Xantia Blower Motor
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  1. #1
    JBN
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    Default Xantia Blower Motor

    I know this subject has been done to death, but much of what I have read on AussieFrogs and FrenchCarForum UK hasn't given me quite the answer I would like.

    My car is a 1995 Xantia Series 1 with aircon. The blower fans worked intermittently in a staged fashion. That is, one would select either Max or Auto for the speed. Nothing would neccessarily happen until one hit a bump and then the blower fans would operate. I used to leave the fan setting alone and generally they would work the next time I used the car. My wife used to switch the fans off as it gave her wrinkles or smoothed out the wrinkles or some vague female stuff.

    Looking at the service history, it appears that a Citroen service centre in Brisbane did a relay insert job of sorts. Rather than putting in the relay near the ignition switch, they put a relay under the glovebox near the blower motor. The steering shroud has been removed at some stage for reasons unknown and flaps around the steering wheel a bit.

    The big brown plug that enters the blower with the four wires has had the thick red wire cut and the relay inserted. The wire from the relay to the brown plug is giving 13.9 volts.

    I removed the blower motor and actually extracted the control unit WITHOUT destroying anything. Although it has two screws holding it to the blower motor housing, the control unit is wedged underneath the actual fan and the fan has a relationship to the axle far stronger than my 35 year marriage to my wife. Unable to detach the fan from the spindle, I got my big screwdriver and started Torture 101 to prise things apart. Along the way I noticed that the motor and spindle seemd to have a "friction" fit to the housing base and judicious use of the screw driver managed to part them enough for swearing and anger to overcome the resistance and extract the control unit.

    There were about four soldered thingos visible (and the solder looked good), but the business side of the PC was invisible and the only way to remove it would be to drill out some eyelets. Not having a clue what I was doing, I left well enough alone.

    The blower motor (sans control unit) worked when I connected the lone red wire and lone black wire to a battery.

    I came to the conclusion that there seems to be sufficient power to the blower, the blower itself is working and that the fault is either with the control unit or (maybe) the signal coming from the speed control or (to be honest) Citroen design since the CX (both BXs never had working blowers for long and this Xantia has the family disease).

    Help! My daughter and boyfriend arrive from the UK on Saturday. I have sent them the "Pommie at Karratha" joke (see Humour Section) and wish to keep the Oz experience as a joke, not reality.

    Does anyone know where I can get a blower control unit from? Does anyone know which Peugeot models have the same blower units, as there is a Peugeot dealer 200m away from me?

    If all else fails, I could quickly wire the single black wire to earth and take the output from the relay directly into the single red wire which would give me a blower set at max speed. Also, would anyone know of a rheostat that I could wire into this to give some control over the speed of the blower? I guess I would connect that to the red wire to vary the input voltage.

    One advantage of such a setup is that my wife would never be able to switch off the blower fans.

    John

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  2. #2
    1000+ Posts stuartb's Avatar
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    I use these....2 wires for power in, 2 to the fan and 3 little wires to a rotary pot you mont wherever you want...some electrical joiners and half hours work..been in the old xantia for 2 years with no problem
    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DC-12V-30...item3a6d688bae

    you need to extend the wires to the pot and it squeezes in under the glovebox near the fan....
    I just put an on/off switch in until it arrived from china, full speed only but better than nothing.
    Just the thick black and red wires coming to the power unit directly to the black and red going into the motor, put a switch in either one (heavy duty SPST)

    I replaced the brushes in my fan motor too...just go to an auto electrician and get something similar size and sand it down to a loose fit and solder to the old posts (if the brushes are worn that is...do it while you've got the thing out)
    Last edited by stuartb; 4th December 2011 at 11:08 PM.

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger! Rob T's Avatar
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    Jaycar has a similar controller CAT. NO. AA0349. They also have a kit CAT. NO. KC5225 which I have built in the past. Works fine, but it did induce a high frequency whine from the motor. I see that they now have another controller kit CAT. NO. KC5502 which claims to reduce this whine.

    These are all more expensive than Stuarts ebay item - but you should be able to get them from stock.
    Robert Thorne
    Brisbane
    Citroenless - for now...

  4. #4
    1000+ Posts stuartb's Avatar
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    the ebay one is 30 amp rating tho...jaycars are 10 amps....

  5. #5
    1000+ Posts PeterT's Avatar
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    This has been covered many times! The problem may actually be in the ignition switch. The blower gets +12V from the ignition switch. As the contacts wear, so does your patience. The fix is to fit a relay, right under the barrel, taking the load off the contacts.

    I'm not saying your issue isn't the fan controller or the main supply contacts to it. I replaced the controller only to discover it wasn't the problem. I have the original here if you'd like it - cheap.

    '92 205 Mi16
    '90 Mi16x4

  6. #6
    1000+ Posts stuartb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeterT View Post
    This has been covered many times! The problem may actually be in the ignition switch. The blower gets +12V from the ignition switch. As the contacts wear, so does your patience. The fix is to fit a relay, right under the barrel, taking the load off the contacts.

    I'm not saying your issue isn't the fan controller or the main supply contacts to it. I replaced the controller only to discover it wasn't the problem. I have the original here if you'd like it - cheap.
    Both MK2 xantia i own(ed) had the fan not working and I chased up the ignition switch problem in vain...it was the speed control to the fan...the 12v was getting there fine...Im pretty good with electronics and replaced the TO3 transistors with MJ15023s but still no go , so put in one of the speed contrllers and perfect ever since...the climate control is a fiddly complicated setup and on a 15 year old runabout is hardly worth salvaging...I had a friend just spend over $1000 on a C5 fixing same problem....for $975 less Im happy to do without the auto speed adjustment. (particularly that my latest xantia cost me $500....one of the main reasons I own em...bought for my son and of course all the "expert" friends of his on facebook have said no-one will work on them, they cost a fortune in parts etc etc....I butted in a reply "keep the myth up guys so I can continue to get cheap cars that just have a tad more driving pleasure than an 89 Camry"

  7. #7
    Tadpole
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    Default Xantia blower fan + Series 2 fuel filter connections!

    I owned a 95 2l16v and had exactly the same problem. Fixed by replacing the resistors but only afer I paid a king's ransom from a remplacement from Martin Bray - simple job. I thought I had the same problem on my 99 S/W but, no it was the female brown 4 pin plug into the housing. It needs to be "helped" to stay in place. I did this with a small self tapper. I might say that at the same time I decided to replace the blower fan with the reconditioned one from the 95 model.

    Now I have a problem with changing my fuel filter on the 99. It has fittings totally unlike those of the 95. No clamps. what does one do? Cut the pipe and shove it on the Repco replacement?

    egn

  8. #8
    1000+ Posts stuartb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by egnewing View Post
    . Fixed by replacing the resistors but only afer I paid a king's ransom from a replacement from Martin Bray

    egn
    at least what you bought off him worked...unlike my control arm that was double the price of new aftermarket one from england INCLUDING uk postage (which I got after dealing with him) and lasted a month...totally my fault of course because I didnt pay the extra $10 for a PHOTOCOPIED PAGE from a haynes manual so kindly offered...do I sound like Im dissing him at every possible chance..yes indeed

  9. #9
    1000+ Posts George 1/8th's Avatar
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    Hi John,
    I found out that by pulling out my ignition switch and completely dismantling it I found the cause of the problem.
    On my car someone had cut two of the enormous wires that go to the switch, and fitted a very old relay. The wires used and the soldering, were horrendous, so I returned everything to factory standard.
    The idea of the relay is to stop the heavy load from being switched through the ignition switch. It's a good idea, but I wanted to see how long it would last if I just repaired the ignition switch.
    That was about 2 years ago, and it's just now beginning to play up again.
    Now as I drive, if my blower fan stops I just wiggle the ignition key laterally and it immediately comes back on.
    I think I'll remove the switch again today and clean it again. It's fiddly but it's not hard work.
    There are about 5 thick copper contacts, 5 glass insulator beads, a cam and some springs. These all fall out in a heap as you carefully remove the clip on cover. You just have to work out how to put them all back together so it all works again. A fun puzzle with the following results, if you solve the puzzle your car will start again, if you don't you will have to source an alternative switch unit.

    Cheers, George 1/8th:

  10. #10
    1000+ Posts stuartb's Avatar
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    the ignition switch problem doesnt apply to series 2 apparently

  11. #11
    JBN
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    Quote Originally Posted by George 1/8th View Post
    I think I'll remove the switch again today and clean it again. It's fiddly but it's not hard work.
    There are about 5 thick copper contacts, 5 glass insulator beads, a cam and some springs. These all fall out in a heap as you carefully remove the clip on cover. You just have to work out how to put them all back together so it all works again. A fun puzzle with the following results, if you solve the puzzle your car will start again, if you don't you will have to source an alternative switch unit.

    Cheers, George 1/8th:
    George, would you take some photos as you dismantle and clean the ignition switch. Perhaps line up the copper contacts, glass insulator beads cam and springs into the order in which they should go back. Might reduce the chance of someone else getting things wrong.

    I do not believe that I have a problem (yet) in that area, in that I have over 13V (constant) going into the blower motor control unit. I did have intermittent operation for a while but that was a bad connection into the brown 4 wire plug into the blower.

    I have purchased that potentiometer from eBay. My previous experience with BX blowers is that Citroen has the same success with electronics as Napoleon had a Waterloo. I cannot accept the fact that 2 BXs and 1 Xantia have had this problem, yet a crappy (read CRAPPY) Mitsubishi Colt I had for years or my daughters crappy (small "c") Lancer both had had bullet proof blower fans (as I expect 99.9% of other Japanese cars).

    My original reason for buying a Citroen (in 1984) was that they were CHEAP. It is that reason why I bought 2 CXs, 2 BXs and now 1 Xantia.

    The 2CVs I bought because they have soul and personality - no other cars of any brand nor model have that.

    John

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