Polishing stainless and alloy
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  1. #1
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Default Polishing stainless and alloy

    Hi Guys,

    your CX's and D's have stainless bumpers and trims right ... check this article out:

    http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Polishing_Stainless.pdf

    It's a bloody ripper!

    seeya,
    Shane L.

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    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
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    Have just been doing the aluminium trim on the 11BL. Similar techniques and a Josco buff on the bench grinder to finish off. Tapered spindles are available for left and right rotation. Works a treat but hand polishing is necessary for the thin beads that go around the grille.
    I start with coarse grade wet and dry to remove oxidation and then progressively use finer grades till I end at 2000. Then either the buff or the Brasso to finish. POR also make a lacquer that is intended to protect metal that is natural in finish. I will investigate this later to avoid constant repolishing.
    Cheers Gerry

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    Default Incredible

    That is a sensational article, I would never have believed you could get this kind of result with such simple techniques and tools.

    Will be trying this on my ID21 Safari, thanks for sharing.

  4. #4
    Administrator GreenBlood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    Hi Guys,

    your CX's and D's have stainless bumpers and trims right ... check this article out:

    http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Polishing_Stainless.pdf

    It's a bloody ripper!

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    That is pretty much the tack I have taken, with the exception of using the green compound rather than the red.

    Quote Originally Posted by gerrypro View Post
    Have just been doing the aluminium trim on the 11BL. Similar techniques and a Josco buff on the bench grinder to finish off. Tapered spindles are available for left and right rotation. Works a treat but hand polishing is necessary for the thin beads that go around the grille.
    I start with coarse grade wet and dry to remove oxidation and then progressively use finer grades till I end at 2000. Then either the buff or the Brasso to finish. POR also make a lacquer that is intended to protect metal that is natural in finish. I will investigate this later to avoid constant repolishing.
    Cheers Gerry
    Look into the POR lacquer carefully, I've seen it yellow badly over time (I'm speaking of POR Clear) gibgib used it on brake lines etc. on his 2CV restoration, perhaps they have an updated product now??

    Cheers
    Chris
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  5. #5
    JBN
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    A terrific article backed up by before, during and after pictures. Looking at the gloves, the guy is definately not a wranker (with a silent "r"). Pity after all that work, he still ended up with a Convair.

    I bent and kinked the stainless strips down the rear windscreen of a CX and panel beated, filed and sanded it in a not dissimilar manner to that shown.

    John

  6. #6
    Member XantiaHead's Avatar
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    Icon14 Great article - brilliant results...

    Thanks for this link Shane.

    The stainless steel trim on my 1971 Alfa Spider will thank you too, in due course!

    Cheers,

    Andrew Matusiewicz
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  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger! CorneSoutAfrica's Avatar
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    He make it sound so easy but if you have time and patience the results will speak for themselves, it's just beautiful work this man did!
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    Basically the process I went through (along with the panelbeater). (but he hammered onto a smooth brass block. I suspect a shaped piece of wood onto leather allows the 'memory' of the metal to help find the correct shape = better)

    I found going through the grits of sandpaper before polishing very important.

    I quickly got 85% of this result. For a similar result I suspect you'd have to take twice (or more) the time.

    Some of mine had already been professionally done, so doing a better job than I did would have out shone the professionals efforts!

    PS. If using a small bench grinder allow it to cool occasionally or you might blow it up (oops). Not using gloves allowed me to gauge the metal was not getting too hot. Polish away from edges - never catch an edge!!
    Last edited by DSuper; 25th February 2012 at 09:35 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DSuper View Post
    Not using gloves allowed me to gauge the metal was not getting too hot. Polish away from edges - never catch an edge!!

    These two points are most important, especially for anyone unfamiliar with polishing.

  10. #10
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Wow! Great work. Thanks Shane.
    JohnW

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  11. #11
    mnm
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    I have a second set of front bumper bars for the DSpecial I was going to get polished up and replace the current slightly crumpled ones with... I notice someone has had the little metal nose piece for the front middle rubber, welded to the bumper!

    My question is, can this be removed without damaging the bumper and polished out.. ?

    Cheers

    Matthew

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by mnm View Post
    I have a second set of front bumper bars for the DSpecial I was going to get polished up and replace the current slightly crumpled ones with... I notice someone has had the little metal nose piece for the front middle rubber, welded to the bumper!

    My question is, can this be removed without damaging the bumper and polished out.. ?

    Cheers

    Matthew

    Pics please, to see the condition. Then report.

  13. #13
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    Default polishing alu

    Once you've done all the hard work like that chap in Bolivia (Shane's link), I've found that a small tube of Autosol works great to keep that shine. In particular older Safari models have a fair bit of alu decorating, which tends to tarnish/oxidise. I have tried clear coating, varnishing etc, but it tends to yellow over time. The creme is widely available and also works great on stainless. To get those rear lights looking as new, I removed the light units and carefully masked off the sides and placed both units in a blasting cabinet, using fine alu beads. This will give that mat alu finish around the lamps. The sides can be polished to a shine...

    Cheers,

    Bernard

  14. #14
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    Default aluminium trim

    Thanks Shane. Now I have some confidence in repairing the Safari roof aluminium trim. Why didn't I join Aussie Frogs years ago? It's brilliant what you "fellow froggers" come up with! Michael

  15. #15
    Administrator GreenBlood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bernardrubingh View Post
    Once you've done all the hard work like that chap in Bolivia (Shane's link), I've found that a small tube of Autosol works great to keep that shine. In particular older Safari models have a fair bit of alu decorating, which tends to tarnish/oxidise. I have tried clear coating, varnishing etc, but it tends to yellow over time. The creme is widely available and also works great on stainless. To get those rear lights looking as new, I removed the light units and carefully masked off the sides and placed both units in a blasting cabinet, using fine alu beads. This will give that mat alu finish around the lamps. The sides can be polished to a shine...

    Cheers,

    Bernard
    ...agree, I really don't like the idea of clear coats, Autosol is quick and easy to use and leaves a protective film which slows the oxidisation process down. There is actually something quite nice about going around the car and keeping the alluminium and stainless looking good.

    Not a lot of alluminium to do on a D Special, boot lid lock handle and the hinges.



    Cheers
    Chris
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Polishing stainless and alloy-boot-lock.jpg  
    74 D(very Special) >>Rejuvenation Thread<<
    08 C5 X7 HDi very Noir



    "Déesse" Roland Barthes, 'Mythologies', 1957

    The Déesse has all the characteristics of one of those objects fallen from another universe that fed the mania for novelty in the eighteenth century and a similar mania expressed by modern science fiction: the Déesse is first and foremost the new Nautilus.

    (Umberto Eco [Ed], The History of Beauty, Rizzoli, NY, 2004)

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