DS body panel alignment
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  1. #1
    mnm
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    Default DS body panel alignment

    Hi hi hi

    I've been having a wonderful time tinkering with my new toy (1970 D SPecial). I love how all the panels can be aligned!! What a brilliant idea!

    I'm happy with most of them. The rear panels were too low and too close to the boot lid.. metal to metal!.. so I've realigned the gap and lifted them up a bit..

    Question: should the top line of the boot lid be level with the top of the rear panel or just below.. it seems if I raise them up any higher then the alignment between the front edge of the rear panel and the rear door edge will be out.

    Thanks

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    Matthew

  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger! Mort Subite's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mnm View Post
    Hi hi hi

    I've been having a wonderful time tinkering with my new toy (1970 D SPecial). I love how all the panels can be aligned!! What a brilliant idea!

    I'm happy with most of them. The rear panels were too low and too close to the boot lid.. metal to metal!.. so I've realigned the gap and lifted them up a bit..

    Question: should the top line of the boot lid be level with the top of the rear panel or just below.. it seems if I raise them up any higher then the alignment between the front edge of the rear panel and the rear door edge will be out.

    Thanks

    Matthew
    I dont think theres an easy answer for this.

    Panels are aligned from the front wong back,one after the other, slightly inside the preceeding panel to make sure theres no wind noise between the panels and permit proper aerodynamics of the shape.

    The top lip of the side of the boot lid should sit level with the top lip of the rear fenders or very nearly (never lower).
    However as EVERY panel is adjustable in every direction and if theres been some panel work (most very likely) to the rear, these panels are probably going to be all out by a varing degree.
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  3. #3
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Getting a DS with perfect body panel fit is almost the impossible task. If it's very good, don't mess with it ........ you'll probably make it worst. The easiest way to get a good panel fit IMO is start with a car that is already good. A lot of panels never seem to "match" no matter how much you mess with them.

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  4. #4
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    It helps to have a selection of shims to choose from. There are shims behind the striker plates, the hinges on the door frame and on the pillars. Ideally, collect some from a wreck.

    If you can find them, you might want to replace the late plastic rear guard locating pegs on the c-pillar with the early welded steel type, which do not break.

    If you start moving the doors around, be extremely careful about the glass alignment. The rubber bungs in the front and rear of the door frame cover bolts that allow you adjust the glass travel. It's easy to move the door, wind the window right up and smash the glass the next time you close the door.

  5. #5
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    You can smash the windows against the pillars when adjusting too.... Don't ask me how I know this .

    I think you need to strip the panels to bare metal, coat with epoxy, re-assemble glass and hinges.... THEN spend the time getting it right. I found I had to brutally "twist" doors to get them closer. I spent a lot of time on the old ID19 ... and it was still bloody shocking, some windows never fitted there seals, a couple of the doors wouldn't close properly (early cars are more difficult with there door catches) etc...

    seeya
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger! Mort Subite's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    You can smash the windows against the pillars when adjusting too.... Don't ask me how I know this .

    I think you need to strip the panels to bare metal, coat with epoxy, re-assemble glass and hinges.... THEN spend the time getting it right. I found I had to brutally "twist" doors to get them closer. I spent a lot of time on the old ID19 ... and it was still bloody shocking, some windows never fitted there seals, a couple of the doors wouldn't close properly (early cars are more difficult with there door catches) etc...

    seeya
    Shane L.
    imagine what it was like in the factory....
    How many car parts were either discarded or sent time and again for 'adjustment' before going out on a finished car. Precision in the hydraulics maybe but not in the panel build quality, probably coz it was too expensive to get it as perfect as we have come to expect of cars.
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  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger! ARCHRIVAL's Avatar
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    Thats why in the factory you see every man and his frog have a big rubber hammer in their back pocket . Old jaguars take the cake with sometimes more than 10mm of lead wiping to make things line up and I can remember a fairly late model Roller that was involved in an altercation with a bollard and the amount of original bog that fell off was astounding
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    (early cars are more difficult with there door catches)
    If you pull the door catch mechanisms out of the doors and lubricate them properly before you adjust the catches you will be astonished how well they work. I have done this on my 1959 DS19 and the doors close easily.

    Roger

  9. #9
    Fellow Frogger! Mort Subite's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Wilkinson View Post
    If you pull the door catch mechanisms out of the doors and lubricate them properly before you adjust the catches you will be astonished how well they work. I have done this on my 1959 DS19 and the doors close easily.

    Roger
    aha
    Ive also seen how mangled and loose the mechanisms on these old cars get.
    The lift up "Anti-burst" style door locks dont have the same issues.
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  10. #10
    mnm
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Wilkinson View Post
    If you pull the door catch mechanisms out of the doors and lubricate them properly before you adjust the catches you will be astonished how well they work. I have done this on my 1959 DS19 and the doors close easily.

    Roger

    The previous owners of my D SPecial had been slamming the front passenger door for years.. when I got it home I grabbed a phillips head, moved the striker plate a tad and it now closes with little effort. Actually all the doors click closed pretty well.. it has the old style handles not the flush ones. When my nephew saw the car ( he's only 9) he says "wow, I like the door handles!".. I thought it was funny. They think the quarter windows on my beetle are funny too!

    Matthew

  11. #11
    Fellow Frogger! Mort Subite's Avatar
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    ...but 1/4 windows are funny.

    D's (apparently) dont need them as they have fan forced ventilation..... (aka fan forced oven).
    CITROEN CAR CLUB of NSW - MEMBER. www.citroencarclub.org.au. . .www.facebook.com/CCCNSW
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  12. #12
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    Listen for the 'ping' when you close a door - the sign of a good D I'm told!

  13. #13
    mnm
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    Quote Originally Posted by David S View Post
    Listen for the 'ping' when you close a door - the sign of a good D I'm told!

    Hmmm.. more of a click/clack.

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