Quick paint job anyone ???? - Page 4
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  1. #76
    CitroŽn, what else? smiffy1071's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron
    Another 1.5hours last night .... 14.5hours now (SWMBO is starting to get really p!$$ed with me ).

    Shane L.
    Quote Originally Posted by smiffy1071
    If you have a partner, you will need thick skin too, as they will be nagging at you to stop wasting your money and time, and go buy a newer car!
    It's at that point that I reccomend a sudden spell of
    deafness helps
    See what I mean? john s

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  2. #77
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Removing the picnic shelf is quite easy ... Once you know how ...



    The four holes you see in the spoiler here... If you dig the muck out of them you will find the heads to 4 philips head screws.

    I found though they all unscrewed, I couldn't pull them out. Unfortunatly there just a long self tapper.



    This means they will still hold the spoiler in place.

    These screws combined with:



    The plastic clips shown at the top edge of the bootlid here, hold the main portion of the spoiler down.

    The spoiler is also retained by the bootlid hinges themselves:



    So you need to unbolt the boot and have it flopping around while you attempt to get the spoiler off.

    Once you unscrew all the screws and unbolt the boot lid, if your like me and couldn't extract the screws, you will need try pry the back edge of the spoiler up (gently so you don't smash the plastic retaining bits). In my case the screw popped out.



    This is what the screws are screwed into.

    I didn't notice at the time but I actually broke the tags that retain the front middle part of the spoiler



    This shouldn't be an issue when it comes to time to re-mount the spoiler. I'll just hold this front edge down with double sided tape.

    Now I had a bootlid the was retained by just the bootlid hinges.

    This is where I got stuck... It appears the plastic incapsulates the boot hinges. It looks like the plastic that encapsulates the boot hinge (holding the spoiler) is a plastic slide ... That you will destroy attempting to remove ... smashing the plastic.

    In desperation I finally decided I'd have to smash the plastic in order to remove the plastic clips. At this time I found it's actually 4 plastic clips that will come out without damage:



    The plastic base you can (carefully) pry out is this:



    The plastic boot brackets are retained by small rivets attached to the boot skin





    The plastic windows just slide outof there cuttouts once the spoiler is off.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Last edited by DoubleChevron; 18th March 2013 at 10:39 PM.
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  3. #78
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Alrighty,

    thursday night I fixed the roof ...



    There wasn't to many 'highs' that needed bashing down, so it only took a couple of trys to get this right.



    All done ... Roof just needs a hit with the D/A sander before I hit it with the oneshot.
    Last edited by DoubleChevron; 18th March 2013 at 10:41 PM.
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  4. #79
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Last night I managed an hour tinkering in the shed. Upto 15.5hours now.

    I removed the door handles and locks in readiness for spray the oneshot.

    Removing the door handles is quite easy:



    Remove the 3 bolts that retain the handle (allan key bolts)



    Just slide you hand around the back of the doortrims, releasing (but hopefully not breaking) the plastic clips.



    These two nuts retain the handle. Once you remove them the handle will just slide off (you can still use the doors just by poking a finger in the hole to activate the door lock).



    The keylock just has a 'U' shaped bit of metal retaining it. The metal wire down to activate the lock just unsnaps out of the plastic clip



    Look what I spotted when I removed the passenger front door lock & handle ....



    Some @sshole has tried to break into the car in the past by hammering at the lock (most likely by hammering a screwdriver into the lock). I had to straighten the metal as you can see.

    Also I found rust in the lowest corner of the back door ... a bloody rust bubble ... I thought this car was good for rust



    Luckily it appears to be rusty from the outside, I hit it with the wirebrush and there is nothing there that needs to be fixed. It appears a stonechip has allowed water behind the paint (phew ).



    Under the top door trims there is a type of glue (bugger it). It really tough, almost like a ceramic or epoxy type glue. It took 15minutes to scrape a tiny bit off even using a razor blade ... So I quickly gave up and hit it with the wire brush in the grinder, then feathered the edges with the D/A sander.



    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Last edited by DoubleChevron; 18th March 2013 at 10:43 PM.
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  5. #80
    CitroŽn, what else? smiffy1071's Avatar
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    The paint finish for the rear window trims, and the bootlid, is a satin finish. Not gloss, or matt. Hope that is available near you, john s
    2005 C5 2.0 VTR Hdi 138, 1986 Kawasaki GPz 750G2

  6. #81
    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    The hard glue you describe would almost certainly be a polyurethane. Gorilla Glue might be the closest you can get. Selleys' Urethane Bond used to be similar but they changed it...

    Satin and matt - from the Dulon mixing guide:

    Matt: 100 parts colour/clearcoat, 75 parts flattener
    Low Gloss: 100 parts colour/clearcoat, 60 parts flattener
    Semi Gloss: 100 parts colour/clearcoat, 40 parts flattener

    Or you can wing it and mix in unperfumed plain talc to your colour or clearcoat...

  7. #82
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Thanks Adam,

    yeah I thought the glue was some sort of glue (as opposed to tape).

    I managed to spend probably 4.0hours out there today. 19.5hours were upto now.



    Gee's I hate masking up ... it's so tedious, and I always miss somewhere and have overspray to clean off.



    I decided to wet rub some the guard ... My hands feel really great now ...



    The dulon oneshot is brilliant stuff ... I wouldn't have a hope in hell of getting anything even close to straight without it ...

    Remember the bonnet ....



    You just wetrub the oneshot with big circles and lots of water ...

    It'll turn like this ...



    Just keep on sanding in big circles ... eventually you'll get to just a few dots of guide coat



    Here's that repaired area taken with a 500watt light shining across it ...



    Yep that oneshot is amazing stuff

    Hopefully tomorrow I'll give the whole car (except bootlid & bumpers of course) a few heavy coats of oneshot so I can drive the car monday.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Last edited by DoubleChevron; 18th March 2013 at 10:45 PM.
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  8. #83
    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    A friend swears by the 3M panel bonding adhesive for reattach jobs like those strips, but I don't know what cartridges it comes in here. Probably one of those "systems" where it's not viable to buy (typical). If someone has the tailend of a Fusor cartride, that would be OK also for you.

    Get a roll of Cam-Poly plastic masking. You edge up the glass or panels in tape, slice off bulk plastic, and go to town. The roll opens to about 4m wide, and IIRC it's 100m long. You need to change it every stage of paint, or dried paint will blow off it with air pressure and settle into the wet coats. When you are making domestic amends by renovating the kitchen and bathroom, the leftover roll will come into play for excellent dust control.

    Do you have grey (automotive) Scotchbrite? It's great for a final whizz-over with water if you wet-sanded some areas then spot-primed too close nearby. Picks off dust and dags nicely.

    I never recommend this but... Heating thermosplastic paints in a hot water bath before spraying thins them out, gives more bite into the substrate, and promotes faster through drying. It's how a lot of old automotive parts were painted; warm the part, heat the paint and one or two coats of black nitro saw it good. I can tell you it works just great with modern acrylic primers too. So if you get a rainy spell...

  9. #84
    Moderator vivid's Avatar
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    Hey Shane, driveshaft fixed... I'll be up to give you a hand tomorrow.

    Looks like heaps of progress, and triumph... looks great.

    Maybe we can add some photos from the 16 in there tomorrow.

    I'll try and find your number to give you a call, otherwise ill PM you in the morning. Should be there around lunch.

    Ill have the trailer so I'll bring my uber-cheap compressor to test out some tools.

    Cheers,

    David.

  10. #85
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Hi Adam,

    thanks for the advice ... Without a booth I will not be painting in cold weather, I'd end up with moisture in it for sure. My grandfather said he used to have a guy that painted dashed and cars ... with a brush ... He would heat the pot of paint to the perfect temperature and paint it on ... Apparantly it was the best job you could possibly get, and it was impossible to tell it was applied with a brush

    I already have a roll of 3M tape here for the door strips (probably not enough). The local auto paint shop really is very good here, they only sell good quaility stuff. A lot of it is either Dulon (paints) and most of there cutters/polishes/tape/paper/etc... is 3M. I have had nothing but brilliant results using 3M products.

    About 5years ago I painted a very tired old ID19... Unfortunatly it didn't every look hugely great as the panel fit was a dogs breakfast that I never did get even close to right ... However here one of it's back guards



    That's Dulon Midnight black, clear that's then wetrubbed with 800 ... then 1200 grit paper. The bit you see has been hit with the buffing machine with 3M cutters, then 3M micro-fine cutters ... That's the shed roof you can see if the photo and the sky ... Bloody awesome paint ... pitty it's finish doesn't last for sh!t

    Look forward to hearing from you David.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Last edited by DoubleChevron; 18th March 2013 at 10:45 PM.
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  11. #86
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    I spent another 1.5hours today ... The whole car has oneshot on it now (except bootlid, bumpers and fuel flap of course). Upto 21hours now.



    Then ripped all the paper off and refitted the rear bumper and tailights so I can drive it to work tomorrow.



    This is how strong the aussie sun is... The black tape on the rear window surround .... It's lifted and peeled I'll have to remove it and paint these satin black too.



    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Last edited by DoubleChevron; 18th March 2013 at 10:46 PM.
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  12. #87
    1000+ Posts Pug_405_Mi16's Avatar
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    Hi Shane,

    This is a really great thread, we are about to get into the body work on the 204 and it's great to have this informatin...

    Thank you very much for taking the time to log it..


    Ben
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  13. #88
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Hi Ben

    yeah I'm trying to keep a log of time that goes into these things (I'm sure it'll put off the "We can paint it in a weekend" brigade)

    Another 1.5hours tonight, I've wet rubbed both front guards completely now.

    Those rear window surrounds ... That black tape maybe lifting ... But where it's not lifted, it's stuck down bloody tightly... I figured if the aussie sun caused it to lift ... So will a heat gun, so I heated it up to find once it's really hot it'll scrape off (that'll be some smelly fun for later).

    seeya,
    Shane L.
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  14. #89
    CitroŽn, what else? smiffy1071's Avatar
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    I don't think you can put that tape lifting just down to sun exposure, you remember the turbo car I scrapped, that had the tape lifting aswell.
    Luckily for me, my car has the tape intact, so that's one less job.
    Do you think there might be the chance of getting those rear spats to fit?
    Maybe the lower lip might fit if you grind it away a little? john s
    2005 C5 2.0 VTR Hdi 138, 1986 Kawasaki GPz 750G2

  15. #90
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Hmm,

    not sure about the rear spats. I'll have to check...

    seeya
    Shane L.
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  16. #91
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Hi Smiffy,

    I have tried to get the spats to fit ... The problem is the tyres fitted to it are very wide for the size, and have raised letters... The spats are quite soft plastic, I just cut the lip off roughly with the jigsaw then filed it level.

    The spats still touch slightly (even after removing the lip). I've left them in place. I'll drive the car for a couple of weeks and see how it goes with them in place. I'll paint them up if there ok.

    Another 1.5hours tonight to modify the spats and wet rub more of the bonnet. Upto 22.5hours now.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
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  17. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron
    Hi Smiffy,

    I have tried to get the spats to fit ... The problem is the tyres fitted to it are very wide for the size, and have raised letters... The spats are quite soft plastic, I just cut the lip off roughly with the jigsaw then filed it level.

    The spats still touch slightly (even after removing the lip). I've left them in place. I'll drive the car for a couple of weeks and see how it goes with them in place. I'll paint them up if there ok.

    Another 1.5hours tonight to modify the spats and wet rub more of the bonnet. Upto 22.5hours now.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    that is excellent job

  18. #93
    CitroŽn, what else? smiffy1071's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron
    Hi Smiffy,

    I have tried to get the spats to fit ... The problem is the tyres fitted to it are very wide for the size, and have raised letters... The spats are quite soft plastic, I just cut the lip off roughly with the jigsaw then filed it level.

    The spats still touch slightly (even after removing the lip). I've left them in place. I'll drive the car for a couple of weeks and see how it goes with them in place. I'll paint them up if there ok.

    Another 1.5hours tonight to modify the spats and wet rub more of the bonnet. Upto 22.5hours now.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    That is basically how Neil got them to fit on CGAT. Good to hear they might see light of day once again. john s
    2005 C5 2.0 VTR Hdi 138, 1986 Kawasaki GPz 750G2

  19. #94
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    The problem is I still need about 1mm clearance at the back edge... Not much but quite a lot in reality. What I'll try is cutting another slot in the bumper for the back lower edge of the spat to sit in. They do look a lot better with the spats in place. The front edge of the spat is screwed in, the back edge slots into the bumper. It will no harm the bumper in any way if I cut another slot for the spat.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
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  20. #95
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    This is a fantastic thread! Makes me want to go out and get myself a project!

    Look at all the views. Shane, there's a lot of folk looking over your shoulder while you're working. :-)
    Cheers,
    Michael

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  21. #96
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    Yeah Shane, you're going to have a lot to answer for. I for one, have started stripping out my old Guzzi Le Mans on the strength of it! There's a restorer lurking in all of us, just waiting to escape. Keep up the good work.
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  22. #97
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    A word to the wise with the spats; they were taken off my silver car due to the Delta mags that were fitted and for 99% of the time it was no hassle, then one day............I was going around the Bunya Mountains at a fairly heavy rate of knots and as I went into righthanders a bit hard, a strange noise seemed to come from the rear of the car. Lookingthrough the outside mirror I swore I could see blue smoke but as I couldn't smell it I just backed off a bit in case it may have been oil. However, when I arrived at my destination I admired my almost new Pirellis and at the same time went looking for the source of the smoke and discovered I now had smooth walled "no name" Pirellis.
    Due to the angle of lean when cornered hard, the wheel arches rolled far enough around to actually scrape the lettering, so I would guess you'll need more than 1mm tolerance.


    Alan S
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  23. #98
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alan S
    A word to the wise with the spats; they were taken off my silver car due to the Delta mags that were fitted and for 99% of the time it was no hassle, then one day............I was going around the Bunya Mountains at a fairly heavy rate of knots and as I went into righthanders a bit hard, a strange noise seemed to come from the rear of the car. Lookingthrough the outside mirror I swore I could see blue smoke but as I couldn't smell it I just backed off a bit in case it may have been oil. However, when I arrived at my destination I admired my almost new Pirellis and at the same time went looking for the source of the smoke and discovered I now had smooth walled "no name" Pirellis.
    Due to the angle of lean when cornered hard, the wheel arches rolled far enough around to actually scrape the lettering, so I would guess you'll need more than 1mm tolerance.


    Alan S
    Thanks Alan,

    In this case it's not such a huge issue ................................ 'Cos the spats are rather soft plastic (no rust here ).

    I think the worst that could happen is your tyre would wear the edge off the spat

    Seriously though, It's only the very back edge that's giving me problems, mounting the lower edge 1mm further out should give enough clearance (I hope ).

    seeya
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  24. #99
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ren25
    Yeah Shane, you're going to have a lot to answer for. I for one, have started stripping out my old Guzzi Le Mans on the strength of it! There's a restorer lurking in all of us, just waiting to escape. Keep up the good work.
    Hi Guys,

    we haven't even seen the finished product yet ................ We may well wish I'd never started 'cos it comes out looking worse than before

    seeya,
    Shane L.
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  25. #100
    CitroŽn, what else? smiffy1071's Avatar
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    Shane, why are you doubting yourself? you look like you are doing things in a methodical order, and paying attention to detail. you are being carefull to do prep work as well as you possibly can. i'm sure you will have a car to be very proud of when you have finished. I just wish it were warmer here so I could get the enthusiasm to start doing the same job to my car!
    john s
    2005 C5 2.0 VTR Hdi 138, 1986 Kawasaki GPz 750G2

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