Xantia 16V valve knock
  • Register
  • Help
Results 1 to 6 of 6
  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Wagga Wagga
    Posts
    342

    Default Xantia 16V valve knock

    Our 1996 xantia wagon @ 280,000km ( manual 16V) has lost performance power and developed a knock in the engine (sounds like from the valve train). It starts and drives but idles rough. I am guessing it is something to do with the head, possibly hydraulic tappets or a burnt valve or something. The cam belt was replace about 40k km ago. It does not use any oil. Our daughter has been driving the car for the last 2 years and I suspect the power loss has been gradual.
    Any suggestions as to what the problem may be? It would be good to have some idea of possible problem before taking it to a mechanic. I gather if the head has to come off it will require total reconditioning which may cost more than the car is worth. We have had the car since new and it has been utterly reliable during that time.
    Any help is appreciated.

    Advertisement

  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    9,670

    Default

    Checked the plugs and compression yet? Bad compression could be due a burnt valve.

    Do you have a stethoscope to help pinpoint the noise before you pull it apart.

    It it used for short trips only? Maybe, it's a carbon buildup problem? If you think it's a lazy tappet, then you could try an oil/carbon cleaner and change to see if it helps. Is the problem worse when starting?

    These are fairly cheap options, but you may need to remove the valve covers to check for something broken, perhaps a valve spring?

  3. #3
    1000+ Posts gerrypro's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Camperdown 3260 Australia
    Posts
    3,021

    Default

    The old mechanics trick:- instead of using a stethoscope, use a large screwdrive with the blade touching the engine at the place of the suspected noise. With your hand gripping the handle dagger style, leave a small air gap between the first finger and thumb above the handle. Place your ear to your hand against the thumb and finger circle and listen. It is amazing how well the sound is transmitted when right on the source and saves having to buy an expensive instrument!
    Cheers Gerry

  4. #4
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Newcastle
    Posts
    2,572

    Default Noise.

    Hi,
    Its always a big call to know what to do about a motor with 280,000 ks that has developed a problem. However a compentent mechanic should be able to diagnose the problem and indicate the way to fix it even if he has no experience with Citroens.

    David has given some obvious and sensible things to check. Just do these external checks, then lift the tappet covers if necessary and add up the results and the estimated costs. Then you can decide what to do.

    However there is no reason to suggest that you have to do a full recondition just because you find some reason to lift the head. But you may find more wear than you know about. A mechanic will be reluctant to fully guarantee a job if it is only a patch up. But it is your car and you know its history so it may go plenty more years with just the immediate problem fixed if it has caused no other damage.
    Jaahn

  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Wagga Wagga
    Posts
    342

    Default

    Thank you for your advice and the screw driver hint. I have just replaced the plugs and being a country car with occasional long trips I am thinking the valve train is just worn out. It uses no oil and has a good maintenance history...and a wagon, so will probably set a $2k limit on reconditioning the head- depending on mechanic's assessment.
    You don't get much of a SH car for under $6K from what I can gather- there are exceptions of course as this forum can attest.
    I will keep you posted.

  6. #6
    1000+ Posts George 1/8th's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Melbourne, Victoria.
    Posts
    1,388

    Default

    It might even be something simpler like failing ignition leads. I'd start with the really simple and cheap tests first before looking for faulty valves or lifting the head. Have a look at the engine idling in the dark with the bonnet up first. You might be lucky, you might see sparks everywhere and hear cracking noises from shorting leads. I had that once.

    Good luck...cheers...George 1/8th

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •