Quick paint job anyone ???? - Page 2
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  1. #26
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    Default Beautiful Citroen

    G'day Double Chevron,
    Just writing to let you know how nice your car is even without the painting done.Stunning looking car! My French bodied 403 is due to be painted,so I will be keeping a keen eye on your progress.

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    Good luck with it all,
    Greg

  2. #27
    CitroŽn, what else? smiffy1071's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mork63ukCGAT
    I'm concerned his car has never been wet though so maybe it will lift

    seeya,
    Shane L.[/quote]

    been used all year round, driven to the NEC classic car show in November twice; the last time in torrential rain for 2 hours
    and tested over 160, leave you to guess kph or not? [/QUOTE]
    Now now, You're just showing off now! Nice to see you on here at long last! As you may gather, your car is known here already!
    john s
    2005 C5 2.0 VTR Hdi 138, 1986 Kawasaki GPz 750G2

  3. #28
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by smiffy1071
    I'm concerned his car has never been wet though so maybe it will lift

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    been used all year round, driven to the NEC classic car show in November twice; the last time in torrential rain for 2 hours
    and tested over 160, leave you to guess kph or not?
    Now now, You're just showing off now! Nice to see you on here at long last! As you may gather, your car is known here already!
    john s
    Yeah,

    there's nothing like a bit of friendly sh!t stiring to bring poeple out of the woodwork

    seeya,
    Shane L.
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  4. #29
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmrobins
    G'day Double Chevron,
    Just writing to let you know how nice your car is even without the painting done.Stunning looking car! My French bodied 403 is due to be painted,so I will be keeping a keen eye on your progress.

    Good luck with it all,
    Greg
    Thanks Greg,

    403 ute... It's good to see poeple keeping the oldies upto scratch. I'd love to get my hands on the 203 Ute that usually turns upto the French car day (where's the smiley for drooling).

    You'll have to post some piccies of the ute when she gets back from the paint shop.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    PS: My old CX looks nowhere near as tidy in the flesh as it does in piccies, the piccies certainy hide how sad the paint really is getting.
    'Cit' homepage:
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  5. #30
    CitroŽn, what else? smiffy1071's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron
    seeya,
    Shane L.
    PS: My old CX looks nowhere near as tidy in the flesh as it does in piccies, the piccies certainy hide how sad the paint really is getting.
    I have to admit, I was very surprised to see the close up condition of your car shane, You're right, it does look better from a distance. I think though that if you get the paint right now, it should last a very long time.
    Much the same as I want to do with my car. Of course, as I'm here in England, I have more reason to do it right, as we still haven't found a replacement for road salt in cold weather yet. It may take me longer to get the car on the road, but it will be worth it! While you have the car stripped down ....
    CHECK THE LOWER WINSCREEN FRAME mine is buggered, and I know where to get new sections, while stocks last
    john s
    2005 C5 2.0 VTR Hdi 138, 1986 Kawasaki GPz 750G2

  6. #31
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Hi Smiffy,

    There is no rust in the windscreen frame that I've found (I've had the screen out before). the only rust I've found in the whole car given the extensive work I've done on it is:

    --Bootlid (which was obvious when the car was purchased 10years ago). It's got no worse in the last 10years.
    --Bonnet looked a about 6 matchead sized dots under the paint. (it was like this when purchased and has got no worse in the last 10years)
    --Air cleaner of all the strange things ... I have need to fix that air cleaner
    --There is one small hole under each headlight ... I donno what the hell this means, or why they are there, but they were there when we purchased the car, and haven't got any worse in the last 10years.

    As for how bad the car looks up close. Unless you live in Australia, you couldn't understand how incredibly destructive the sun is here.

    Within months of the car hitting our shores the following happened:
    --rusting ceased, even the existing rust hasn't got any worse in the last 10years
    --The dash cracked
    --The roof lining dropped
    --The paint has very slowly deteriated to the point where the clear coat is lifting.

    The mid 90's cars out here have paint that looks the same as my car on the bonnet and roof... These cars are apparantly "Made for Australian Conditions", whatever that means

    The car will look as good as new with just a simple coat of paint

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
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    '78 GS1220 pallas
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  7. #32
    Fellow Frogger! blahblah's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron
    The stainless trims are painted mat black. Hopefully someone will have a suggestion on how to paint these so they stay black (and the paint doesn't just scratch off again).
    What I did to a white CX 2400 I had a long time (15 years) ago was to get rid of all the black paint off the rear quarter window surrounds, make up some wire brackets to support the all the stainless trim so they could be powder coated and get them coated with a black satin finish. I did all the sill trims and bumpers as well. It's not glossy, is bullet proof and when I saw the car a few years ago festering under a tree out in the bush, still looked pretty good - just a little faded. The car looked a million dollars when I had it in fresh 2 pack white with satin black bumpers and trim....

    Ahhh, young and foolish with lots of time and a high disposable income... :-)

    Cheers,

    Chris

  8. #33
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blahblah
    What I did to a white CX 2400 I had a long time (15 years) ago was to get rid of all the black paint off the rear quarter window surrounds, make up some wire brackets to support the all the stainless trim so they could be powder coated and get them coated with a black satin finish. I did all the sill trims and bumpers as well. It's not glossy, is bullet proof and when I saw the car a few years ago festering under a tree out in the bush, still looked pretty good - just a little faded. The car looked a million dollars when I had it in fresh 2 pack white with satin black bumpers and trim....

    Ahhh, young and foolish with lots of time and a high disposable income... :-)

    Cheers,

    Chris
    Hi Chris,

    this one has the 'blackout' treatment from the factory. The trim around the rear window willnot be a problem. It has badly peeling matt black tape over dull metal (so it's not shiny stainless == easy to paint). However for the upper door trim bit, they simply painted the stainless trim with black paint .... Which hasn't lasted very well... However the very shiny stainless undereath will be still perfect

    The only thing I haven't left original is the bumpers. They fade off and look terrible so have been painted.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
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    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


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  9. #34
    Fellow Frogger! MARK BIRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron
    Mark me down for another 1.5hours... Just under 3hours and I haven't even lifted a peice of sandpaper yet.

    I wire brushed the back with the angle grinder enlarging the holes quite a bit.



    This opened up the holes quite a bit.... Can you believe those little dots, about the size of match heads have turned into this ??? That's rust for you



    So I welded up the holes ...



    I'm scratching my head wondering how I'll treat the metal after it's fixed. You see inside the seam will be unpainted/untreated as anything I put there at this point will either burn off or catch fire I think I'll fill this area with oil/grease once the areas repaired.



    And finally some new metal for the back...

    Tomorrow ... Hopefully I'll find time to stich the new peice of metal in & bog it over and cover with some weatherproof paint ready for later prep & painting.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    There is available in a 500ml tin a Zinc rich primer that can be welded it can be applied with a brush . In Victoria I know Blackwoods stock it.

  10. #35
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Thanks Mark,

    I'll look into finding some of the primer. I will simply spray these areas with Lanoguard (lanolin) when the car is finished. This stuff appears to come out way above all other rust preventitives in classic car mags.

    I was at the local auto paint store and asked about painting the stainless bright trim. They didn't have any hammerite smooth (infact had never heard of it). They suggested using the only etch primer on there shelves that stated it could be used with stainless. I already have some flat black in the shed that I used on CX sills years back.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
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    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
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  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron
    Thanks Mark,

    I'll look into finding some of the primer. I will simply spray these areas with Lanoguard (lanolin) when the car is finished. This stuff appears to come out way above all other rust preventitives in classic car mags.

    I was at the local auto paint store and asked about painting the stainless bright trim. They didn't have any hammerite smooth (infact had never heard of it). They suggested using the only etch primer on there shelves that stated it could be used with stainless. I already have some flat black in the shed that I used on CX sills years back.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    People are rude when close up but our R8 was brushed in about 1976 and again in 1998. We used Solver signwriter's enamel (not acrylic but oil-based) and it cost $87 including one good quality brush. It was then the best quality (non-fade) red brushable paint on the market.

    Now at one level this is not good but let me tell you that from the other side of the road it looks excellent. And she's always been a working girl not a show pony. Net result is good protection, good appearance (5 metres plus of course) and enough money to do other things..... Like buying CX Citroens from an earlier contributor to this thread!

    I reckon it would not work on a CX though as the panels are so much larger, smoother and more curvaceous on a CX than an R8.

    Cheers
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
    Renault R8 1965
    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Renault Scenic 2006 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  12. #37
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Upto about 4.5hours now.

    I've gotta thank Alan S. He convinced I *really needed* one of these speedfiles.... Worth it's bloody weight in gold IMO. Would anyone believe 2minutes to get this repair *perfect*.... First time ever I've got bog sanded level the first time with no lows/highs/imperfections... Bloody stunned (though it was a fluke I guess there being no lows requiring another smear of filler).



    Wish I'd had one of these sanders year ago !!!

    Onto the strips I've been talking about. I removed the with my trusty old pocketknife



    These are retained differently to the earlier CX's. There is a rivet like protrusion from the door skin, this is much better than the hole drilled into the doorskin on earlier cars (that cause rust).



    The strips really don't look great ...



    On Neils (excellent I must add) advice I simply carefully wirebrushed them. I found the brush in the grinder best as it allows full control of the strip



    This worked amazingly well with no damage



    To paint the strips I just tap a couple of nails into one of the benches in the shed



    The primer has a huge amount of content for pressure pack paint and flowed really well onto the surface without leaving 'dots' or any crap behind. I really do recommend this primer (it'll etch to just about anything including brass and lead if the packaging is to be believed)



    Infact the strips came up so well, I think I'll redo them tomorrow before I topcoat them (don't ask ..... Ok, when I rolled up the air hose I knocked them all onto the concrete before the paint had set ).

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Last edited by DoubleChevron; 18th March 2013 at 09:29 PM.
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    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

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  13. #38
    CitroŽn, what else? smiffy1071's Avatar
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    Hammerite is indeed good stuff. It has a rust inhibiter mixed in with it, and I used it when we put the new front panel on my turbo.
    http://www.hammerite-automotive.com/
    john s
    2005 C5 2.0 VTR Hdi 138, 1986 Kawasaki GPz 750G2

  14. #39
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Hi Smiffy,

    we have always had hammerite out here ... onlly it's the sort that leaves a very textrured finished. If most poeple are like me, if they see hammerite on a car they run a mile .... You see it hides all sorts of major problems, rust, dents, etc...... A car with hammerite on it's sills you immediatly assume has badly bogged over rusty sills

    The paintshop I use has been in business for as long as I can recall, and *only* does autopaints ... nothing else. I figured if they not only didn't have it, but hadn't heard of the 'hammerite smooth' I probably wouldn't find it anywhere. (I'll probably see it at the local supermarket tomorroe now ).

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
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    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
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  15. #40
    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    A panelbeater friend once told me that there is a component in regular Hammerite, that interferes with 2K paints. Even the dust could pose problems, he opined, and wouldn't have the stuff anywhere near his workshop, or mechanically strip it.

    You could probably use anti silicone reducer but that's less common and a one-way street (once it's used in one coat you have to keep using it).

    Cheers, Adam.

  16. #41
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Thanks Adam,

    I've always avoided hammerite, and you have just given me another reason to avoid it.

    Ok another hour & half work (6.0hours now). I repaired the strips I'd dropped by wires brushing them back to bare metal and recoating.



    I could feel these dents even though I couldn't see them in the light Remembering if you can feel anything it'll always stand out like dogs balls with shiny new paint .......... I mark dents with a texta like this so I don't forget them. The crosses mean I think it's high, not low.



    Not sure about this, but there's something wrong there. I sanded all these marks back with the angle grinder fitted with it's paint stripping tool.

    A smear of filler over the areas ... This sander is bloody awesome ... All these dents took less than 1hour including re-painting the strips and waiting for the bog to set. The lowest series of dents/marks required a second smear of filler after tappy a couple of high bits of metal down.



    Finally a coat of primer to cover the bare steal.



    Hey Gerry this primer seems really good, it took some wire brushing back off the strips and applies really well. Possibly a quick coat of this on your 2cv panels would surfice (it is an etch primer). It also states it safe to leave panels in just this for upto 3months before top coating. Sounds ideal for both you and me.




    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Last edited by DoubleChevron; 18th March 2013 at 09:31 PM.
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    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

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  17. #42
    Fellow Frogger! Andy N's Avatar
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    Good on you Shane!
    It looks like you're really getting stuck in there now. You've inspired me to give my CX a good wash & polish and see how good the paint job is after being driven almost every day since I got it in varying conditions including Snow and blizzards to humid 38 degree scorching sun and torrential rain.
    There's a few stone chips and tar spots but it'll do for now until I can get a small amount of touch up paint. There is no rust evident only some bubbling smaller than a 5c piece on one of the rear doors and the 1/4 panel. The worst paint damage is the section behind the rear door on both sides (It sticks out so paint has abraded off but is not rusting into the metal yet).

    I saw 2 C5's and 2 Xsaras driving to Ballina and back this morning. One of the C5's drove into the Aldi carpark just as I was walking back to my car and they spotted the CX. They got out and said "I bet it's still going well "
    I said yes....Well it is going strong, finally after almost a year it is a reliable and safe vehicle to drive and I haven't spent a fortune to get it that way
    However, there is a pretty big list of things I'd like to do including getting the interior fan working again and perhaps fitting the airconditioning up. I'd love to reupholster the interior starting with the door trims but that will come later.
    Back to you Shane I almost forgot it was your thread for a minute!!
    Andy

  18. #43
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Another 1.5hours this evening ... were upto 7.5hours now.

    She'll pretty much ready for the bonnet and front guards to be hit one a few heavy coats of oneshot.

    There's not much to be done of the front guards... Just a few door dings from carparks



    Removing the badges without damage is quite easy if you use a cheap putty knife



    Just about ready for oneshot upfront



    Hopefully I'll get paint on it tomorrow.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Last edited by DoubleChevron; 18th March 2013 at 09:32 PM.
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    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

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  19. #44
    Local Tyrant gibgib's Avatar
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    Hi Shane,
    Did you apply any rust converter or oxidisation inhibitor before applying the primer?
    Are you taking the bonnet back to metal?

  20. #45
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Hi Gerry,

    No not back to bare metal, only to sound paint. This is quite easy as the paint is only about 4micron thick on the whole car (no evidence of anything other than original, very thin paint sofar).

    The bare metal I haven't really worried about deoxodadine on, as it's been painted within seconds of it being sanded with a harsh high speed sander (ie: the air speed file sander)... There is no bare metal on the car (remembering I need to still be able to drive it !!).

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
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    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  21. #46
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Hi Guys,

    another 2.0hours ... Upto 8hours now.

    I sanded any stone chip that was to metal back to bare metal with the D/A sander and used deoxidine on them (you can see the dots of rust get immediatly de-activated by this stuff ... Great product).

    I however need to remove the sill trims before I can put some paint back on the front ... I don't want to do this as:

    --I'll most likely break them
    --I get really frustrated and most likely break all the attachment points off
    --Big bloody scarey rust holes the *must* be fixed for the integrity of the car may be behind them



    The sill trims appear to be held on by these plastic lugs

    I was stunned to find I could undo all of them with my fingers .... Just by pressing hard on them...



    The couple that I couldn't get a grip on, I just used an allan keys like this to remove.

    The trims are quite flexible to my surprise and came straigt off.... One of the trims was FULL of crap & dirt...



    So the million dollar question ... Are the sills ok



    Bloody amazing ... The sill are pefect, not even surface rust, just shiny (very dirty) factory paint

    Back to work... Mask it up *really* well... Seriously you'll be surprised how far the paint will travel. It's far easier to spend an extra 15minutes here, than several hours (if not more) later trying to remove overspray (don't ask ).



    Finally the easy bit ... Several nice heavy coats of oneshot... Make sure you put several big runs in there (I always do ) Runs give you good exercise when it's time to run the spray putty back.



    Finally it's on with the guidecoat ... Only the little pressure pack of black paint ran out .... I only had yellow and red, not wanting to use red as it was a similar colour to the car ... I tried yellow. It was to bloody invisable, so I ended up with a nice multi-colour guide coat of black, yellow and red



    and remove the masking so I can drive to work tomorrow :

    I think that enough for today, I better do some work around the house before I get into trouble

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Last edited by DoubleChevron; 18th March 2013 at 09:34 PM.
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    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
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  22. #47
    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    You can use less primer by "stepping in" your spot repairs. This is a large splodge first, then a smaller spot, then the all over coats. Tinting your primer to match adds opacity to the topcoat or you can alternate tints (light and dark) to know how the sanding's going.

    Really work hard at avoiding excess (comparative) buildup in corners and crevices after sanding. As the acrylic paint cures, it develops massive tension in such areas due to the extra thickness. So, then it cracks imperceptibly, typically through the entire film back to metal and rust creeps in. Not so good.

    Waiting for the "before and after" shots of the hands when it gets to wetsanding At least they'll be soft as...

    Cheers, Adam.

  23. #48
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Hi Adam,

    yeah I feathered all edges with the D/A sander, I'll wetsand the whole car just prior to painting ... this will give the front huge curing time (planned it this way of course ).

    Don't worry she was given several coats of oneshot with a putty gun (not heavy blotchy coats with a normal gun). I'll be *very* surprised if it lifts and rusts like you suggest. I've painted 5cars in this way with Dulon Oneshot and have nothing but incredible results. The original car (my CX2400) is starting to crowsfeet slightly on the roof (sap & birdshit). That's over 10years old and it's NEVER been garaged, used everyday and never cleaned or polished .... ever ... (well it was kept nice & cleaned and polished for about 6months until @ssholes started crashing into it in carparks I lost incentive to keep it clean after that).

    Really the acrylic is an exceptionally good paint, it just doesn't last for sh!t unless you keep it clean, away from sap and birdsh!t.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  24. #49
    CitroŽn, what else? smiffy1071's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron
    --I'll most likely break them
    --I get really frustrated and most likely break all the attachment points off
    --Big bloody scarey rust holes the *must* be fixed for the integrity of the car may be behind them



    The sill trims appear to be held on by these plastic lugs

    I was stunned to find I could undo all of them with my fingers .... Just by pressing hard on them...



    The couple that I couldn't get a grip on, I just used an allan keys like this to remove.

    The trims are quite flexible to my surprise and came straigt off.... One of the trims was FULL of crap & dirt...

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Hi Shane, you may remember some time ago, I said to Archrival how easy they were to remove!!! The good news was if you broke one, I have 2 full sets spare, and as you will know, they weigh almost nothing so I could bring them with me if needed. Keep up the good work, it's coming together nicely!
    john s
    2005 C5 2.0 VTR Hdi 138, 1986 Kawasaki GPz 750G2

  25. #50
    Tadpole
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    Hi, it's looking good !

    If you're thinking to have it later repainted with 2k paint do a little research if the materials you're using now are compatible with 2k paint. If they aren't you're in for a bad surprise, bubbling, peeling, stuff that makes you want to cut your veins...

    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron
    yeah I haven't decided if I'll use the string trick, or pop the screen out. I've probably had 1/2dozen screen out of CX's, and broken 2 of them ... Not a good ... So I average breaking 1 in 3 .... If I had lots of patience I'd probably get them all out without breakage
    If the CX windscreen is held only by the rubber seal (like the GS one) you can use a funny trick: 5 cm long nails. From inside, you lift the seal and secure nail's head on the metal lip that's holding the seal. Then you move 3 cm and add another nail, and another, and another... until you've got the upper half of the windscreen surrounded by nails. Then it just pushes out with one hand. I've done this quite a few times on GS without problems.
    Before you push it out, glue the nails together with masking tape otherwise you'll have them all over the dashboard, seats,... once the windsreen comes out.

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