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Thread: CX Rubber

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! laurie_lewis's Avatar
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    Default CX Rubber

    Hi all,

    Could anyone tell me if they have found suitable bailey channel and door rubber seal replacements around anywhere?

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    Thanks

    Laurie

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    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by laurie_lewis View Post
    Hi all,

    Could anyone tell me if they have found suitable bailey channel and door rubber seal replacements around anywhere?

    Thanks

    Laurie
    Laurie ----have a look at Scott's Old Auto Rubber

    http://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/

    They may have suitable replacement sections. I doubt whether you will be able to get pinch weld for the door seals that is properly shaped for the corners of the door frames unless you try 'CX Basics'. A section will be available from Scott's but you will have to trim and bond the ends to fit the corners.
    Bailey channel should be no problem.
    Cheers Gerry

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    Fellow Frogger! laurie_lewis's Avatar
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    Hi Gerry,

    I am coming to grips with all these terms. So the pinchweld has to be cut at 45 deg angle and glued together, for the top corners. What kind of glue do you use?

    The rubber is all there but I was thinking that at almost 30 years of age new rubber and bailey channel would make the car quieter. Is this a correct assumption or not?

    I have contacted Scotts for a quote.

    Did you use any particular rubber for you CX?

    Thanks

    Laurie

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger! ARCHRIVAL's Avatar
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    All your noise is coming from those silly rear vision mirrors hate to hear them at 200mph on the jaguarXK220
    BX 16v 89, I Renault Floride 62, Volvo P1800 68, Aston Martin DB6 68, Daimler 250V8 68, Jaguar XJC 76, Falcon Ute XL 62, Falcon Ute XY 4WD, Jeep Grand Larado 03, Mazda 6 Wagon 05, inter 483 tractor 86, makita cordless drill CX TURBO its dented D Special 1 62 ID192000 Xantia V6 2000 Cadillac STS stolen by the princess,KANGA 720DL LOADER

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    Fellow Frogger! Rob T's Avatar
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    Laurie,

    I used bailey channel that Clark rubber had in stock. They have a few sizes so you will need to take a sample in to match. The new rubber was not identical - but is a pretty close match. And it is certainley worth doing. I gave the offcut that I had left over to Kimmo. Maybe you could ask him if there is any identifying numbers on the rubber or maybe he might cut a sample off and post it too you.

    Clarks do have pinchweld (door seal rubber) and they will probably have a section that suits. The mitre in the top corner might be a bit tricky to cut and glue but it could be done. But I have never seen an after market section that is all that close to the Citroen original. I have used the Clark sections on the 306 and although it is far from identical it does do a good job of sealing. Note that Clarks retail prices aren't exactly cheap. When I was looking for a complete set of seal rubbers for the Fiat X 1/9 I searched the web and found a truck body builders supply company on the gold coast. They were half the price of Clarks and phone call with a credit card number soon had them on the way.

    I have also fitted new door seals on my CX. I got mine in a few transactions from eBay. Do check the price for seals from CX Basis. They won't be cheap but nor is buying small quanitities from Australian suppliers. And the original door seals will fit better.
    Robert Thorne
    Brisbane
    Citroenless - for now...

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger! laurie_lewis's Avatar
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    All my noise is coming from the wife asking me to get the car back together so she can have her carport back. I would be happy with wind noise at this time.

    Laurie

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    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    I don't think mine leaks at all around the doors. Insulating the firewall and floors will make an immensely greater difference. As will fixing the windows so they don't close at an angle leaving gaps (if you ever figure that one out .................... You'll let me know right ).

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/citro%EBn-forum/90325-best-project-car-you-have-ever-seen.html
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

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    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by laurie_lewis View Post
    Hi Gerry,

    I am coming to grips with all these terms. So the pinchweld has to be cut at 45 deg angle and glued together, for the top corners. What kind of glue do you use?

    The rubber is all there but I was thinking that at almost 30 years of age new rubber and bailey channel would make the car quieter. Is this a correct assumption or not?

    I have contacted Scotts for a quote.

    Did you use any particular rubber for you CX?

    Thanks

    Laurie
    I am still using original rubber strips and Bailey channel------It was all in good order. I have never tried to join the pinchweld sections by gluing. I think that Scott's would be able to recommend a glue!
    Pinchweld strip is just the mane given to the rubber cover that closes the weld seam around the doors. It is usually three metal flanges that are pinch together and spot welded in manufacture. Most modern cars have this type of join for the door frames.
    Cheers Gerry

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    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    I don't think mine leaks at all around the doors. Insulating the firewall and floors will make an immensely greater difference. As will fixing the windows so they don't close at an angle leaving gaps (if you ever figure that one out .................... You'll let me know right ).

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Shane wind the windows closed on a CX and then loosen and re tighten the window regulator nuts while keeping upward hand pressure on the regulator and glass. This ensures that the glass is up tight in the channel against the rubbers and aligns the regulator properly!
    Cheers Gerry

  10. #10
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gerrypro View Post
    Shane wind the windows closed on a CX and then loosen and re tighten the window regulator nuts while keeping upward hand pressure on the regulator and glass. This ensures that the glass is up tight in the channel against the rubbers and aligns the regulator properly!
    Cheers Gerry
    I'll try ... but I don't think it'll work. It's a series II only problem as far as I'm aware. I've never had or seen and early car that does it. They angle the last 5mm before closure and whistle like crazy

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  11. #11
    1000+ Posts Greg C's Avatar
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    The problem you will have is the rubber folding going around the corner at the bottom front of the door frame. All the sections I have tried from Clark Rubber do this and water leaks in. I don't know if the stuff available from CX Basis does but as it is only 11.31 Euro/m at the current exchange rates it is a bargain. You need 7m

    http://cx-basis.de/eshop/product_inf...oducts_id=4279
    Mine

    CX Prestige
    Toyota Prius

    In the family

    Xantia SX

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    Fellow Frogger! laurie_lewis's Avatar
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    Hi Greg,

    That rubber looks a lot different from what was on my Turbo around the door opening. Is that rubber used on the actual door? Sorry I am a bit lost after looking at the picture on cx-basis website.

    Laurie

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    I have been corresponding with a German CX owner and remembered that he ran an extra set of weather-stripping on his S1. I believe CX Basis provided him some of the parts. Here is part of our conversation on the subject:

    "Very important: the replacement of the old and hard window guides & rubber. Here Jochen Heusel can help you.

    Then: an additional and closed rubber-profile between door and body. I tested and now use the one I fixed to the body by using plastic clips from VW (holes been drilled in advance of the dipping); Jochen Heusel has a profile you can attach to the door.

    The effect: the feeling that the door and side-window had been moved out approx. 1 yd.

    Finally, especially for cruising at 80 and 90 mph (as we do here): the wind noise created by the cross-winds at the A-column.

    For testing I stuck in a piece of rubber and used sellotape of an appropriate width: incredible what difference that made! Like driving during the night without ANY crosswind at all. But the rain flowed over the side-windows so I copied what is done for modern cars: guiding the water up the windscreen."

    I am attaching pictures of the extra weather-stripping and other wind-noise mods.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails CX Rubber-p1010003.jpg   CX Rubber-p1010004.jpg   CX Rubber-p1010016.jpg   CX Rubber-p1010017.jpg  

  14. #14
    Fellow Frogger! Stuart Dammery's Avatar
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    I remember pulling off some of the door rubber of a wreck Lozza, but I havent noticed it in my last few trips into my storage area, otherwise known as underneath my house, I'll have a look this weekend...but don't get your hopes too high
    1980 CX2400
    2000 Xantia Wagon

  15. #15
    Fellow Frogger! laurie_lewis's Avatar
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    Default Pinchweld Sizes

    Hi Allen,

    Well I think you answered my question to Greg. It would appear that my car is fitted with enclosed pinchweld and that you can also get unenclosed pinchweld, which is what is on the CX Basis website.

    I have been looking at the link that Gerry provided and I have identified the size (or similar) that is fitted to my car. What is interesting is that there are larger enclosed seals as well as double seals so perhaps I need to look at it a bit more before deciding or getting some advice from the supplier. Larger seal might not necessarily mean better seal but it might, based on what I see in those photos there is a correlation between the amount of seal and noise.

    Shane & Archrival, when I was looking at the seals on CX-Basis I also saw the dust seals that go on the bottom of the doors for exported cars. I have them fitted to my C-Matic. They are not fitted to my turbo. Do either of you have them on your turbos and are they a worthwhile? Not really intending to take the turbo off the black stuff though once I get it back on the road (that will last 6 months).

    Laurie

  16. #16
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    No, don't fit them.... They rust the bottom off the door by retaining water against them indefinately. Though I must admit there is a friends '85 wagon here at the moment, and it has those rubber strips. They are not attached with self tappers straight into the door skin ( ) like the local cars. Do you want me to get a picture of the way they are attached It looks like plastic nuts on molded studs.

    My car is quieter than the C4 at speed since I've insulated it, exposed rain gutters and 40year old body design and all (the C4's tires can be really LOUD on some surfaces at speed). The door seals in your turbo shoudln't be to bad unless they were damaged when removed (it's younger than mine). The main noise comes from the front windows if they don't wind up right and the mirrors that whistle like crazy if you wind the front windows down.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  17. #17
    Fellow Frogger! laurie_lewis's Avatar
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    No I don't think I will fit them, but was just asking. I can see how they are fitted on the c-matic and I suppose I am fortunate they have not rusted out.

    Yes I know about the wind noise so that was why I am going to fit new bailey channel to see if I can get that new car fit for a while.

    I have put down two layers of insulation on the floor and one on the roof of the car. Also put some dynamat extreme under the back parcel shelf to give it some weight.

    I have to take the windows out again to do some glass cleaning (working from back of car to front and only 18 months behind schedule) so while they where out I am thinking about putting some dynamat on the outer door skin.

    I want to make the car as quiet as I can without putting two tonnes of sound deadening and insulation in it.

    The door seals might be younger but have obviously had a rougher life. Damaged in places before I took them off.

    Laurie

  18. #18
    CitroŽn, what else? smiffy1071's Avatar
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    Now the weather is starting to get a little warmer, I will be starting work on my car... at long last.
    Hurrah!!
    2005 C5 2.0 VTR Hdi 138, 1986 Kawasaki GPz 750G2

  19. #19
    Fellow Frogger! laurie_lewis's Avatar
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    That's funny because I have to finish mine as the thunder clouds are building. Sunny outside though.

  20. #20
    Fellow Frogger! laurie_lewis's Avatar
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    Gerry and other helpful souls,

    Since I am replacing my bailey channel and eventually the pinchweld ( love using those technical terms). I am looking at repairing/replacing the rubber strips that go along the top of the doors to prevent the water/dirt from falling down there.

    Don't know the technical term sorry, something else I have to learn.

    Now is there an easy way to update them or again is it Citroen specific rubber and not easy. I did damage one taking them off.


    Laurie

  21. #21
    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
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    Laurie do you mean the external or the internal Glass seals?
    The internals often warp and distort with heat through the glass. They can be re straightened with heat ------- boiling water poured over them whilst laying in the bath ( the strips ---not yourself) When soft and supple just pull them straight again and cool with the cold tap.
    The external strip should be a commercially available strip. Have you asked Scotts about it? They have many more strips than those listed, but would need to see a cross section diagram showing the dimensions.
    Cheers Gerry

  22. #22
    Fellow Frogger! laurie_lewis's Avatar
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    I was talking about the external ones. So if I can find the correct profile rubber they should slide into the metal holder?

    Great.

    I will send Scott's a sample.

    Laurie

  23. #23
    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
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    Those metal clips were also used on Ford Escorts. So therefore there should be a repro rubber section available. The car that I restored for my daughter ( Escort Mk 2 ) was fitted with new glass seals but these were pre-cut to length for an Escort. It has a metal strip moulded into it to brace the section and to assist it to hold firmly into the clips. The original rubber on CXs is of very good quality and lasts very well. I know of several D boys who have used CX rubber on their Ds in place of the original that perishes very quickly.
    How come yours needs replacing?
    Cheers Gerry

  24. #24
    Fellow Frogger! laurie_lewis's Avatar
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    Gerry,

    I damaged one in taking it out so was just thinking if I have to replace one why not 4 with new rubber. I may well be able to repair the one I damaged.

    My intention is to have this CX as my daily driver so I was going to try and make it as quiet as possible and that was in the back of my mind as well. Not that I think you will get a lot of wind noise from that area.

    Laurie

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