New Xantia Strut Tops
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  1. #1
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    Default New Xantia Strut Tops

    Parts arrived this morning from Paradise Garage Sydney including new strut tops.
    They were $303 per side and a good insurance policy I think!

    Also a reco steering rack pinion from Martin Bray Adelaide so will have some work on this weekend

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    Quote Originally Posted by CUB_075 View Post
    Parts arrived this morning from Paradise Garage Sydney including new strut tops.
    They were $303 per side and a good insurance policy I think!

    Also a reco steering rack pinion from Martin Bray Adelaide so will have some work on this weekend
    Very good insurance. Hard to get Series 1 bonnets...

    We replaced ours at 12 years and the old ones looked perfect. Problem was, I didn't feel "perfect" driving whilst wondering when/if they'd let go.

    Good move I reckon.
    JohnW

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    do you this is an age or kms determinant? Anyone want to guess the best recommendation for replacement time?


    Adrian

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    Quote Originally Posted by IE23 View Post
    do you this is an age or kms determinant? Anyone want to guess the best recommendation for replacement time?
    I don't think there can be a km or years criterion. Think about the pain and suffering when they let go!

    If the car is treated well, not driven with flat spheres etc, I reckon they'd last a long time, as do BX strut tops. They do fail sometimes at 300,000 km+ and 20 years+. Much lighter car of course.

    What you can do, taken from a thread here many years ago, is run a broomstick across the mudguard tops regularly and see whether there are early signs of impending failure by measuring down to the top of the strut. If that distance changes, do the change.

    I wanted peace of mind and was planning to keep the car, so had no reason to push it and 12 years seemed a reasonable life. I wasn't sure about long term availability of the replacement parts, but that isn't an issue I don't think.
    JohnW

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    I push a Xantia very hard. Overload, overspeed, offroad... I've even hit a pig with it. My S2 strut tops at 230K have ever so slight cracking in the rubber gusseting below.

    Personally I think the rubber slightly hardens over time and this degrades ride quality with increased NVH. However I am not worried about the Series 1 problem.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails New Xantia Strut Tops-nearside_strut_top_1a.jpg   New Xantia Strut Tops-nearside_strut_top_1b.jpg  

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    Addo do you have a 4 or a 6?


    Adrian

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    16V, non-Hydractive.

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    Quote Originally Posted by addo View Post
    I push a Xantia very hard. Overload, overspeed, offroad... I've even hit a pig with it. My S2 strut tops at 230K have ever so slight cracking in the rubber gusseting below.

    Personally I think the rubber slightly hardens over time and this degrades ride quality with increased NVH. However I am not worried about the Series 1 problem.
    All of which shows the basic engineering is pretty robust. I'd have thought harder rubber would tend to give greater transmission of high frequency stuff, that is small irregularities, rather than a noticeable ride deterioration.
    JohnW

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    It'd be marginal change at best; too many other things going on at the same time for stating a definitive outcome - sphere pressures changing, different tyre compounds/aspect ratios/pressures, possibly different proportions of driving duties.

    From my own experience, the weakest link in a Xantia chassis is the "P" bushes. When I posted about the cracking on French Car Forum, at least two other members had experienced the same - one on a factory-original arm that wasn't abused.

  10. #10
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    Hi everyone,

    Changed the strut tops today and have to say a good thing I did! The left side looked ok but the drivers side rubber had small crack marks and started coming away from the side, they were also raised up so would have failed in a matter of time.
    They are the original one's and had done 180,000km's which is a good effort. They are the later type as well.

  11. #11
    JBN
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    Can you post some photos?

    John

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    Quote Originally Posted by addo View Post
    It'd be marginal change at best; too many other things going on at the same time for stating a definitive outcome - sphere pressures changing, different tyre compounds/aspect ratios/pressures, possibly different proportions of driving duties.

    From my own experience, the weakest link in a Xantia chassis is the "P" bushes. When I posted about the cracking on French Car Forum, at least two other members had experienced the same - one on a factory-original arm that wasn't abused.
    I'm feeling a bit slow this morning. What exactly do you mean by "P" bushes?
    JohnW

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    Quote Originally Posted by CUB_075 View Post
    Hi everyone,

    Changed the strut tops today and have to say a good thing I did! The left side looked ok but the drivers side rubber had small crack marks and started coming away from the side, they were also raised up so would have failed in a matter of time.
    They are the original one's and had done 180,000km's which is a good effort. They are the later type as well.
    If they are the later type, even if the rubber fails, the strut shouldn't break free and come up through the bonnet, or so we believe. Out of interest, how far "raised up" were they?

    Good timing!!
    JohnW

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    "P" bushes are the trailing bush to your Xantia's front lower suspension arm or "wishbone".

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    Quote Originally Posted by addo View Post
    "P" bushes are the trailing bush to your Xantia's front lower suspension arm or "wishbone".
    I see, what I'd call the rear pivot bush on the lower suspension arm.

    What exactly cracks? The arm itself is a fairly hefty casting.
    JohnW

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    The pressed metal loop which encapsulates the arm at this bushing point, cracks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by addo View Post
    The pressed metal loop which encapsulates the arm at this bushing point, cracks.
    I see. Definitely the weakest link, inspecting it further.

    Thanks for that.

    End of hijack!
    JohnW

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  18. #18
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    Default Pics

    Hey John, will take a couple of pics this week and post em to give everyone an idea.
    I am not sure about the difference between series one and two tops, the one's that came off my car looked ok and might have done another 50,000 or so but lookingt at the carnage pics of what happens I wasn't going to take the risk.

    Our roads out here are the worst in Australia so the suspension works harder than normal.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by CUB_075 View Post
    Hey John, will take a couple of pics this week and post em to give everyone an idea.
    I am not sure about the difference between series one and two tops, the one's that came off my car looked ok and might have done another 50,000 or so but lookingt at the carnage pics of what happens I wasn't going to take the risk.

    Our roads out here are the worst in Australia so the suspension works harder than normal.
    Thanks for that.

    I reckon keeping the front spheres properly charged is a fair bit of the issue. I first noticed this issue with posts from Malaysia. People were talking about temperature and humidity, neither of which has the slightest logic for me. France is hotter and steamier than people realise but has good sphere facilities, whereas in Malaysia these are real exotics with limited local knowledge.

    I also reckon, after seeing them off the car, that our strut mounts would have gone for years too. I couldn't easily see the difference either, but the part number was different!

    Like you, I wasn't about to take the risk. We know why Series 1 bonnets are rare...
    JohnW

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  20. #20
    Tadpole
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    hi guys i have a real on going problem in the front end of my 2005 c5 have changed spheres but i still have the hardest ride ive ever experienced on any car or truck ive ever driven.I had the suspension checked by agents they say nothing is wrong.Im no idiot but after having the spheres changed i was expecting results.I have to run real low tyre pressure to get even a little softness in the front end. The ride is liken to solid wheels.Could it be bushes or fluid valves.I would like to hear from any one who may help thanks

  21. #21
    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    Is ride height correct, and are the hydractive spheres working?

  22. #22
    Tadpole
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    hi addo yes i believe them to be working ok as they are both brand new last month the height is ok too fluid level ok

  23. #23
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    Pressure testing is the best way to know if a sphere is all it's cracked up to be.

    With the suspension, you could see on Lexia if there are faults that are sending it into hard mode. Occasionally on C5s I have seen a steering angle sensor fault; I don't know what specifically causes it but sometimes it is all but impossible to banish. I suspect poor crimping in the connectors. Lack of a coherent signal from height sensors, steering angle, pedal position or drivetrain data will cause it to play safe and switch the centre spheres out of the loop.

  24. #24
    Tadpole
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    Default c5 hardride suspension

    Thanks addo so it sounds like another citreon mistery im starting to realise that things with these cars are not straight forward.I have to say ive never had the great citreon experience.Can i say then that its possible the electronic control valve is faulting putting it into hard ride. The ride ive explained of solid wheels on the front if not the sphere could it be bushes .The threads ive read also comment on front end bushes ie. p bracket or suspension leg tops is that a possilbility As pushing on every corner of the car seems ok with enging running and switched off.Took the car to a suspension place they did a shocky test used on normal suspensions which showed the bunce to be good on all 4 wheels. Another thing ive noticed when i switch the car to sport mode there is no difference in ride at all. The car levels ok when i break hard there isnt any front end dive just seems like a solid mass up front .

  25. #25
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    OK, if there is no noticeable change when selecting "Sport" it does sound like the centre spheres are permanently out of the loop.

    I suggest you find someone local who can help with a Lexia session and actually show you what's on the screen.

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