D LHM Bleed Gone Wrong?
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Default D LHM Bleed Gone Wrong?

    Hi Froggers

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    My uncle wants to take his D to Canberra this weekend to see the Ds.

    His D had run out of LHM due to a split in one of the rear boots. He got some new oil from Caltex in Wagga Wagga yesterday 6 litres in 1 litre bottles at $15-00 per litre. We fixed leak and refilled the LHM, had to take filter tube out of the resivoir tank invert it and fill with LHM. Got the thing to bleed OK.

    With the motor running the stop light comes on about every 17 seconds, about 3-4 seconds before the pump cycles. When the steering is turned the light comes on and steering goes stiff, when the brake is applied the light comes on. We have not driven it yet.

    Looking in the resivoir we see bubbles in the LHM. The hoses on inspection at 11 pm under lead light look OK. We did notice in the resivoir the metal pipe under the filler lid and closest to the filter leakes LHM from under the bend in it. It dribbles oil till about 3-4 seconds before the pump cycles, when the pump cycles it stops then after the cycle it starts to dribble again.

    Could this be where the system is getting air and could he drive the car 2.5 hours to Canberra and 2.5 hours home without damage?

    Help please

    Cooch

  2. #2
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Sounds like your sucking air from the feed side of the pump... Is there any cracks in the feed line from the pump to the reseviour. Are the hose clamps tight ???

    Is the bleed screw on the accumulator tight ??

    seeya,
    Shane L.
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  3. #3
    1000+ Posts arunine's Avatar
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    Have you released the pressure relief valve on the regulator half a turn?
    This will evacuate all the air out of the system. You have not mentioned whether the suspension is rising or not!
    If there is air getting in the system, it will be coming from a split in the pipe from the reservoir to the hydraulic pump.

  4. #4
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron
    Sounds like your sucking air from the feed side of the pump... Is there any cracks in the feed line from the pump to the reseviour. Are the hose clamps tight ???

    Is the bleed screw on the accumulator tight ??

    seeya,
    Shane L.

    No Shane there are as far as we could tell under the conditions of a lead light, but I thought the line looked a bit dodgey with rubber spacers under the hose clamps and the rubber hose mounts worn through chafing the feed line.

    Whats with the LHM leaking from the steel pipe inside the resivor?

    Night night...

    Cooch

  5. #5
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cooch Goodwin
    No Shane there are as far as we could tell under the conditions of a lead light, but I thought the line looked a bit dodgey with rubber spacers under the hose clamps and the rubber hose mounts worn through chafing the feed line.

    Whats with the LHM leaking from the steel pipe inside the resivor?

    Night night...

    Cooch
    All the returns on a DS clamp to a steel pipe at the base of the reseviour (unlike your CX where they clamp to the plastic insert at the top).

    One of the pipes in the reseviour should be gushing fluid whenever the pump is not cycling ... ie: all the fluid the pump is pumping is returning to the reseviour, not being added under pressure the the hydraulic system. If it's constantly gushing it sounds to me like the regulator bleed screw isn't quite closed.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
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    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron
    All the returns on a DS clamp to a steel pipe at the base of the reseviour (unlike your CX where they clamp to the plastic insert at the top).

    One of the pipes in the reseviour should be gushing fluid whenever the pump is not cycling ... ie: all the fluid the pump is pumping is returning to the reseviour, not being added under pressure the the hydraulic system. If it's constantly gushing it sounds to me like the regulator bleed screw isn't quite closed.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Thanks for your imput fellas. The car is going up and down after the priming of the pump. The bleed screw will be checked tonight when I drive out to Uncs place. We might even give the regulator another bleed. Everything does as it should except for the stop light comming on maybe a run around the paddock will help.

    The main Q is can he drive it to Canberraif we cant work out the peoblems.

    Cooch

    Dear Shane,

    Just got back from Uncs (in his 70s) and I think the front brakes need bleeding as when he took it for a drive they were not working, he ended up bumping into a gate post (no damage) but he said they were getting better.

    We think the bleed screws are the ones on the caliper with the plastic pipe on them. If so do we run another pipe from the bleeder to the LHM tank run the engine and apply the brakes to bleed? also could this be the cause of the stop light comming on?

    Cooch
    Last edited by Cooch Goodwin; 6th October 2005 at 08:56 PM.

  7. #7
    CitroŽn, what else? smiffy1071's Avatar
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    Cooch, has the car been sat for a long time doing nothing? The reason that the brakes might not be working, is perhaps the pistons in the brake caliper are stuck. I had this on my CX turbo after it had stood still for 18 months.
    There was hardly any braking effort.
    Take the front pads out, and push the pistons all the way back in to the calipers, as if you were changing the front pads. Put the pads back in, and operate the brakes in the normal way, and they will come back to life!
    As for the other problems, I've not experienced the light coming on before like that! john s
    2005 C5 2.0 VTR Hdi 138, 1986 Kawasaki GPz 750G2

  8. #8
    Real cars have hydraulics DoubleChevron's Avatar
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    It still sounds like you not getting pressure up. Did you have power steering ???

    Air in the brakes will cause a delay in braking ... ie: you push the button and nothing happens ...... panic so push harder, then depending on how much air is in them (the more air the longer the delay) they would suddenly kick in with full force and pelt you into the windscreen.

    Yes you bleed from one front caliper, use a hose and have someone hold the brake pedal down while you open the bleed screw. Don't put this LHM back into the tank. Discard it as it is in a dead end circuit and never circulates (don't be surprised if it's black moisture laden looking sh!t, depending on how long it's been since they were last bleed).

    Pity your not closer to me, we could both stick our heads under the bonnet and swear at it (does multiple people cussing at it in unison fix it quicker )... I'd pull the pump off mine and bring it over too, so we could exchange that and rule it out as a problem.

    Still sounds like it's managing to suck air from somewhere allowing the pump to lose it's bleed to me

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    'Cit' homepage:
    Citroen Workshop
    Proper cars--
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I
    '63 ID19 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90325
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas (last looked at ... about 15years ago)
    '78 GS1220 pallas
    '92 Range Rover Classic ... 5spd manual.

    Yay ... No Slugomatics


    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual

  9. #9
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron
    It still sounds like you not getting pressure up. Did you have power steering ???

    Air in the brakes will cause a delay in braking ... ie: you push the button and nothing happens ...... panic so push harder, then depending on how much air is in them (the more air the longer the delay) they would suddenly kick in with full force and pelt you into the windscreen.

    Yes you bleed from one front caliper, use a hose and have someone hold the brake pedal down while you open the bleed screw. Don't put this LHM back into the tank. Discard it as it is in a dead end circuit and never circulates (don't be surprised if it's black moisture laden looking sh!t, depending on how long it's been since they were last bleed).

    Pity your not closer to me, we could both stick our heads under the bonnet and swear at it (does multiple people cussing at it in unison fix it quicker )... I'd pull the pump off mine and bring it over too, so we could exchange that and rule it out as a problem.

    Still sounds like it's managing to suck air from somewhere allowing the pump to lose it's bleed to me

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Thanks Smiffy1071 & Shane

    I am going out to Uncs now and we will bleed the brakes and then go from there. We don't know when they were last bled. I don't want to go pulling callipers off just yet as having inboard brakes this would be a pain even for a Morris mini mechanic (sorry Pottsy)
    The car has been driven around but not often, I don't think the calipers are stuck.

    Thanks again for your input we will see how we go.

    Cooch

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