Quick paint job anyone ???? - Page 5
  • Register
  • Help
Page 5 of 11 First 123456789 ... Last
Results 101 to 125 of 271
  1. #101
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aust.
    Posts
    16,067

    Default

    Hi Smiffy,

    I'm not doubting my ability ...... To screw up everything at least 10times before I get it close to right ...

    Advertisement


    Another 1hour 15min tonight. I finished wet rubbing the bonnet. What a bloody huge panel, there's a lot of work in that . Upto about 24hours now.

    I think I'll wet rub the roof next and get the biggest panels out of the way.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/citro%EBn-forum/90325-best-project-car-you-have-ever-seen.html
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  2. #102
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aust.
    Posts
    16,067

    Default

    Another hour last night ... 25hours now. I've wet sanded the bulk of the roof back... So far so good. I haven't come across anything that'll need to be fixed yet.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  3. #103
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,160

    Default

    Any tips on bogging up dents?

    Got a small one in the roof & the damned door lock that someone hammered in...!

    I assume i have to beat it out as much as possible, sand back the current paint & then fill it up & sand back...

    I'd like to put something behind the hole though, dont think bog will fill the gap by itself solidly...

    Tips?
    Any tricks with the bog application?

  4. #104
    Moderator vivid's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    parallel 43į south
    Posts
    1,802

    Default

    Obviously your R5 is a basket case, and beyond DIY repair.
    I'll do you a favour and take it of your hands for $500

    Seriously tho, I have a spot in the door I have cut out, (ill attach a photo) that is the same, wouldn't want to bog it alone. I'll be (asking shane nicely) spotting in a peice of metal first, knocking it back and bogging to finish before painting. Sounds like you could do with a nice solid piece for structural support, (with a hole cut in it for the lock) welded in first. Got any Photos?

    David.

  5. #105
    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Don't remind me!
    Posts
    16,610

    Default

    I'll probably upset someone now by naming names but for Nate's repair he could talk to "John Lynn" panelbeaters in Thornleigh (no heads up backsides there). If there is metal removed or destroyed then filler isn't going to do the job alone. You would need a small patch MIG welded in.

    For dents with paint, like on the roof, get an opinion from a paintless dent removal person.

    A "backed" repair (not butt welded but one behind the other) risks corrosion starting in the lap. This is not the case when the lap is 100% filled with a panel bonding product like Fusor or the 3M equivalent.

    Filler is highly porous, primer slightly less so but topcoat does the job of topcoat best (not surprising!). Filler should always be sealed with a good coat of primer - even if it needs further filling or sanding later. Hopefully Shane is going to post a pic of his bleeding, raw, fingertips tonight as he slaves toward that new gloss. There's 2-3m≥ on a roof, and you really appreciate that when wetsanding!

    Cheers, Adam.

  6. #106
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aust.
    Posts
    16,067

    Default

    Hi Guys,

    I say bog them if the metal is sound. You see I have some old ID19 doors here that I thought were perfect ... I found a small bit of filler in the bottom corner of one of the doors. So I decided to take it back to bare metal. I found the whole bottom of both doors from the crease down (ie: whole lower door skin) was bog that was at least 1cm deep

    The doors must have had whole new lower sections welded in about 30years ago... the whole area bashed down with big hammers and several kgs of filler used over the top. It was still perfect and sound ... and was probably 30years old (very faded buggered black paint on the top).

    So if the metal is sound, I'd just get it as level as possible (or slightly low) then bog it over. The door lock if the metal is sound should be ok to fill to. I can only see a problem if you bogging under the door handle as the force applied to the handle to close the door may crack the filler.

    I think plastic filler is bloody brilliant stuff !!!

    seeya
    Shane L.
    PS: Addo, my hands are fine , you see I've been wearing strong rubber gloves while sanding ... (you don't need a good sense of touch to wet rub... The complete opposite to trying to straighten metal)
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  7. #107
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,160

    Default

    yeah i was thinking i need to cover the hole with something a little stronger...

    Basically i just have to fill the hole where the door lock was... so maybe a 10-20c sized hole...
    i'd rather back it with something, otherwise i think i'd see the door flex & movement popping the bog out eventually...

  8. #108
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aust.
    Posts
    16,067

    Default

    So your actually removing the door lock ??? So blanking off the hole.

    Yep plastic filler is useless for this task. You need to weld some metal in there. If your really dodgy you could hammer the surrounding area low so there's some area for fiberglass filler to key into .... Fiberglass stranded filler is very strong (but I wouldn't personally do this).

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  9. #109
    CitroŽn, what else? smiffy1071's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Bristol/England!
    Posts
    1,487

    Default

    If you don't have access to a welder, the other way, is to pop rivet a plate on the inside of the door using countersunk rivets, and then hit the rivets inwards with a hammer, then use filler to get the contour back how you want it. Ok, it sounds like butchery, and it is, but if you are good with filler, and a sander, you would never know the difference!!! john s
    2005 C5 2.0 VTR Hdi 138, 1986 Kawasaki GPz 750G2

  10. #110
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Queensland, Australia
    Posts
    8,923

    Default

    I've reinforced large caverns with fly screen mesh as reinforcement before today and that's worked well. If you just clean behind before you start if possible and cover the mesh with bog, then press it against the metal, let it dry and then build up from there it seems to hang in there pretty well.
    Kind of thing you do if you're doing a hit 'n run rather than something you intend keeping just the same.


    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  11. #111
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,160

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron
    So your actually removing the door lock ??? So blanking off the hole.

    Yep plastic filler is useless for this task. You need to weld some metal in there. If your really dodgy you could hammer the surrounding area low so there's some area for fiberglass filler to key into .... Fiberglass stranded filler is very strong (but I wouldn't personally do this).

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Yeah some piece of )#($*# removed it for me with a screwdriver & hammer...
    Road Runner tried to get stolen last night

    Welder it'll have to be!

    Whats the biggest hole you'd try to fill with bog?
    (that wouldnt be a butcher job)
    Or do you weld every hole up & just use the bog to smooth it off?
    (bog isnt structural is it...!)

  12. #112
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aust.
    Posts
    16,067

    Default

    Personally I would fill *any* hole with filler. Filler IMO is strictly to level a sounds surface.... It's only reason for being is to make bent metal look nice n' straight

    It WILL fall out if you try to cover a hole or rust with it. The only varaible is how long it will take to fall out. Fiberglass filler is *much* stronger, however I'd just cut out a bit of metal and head up to the local exhaust place and ask them to weld it in for you before I'd even dream of bogging it up.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  13. #113
    Fellow Frogger! PSvensson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Silverwater
    Posts
    165

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by nate
    Any tips on bogging up dents?

    Got a small one in the roof & the damned door lock that someone hammered in...!

    I assume i have to beat it out as much as possible, sand back the current paint & then fill it up & sand back...

    I'd like to put something behind the hole though, dont think bog will fill the gap by itself solidly...

    Tips?
    Any tricks with the bog application?

    G day Nate
    er.... nice wheels very cool!

    Fibre glass is an exellent way to cover holes not only that it can set stronger than steel, Here you will see how I covered two holes
    Just go to your local bunnings pick an up $25 fibre glass kit cheap as chips

    Dan
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Quick paint job anyone ????-dscf0009.jpg   Quick paint job anyone ????-dscf0028.jpg  
    1970 ID20 SUPER
    1971 DS21 IE non PALLAS,5 Spd
    1973 DS20 SUPER Singapore model but now an Aust resident(Rebuilding)
    Late 1994 Xantia VSX 5speed (for sale)
    1966 R10 round eye (sombody want to buy?)

  14. #114
    1000+ Posts
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,160

    Default

    Does the resin stick to the metal that well though?

    I wouldnt think it'd grip, then the panel would flex & the fibreglass would pop off...

    Metal is the proper/only way it seems...

  15. #115
    Fellow Frogger! PSvensson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Silverwater
    Posts
    165

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by nate
    Does the resin stick to the metal that well though?

    I wouldnt think it'd grip, then the panel would flex & the fibreglass would pop off...

    Metal is the proper/only way it seems...
    Fibre glass is flexible too, an theres complete cars made of it so dont be such a soft fuzzy wazzy try it you will suprize yourself

    Dan
    1970 ID20 SUPER
    1971 DS21 IE non PALLAS,5 Spd
    1973 DS20 SUPER Singapore model but now an Aust resident(Rebuilding)
    Late 1994 Xantia VSX 5speed (for sale)
    1966 R10 round eye (sombody want to buy?)

  16. #116
    Simon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    6,080

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by nate
    Does the resin stick to the metal that well though?

    I wouldnt think it'd grip, then the panel would flex & the fibreglass would pop off...

    Metal is the proper/only way it seems...
    The 5T2 is too nice a car to stuff around with. Take it somewhere where the hole can be restored properly, likely by welding and possibly shrinking the stretched metal.

    The door lock barrels are identical to Fuego Neiman barrels, so there should be no problem obtaining replacements. If cretins want to get in they'll get in, if not by the lock then by other means just to PYO even if it is alarmed to the teeth. But keep the car door as from the factory, then there will be no problems with bog shrinkage down the track, and no experts asking what happened to the lock barrel :-).

  17. #117
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aust.
    Posts
    16,067

    Default

    I spent about 1hour today on the CX.

    Drivers door has been wet rubbed back and I used the wire brush in the grinder to knock all the tape off the rear window surround in preparation for painting.

    Upto 26 hours now ... However I did find a very small dent at the very bottom of the drivers door (bugger ). Next time I'll have to make sure I crawl around on the ground and check the very base of the doors No big problem really, it's so small I should be able to fix it wihotu any damage to the rest of the wet rubbed panel.

    Just 3doors to go now before I can give the majority of the body some top coat and re-assemble

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  18. #118
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aust.
    Posts
    16,067

    Default

    Another 2hours tonight .... drivers side rear dear and quarter panel rubbed back.... Talk about slow & time consuming.

    28hours now You'd want to have a forgiving wife/partner

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  19. #119
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aust.
    Posts
    16,067

    Default

    She's looking good ....

    I took a quick photo at work this morning :




    I usually find lots of empty spaces around it, and no new dents (and people really give way to me on the roads ).

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Last edited by DoubleChevron; 18th March 2013 at 09:48 PM.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  20. #120
    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Don't remind me!
    Posts
    16,610

    Default

    Looks like you'd see on "Beaterz.com" with a huge wing photoshopped onto it.

    Don't worry about people not parking near you. Once it's painted, they'll be like flies at a barbie. Too many, too close, too often...

  21. #121
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aust.
    Posts
    16,067

    Default

    I've spent another 1.5hours sanding (gee's it's fun). Only one door to go now (remembering I'll do the new bootlid, bumpers, mirror, grill and bumpers seperatly later). Found a small crease in the bottom edge of the rear quater panel Next time I *must* get down on my hands 'n' knees and check the very bottoms of all the panels

    I painted the GS metalic, however could still see fine sanding scratches through the clear. I decided this was because when I use a flat colour and no clear, you can actually take out the really fine sanding marks with the top coat prior to cutting it. Though you can wet rub any orange peel out of the clear, the fine sanding scratches can still be seen in the base coat underneath. This time I will go over the whole car with some 800grit paper (I used 600grit to wet rub it). This way hopefully no fine sanding marks will be visible through the clear. 29.5hours now

    seeya
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  22. #122
    Fellow Frogger! chris's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Sydney/Marsfield
    Posts
    378

    Default

    Shane, would it be worth hitting the base colour with cutting paste before you clear it? Basically = very fine sanding, after all.

    Chris
    GS 1220 break. Beige cars go faster

  23. #123
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aust.
    Posts
    16,067

    Default

    Nah,

    you can't sand or touch the base coat .... That's why clear is required. Remember there is metalic fragments dispersed though it, and they will not like to be sanded.

    I'm sure the car will come up extremelly well, however it is still a paintjob done in a shed for about $350bux ...... So you can't expect perfection (eg: I'm sure I'll get at least a few specs of dust/grit land in the top coat when it's being painted...... However anything will be a dramatic improvement over what it was previously). I will line the shed with some cheap tarps, and damp the floor with a fine mist of water before the top coat is applied. This should keep any dust down to neglible levels (plus the car is sitting on 1/2meter high full length ramps, so there is little risk of blowing grit/dirt up off the concrete).

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    PS: It really annoys me that I've missed the couple of marks right at the bottom of the panels No doubt they will not be visible unless you lay on the ground and look down the side of the car..... But as I know they are there, that's all my eyes would see whenever I look at the car ie: I'm going to fix them before the top coat.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  24. #124
    CitroŽn, what else? smiffy1071's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Bristol/England!
    Posts
    1,487

    Default

    Of course shane, you know it's also obligatory to have bugs land on your car while the paint is still wet? this has happened EVERY time I've ever painted anything, and it really pisses me off!
    2005 C5 2.0 VTR Hdi 138, 1986 Kawasaki GPz 750G2

  25. #125
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aust.
    Posts
    16,067

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by smiffy1071
    Of course shane, you know it's also obligatory to have bugs land on your car while the paint is still wet? this has happened EVERY time I've ever painted anything, and it really pisses me off!
    Actually I don't find bugs such a problem, usually you spray grit/moisture on. The bugs would have to be caught in the spray as your applying it to get stuck in the paint. Acrylic is touch dry within a few minutes if not seconds. I think you must be using enamel.... It takes ..... ages to dry.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

Page 5 of 11 First 123456789 ... Last

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •