BX 16V CV outer boot replacement
  • Register
  • Help
Results 1 to 11 of 11
  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! b707's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    ACT Canberra
    Posts
    181

    Default BX 16V CV outer boot replacement

    I need to replace the RHD outer CV boot, its got a small crack but no grease has spilled out yet. I've been told that this can be done without removing the entire shaft fron the transaxle. I'm used to having to do this on my other cars. Apparently the outer joint can be separated fron the shaft to facilitate the replacement of the boot.

    Advertisement


    The Haynes manual seems to confirm this. I have nightmares of CV joint balls going all over the place. Anyone done this without any dramas?

  2. #2
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    Perth, WA, Australia
    Posts
    10,705

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by b707 View Post
    I need to replace the RHD outer CV boot, its got a small crack but no grease has spilled out yet. I've been told that this can be done without removing the entire shaft fron the transaxle. I'm used to having to do this on my other cars. Apparently the outer joint can be separated fron the shaft to facilitate the replacement of the boot.

    The Haynes manual seems to confirm this. I have nightmares of CV joint balls going all over the place. Anyone done this without any dramas?
    Nightmares of CV joint needle rollers going everywhere actually. There are approximately 5,000,003 of them from experience getting an engine out a week or so ago.

    The RHS shaft is fitted onto the layshaft (or whatever it is called) that comes from the diff and is supported by a bearing, so that the RHS driveshaft is the same length as the LHS one. If you can get the hub nut undone, and release the front suspension, the outer end of the shaft can swing free. No doubt someone will contribute more detail that I can.

    So, don't know the full answer, but best of luck.
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
    Renault R8 1965
    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Renault Scenic 2006 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger! XM Mechanic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    306

    Default

    You need some stretch boots and this tool.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oEKY0uFlBpc

    I have done it a few times myself and it seems to work well. The only thing not shown in this video is the horrendous mess with the grease coming off and going on.
    Regards,

    Garth.


    Fixin' Cit's and got the shits.


    '15 DS 5
    '74 GS Convertisseur

    In the family
    '51 Traction
    '08 C5 X7 V6

    Previous ownership
    '95 XM V6 Series 2
    '96 306 XTDT

  4. #4
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aust.
    Posts
    16,333

    Default

    The outer joint is likely held on by a snap ring. In theory if you can get access enough to give the back of the joint a good heavy thump, the snap ring will compress and the joint will pop off. I can't say I've ever succeeded in doing that though

    It's easier to whip the shaft out to clean the joint and grease/fit the boots.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/citro%EBn-forum/90325-best-project-car-you-have-ever-seen.html
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  5. #5
    1000+ Posts PeterT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Location
    Castle Hill, Sydney
    Posts
    7,433

    Default

    Easy job, once the shaft is out of the car. Hold the outer shaft midway in a bench vice. Support inner section so it doesn't flop about and stress the inner boot. Cut away damaged boot with stanley knife etc. Using a large hammer and a suitable soft drift (Cu, Al etc) , hit the inner section of the joint hard. The complete joint will ride over the snap ring and splines. Catch it before it hits the floor.

    Strip, clean, regrease etc., noting direction of cage when you pull it apart. Inspect 8 balls and inside CV for wear.

    Slip new boot over splines. Hit reco'd joint back over snap ring/splines with soft drift/hammer.

    At the same time, inspect the engine mount support bearing and replace if necessary. It costs $6 from a bearing place.

    Stay away from the inner CV unless absolutely necessary. There are 99 needle rollers in there.

    '92 205 Mi16
    '90 Mi16x4

  6. #6
    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    North Brisbane
    Posts
    1,893

    Default

    Hey Froggers,

    I faintly remember the needle rollers on the inner joints from my GS days but I have not seen them on CX or BX cars. They seem to have a brass bush instead on the inside of the roller ball. Havn't had to look in a Xantia or C5 CV joint yet (fingers crossed). Did see some needle rollers on a Peugeot 306 more recently tho.

    Cheers,

    Ken W

  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Wollongong, NSW
    Posts
    495

    Default

    If it is teh same as a 16 valve 405 Pug, then giving it a sharp tap with a hammer, while holding the shaft in a vice, should free it from teh snap ring. There are not thousands of needle rollers in this one, but how you do this with it still in the car is beyond me, unless you get one of those expander tools.

    If you try, it is more likely that you will pull the shaft a little way out of the gearbox and suddenly have a flood of gearbox oil on the floor. Much easier to drain the gearbox first, then remove the whole shaft and then do the vice thing.

    Regards, Erik

  8. #8
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    444

    Default

    b707,

    As per PeterT, but when dissembling the outer CV joint for cleaning mark the relationship of the inner section, cage and outer section to ensure reassembly in the correct order.

    I use a 1mm thick cutting disc to just mark the exposed surface of the parts before stripping.

    I do not think the balls need to be sorted - - -

    And have I left myself open on this post!

    Regards,

    fento

  9. #9
    Fellow Frogger! b707's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    ACT Canberra
    Posts
    181

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by fento View Post
    b707,

    As per PeterT, but when dissembling the outer CV joint for cleaning mark the relationship of the inner section, cage and outer section to ensure reassembly in the correct order.

    I use a 1mm thick cutting disc to just mark the exposed surface of the parts before stripping.

    I do not think the balls need to be sorted - - -

    And have I left myself open on this post!

    Regards,

    fento
    I didn't go as far as dissembling the outer joint. I just seperated it from the shaft, gave it a whipe over, fitted new boot and reassembled. As recommended by people on this forum. Why bother taking apart the outer joint to inspect if its all working fine before?

    As you can see from another post the boot has been fitted and the car is on the road

    BX 16V registered

  10. #10
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    444

    Default

    b707,

    If the boot is split the only way you can be certain that the joint is clean is to strip, clean and apply fresh lubricant - - -

    Regards,

    fento

  11. #11
    Fellow Frogger! b707's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    ACT Canberra
    Posts
    181

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by fento View Post
    b707,

    If the boot is split the only way you can be certain that the joint is clean is to strip, clean and apply fresh lubricant - - -

    Regards,

    fento
    Point taken Fento. The boot had a small half inch crack that developed between me last looking and the trip to the inspection garage. No time or Kms for crap to contaminate the joint. No evidence of grease thrown out of the joint either.

    So removed the old boot, gave the joint a wipe and refilled with new grease.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •