CX drive shafts
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Thread: CX drive shafts

  1. #1
    Tadpole
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    Default CX drive shafts

    Hi everyone, this one is directed at those CX fans. I have a 1980 CX c-matic pallas, love the car, I need to replace one shaft (outer boot perished cvj buggered) and the outer boot on the other shaft or replace both(which I have on a wreck) but I can't get the nut off the end, can someone help with a sane suggestion, apart from the obvious, I would love to have her back on the road for the chrissie hols, Haynes manual says the touque is 200 pounds. As far as I know both shafts have never been off the car.

    Cheers Pierre.

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  2. #2
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    They will be tight ....... very, very tight. It'll likely be 35mm which is hard to find. 1" 3/8th will be much easier to find ( 34.925mm ).

    If it's the right hand side, you need jackstands... you need to jump underneath and loosen the carrier bearing retainer bolts and rotate there heads out of the way. You will also need to crack the rollbar droplinks to get the driveshaft joints past it (a forked joint splitter and lump hammer will likely be your only option ... risking damaging the boots).

    The left hand side however can be difficult. If it's stuck in the diff *** DON'T PRY AT IT *** untie the inner joints boot and leave the out part behind in the diff. It's a [email protected] of a job to re-tie in place You need to get a slide hammer on the inner joint to "pop" it out of the diff. I don't know anyone who has the attachment for there hammer though. Possibly these may work (I have never tried)

    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CV-Joint-...ht_1052wt_1041

    You of course need a small slide hammer to use it on.

    Once the shafts our out, in theory if you clamp them in a vice, you can knock the outer joint off with a heavy hammer (as this will contract the snap ring). If that fails, you need to press the star off the inner joint and do the boots from that side.

    I haven't had to do this job for about 6months It's always fun.... While your there check the carrier bearing. The last car I did boots on was 'cos the carrier bearing had broken up and was thrashing around in the housing

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/citro%EBn-forum/90325-best-project-car-you-have-ever-seen.html
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger! andrewj's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    They will be tight ....... very, very tight. It'll likely be 35mm which is hard to find. 1" 3/8th will be much easier to find ( 34.925mm )..
    A 1.5M length of pipe slipped over the handle of the driver will give good control. Be sure to chock the wheels, as the handbrake will often slip before nut cracks. Perhaps make sure the C-matic is not in park, as it would be embarrassing to shear the parking pawl.

    [QUOTE= If that fails, you need to press the star off the inner joint and do the boots from that side./QUOTE]

    Alternative work the boot over the star using grease and a couple of big screw drivers (make sure they have no sharp edges)

    Enjoy!

    Andrew

    Driving - '90 XM, '85 CX IE Auto, 406 Coupe, 405 srdt wagon, '78 dyane, Resting (or Rusting): '73 Birotor '82 CX Presitige, '81 CX Break IE, GS X2, GS1015 Wagon, GS 1300 5sp Wagon, '76 GS 1220 Wagon, '75 GS Wagon, '58 2CV, '58 Vauxhall Velox

  4. #4
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    Default Nuts to you two !!

    Hi,
    I have not done a CX shaft but have done a few other cars.

    The answer is to attack it with some real tools. 3/4" drive sockets is a good idea. Then you can put as big a pipe on the handle as it needs. Others have given some good suggestions how to hold the car etc.
    My experience is to get the car ready with handbrake on and chocks on the wheel. Then put your socket on with a long strong pipe, a meter or so, so that it is horizontal and going down to undo. Then apply a shock load by jumping on it. That will shift any nut that is going to come off.
    If you cannot do this for some reason, and need to undo a nut anyway there is another way. Get a sharp cold chisel and a club hammer. Put a cut into two opposing flats at right angles to the axle. A couple of good blows each side will spread the nut enough to let it come off more easily. Do not try to cut the nut open or you will damage the thread. New nut of course required.

    Jaahn

  5. #5
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Don't forget you need to tighten them just as tight when you refit. They pre-load/hold the wheel bearing together.

    If you can't lock the wheel. THe easiest way is to stick a big screwdriver into the brake disc vent holes locking the disc against the caliper. Remember to ensure the wheel bolts are in if you do this or you'll just sheer the disc retaining studs off.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  6. #6
    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
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    I used a very long piece of tube on a breaker bar with a 36 mm 3/4 drive socket. Easier to find that 35mm and fits well enough to do the job!
    I remove the wheels and put the car on stands. The wheel bolts are then replaced and one is left unscrewed with about an inch protruding. On an adjacent wheel bolt I mount a 4 foot length of 1 1/2 square steel tube drilled so that the wheel bolt passes through the end of the square tube. The square tube then rests against the unscrewed adjacent wheel bolt so that it can lock up and prevent the hub rotating. The other end of the square tube contacts the concrete floor of the garage. All of this must be placed so that the direction of loosening is opposed. Then it is possible to undo the stub axle nut.
    The drop link for the anti roll bar must be disconnected from the upper link arm ( on both sides of the car) and swung back out of the way. A special tool is required but one can make this from a bolt and nut and a steel plate. The nut is welded to the steel plate and the bolt must be long enough to contact the drop link pin. The steel plate presses against the frame of the front suspension and engine cradle. Refer to the manual to get an idea of how to make this fixture.
    On the RHS the L shaped bolts holding the pilot bearing of the long drive shaft need to be undone and removed. The left hand inner Triaxe joint locates in the out put of the diff with a cir-clip. To remove this joint place a cold chisel between the head of a bolt of the out put bearing retaining plate and the back of the triaxe joint. The taper of the cold chisel provides a wedge to force between the bolt head and the back of the triaxe. A sharp crack with an engineering hammer is usually all that is needed to disengage the internal cir-clip and allow the triaxe shaft to slide out of the diff output bore.
    Now undo the tie rod ends to allow the hub to rotate enough to remove the stub axle from the bearing. Take care not to damage the bearing seal. Some times it is also necessary to undo the bottom ball joint assembly from the swivel to allow enough room to release the stub axle.
    The inner triaxe joint will then pass through the frame for removal.
    Cheers Gerry
    Last edited by gerrypro; 21st June 2012 at 04:52 PM.

  7. #7
    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
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    So Pierre, how is the driveshaft job going?

    I can remember almost tearing my hair out trying to get the inner joint out of the gearbox on a passenger side driveshaft about 10 years ago. I used to hammer a big cold chisel up between the triaxial cup and one of the diff bolts on the gearbox to wedge out the driveshaft. I had been banging away for hours on different parts of the back of the triaxial joint to no avail. So when I had it pretty well wedged, I rolled out from underneath, crawled over to the edge of the slab and sat with my head in my hands wondering how I was going to ever get it out.

    Then the was a sharp clack sound, followed the ringing clang of the cold chisel hitting the concrete and I could pull the inner joint out. I must have been asking for divine intervention I think. So the moral of that story is to get some good force onto it and give it some time to have an effect.

    I hope yours is easier to take apart than this one was. At least you hardly have to touch later BX and Xantia driveshafts. I was always having to do boots on GSs and CXs - Brings back bad memories of black greasy work with lots of hammering involved.

    Cheers,

    Ken W

  8. #8
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ken W View Post
    So Pierre, how is the driveshaft job going?

    I can remember almost tearing my hair out trying to get the inner joint out of the gearbox on a passenger side driveshaft about 10 years ago. I used to hammer a big cold chisel up between the triaxial cup and one of the diff bolts on the gearbox to wedge out the driveshaft. I had been banging away for hours on different parts of the back of the triaxial joint to no avail. So when I had it pretty well wedged, I rolled out from underneath, crawled over to the edge of the slab and sat with my head in my hands wondering how I was going to ever get it out.

    Then the was a sharp clack sound, followed the ringing clang of the cold chisel hitting the concrete and I could pull the inner joint out. I must have been asking for divine intervention I think. So the moral of that story is to get some good force onto it and give it some time to have an effect.

    I hope yours is easier to take apart than this one was. At least you hardly have to touch later BX and Xantia driveshafts. I was always having to do boots on GSs and CXs - Brings back bad memories of black greasy work with lots of hammering involved.

    Cheers,

    Ken W
    That's easy .... by the time the rubber in BX and Xantia driveshaft is old enough to split ....... the driveshaft is worn out and dead. CX driveshaft are near bloody indesctructable, so last the life of the car. The problem is the rubber boots perish with time..... They still seem to last forever even if driven with no boots and full of mud for months at a time

    You don't "pry" at that lhs driveshaft. I've heard of poeple breaking the snap ring by prying and having to pull the diff apart to extract the pieces. You need to use a slide hammer that'll compress the snap ring with a "shock". If they don't easily pop out for me, I've usually left the inner joint behind. If the engine/box is coming out, a bit of redgum against the inner joint and a good heavy whack with a big hammer has the "stuck" joint shoot out at about 1/2 speed of light and fly across the shed breaking anything in it's path

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  9. #9
    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    You don't "pry" at that lhs driveshaft. I've heard of poeple breaking the snap ring by prying and having to pull the diff apart to extract the pieces. You need to use a slide hammer that'll compress the snap ring with a "shock".

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Try the cold chisel approach. It loads the cir-clip against its groove and the hammer impact provides the shock to evenly compress the ring and clear the groove. I have never had to dismantle the triaxe to remove one of these joints. It is much cleaner to service these joints once they are out on the bench.
    Have you ever dismantled the CV joint completely removing the shaft, inner spider and balls?
    They are not as wear proof as you think! They can exhibit quite marked wear patterns in nthe grooves that the balls run in.
    Cheers Gerry

  10. #10
    Fellow Frogger! John P's Avatar
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    Hi, Pierre-Anthony. I have a 35mm socket, a 3/4 inch drive bar and a long piece of pipe here. You're welcome to borrow them. PM me if you're interested. I can talk you through the issues Gerry & Ken raised. (Ken, I remember the anguish well!). For a good cup of coffee I'll even drive the 15 minutes to Cranbourne and help.
    2006 C5 2.0 HDI estate - daily driver
    1981 2CV - The Amelie project is complete.
    1930 C6F torpedo - My Great Folly! Project under way.

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