DS spark tubes.
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Thread: DS spark tubes.

  1. #1
    1000+ Posts arunine's Avatar
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    Default DS spark tubes.

    I have to rethread a spark plug on my DS. I will be flying blind as I cannot see what is happening. If I remove the tube I can see what is happening. Can the tubes be removed and how difficult are they to remove?
    The thread repairer is a Powercoil kit M14 X 1.25 pitch. It is a double tap with no drilling required.
    Any suggestions appreciated.

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  2. #2
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Pretty sure they are a press fit. The local head places remove them when you get the head tested (given the scratching on the studs and tubes).

    I'm sure someone will answer shortly that's removed them.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
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  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger! CorneSoutAfrica's Avatar
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    Yes, they can be removed

    Usually the engineering guys neutralise the resin holding it in place, or they just pull it out by twisting it with quite a bit of power, that is if the head is removed... if the head is still in place

    I wonder what type of resin or glue you need to fit it back in? I think the type used by Citroen back in the assembly days no longer exists?

    Cheers
    Corne
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  4. #4
    1000+ Posts pottsy's Avatar
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    Had a Peugeot head restored once. All was fine putting it back on the car until I tried to put the spark plugs in and couldn't get one in. Rang the reconditioners (a bit testily I'll admit) and they sent a bloke out to sort it on the car.

    He used a spark plug socket which was almost exactly the inside diameter of the tube. He inserted this then gripped the tube with vise grips (mole grips, depending what school you went to) and with a twisting motion eased the tube out of the head.

    Replacing it was a matter of lining it up and tapping it back in with a bit of wood on the end and a medium strength hammer. Got to say I was impressed by the service. May have had something to do with the megadollars they charged for the work.

    I suspect the DS head is built pretty much the same. I think the only bit that needs care is to match the inside diameter to avoid squashing the tube.

    Good luck, Pottsy
    Last edited by pottsy; 11th April 2011 at 10:19 PM.
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  5. #5
    1000+ Posts arunine's Avatar
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    The head is still on the car and will not be coming off, as I don't want to upset the wet liners.
    I will be trying to heat the head with a hairdryer before the attempt.
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  6. #6
    1000+ Posts pottsy's Avatar
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    Not suggesting you should disturb the head. On my Pug it was done in situ as I'd already re-installed it and I was buggered if I was going to take it off again just to sort out the re-coil.

    That's why I was a little testy at the time.

    Would a plug stay seated for a while at idle so the motor could warm up before attempting the removal? (Or is it too badly stripped?)

    Cheers, Pottsy
    Buvito Ergo Sum!

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  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger!
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    I have done a few with the tubes in place. However, I use a KD sleeve insert instead of a helicoil type repair.

    The KD tap is driven by a hexagon the same size as a spark plug, and a standard plug socket, located in the tube as mentioned by Pottsy, extension and handle were all that was needed. The sleeves are located and locked in place by a tapered section at the top of the thread, which is driven hard home with a spark plug.

    Using a coil would be difficult, as it must not protrude into the combustion space, and if too short carbon buildup on the exposed thread at the end of the plug may tend to remove the insert when you remove the plug.

    There are a few brands of sleeve replacements available, comparable in price to the coil alternative in price.

    Best of luck,

    fento

  8. #8
    1000+ Posts arunine's Avatar
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    Job completed. Being a retired house painter, I have a roller coater extension handle that just fits inside the tube.
    I rocked the tube out in a circular motion, it took about 20 minutes, no damage done, I now have to remove the inserted coil snap-off tag, with a small vacuum pipe through the plug hole, plus the oil that was in the plug tube. I have a head gasket kit coming soon.
    Last edited by arunine; 12th April 2011 at 03:48 PM. Reason: context missing.
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  9. #9
    1000+ Posts Wildebeest's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by arunine View Post
    Job completed. Being a retired house painter, I have a roller coater extension handle that just fits inside the tube.
    I rocked the tube out in a circular motion, it took about 20 minutes, no damage done, I now have to remove the inserted coil snap-off tag, with a small vacuum pipe through the plug hole, plus the oil that was in the plug tube. I have a head gasket kit coming soon.
    arunine,
    Remove the coil tab with your needle nosed pliers. [Put the piston on tdc before attempting]
    To secure the plug tubes, use one of LocTites products. I think the olde Peugeot tubes used Stag jointing compound. Old timers like Pugrambo and self know this product along with 'Litharge', this was a paste made up from 'red lead' powder and glycerine.

  10. #10
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wildebeest View Post
    arunine,
    Remove the coil tab with your needle nosed pliers. [Put the piston on tdc before attempting]
    To secure the plug tubes, use one of LocTites products. I think the olde Peugeot tubes used Stag jointing compound. Old timers like Pugrambo and self know this product along with 'Litharge', this was a paste made up from 'red lead' powder and glycerine.
    "Litharge" eh Wildebeeste? I hesitate to make any comments about age of fellow Froggers of course, as it would only attract comments about me too. If I recall, litharge is lead oxide powder in a paste form - I didn't know it was glycerine that was used. There used to be red lead oxide and white lead oxide (i.e. red litharge and white litharge). If I recall, red litharge was used quite a bit as a sealant for press-fit tubes and things. Welch plugs come to mind. Urggh.

    Alloy heads and plugs - my recipe has always been to tighten just enough for them not to unwind and blow out and to leave them well alone as long as possible, so as not to stress the thread more often that absolutely necessary. I haven't (yet) stripped one (yet..........). Can't control the previous owners' habits of course.

    Cheers
    JohnW

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  11. #11
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    The *only* way to get a cheap paint job is to do it yourself. Sink about $1000 in good quality coatings and disposables and you'll be close..... Then just add a couple of hundred hours of your own labour in there (yes, easily a couple of hundred hours). How much do you value your own time ??

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

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