another bx auto problem (Alan??)
  • Help
Page 1 of 2 12 Last
Results 1 to 25 of 28
  1. #1
    Tadpole dutronc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    29

    Default another bx auto problem (Alan??)

    hi Alan,
    yet another bx auto problem question!!
    I have an '89 TRI that I have had for 3 years and the auto box is starting to go. It's not too bad at the moment (the changes are a bit jerky and can sometimes drop down roughly or jump up like the car is having a seizure) - I have just picked the car up from Elliot at the French Garage who had a good look at it but he thinks the gearbox is beyond salvage, so he recommended 2 options:
    - keep driving the car as it is until the auto gives out
    - OR - he can replace the gearbox with a reconditioned one for around $2-$2500

    So, my question is this - how reliable and lasting are replacement gearboxes?
    I have already spent a lot on this car, and other than the gearbox she is in great condition - 150,000 km's, no scratches and great condition inside (no cracks in the dash even!). I just had the rear arms and front struts done last year, a new air flow divider, ignition module and fuel pump among other things
    and most importantly, I love the car, I don't want to get rid of her
    So if you can give me any info on replacement box's - success stories or failures - I would be most grateful.

    thanks in advance,
    Philip

    Advertisement

  2. #2
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aust.
    Posts
    16,751

    Default

    Your first question should be "What oil is in the gearbox" ... You can then proceed from there.

    It's probably been DIII'd.

    seeya
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/citro%EBn-forum/90325-best-project-car-you-have-ever-seen.html
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Scotland
    Posts
    169

    Default

    Just to make sure the simple things are checked first (occams razor ) how are the engine mountings ?

    On my (auto) Xantia the changes sometimes jerk a little bit and I discovered there is a boatload of slack in the top engine mounting.

    If I put the hand brake on firmly and switch between drive and reverse just at idling speed the engine rocks about 30mm each way from neutral. Although I havnt replaced them yet so I can't tell for sure how much its affecting the gearchange, I doubt it can be good for smooth gearchanges....

    Regards,
    Simon
    1998 Xantia Mk2 V6 Auto Exclusive

  4. #4
    Tadpole dutronc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    29

    Default

    yes Shane I think you're right
    The ATF was not regularly changed early in the car's life (probably not until I got it) but until I started taking it to Elliott last year I can't say for sure what they have been putting in (I got the car from Melb Citroen than later took it to Paris Motors). But unfortunately the damage is now done and even with the proper ATF (which makes a difference) it is still too far gone on its way.
    So...am I crazy to think of a replacement box when the car is otherwise in great condition??
    basically, will it work and will it last?

  5. #5
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Queensland, Australia
    Posts
    8,923

    Default

    Well so far the results on all BX boxes we've done anything to has been positive.
    We have found that if they've been run on Dex3 and have the jumps and jerks coupled to weird changes, it is usually a case of dumping the D3 and changing to D2. I can show you one transmission that has had about 24 litres of D2 flushed through it; when it began, he would lose all forward drive occasionally and it would stall at corners just like a manual stopping without dipping the clutch.
    He took the baseplate off the transmission, removed the filter cover (that's the one with all the different length screws that must go back in the ame spots or can create major dramas) removed and cleaned the filter and (extremely important) adjusted the kick down cable correctly.
    I an 90% there on a similar thing on one and in my case, I feel the last 10% of problems will be fixed with the fitting of new lower engine mount. I have flushed Transmax M through and have even tried a bottle of Nulon G60 Auto transmission additive, after all my successes with the G70 manual stuff, it'd be hypocritical for me to not at least try. This box is now as sweet as a nut apart from the occasional holding on which a tranny man has suggested may be fixed by the fitting of this lower engine mount which he feels is affecting theselection adjustment.
    As regards how far the ZF boxes go; well it seems according to Euro mechanics working on cars with these boxes in but who don't poison them with the Dex3, 500K klms isn't all that uncommon, but with the D3 in there, you can kiss them goodbye anywhere from 90 - 150K klms
    I'd suggest you have him check the kickdown cable for starters; we had one that the nipple on the cable was jamming against the outer cable and not allowing it to fully return and then do a weekly flush with TransmaxM getting the filter cleaned after a couple of flushes to see how it all goes.
    This has worked every time for us and providing you now have the D2/transmaxM in it, dump a bottle of Nulon Autp additve and see what difference it makes; I reckon you'll be pleasantly surprised.


    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  6. #6
    Tadpole dutronc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    29

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mandrake
    Just to make sure the simple things are checked first (occams razor ) how are the engine mountings ?

    On my (auto) Xantia the changes sometimes jerk a little bit and I discovered there is a boatload of slack in the top engine mounting.

    If I put the hand brake on firmly and switch between drive and reverse just at idling speed the engine rocks about 30mm each way from neutral. Although I havnt replaced them yet so I can't tell for sure how much its affecting the gearchange, I doubt it can be good for smooth gearchanges....

    Regards,
    Simon
    Hi Simon,
    yes had it checked - didn't want to think it was the dreaded auto box curse -even had the kickdown cable adjusted but it didn't help much.
    The changes have gradually been getting worse in the 3 years I've had the car, sometimes I can anticipate the change up and ease her in, but it's only a matter of time...

    thanks for your feedback though

  7. #7
    Tadpole dutronc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    29

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Alan S
    Well so far the results on all BX boxes we've done anything to has been positive.
    We have found that if they've been run on Dex3 and have the jumps and jerks coupled to weird changes, it is usually a case of dumping the D3 and changing to D2. I can show you one transmission that has had about 24 litres of D2 flushed through it; when it began, he would lose all forward drive occasionally and it would stall at corners just like a manual stopping without dipping the clutch.
    He took the baseplate off the transmission, removed the filter cover (that's the one with all the different length screws that must go back in the ame spots or can create major dramas) removed and cleaned the filter and (extremely important) adjusted the kick down cable correctly.
    I an 90% there on a similar thing on one and in my case, I feel the last 10% of problems will be fixed with the fitting of new lower engine mount. I have flushed Transmax M through and have even tried a bottle of Nulon G60 Auto transmission additive, after all my successes with the G70 manual stuff, it'd be hypocritical for me to not at least try. This box is now as sweet as a nut apart from the occasional holding on which a tranny man has suggested may be fixed by the fitting of this lower engine mount which he feels is affecting theselection adjustment.
    As regards how far the ZF boxes go; well it seems according to Euro mechanics working on cars with these boxes in but who don't poison them with the Dex3, 500K klms isn't all that uncommon, but with the D3 in there, you can kiss them goodbye anywhere from 90 - 150K klms
    I'd suggest you have him check the kickdown cable for starters; we had one that the nipple on the cable was jamming against the outer cable and not allowing it to fully return and then do a weekly flush with TransmaxM getting the filter cleaned after a couple of flushes to see how it all goes.
    This has worked every time for us and providing you now have the D2/transmaxM in it, dump a bottle of Nulon Autp additve and see what difference it makes; I reckon you'll be pleasantly surprised.


    Alan S

    Alan - many thanks for such a quick and detailed response.
    I've had the kickdown cable adjusted before, but I'll try it again and see what difference it makes together with the change to D2.
    I was hoping that the box wasn't too far gone to be brought back to life with the D2, but maybe that's dreaming.
    If the worst case scenario means a complete auto change, than going by what you have said it is well worth it. If I can look forward to 300+ks and many years of auto-problem free driving I would be happy to pay.

    thanks agin for your help.

  8. #8
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    169

    Default

    Dutronic I hope it works out for you , I had a Bx16TRS Auto and thought
    it was great but the Auto was a bit of a pain!

    It had only done 120k , problem was it was left to sit for 2 years or more without being driven, I bought it unaware of this, when I replaced the coolant I noticed a pool of coolant under the car the next morning, when I got underneath to have a look I could'nt believe my eyes the block had tiny holes in it (unlike swiss cheese) from old coolant which had corroded it away!

    Moral of the story CHANGE THE COOLANT REGULARLY(as specified by manufacturer) especially with Alloy blocks!!!

  9. #9
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Queensland, Australia
    Posts
    8,923

    Default

    Yep, the Trs was a problem with corrosion but believe it or not (don't cry now raver) thet could be fixed often quite easily.
    Biggest problem was as has been said, corrosion due to using water, but they had one particular weak spot between cylinders one and two.
    Simple and long term cure was to reem out a hole where the leak was, then carefully wind a drill into the hole, followed by a tap. A bolt was then cut off at about 10mm length, covered in Devcon epoxy and screwed into the threaded hole. Residual Devcon was then painted over the head of the bolt and plastered onto the surrounding metal on the block which was cleaned up before doing the job, left overnight and filled with good coolant and it would last almost forever; never heard of one that had that treatment ever leaking again and the whole job took an hour and cost about $15. Remember this for future reference in case you need to use it.


    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  10. #10
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    169

    Default

    No one ever suggested that to me at the time

    I was told the only way was to replace the block, by 2 Citroen specialists!

  11. #11
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Queensland, Australia
    Posts
    8,923

    Default

    The onl;y one I ever saw that it wasn't viable to do it to was one that had a hole at the front just under the head and in a position that was so difficult to get to that the negine would have to be out of the car. The rest were all between 1 & 2 where the casting was very thin & I suspect without coolant that electrolysis may have occurred between the sleeves and the alloy of the block.


    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  12. #12
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Queensland, Australia
    Posts
    8,923

    Default

    Speaking of BX autos.
    Just a reminder; if anyone has a stuffed BX auto box lying around that they no longer wish to use as a door stop or a paper weight, we will pay the freight to get it to us for experimental purposes.
    We just want one we can strip, cut up, tear apart and eventually just throw it down the tip which is why we'll pay for freight and no more as the results of what we find will be to the benefit of other Cit owners and not us; to us it's only academic to find what does really go on these things and if there's any simple way to rectify or extend the life of them.
    Our results will be committed to print and photos for the future use of others.


    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  13. #13
    Fellow Frogger! tlampre's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    167

    Icon3

    I might be able to lend a hand here...

    If Philips box is truly beyond hope I'm happy to donate the box from my 16TRS to him, assuming it will fit the 19TRI bell housing and the ratios are right.

    In return, Philips old box can go to Alan for exploratory surgery.

    I'm hoping to make another attempt at bringing my car home on March 18. I notice Philip is in Melbourne too, which makes for an easy swap. The transmission from my car is in good shape. It drove well before I changed the ATF just after I got it so I reckon it's been running D2 in the past. It stumbled a bit just after I got the ATF changed but then settled. Maybe it was just getting used to some clean stuff.

    Is the box from my car compatible?

  14. #14
    Tadpole dutronc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    29

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tlampre
    I might be able to lend a hand here...

    If Philips box is truly beyond hope I'm happy to donate the box from my 16TRS to him, assuming it will fit the 19TRI bell housing and the ratios are right.

    In return, Philips old box can go to Alan for exploratory surgery.

    I'm hoping to make another attempt at bringing my car home on March 18. I notice Philip is in Melbourne too, which makes for an easy swap. The transmission from my car is in good shape. It drove well before I changed the ATF just after I got it so I reckon it's been running D2 in the past. It stumbled a bit just after I got the ATF changed but then settled. Maybe it was just getting used to some clean stuff.

    Is the box from my car compatible?
    Hey thanks tlampre, that's a very generous offfer!!
    Does anyone know if this is possible, would the box from a 16 TRS fit into a 19TRI??? If so it would make things much easier and cut the costs down.
    Any feedback would be most helpful, and I'll talk to Elliot about the swap over.
    thanks again!

  15. #15
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aust.
    Posts
    16,751

    Default

    Oh god, not again ..... Please don't go asking the mighty 'P' motors in Melbourne for this 'exchange'. The main problem I envision is the 16trs does *not* have a timing hole in the bell housing for the TDC sensor. Just accurantly measure/trace where it is on the other gearbox and drill/mount the sensor.

    It's probably the same box ??

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  16. #16
    Fellow Frogger! tlampre's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    167

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron
    Oh god, not again ..... Please don't go asking the mighty 'P' motors in Melbourne for this 'exchange'.
    I concur.

  17. #17
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aust.
    Posts
    16,751

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tlampre
    I might be able to lend a hand here...

    If Philips box is truly beyond hope I'm happy to donate the box from my 16TRS to him, assuming it will fit the 19TRI bell housing and the ratios are right.

    In return, Philips old box can go to Alan for exploratory surgery.

    I'm hoping to make another attempt at bringing my car home on March 18. I notice Philip is in Melbourne too, which makes for an easy swap. The transmission from my car is in good shape. It drove well before I changed the ATF just after I got it so I reckon it's been running D2 in the past. It stumbled a bit just after I got the ATF changed but then settled. Maybe it was just getting used to some clean stuff.

    Is the box from my car compatible?
    BTW: I find your avatar extremelly disturbing (to say the least)

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  18. #18
    Fellow Frogger! tlampre's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    167

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron
    BTW: I find your avatar extremelly disturbing (to say the least)

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Glad you like it!

  19. #19
    Tadpole dutronc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    29

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron
    Oh god, not again ..... Please don't go asking the mighty 'P' motors in Melbourne for this 'exchange'. The main problem I envision is the 16trs does *not* have a timing hole in the bell housing for the TDC sensor. Just accurantly measure/trace where it is on the other gearbox and drill/mount the sensor.

    It's probably the same box ??

    seeya,
    Shane L.

    Shane, I stopped going to P motors last year after an episode with a faulty replacement ignition module that came apart in my hands
    And the failure to diagnose my hot start problem as a air flow divider failure (Cit Melbourne also failed to diagnose this problem when I repeatedly asked) and since then I have taked the car to Elliot at the French Garage in Moorabbin, who has been nothing but honest and reliable in his work.
    If the replacement has to be done, I would trust him with doing it. I will give him a call and ask about the TRS fit, but I'll keep in mind your instruction about the drill mount.
    thanks.

  20. #20
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    318

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dutronc
    Hey thanks tlampre, that's a very generous offfer!!
    Does anyone know if this is possible, would the box from a 16 TRS fit into a 19TRI??? If so it would make things much easier and cut the costs down.
    Any feedback would be most helpful, and I'll talk to Elliot about the swap over.
    thanks again!
    A TRi does not have the TDC, so I would expect that they should be compatible.

    The quick test for having a TDC is whether the dash has the ubiquitous check engine light, if it does it's Motronic & has a TDC. AFAIK only TRi 122 & TZi have a check engine light.

    Barry.

  21. #21
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aust.
    Posts
    16,751

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by barryg
    A TRi does not have the TDC, so I would expect that they should be compatible.

    The quick test for having a TDC is whether the dash has the ubiquitous check engine light, if it does it's Motronic & has a TDC. AFAIK only TRi 122 & TZi have a check engine light.

    Barry.
    Are you sure, without the TDC sensor, how does it know when to fire the injectors ??? (possibly it could just use the firing of the coil, but I doubt it ). I guess I better wander up the back yard and prove myself wrong

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  22. #22
    Fellow Frogger! chris's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Sydney/Marsfield
    Posts
    376

    Default

    Surely it should fire the injector well before TDC anyway, what with not being a diesel The dizzy signal could tell the computer which cylinder needs fuel next (you can wire up a MegaSquirt this way IIRC). Or I could be talking cr@p, wouldn't be the first time.

    Chris
    GS 1220 break. Beige cars go faster

  23. #23
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    318

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron
    Are you sure, without the TDC sensor, how does it know when to fire the injectors ??? (possibly it could just use the firing of the coil, but I doubt it ). I guess I better wander up the back yard and prove myself wrong

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Here's the Bosch parts used by the two variants:

    BX 19 03.86 - 12.94 DFZ
    SOHC 4 cyl. 1.9L
    LU-Jetronic (LU 2)
    Oxygen Sensor 0 258 003 508 > 6/86
    0 258 003 078 7/86 >
    Injector Valve 0 280 150 734 > 5/88
    0 280 150 762 6/88 >
    Fuel Pump 0 580 464 070
    Air Flow/Mass Sensor 0 280 202 097
    Pressure Regulator 0 280 160 258
    Control Unit 0 280 000 345
    Fuel Filter F5002
    Coolant Temp. Sensor 0 280 130 026
    Auxiliary Air Valve 0 280 140 182, > 5/88
    0 280 140 183 6/88 >
    Throttle Valve Sensor 0 280 120 310, > 2/88
    0 280 120 327 3/88 >
    Jetronic Relay 0 280 230 006

    405 01.89 - 12.92 DKZ
    4 cyl. 1.9L
    Motronic (M 1.3)
    Oxygen Sensor 0 258 003 078
    Injector Valve 0 280 150 762
    Fuel Pump 0 580 464 070
    Air Flow/Mass Sensor 0 280 202 202
    Pressure Regulator 0 280 160 258
    Control Unit 0 261 200 160
    Fuel Filter F5095
    Coolant Temp. Sensor 0 280 130 026
    Auxiliary Air Valve 0 280 140 183
    Throttle Valve Sensor 0 280 120 327
    Pressure Damper 0 280 161 030
    Engine Speed Sensor 0 261 210 043
    Canister Purge Valve 0 280 142 157

    Note that the DFZ LU 2 Jetronic doesn't have the Engine Speed Sensor. From memory LU 2 has the injectors running all the time and the computer has no control over ignition - this is done by a conventional dizzy with the vacuum advance etc. Motronic not only controls the injection more tightly but also controls ignition timing/advance. This is why they go better & use less fuel.

    Barry.

  24. #24
    Fellow Frogger! Jack Z's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Gosford, NSW
    Posts
    302

    Default

    Dutronc...

    Our TZi was displaying all the usual Auto failure symptoms...

    Holding onto gear... not changing up... clunking on changeover as if it was grabbing... etc etc... and now almost 12 months and 50,000klms later it's replacement has been faultless... BUT knowing what Alan has shared... I too am confident that it was at least worth a shot at saving when it first started playing up...

    What did we do... ?? well the obvious... took it to the Auto Specialist who changed the filter and then refilled it with (more) DIII of course...!!! And then just kept driving it until it become intolerable...

    We were fortunate to find an Auto out of a P405 that had been rebuilt with all reciepts and had not even had it's first service when the (uninsured) car was written off... and luckily it has been great... having been run on Castrol Transmax Z and more recently Transmax M....

    I'd persist with the flush, refill, flush. filter, etc etc process before even contemplating a swap....and given my time over again having been through it would do exactly that...

    Good luck with it all....
    BX TZI Hatch
    BX TRI Hatch
    GS C-Matic

  25. #25
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Queensland, Australia
    Posts
    8,923

    Default

    If you go down the flush and fill route as I suggested above, there seems to be one common trait that frightens the $#!+ out of everybody (me included) and that is in the early stages, prior to and just following the change from D3 to D2 it will improve but at the same time, it will still retain a few of the D3 traits; whacking great downchanges that "chirp" the tyres followed by the car refusing to downshift at you approach an intersection usually culminating in the engine stalling as a manual would if the clutch wasn't pushed in. Then when you try to take off, you have no froward gears which is fun at a set of lights The natural response is to start pushing the selector in and out of drive but you'll find you still have reverse, so after threatening to jam the steering wheel up the anal tract of the goose behind who is blowing the horn and screaming (at which point I found he wound his window up and suddenly found a way to drive off as quickly as he could when I got out of the car) you reverse the car off the road, switch off, count to 10 and restart the engine at which point you'll find you have all forward gears again.
    To prevent this, you either manually drop the car back into 3rd once you are approaching an intersectio where you may need to stop or as soon as you strike a restricted speed area, just drive in 3rd which most tend to do with these boxes anyway as they only seem to hang on in top but perform perfectly normally when driven or manually changed into 3rd. The thinking is that the D3 causes either the lock up clutch to get coated with something that causes the hang on or there is a valve that sticks again as a result of something in the D3
    You'll find, that given time, a few miles and a few flushes, and a dose of the Nulon G60 Auto additive, that it eventually all starts to behave as normal and you will end up with one of the sweetest auto boxes you've ever driven.
    To do this, you need to but a 4 litre drum of Transmax M ($24.99 @ Supercheap) and a 1 litre bottle of the same @ $6.99 same place. That give you 2 full changes. The Nulon comes in a 300 mls bottle again at S/C for around $11.99 so effectively, it will cost you around $16 per flush for say 5 changes plus a further $12 for the 6th change. By theat time it should be greatly improved and you've spent around $100 in the process, so as a gamble it's good odds.


    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

Page 1 of 2 12 Last

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •