraulics here, I find the seals tend to by soft and malleable still ... now even 50years later *** IF *** they haven't been contaminated.

    Oh gee's I've just realised I gave you bad advice above too. Your ID19 is a '61, you don't have high pressure brakes so ignore my comments up there .... This also means you may have natural rubber seals in the height correctors. The ones I have here will be EPDM, so will likely be in much better condition.

    Let me know what you need and I'll drop them into an envelope. Sorry I have no good height correctors though, they are all corroded brake fluid ones. CX height correctors (that I have plenty of) can't be used as they have smaller line attachments.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Thanks Shane!~! I just printed the section how to remove H/C. Front one was clear but rear one I was not sure as I do`nt see any bolts out side but book said " inside boot" So it is clear now.

    I contacted Citro and He said he might have some rubber but not for sure. I need to take them and show to him.

    So you have good internal membrane rubbers? I think I need 4( front and rear) yes? Do you have dust covers as well?
    I also need to repair water pump because water is dripping! Have you overhauled old type water pump? I remember seeing front side and there is a special retaining nut with slot so I need special tool. but if I remove it does the impeller and shaft just comes out easily? or shaft must be hit and push out?
    Thanks for your comment!

  21. #21
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aust.
    Posts
    16,424

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by caparobertsan View Post
    Thanks Shane!~! I just printed the section how to remove H/C. Front one was clear but rear one I was not sure as I do`nt see any bolts out side but book said " inside boot" So it is clear now.

    I contacted Citro and He said he might have some rubber but not for sure. I need to take them and show to him.

    So you have good internal membrane rubbers? I think I need 4( front and rear) yes? Do you have dust covers as well?
    I also need to repair water pump because water is dripping! Have you overhauled old type water pump? I remember seeing front side and there is a special retaining nut with slot so I need special tool. but if I remove it does the impeller and shaft just comes out easily? or shaft must be hit and push out?
    Thanks for your comment!
    I haven't needed to touch a pump yet. I think Richo has rebuilt them and posted on this topic in the past if your search.

    Yes I should have H/C seals here. They seem to last forever unless contaminated on brake fluid cars. Dust boots I can pull from CX height correctors if you dont' have any.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  22. #22
    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Camperdown 3260 Australia
    Posts
    3,068

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by caparobertsan View Post
    I also need to repair water pump because water is dripping! Have you overhauled old type water pump? I remember seeing front side and there is a special retaining nut with slot so I need special tool. but if I remove it does the impeller and shaft just comes out easily? or shaft must be hit and push out?
    Thanks for your comment!
    The ring nut ( D 324-82) must be undone ( notice the semi circular gripping points on the inner diameter of the ring nut) and the bearing knocked forward to release the locking half collars (472394/02) from their retainer(D 314-140). Once they are out the shaft is pushed rear ward to remove. You will notice a spring loaded carbon compound face seal. ( 456399 It is identical to the ones fitted on later tractions) The face against which this seal rubs must be smooth. A new seal should be fitted as the carbon face is probably worn so that the spring cannot provide enough tension on the seal face. Replace the front bearing (620111) and check that the rear bronze bush (3298s) is not worn or that the shaft (DF 231-3) at this point is not pitted. If it is they will need replacing, if the parts can be obtained. If not you will require the services of an engineering shop.
    Cheers Gerry
    PS sorry for the poor quality diagram-----I was running out of ink to print and scan it, so I could turn a PDF into a Jpeg.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Citroen ID 19 1961 model almost there BUT......-water-pump-id.jpg  
    Last edited by gerrypro; 7th August 2012 at 02:23 PM.

  23. #23
    VIP Sponsor richo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Hobart, the other planet
    Posts
    1,445

    Default

    Yeers, I've rebuilt them, and made a better version of the special tools required.

    Problem in rebuilding is buying new shafts, finding decent impellors and machining the water pump body. To have a shaft hard chromed here, I was quoted $240+GST. Clearly the bloke wasn't interested in doing the work.

    The original factory shafts and associated parts were well made.
    However, even a NOS pump would probably require dismantling and a new seal put in place. It would be 50 years old.

    I've seen them for sale in France.

  24. #24
    Fellow Frogger! caparobertsan's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    SOUTH MORANG
    Posts
    793

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gerrypro View Post
    The ring nut ( D 324-82) must be undone ( notice the semi circular gripping points on the inner diameter of the ring nut) and the bearing knocked forward to release the locking half collars (472394/02) from their retainer(D 314-140). Once they are out the shaft is pushed rear ward to remove. You will notice a spring loaded carbon compound face seal. ( 456399 It is identical to the ones fitted on later tractions) The face against which this seal rubs must be smooth. A new seal should be fitted as the carbon face is probably worn so that the spring cannot provide enough tension on the seal face. Replace the front bearing (620111) and check that the rear bronze bush (3298s) is not worn or that the shaft (DF 231-3) at this point is not pitted. If it is they will need replacing, if the parts can be obtained. If not you will require the services of an engineering shop.
    Cheers Gerry
    PS sorry for the poor quality diagram-----I was running out of ink to print and scan it, so I could turn a PDF into a Jpeg.
    So basically Can I push out the shaft if I remove The ring nut ( D 324-82) ??? but 456399 looks attached to the shaft. And if so 3298s must come out together?

  25. #25
    Fellow Frogger! caparobertsan's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    SOUTH MORANG
    Posts
    793

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by richo View Post
    Yeers, I've rebuilt them, and made a better version of the special tools required.

    Problem in rebuilding is buying new shafts, finding decent impellors and machining the water pump body. To have a shaft hard chromed here, I was quoted $240+GST. Clearly the bloke wasn't interested in doing the work.

    The original factory shafts and associated parts were well made.
    However, even a NOS pump would probably require dismantling and a new seal put in place. It would be 50 years old.

    I've seen them for sale in France.
    Yeah, I know couple of people selling them on ebay. It cost 300.00 EUR at least. Overhauling any part in the car seems pretty simple but spare parts are very very hard or impossible. Even German Citroen specialist is no very good. LHM car parts are still easy to get from them.....

Page 1 of 2 12 Last

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •