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Thread: C5 wheel alignment and tyre question

  1. #26
    Tadpole
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    Thanks to everyone's commentary on "tyres and technicalities". Unfortunately, I am unable to converse with most of you on the finer points of the "wonderful works of the wheelbarrow", let alone the marvels of European engineering (or not)!
    However, I appreciate the in depth approach many of you possess, and respect your knowledge on even the most basic questions in these forums.
    I am an ageing "Tadpole", and my long time retired mechanic mate is questioning his judgement about our friendship and my belated "love affair" with the rather graceful "CITROEN-ELLA".
    I need to get the starter motor attended to now, as about every two or three weeks I have to get out and get under to tap the solenoid, for some action to occur at the key start! I am sure I will find a thread to help me with that on the froggies.....
    Again, thanks to you all.
    Paul

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  2. #27
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    It's well off the topic, but I'll respond here re the starter and leave it at that. Golfa (Paul), the starter is not a complicated unit and is easily serviced. It's part of the Valeo D6RA family and you can buy brushes and solenoids for it inexpensively. Your mechanic friend should have no trouble taking it apart. While I expect you wouldn't be doing any work on it yourself, note that when replacing the brushes, it's important that the loop on the spring slips under the metal tang on the end of the body and not just the plastic brush holder. The easiest way to install the spring is to fit the spring without the brushes in their slots, ensure it's clipped around the metal tang and then lift the spring arms out of the way to fit the brushes. It would become clear when working on the starter. Another failure that stops the starter working is where the magnets are no longer attached to the inside of the body, but that's probably not your problem as the starter still works. Anyway, it needn't be an expensive exercise.
    Last edited by David S; 20th March 2018 at 11:46 AM.

  3. #28
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    Thank you David. I will certainly follow up on your helpful advice.
    I just love this car, (it is not my daily driver) and I purchased it a little over 12 months ago as an "interest" in my retirement. However, my wife has found plenty of other "interests" which she has laid priority too! Hence, this lovely car is awaiting my attention for minor matters, but important ones also. These forums are so helpful with people like you on board.
    I should say also, the tyres (Bridgestone Super-Cats) have made a huge difference to the comfort and feel again. $411 well spent Regards, Paul
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  4. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by David S View Post
    The C5 2001 to 2008 has trailing arms without adjustment, but the multi-link rear end used in the 407 and X7 C5 does have adjustment.
    Just had new tyres and wheel alignment on our X7 C5. They adjusted rear Toe to accord with their database values, but they advised there was no way to adjust rear Camber. Does this sound right? Right rear camber is out of spec.

  5. #30
    COL
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    What is the camber angle suppose to be? and what was the camber angle on your C5?

    If the rear camber is out of spec, it would be wise to find out why. Is it something that has worn such as a bush or maybe its from accident damage at some time in the past.
    Regards Col

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  6. #31
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    Default Camber/bushes/trees all the same

    Quote Originally Posted by COL View Post
    What is the camber angle suppose to be?. Is it something that has worn such as a bush or maybe its from accident damage at some time in the past.
    Worn bushes or trees, all much the same.
    Just cut a new one.

    C5 wheel alignment and tyre question-wheel.jpg

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by COL View Post
    What is the camber angle suppose to be? and what was the camber angle on your C5?

    If the rear camber is out of spec, it would be wise to find out why. Is it something that has worn such as a bush or maybe its from accident damage at some time in the past.
    It is difficult to read that section of report (have asked for an electronic copy) but I think it should be between -0.46 and -1.46 and it is -1.59(?)

  8. #33
    COL
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    Quote Originally Posted by turnbull151 View Post
    It is difficult to read that section of report (have asked for an electronic copy) but I think it should be between -0.46 and -1.46 and it is -1.59(?)
    What was the other side?
    Regards Col

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  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by driven View Post
    Worn bushes or trees, all much the same.
    Just cut a new one.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Bloody Eastern Europeans, trying to emulate BMW suspension feel!
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  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by COL View Post
    What was the other side?
    They reset other side (left) from -1.46 to -1.42. Specs I have quoted (-0.46 to -1.46) are for the left side as I couldn't read right side specs in report (assume they are the same both sides?)
    Last edited by turnbull151; 15th April 2018 at 02:42 PM.

  11. #36
    COL
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    The only thing i can think of is that something is worn in the right side.

    How does the car drive now compared to what it was before the alignment was done?
    Regards Col

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  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Golfa View Post
    <snip>
    I should say also, the tyres (Bridgestone Super-Cats) have made a huge difference to the comfort and feel again. $411 well spent Regards, Paul
    Just be a bit wary of the Supercats in the wet.

  13. #38
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    Manufacturer's figures for the X7 - C5 wheel alignment and tyre question-geometry-rear.jpg

    Camber has no adjustment. If it's out, check the bushes.

  14. #39
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    Found the following outside our garage today; looks very much like wheel weights to me? Had new tyres fitted a couple of weeks ago.

    C5 wheel alignment and tyre question-wheel-weights.jpg

    Assuming they are, could not believe they appear to have been affixed with just a self adhesive backing on them (which isn't that sticky!). No wonder they tell us to have our wheels balanced regularly.
    Last edited by turnbull151; 24th April 2018 at 06:27 PM.

  15. #40
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    Most alloy wheels use adhesive mounted weights.,

  16. #41
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    Given our garden hose (with low pressure) seems to have dislodged this one, what chance they would stay affixed to say a Land Cruiser wheel spinning in sand or mud?

    Had this one dislodged anywhere else, I would probably have driven for the life of the tyres with at least one unbalanced wheel.

  17. #42
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    Hi All

    Recently returned member.

    I have a C5 X7 3.0 HDI that recently had a rear tyre wear issue.

    I had 4 new Michelin PS4 tyres fitted about 14,000ks ago in January 2017.

    When having the car serviced in March by a dealer I was told that rears tyres were worn to wear markers. Sure enough they were but fronts had plenty of tread.

    I took the car to the JAX store that fitted the tyres and was told in effect it was my fault because I din't have the tyres realigned at six monthly intervals. The issue of no abnormal wear on the fronts was dismissed as irrelevant.

    So I went to another tyre dealer who was surprised that a FWD car would trash rear tyres only - as was everyone else I spoke to about it. The guy said that many places only do a front wheel alignment on FWDs anyway. In the end I had the fronts moved to the back and new PS4s on the front.

    I also had a front and rear alignment done by a specialist aligner who said he had experienced an identical problem with another C5.

    Seems clear to me that there can be rear alignment issues on the X7 that can be addressed by competent alignment.

  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by turnbull151 View Post
    Given our garden hose (with low pressure) seems to have dislodged this one, what chance they would stay affixed to say a Land Cruiser wheel spinning in sand or mud?

    Had this one dislodged anywhere else, I would probably have driven for the life of the tyres with at least one unbalanced wheel.
    So there are two different types of wheel weight, the standard "knock on" type that everyone knows and loves, and these "stick on" types. Stick ons are used where knock ons can't be, such as alloy wheels that don't have the little ridge around the circumference for a knock on to sit in. Yes, they are attached only by a foamy type adhesive tape, and if they are attached correctly they will never come off on their own, under any conditions.

    As I'm sure you can imagine, preparation is key to proper adhesion. The rim first needs to be thoroughly cleaned with brake cleaner, or similar, at the site where the weight will be put. This is what has gone wrong here, basically the bloke who balanced your wheels is a shit tyre fitter and didn't clean all the brake dust and road grime etc off first.

    If done correctly, stick on weights stick so well that they are a pain to remove and will leave most of their adhesive tape behind on the wheel. If you have a look in behind the spokes of an old rim that has been balanced many times, chances are you will see the remnants of dozens of strips of weight!

    Oh, bonus useless information:
    Stick on weights all come in strips of 60 grams and are then cut down by the technician to suit, and the best way to clean adhesive tape off the rim when removing weights is with a caramel wheel.


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