BX clutch problems
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  1. #1
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    Default BX clutch problems

    Surely some BX owners may have had something similar. Clutch started to need adjustment, that is would not release fully. After adjusting, the problem reappeared rather suddenly in a matter of days. Now - is it the cable or the clutch?? I would think the clutch would slip before it failed, the cable fraying and elongating would also fit the bill. The pedal bracket is a bastard to work on - many skinned knuckles.
    Any tales of similar experiences would be gladly appreciated. (or even words of encouragement!!)
    rimzit

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  2. #2
    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
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    Rimzit,

    It sounds like you are suffering from metal fatigue in the cable mount or linkage system.

    Have a look under the intake air ducting between the air filter and the throttle body. There is a right angle lever that mounts on the gearbox with a cable connected to one end and the other transferring the force through a pin onto the throwout bearing release fork. These levers often fail near the pivot point and deform to become less of a right angle. Most replacement forks have been strengthened.

    If that looks OK, then it is time to look at the cable outer restraint on the pedal bracket on the firewall near where the heater hoses go through. This fails by letting the cable outer move up towards the pedal end. If this has failed you will have to take the whole pedal box out from inside the car and get it welded up and strengthened.

    Most BXs had these problems during the first 10 years of their life and you don't see it too often now.

    Cheers,

    Ken W

  3. #3
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rimzit View Post
    Surely some BX owners may have had something similar. Clutch started to need adjustment, that is would not release fully. After adjusting, the problem reappeared rather suddenly in a matter of days. Now - is it the cable or the clutch?? I would think the clutch would slip before it failed, the cable fraying and elongating would also fit the bill. The pedal bracket is a bastard to work on - many skinned knuckles.
    Any tales of similar experiences would be gladly appreciated. (or even words of encouragement!!)
    rimzit
    We had similar symptoms at about 200K km when the driven plate spring housing started to disintegrate and the springs came out. Extraordinary.
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
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    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  4. #4
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    Default

    Thanks for the help so far,
    both the right angle crank at the gearbox and the bracket at the pedal end are OK. Now - -
    do the cables fail often ?? It's a cow to get the rubber apron at the pedal end unscrewed. Do clutches fail gradually WITHOUT SLIPPING ?? Anyone experienced similar problems.
    Rimzit

  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger! racing405's Avatar
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    Default

    I have no idea what clutch and gearbox is in your BX, but I have recently had a similar set of symptoms in my 405 track car. In my case, it turned out to be the clutch fork had flicked off the back of the thrust bearing and when it contacted again, it wasn't engaged correctly. it quickly broke a bit out of the side of the thrust bearing and wound up destroying both the gearing and the front bearing retaining place and sleeve. The parts only cost $80, but it requires the gearbox out to correct. Doh!
    racing 405
    1:59:09 last time at Phillip Island - less than standard Mi16.

  6. #6
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    Icon9

    Thank you 405 for the information. I guess I have to put the lead projectile between the molars and remove the gearbox. Just cannot take out the cable - too hard to remove the rubber boot at the pedal end. Will keep you all posted with the results.
    rimzee

  7. #7
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    Default

    Been a while since I changed the clutch cable in my BX, but I can not remember the rubber boot being that hard to get off. I think I just followed the Haynes book of Fairy Tales.
    Sounds like a cable problem to me. Gearbox removal would be a last resort.

    Cheers
    Michael

    C5
    BX Estate
    BX16v

  8. #8
    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
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    I would keep adjusting it up until something becomes obviously wrong. that way you will know if you just have to replace the cable or if you need to take the gearbox out. Sometimes the bearing fork can fatigue as well. If it has an old style throw out bearing, these are very sharp and can wear a groove in the fingers of the diaphragm spring until the inner bits break off and the bearing works its way into the spring, but the clutch usually gets pretty heavy before this happens.

    Cheers,

    Ken W

  9. #9
    Tadpole
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    Icon4 BX clutch

    i had the same problem turned out to be thrust bearing and pressure plate hope this is of help

  10. #10
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnW View Post
    We had similar symptoms at about 200K km when the driven plate spring housing started to disintegrate and the springs came out. Extraordinary.
    Sounds familiar - I had one destroy 2 clutches by popping the damping springs out of the clutch plate, thrust bearing was not straight and ground away the fingers on an angle. Couldn't change gear as obviously it wouldn't disengage.
    Turns out (a couple years later having re-used the engine in another 16v) that some turkey previously hadn't done up the top mounting bolt properly, which then enlarged the bolthole in the block and allowed the 'box to sit at a slight angle.

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