Removal of headlights DS 23 Safari
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default Removal of headlights DS 23 Safari

    I am about to get the little bit of rust taken out from the mudguards under both headlights on my DS 23 Wagon.

    The panel beater/spray painter is nervous about removing the headlights.

    He is concerned about the cables to the lights etc.

    I don't think he has taken a good look at them yet but he told me he was a bit worried.

    Are there any tricks to removing the headlights and whilst they are out will I be able to get him to repaint the grey colour inside the lights?

    If so what colour is it or is it a special paint?

    Regards Graham

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  2. #2
    Administrator GreenBlood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grahammac View Post
    I am about to get the little bit of rust taken out from the mudguards under both headlights on my DS 23 Wagon.

    The panel beater/spray painter is nervous about removing the headlights.

    He is concerned about the cables to the lights etc.

    I don't think he has taken a good look at them yet but he told me he was a bit worried.

    Are there any tricks to removing the headlights and whilst they are out will I be able to get him to repaint the grey colour inside the lights?

    If so what colour is it or is it a special paint?

    Regards Graham


    Bit of a run down on this about halfway through the thread... titled 'light buckets'.

    GreenBlood’s D(very)Special Rejuvenation 2009>

    Cheers
    Chris
    74 D(very Special) >>Rejuvenation Thread<<
    08 C5 X7 HDi very Noir



    "Déesse" Roland Barthes, 'Mythologies', 1957

    The Déesse has all the characteristics of one of those objects fallen from another universe that fed the mania for novelty in the eighteenth century and a similar mania expressed by modern science fiction: the Déesse is first and foremost the new Nautilus.

    (Umberto Eco [Ed], The History of Beauty, Rizzoli, NY, 2004)

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenBlood View Post
    Bit of a run down on this about halfway through the thread... titled 'light buckets'.

    GreenBlood’s D(very)Special Rejuvenation 2009>

    Cheers
    Chris
    Chris, Many thanks for that. What a fantastic description of what to do.

    I will e-mail it to my repairer in the morning.

    It should frighten the crap out of him.

    I am really appreciative of your help.

    Regards Graham

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Quote Originally Posted by grahammac View Post
    Chris, Many thanks for that. What a fantastic description of what to do.

    I will e-mail it to my repairer in the morning.

    It should frighten the crap out of him.

    I am really appreciative of your help.

    Regards Graham
    Chris, Many thanks I have passed the information re-removal of headlights on to the painter/panel beater and he is now very comfortable with that proceedure.

    Now he wants to know how tricky it is to remove the guards.

    Originally he was going to get the headlights out without removing the gaurds but now he thinks it might be better to take the gaurds off.

    Any suggestions?

    Regards Graham

  5. #5
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    The guards are very easy to remove. Unscrew the few bolts at the front, remove the cross brace and they just lift off the two props at the back edge. These are the easiest cars ever made to remove the panels from. Each door you just screw down the lower hinge. Both the rear guards are one bolt

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/citro%EBn-forum/90325-best-project-car-you-have-ever-seen.html
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    The guards are very easy to remove. Unscrew the few bolts at the front, remove the cross brace and they just lift off the two props at the back edge. These are the easiest cars ever made to remove the panels from. Each door you just screw down the lower hinge. Both the rear guards are one bolt

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Many thanks Shane, I'll pass the info on.

    Regards Graham

  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Graham,
    Traps for young players include:
    (1) not being able to rematch the wires to the lights and horns etc..they are pull apart plugs at the rear ends near the ventilation fan(s)..they in theory were colour coded but time and poor reassembly may mean the colours have changed or the fittings replaced...white discolours and yellow fades, purple degrades to grey...there are also earth versions down near the front bumpers.Numbers on masking tape will ensure they go back the right way.
    (2) the big bolts at the front in front of the wheels and onder the leading edge of the bonnet are 14mm heads..the small ones that support the spare wheel cross brace are small 8mm heads and use a captive bolt system..easily lost or dropped or get stripped threads.
    (3) ensure all the springs and return cables to the light controls are found and labelled..that includes the damper that stops the up/down outer headlight shakes..it is sited about halfway along the mudguard length...a good idea is to take some digital pics before disassembly to reduce brain fade and frustration at re assembly time
    (4) it is now a good time to repair or replace the cardboard air ducts that "shoot" "cold" air from the front bumpers to the fan motors..and clean the gauze "filters" at their ends.Originally foam lined they are probably now bare fragile cardboard..I am sure someone on this site will be able to advise about a modern and better replacement.
    (5) Beware of wires to any of the relays..does the car have any attached to the battery case ? The wires are just long enough and they all look the same if disturbed.

  8. #8
    Administrator GreenBlood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fritzelhund View Post
    Graham,
    Traps for young players include:
    (1) not being able to rematch the wires to the lights and horns etc..they are pull apart plugs at the rear ends near the ventilation fan(s)..they in theory were colour coded but time and poor reassembly may mean the colours have changed or the fittings replaced...white discolours and yellow fades, purple degrades to grey...there are also earth versions down near the front bumpers.Numbers on masking tape will ensure they go back the right way.
    (2) the big bolts at the front in front of the wheels and onder the leading edge of the bonnet are 14mm heads..the small ones that support the spare wheel cross brace are small 8mm heads and use a captive bolt system..easily lost or dropped or get stripped threads.
    (3) ensure all the springs and return cables to the light controls are found and labelled..that includes the damper that stops the up/down outer headlight shakes..it is sited about halfway along the mudguard length...a good idea is to take some digital pics before disassembly to reduce brain fade and frustration at re assembly time
    (4) it is now a good time to repair or replace the cardboard air ducts that "shoot" "cold" air from the front bumpers to the fan motors..and clean the gauze "filters" at their ends.Originally foam lined they are probably now bare fragile cardboard..I am sure someone on this site will be able to advise about a modern and better replacement.
    (5) Beware of wires to any of the relays..does the car have any attached to the battery case ? The wires are just long enough and they all look the same if disturbed.
    Very good advice re wiring, I've used a silver permanent marker with a dot system 1 dot, 2 dots etc.

    The card foam lined tubing can be bought new (as can almost anything for a D) from various sources, I recommend Citroworld ( www.citroworld.com ), Geert's prices are very competitive and postal costs from the Netherlands are far more reasonable than most of his competitors.

    Cheers
    Chris
    74 D(very Special) >>Rejuvenation Thread<<
    08 C5 X7 HDi very Noir



    "Déesse" Roland Barthes, 'Mythologies', 1957

    The Déesse has all the characteristics of one of those objects fallen from another universe that fed the mania for novelty in the eighteenth century and a similar mania expressed by modern science fiction: the Déesse is first and foremost the new Nautilus.

    (Umberto Eco [Ed], The History of Beauty, Rizzoli, NY, 2004)

  9. #9
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Nah ... the wiring you'll figure out .... The dents in the bonnet near the wiring connectors are usually from the owners head ............... when they found that wire was the horns...... not the parking lights there looking for

    The real "gotcha" is closing the bonnet and thinking what a good job you just did .......................... and realising with about 1/20 of a second of closing the bonnet ...................... THE BLOODY CABLES TO THE BONNET CATCHES >>......... AAAARRRRhhhhhhhh..... . Apparantly ( ) on the 2nd nose car you can pull the headlights out and reach in and release the bonnet to hook the cables on though Infact I can guarantee this will work

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

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