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Thread: DS Windows

  1. #1
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    Default DS Windows

    Hello all,

    I am at the stage of installing the windows of my DS 21 restoration project and I have a query regarding lubrication of the window winding mechanism. In particular, what lubricant if any is used on the window guide channels, on the clamp pads at the bottom of the window and on the winding mechanism and gear teeth.

    It seems to me that the windows on D's, especially on the earlier ones with the push button handles are prone to rattling when the door is closed. Later D's with the flush lift handles seem to have a more solid sound to them when closing. Has anyone discovered why this is so, and is there any cure? I should add that my 21 has the push button handles.

    Cheers
    Richard

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    Last edited by R Procter; 14th May 2012 at 06:12 PM. Reason: additional information

  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger! Bruce Llewellyn's Avatar
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    Default window winders

    Hi,

    The window winders, from memory, simply use a basic clear grease. Since grease is soap dissolved in oil, it goes hard after twenty years. It is possible to also use vaseline on them. It is worth pulling them out and washing them properly, then re lubricating.

    The guide channels are supposed to by dry, the plastic shoe is self lubricating. If you give it a wash with soapy water, spray a bit of lanolin on it and leave it for a day or so, then wipe off the excess lanolin it might work OK.

    The rattles seem to be a result of metal to glass contact. The Special (lift up model) doesn't rattle, the safari was bad for it, but it hasn't run for years.

    There is service information (see stickies?) on rigging dorrs, windows etc. which might help.

    Bruce.

  3. #3
    skp
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    Spray silicon is great for the side runners. As mentioned, grease dries out and becomes a drag more than a lubricant.
    The lower clamp needs no lub,
    The winding mechanism is Ok with silicone as well.

    Rattles are the result of 'worn' / flattened inner fuzzys and hardened outer rubber weather seals. Worn side runners also contribute... and are easy and cheap to replace.

    Make sure that the side runners have the original spacers back in so that the glass doesn't move back and forth in the door..

    Skp

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    Default

    Thanks for the advice Bruce and SKP. I have a selection of inner fuzzys to use so will ensure that the best of them is used. The outer weather seals are mostly hard, so will eventually have to be replaced, I have seen them advertised OS. I had thought to use striker plate lubricant on the side runners, but maybe I will leave them as is.

    I have been fixing sound deadener to the inside of the outer skins to reduce the tinny noise of the doors. Using heavy black tarry sheets 1/4 thick, applied with a heat gun. Inside door bottoms wire brushed and sprayed with lanolin while the access was available. Will perhaps try silicone spray on the runners if there is any drag apparent on the window slides.

    Cheers
    Richard

  5. #5
    VIP Sponsor richo's Avatar
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    Using new fuzzies and outer window weather seals will make a heck of a difference. Even better if you have the outers flocked on the rubbing side, as were the originals.

    When you do order the new outer seals and inner fuzzies, be sure to order new fixing clips, it's worth the effort for the few dollars spent. The result will please you.

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger! wiley_coyote's Avatar
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    You're probably installing new vapor barriers, they're never any good after about 15 years or so. Tuck the bottom of the new barrier into the bottom opening so it drains into the bottom of the door rather than the car interior as the factory installed them. Of course, clean out the interior of the door bottom and make sure the drains and weepways are completely clear.

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